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The Frienstein, also called the Vorderes Raubschloss, is a rock formation, about 130 metres high, in
Saxon Switzerland Saxon Switzerland (german: Sächsische Schweiz) is a hilly climbing area and national park around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany. Together with the Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic it forms the Elbe Sands ...
. It lies on the northern slopes of the
Großer Winterberg Großer Winterberg is a mountain of Saxony, southeastern Germany. It is the second highest mountain of the Saxon Switzerland and is located on the border between Germany and the Czech Republic The Czech Republic, or simply Czechia, is ...
in the Affensteine rocks. On the rock there was once a
watchtower A watchtower or watch tower is a type of fortification used in many parts of the world. It differs from a regular tower in that its primary use is military and from a turret in that it is usually a freestanding structure. Its main purpose is to ...
of the Barony of Wildenstein. Today the Frienstein is a popular
climbing peak A climbing peak (german: Klettergipfel) may refer to a mountain or hill peak or a rock formation that has to be ascended by climbing. The term is common in Germany where it is specifically used of free-standing rock formations in the climbing region ...
.


History

Around 1410 a watchtower was erected on the Frienstein as a signal station by the Barony of Wildenstein that was owned by the family of
Berka of Dubá Berka of Dubá ( cs, Berka z Dubé) was a cadet branch of a Bohemian noble family of Lords of Dubá established by Hynek Berka of Dubá (1249–1306). It held estates in what is today the Czech Republic and Saxony in Germany throughout the Middl ...
. By this means it was possible for Frienstein to make contact with the surrounding watchtowers on the Winterstein, the Neuer Wildenstein and the ''Alter Wildenstein''. In 1451 the Frienstein together with the rest of the barony went to the
House of Wettin The House of Wettin () is a dynasty of German kings, prince-electors, dukes, and counts that once ruled territories in the present-day German states of Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt and Thuringia. The dynasty is one of the oldest in Europe, and its ori ...
and thus to the
Electorate of Saxony The Electorate of Saxony, also known as Electoral Saxony (German: or ), was a territory of the Holy Roman Empire from 1356–1806. It was centered around the cities of Dresden, Leipzig and Chemnitz. In the Golden Bull of 1356, Emperor Charles ...
. In the period that followed, robber knights lodged on the Frienstein, even in 1479 one of their workers conceded that ''"item near Frienstein is a trap..., where those who are caught are tormented"'' (''item beym Freynstein ist eyn loch ..., do man die gefangen eynfurt zu peynigen''). On the first cartographic record in Saxony, a map dating to 1592 by
Matthias Oeder Matthias is a name derived from the Greek Ματθαίος, in origin similar to Matthew. People Notable people named Matthias include the following: In religion: * Saint Matthias, chosen as an apostle in Acts 1:21–26 to replace Judas Iscariot * ...
, the rock is marked as ''Freystein''. On the present-day climbing route called the ''Alter Weg'' ("Old Way") one can still see the rebates and steps cut out of the rock that were once used to climb it. Even on the summit area there are traces of the watchtower in the shape of rebates for anchoring a wooden observation post. On the eastern side at the foot of the rock is the Ida Grotto (''Idagrotte''), a large crevice and bedding cave, that is nowadays a popular destination. It can only be reached over a narrow band of rock. In the grotto there are still traces of its medieval use as a living area. Because of its size and the fact that it is easy to get to, the Ida Grotto is a popular goal for ''Boofer''s, a Saxon term for hikers who sleep out in the open. However, in recent years, there have been repeated cases of hikers who have fallen and been seriously injured or killed as a result of being intoxicated with alcohol.''Gipfelbuch''.
Accessed on 24 Apr 2011.


Climbing peak

The Frienstein is a popular climbing peak in the
Saxon Switzerland Climbing Region Saxon Switzerland (german: Sächsische Schweiz) is the largest and one of the best-known climbing regions in Germany, located in the Free State of Saxony. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzer ...
, but its summit is not accessible to hikers and walkers. The first recreational ascent of the peak took place in 1873, although it had been conquered before with the help of artificial aids. The route known today as the ''Alter Weg'' is classified as
climbing grade In rock climbing, mountaineering, and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a grade to a climbing route or boulder problem, intended to describe concisely the difficulty and danger of climbing it. Different types of climbing (such as spo ...
III. There are also more difficult routes of up to grade XIb. Climbing history was written on the ''Königshangel'' when grade IX was reached for the first time in Saxon Switzerland. In 1965 it was successful climbed for the first time by
Fritz Eske Fritz originated as a German nickname for Friedrich, or Frederick (''Der Alte Fritz'', and ''Stary Fryc'' were common nicknames for King Frederick II of Prussia and Frederick III, German Emperor) as well as for similar names including Fridolin ...
, after several unsuccessful attempts by other noteworthy climbers.


References


Sources

*Peter Rölke (publ.): ''Wander- & Naturführer Sächsische Schweiz'', Vol. 1, Verlag Rölke, Dresden 1999,


External links


The Frienstein at the rock information pages of the German Alpine Club
{{in lang, de Rock formations of Saxon Switzerland Climbing areas of Germany Mountains of Saxon Switzerland