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Francis Kurkdjian (born 14 May 1969) is a French
perfumer A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a ''nose'' (French: ''nez'') due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist wh ...
and businessman of Armenian descent. He is best known for creating the men's fragrance Le Male for
Jean Paul Gaultier Jean Paul Gaultier (; born 24 April 1952) is a French haute couture and prêt-à-porter fashion designer. He is described as an "enfant terrible" of the fashion industry and is known for his unconventional designs with motifs including corsets, ...
in 1995, which has become one of the world's best-selling perfumes. He has since created a further 40 fragrances for major companies worldwide, including Elie Saab Le Parfum for
Elie Saab Elie Saab ( ar, إيلي صعب; born 4 July 1964) is a Lebanese fashion designer. His main workshop is in Lebanon, with additional workshops in Milan and Paris. He started his business in the early 1980s and specialized in bridal couture (ex ...
; My Burberry for Burberry; L'extase for Nina Ricci; and Narciso Rodriguez for Her for Narciso Rodriguez, Green Tea for Elizabeth Arden. Kurkdjian co-founded the fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Lebanese-French businessman and former
Ernst & Young Ernst & Young Global Limited, trade name EY, is a multinational professional services partnership headquartered in London, England. EY is one of the largest professional services networks in the world. Along with Deloitte, KPMG and Pricewaterh ...
partner Marc Chaya, which has become a niche brand in the fragrance industry. He was the winner of the Prix
François Coty François Coty (born Joseph Marie François Spoturno in Corsica ; 3 May 1874 – 25 July 1934) was a French perfumer, businessman, newspaper publisher, politician and patron of the arts. He was the founder of the Coty perfume company, today a ...
in 2001 for his lifetime achievement.


Early life

Francis Kurkdjian was born in Paris, France on 14 May 1969 to Armenian parents. Having been exposed to music and dancing at a young age, Francis Kurkdjian wanted to be a ballet dancer during his youth. However, he failed passing the competition to study at the Paris Opera School of Dance in 1983. Kurkdjian, who already had an interest in perfume making since he was thirteen years old, decided in 1985 to become a perfumer. In 1990, Kurkdjian entered the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l'Aromatique Alimentaire (
ISIPCA ISIPCA (''Institut supérieur international du parfum, de la cosmétique et de l'aromatique alimentaire'') is a French school for post-graduate studies in perfume, cosmetics products and food flavor formulation, with an apprenticeship period in ...
), a perfume school located in
Versailles The Palace of Versailles ( ; french: Château de Versailles ) is a former royal residence built by King Louis XIV located in Versailles, about west of Paris, France. The palace is owned by the French Republic and since 1995 has been managed, u ...
, France. He graduated from ISIPCA in 1993 and joined Quest International in Paris the same year. Kurkdjian continued his studies and obtained a master's degree from the Paris Institute of Luxury Marketing.


Career

In 1995, at the age of twenty-six, Kurkdjian created Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the world's best selling perfumes. This became Kurkdjian's first success at perfume making. This was followed by more than 40 creations for major fashion designers and houses. Besides selling his scents to major
fashion designer Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
s and houses in the beginning of his new career, Kurkdjian opened the pathways to a new vision, lending his talent to contemporary artists, re-creating
Marie Antoinette Marie Antoinette Josèphe Jeanne (; ; née Maria Antonia Josepha Johanna; 2 November 1755 – 16 October 1793) was the last queen of France before the French Revolution. She was born an archduchess of Austria, and was the penultimate child a ...
’s favorite perfume for
Palace of Versailles The Palace of Versailles ( ; french: Château de Versailles ) is a former royal residence built by King Louis XIV located in Versailles, Yvelines, Versailles, about west of Paris, France. The palace is owned by the French Republic and since 19 ...
, going back in time to the early 17th century and the sources of perfumery. Kurkdjian has also created gigantic olfactory installations in emblematic spaces, making people dream with his ephemeral and spectacular perfumed performances and was honoured the " Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres" by French Government in 2008. He was the first to open his bespoke fragrances atelier in 2001, going against the trend of perfume democratization. In 2006, Kurkdjian redeveloped the
Papier d'Arménie Armenian paper is a type of incense that has been produced for centuries. The paper is infused with essences, fragrances or essential oils in order to achieve a perfuming or cleansing effect. Examples of Armenian paper include Papier d'Armén ...
for the year of Armenia in France. Papier d'Arménie, a type of Armenian paper produced in France, is a room deodorizing product sold as booklets of twelve sheets of paper each cut into three pieces, which are coated with benzoin resin, the dried sap of styrax trees. He co-founded his own fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian with business partner Marc Chaya in 2009 near the Place Vendôme in Paris. The Maison Francis Kurkdjian is now a major player in the niche luxury fragrance segment with more than 300 locations worldwide. On October 2021,
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses a ...
appointed Kurkdjian as its new creative director of perfume.


Awards and recognition

Among Kurkdjian's awards include: * Winner of the François Coty perfumer (Oct 2001) * Award for the collective body of his creative work * Cosmetique Magazine's best perfumer of year 2008 * Named Chevalier of Arts and Letters (July 2008) * WWD Beauty Biz Award, Maison Francis Kurkdjian * Breakthrough product of the year Fine Fragrance (2009) * Cosmetique Magazine's best niche mixte perfume for Aqua Universalis (June 2010)


List of creations


Artistic collaborations

*Voir et être vu, Grand Palais Paris 2015/2016 - olfactive installation for the Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun exhibition *Milan world expo 2015, Stratus 2015 - olfactive installation for Pavillon Lille 3000 *L'Art du Jardin, Grand Palais Paris, Flora Tournicota, 2013 *Chateau de Versailles, Sillage De La Reine - Re-creation of the scent of Queen Marie Antoinette, 2006 *Olfactive installations in the gardens of Versailles: Bosquet de l'orangerie, 2006 - PréamBulles, Bosquet des 3 fontaines, Bosquet de la Rocaille, 2007 and 2008 *Grand Palais, NoctamBulles: olfactive installation during the 2010 Paris great museum evening *Shanghai expo 2010: Olfactive installation at the French Pavilion *La Luce Degli Innocenti: Olfactive installation, Florence 2011 *Sophie Calle: The smell of Money, 2003 *Paris Garnier Opera: Pas de deux, eau de parfum, 2004


References


External links


Maison Francis KurkdjianYouTubeMAXAROMA.COM
{{DEFAULTSORT:Kurkdjian, Francis 1969 births Living people French chief executives French people of Armenian descent French perfumers