Esteban Cortázar
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Esteban Cortázar (born May 17, 1984) is a
Colombian-American Colombian Americans ( es, Colomboestadounidenses), are Americans who trace their ancestry to Colombia. The word may refer to someone born in the United States of full or partial Colombian descent or to someone who has immigrated to the United St ...
fashion designer. He grew up in
Miami Miami ( ), officially the City of Miami, known as "the 305", "The Magic City", and "Gateway to the Americas", is a East Coast of the United States, coastal metropolis and the County seat, county seat of Miami-Dade County, Florida, Miami-Dade C ...
,
Florida Florida is a state located in the Southeastern region of the United States. Florida is bordered to the west by the Gulf of Mexico, to the northwest by Alabama, to the north by Georgia, to the east by the Bahamas and Atlantic Ocean, and to ...
and is one of the youngest designers to ever present at
New York Fashion Week New York Fashion Week (NYFW), held in February and September of each year, is a semi-annual series of events in Manhattan typically spanning 7–9 days when international fashion collections are shown to buyers, the press, and the general publ ...
.


Early life

Cortázar was born in Bogotá, Colombia, to Colombian painter Valentino Cortázar and former British jazz singer Dominique Vaughan. His grandmother's wardrobe and mother's stage outfits formed his early fashion vocabulary. His childhood straddled continents, lifestyles, and subcultures, which he cites as influences. Other influences include the
Ibiza Ibiza (natively and officially in ca, Eivissa, ) is a Spanish island in the Mediterranean Sea off the eastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula. It is from the city of Valencia. It is the third largest of the Balearic Islands, in Spain. Its l ...
scene of the 1970s (where his parents married) and Parisian disciplines. Cortázar stated that his art is an homage to his Colombian heritage. This is evident in the way he integrates Colombian symbols and iconography, such as the country's flag and emblems, into his designs. In interviews, he constantly references Colombia and its overseas communities, such as the one in Miami, Florida. At age 13, Esteban showed his fashion sketches to
Todd Oldham Todd Oldham (born Jacky Todd Oldham; October 22, 1961) is an American-born designer and president of L-7 Designs Inc and Todd Oldham Studios. His approach to fashion and style has become known to millions through his fashion lines, interior desig ...
who became his mentor. He met the designer while living in an apartment above Miami's News Café, a popular restaurant, and bar where Esteban witnessed Miami's bohemian renaissance.


Miami Influence

South Beach South Beach, also nicknamed colloquially as SoBe, is a neighborhood in Miami Beach, Florida. It is located east of Miami between Biscayne Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. The area encompasses Miami Beach south of Dade Boulevard. This area was the fi ...
during the 1990s, was Esteban's childhood playground. It featured an evolving fashion scene pioneered by designers
Gianni Versace Giovanni Maria "Gianni" Versace (; 2 December 1946 – 15 July 1997) was an Italian fashion designer, socialite and businessman. He was the founder of Versace, an international luxury-fashion house that produces accessories, fragrances, make-u ...
and
Todd Oldham Todd Oldham (born Jacky Todd Oldham; October 22, 1961) is an American-born designer and president of L-7 Designs Inc and Todd Oldham Studios. His approach to fashion and style has become known to millions through his fashion lines, interior desig ...
. The city's Latin cultural scene and kitsch trans-culture became the backdrop for iconic imagery, such as those by Bruce Weber, Peter Lindberg and Herb Ritz. Their collective vision of empowered, nonchalant supermodels stayed in Cortázar's mind as he came to view fashion as self-expression. In 1999, Esteban's early sketches caught the eye of Kal Ruttenstein,
Bloomingdale's Bloomingdale's Inc. is an American luxury department store chain; it was founded in New York City by Joseph B. Bloomingdale, Joseph B. and Lyman G. Bloomingdale in 1861. A third brother, Emanuel Watson Bloomingdale, was also involved in the bus ...
late fashion director. He later picked up Esteban's first collection. Other international retailers followed suit, and in 2006 Esteban became a member of the
Council of Fashion Designers of America The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. (CFDA), founded in 1962 by publicist Eleanor Lambert, and headquartered in Manhattan, is a not-for-profit trade association comprising a membership of over 450 American fashion and accessory des ...
. In 2004, Cortázar graduated from Miami's
Design and Architecture Senior High School Design and Architecture Senior High School (DASH) is a magnet school, magnet secondary school in the heart of the Miami Design District, Design District in Miami, Florida, United States. ''U.S. News & World Report'' ranked DASH as the 15th best p ...
, where he studied fashion design. From 2004 to 2008, he partnered up with Edit Meurrens as his business partner; she managed all financials for the company and was behind making New York Fashion Week at Bryant Park possible for the house of Cortazar for four years or eight seasons. At that time, Cortazar was the youngest designer to show in NY fashion week, which opened many doors and gave Cortazar more serious recognition in the fashion world. This made his move and transition to Paris possible.


Career

In 2007, Cortázar moved to Paris to run the House of Emanuel Ungaro. He familiarised himself with one of Europe's fashion icons. He has resided in Paris ever since. In 2012, Natalie Massanet approached Esteban to create a series of capsule collections for
Net-a-Porter YOOX Net-a-Porter Group S.p.A. is an Italian online fashion retailer created on 5 October 2015 after the merger between Yoox Group and Net-a-porter Group (NAP). Yoox was originally founded by Federico Marchetti (businessman), Federico Marchetti ...
. This process ushered in the relaunch of his eponymous brand. His work earned international acclaim and a loyal following for his personal take on femininity, modernity, and luxury. In 2014, Cortázar created a strategy to lessen the interval from runway to store without compromising craftsmanship. His approach was to confirm orders and begin production before his runway shows cutting the gap. The strategy started a conversation that is reshaping the industry. After showcasing at the
Paris Fashion Week Paris Fashion Week (french: Semaine de la mode de Paris) is a series of designer presentations held semiannually in Paris, France with spring/summer and autumn/winter events held each year. Dates are determined by the French Fashion Federation. ...
, Cortázar's style earned a cult following. That style is defined by slick, sculptural lines created with ease, grace, and flow. His collections often juxtapose two ideas: a body restricted and a body free. Poet shirting, circle hems, sliced leather, and equestrian hardware let women appear assured, bold and austere. He has been referred to by ''Vogue'' as "the most uninhibited designer showing in Paris." Cortázar's collections are stocked in over 30 stores worldwide, including
Barneys Barneys New York Inc. is an American luxury brand founded in New York City in 1923. It has introduced major designers including Armani, Azzedine Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, Christian Louboutin, and Ermenegildo Zegna to the US market. Barneys N ...
,
Bergdorf Goodman Bergdorf Goodman Inc. is a luxury department store based on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York. The company was founded in 1899 by Herman Bergdorf and was later owned and managed by Edwin Goodman, and later his son, Andrew Goodman. To ...
,
Lane Crawford Lane Crawford (HK) Limited () is a retail company founded in 1850 with speciality department stores selling luxury goods in Hong Kong and Mainland China. Its headquarters are in , Wong Chuk Hang. Lane Crawford is a part of The Lane Crawford J ...
, Browns,
The Webster The Webster (also known as The Webster Miami) is a luxury multi-brand fashion house operating ten physical boutiques in the U.S. and an online store. The multi-brand boutique sells designer brands ( Balmain, Celine, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Yves ...
, Net-a-Porter and Matches.


Colette

As part of the 2017 France-Colombia Year, Cortázar made a personal selection of Colombian brands and representative products for the
Colette Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette (; 28 January 1873 – 3 August 1954), known mononymously as Colette, was a French author and woman of letters. She was also a mime, actress, and journalist. Colette is best known in the English-speaking world for her ...
concept store. This event lasted two weeks and was the subject of a specific installation of shop windows at Colette. One represented a typical Colombian grocery store, while the second was dedicated to Cortázar's capsule collection. From July 10–22, 2017, France paid tribute to Colombia through cultural and artistic initiatives. Cortázar joined forces with the Parisian concept store Colette to honour his influences. The program featured: a water bar made in Colombia, which offered a special menu from Colombian chef Carlos Peñarredonda; beautiful books, including the limited edition of ''Botero d'Assouline'' which retraces the country's artistic culture; and clothing such as a hoodie imagined by Colombian
reggaetón Reggaeton (, ), also known as reggaetón and reguetón (), is a music style that originated in Panama during the late 1980s. It was later popularized in Puerto Rico. It has evolved from dancehall and has been influenced by American hip hop, ...
singer
J Balvin José Álvaro Osorio Balvín (born 7 May 1985), known professionally as J Balvin, is a Colombian singer and songwriter. He has been referred to as the " Prince of Reggaeton" (from Spanish: "Príncipe del Reggaetón"), and is one of the best-sell ...
. A set of collaborative pieces with local artists and designers emphasised Esteban's knowledge of Colombia. Cortázar used this event to promote his first sportswear collection, produced in Colombia by Seven Seven, comprising unisex pieces such as hoodies, t-shirts, socks, and screen-printed images of Colombian pop culture. A collaboration with Loopzu offered socks inspired by the
Barranquilla Carnival The Carnival of Barranquilla ('' es, Carnaval de Barranquilla'') is one of Colombia's most important folkloric celebrations, and one of the biggest carnivals in the world. The carnival has traditions that date back to the 19th century. Four days ...
and drawings by indigenous
Wayuu The Wayuu (also Wayu, Wayúu, Guajiro, Wahiro) are an Amerindian ethnic group of the Guajira Peninsula in northernmost part of Colombia and northwest Venezuela. The Wayuu language is part of the Maipuran (Arawak) language family. Geography ...
communities. Accessories such as Mercedes Salazar, Casa Chiqui, Mola Sasa, greenhouses of Magnetic Midnight, and original jewelry by Paula Mendoza. The collection is completed with common crafts from Artesanias de Colombia. In the shop, he included Colombian gastronomy, crafts, drawings, music, and books, to associate his country with the avant-garde mystique of Colette. It is a project conceptually aligned with Boutique Colette, located in the heart of Paris, in Rue Saint Honoré. Finally, tote bags featured Valentino Cortazar, t-shirts featured Luis Caballero and Pedro Ruiz, and technicolor chairs highlighted Ramon Laserna. Editors of the event included: Oficina del Doctor of the Casa Reigner Gallery, Kristina McLean, The Silueta, and Toluca.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Cortazar, Esteban 1984 births Living people Colombian fashion designers People from Bogotá People from Miami American people of Colombian descent