Ernesto Luigi Lomasti (29 October 1959 – 12 June 1979) was an Italian

mountaineer Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...

and alpino skier. He is regarded as one of the Italian pioneers of

climbing Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or any other part of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains (e.g. the eight thousanders), to small boulders. Climbing is done fo ...

as a sport. He died during training in the Valle d'Aosta,

Arnad Arnad ( frp, Arnà; Issime wae, Arnoal); is a town and ''comune'' in the Aosta Valley region of northwestern Italy. See also *Vallée d'Aoste Lard d'Arnad Vallée d’Aoste Lard d’Arnad (PDO) is a variety of '' lardo'' (a cured pork product ...

, in the local alpini training place called "la groviera" (the holey cheese), he fell apparently being struck by

lightning Lightning is a naturally occurring electrostatic discharge during which two electric charge, electrically charged regions, both in the atmosphere or with one on the land, ground, temporarily neutralize themselves, causing the instantaneous ...

. Ironically, he is also remembered for techniques on the Machaby pillar, in Arnaud, in May 1979. The pillar today is named Lomasti pillar.Arrampicare ad Arnad - Le origini
/ref>Lomasti Pillar
/ref> Bivacco Ernesto Lomasti4

Early life

Ernesto Lomasti was born in

Udine Udine ( , ; fur, Udin; la, Utinum) is a city and ''comune'' in north-eastern Italy, in the middle of the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, between the Adriatic Sea and the Alps (''Alpi Carniche''). Its population was 100,514 in 2012, 176,000 with t ...

but spent his early life in Pontebba and Tarvisio, where he attended the local school. During childhood, he contracted pertussis and his parents and uncle used to bring him up on high hills. On 29 June 1973, he left middle school and passed the exam, earning his father a climb on the

Jôf di Montasio The Jôf di Montasio (Italian, fur, Jôf dal Montâs, sl, Montaž, german: Montasch) is located in the Province of Udine, in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northeastern Italy. With its elevation of , it is the second highest mountain of ...

, Montasio along with a local mountain guide. Following an accident at age three, he severely damaged his hearing in his right ear. This

disability Disability is the experience of any condition that makes it more difficult for a person to do certain activities or have equitable access within a given society. Disabilities may be Cognitive disability, cognitive, Developmental disability, dev ...

would severely impair his climbing career because of having difficulties hearing

instructions. The problem was solved on 29 August 1977 when he decided to undergo surgery. He served under the Alpini corps attending the SMALP (alpini military school) until his sudden death.

Climbing achievements

Lomasti is remembered for a series of ascents of extraordinary difficultyThere's no turning back: Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
/ref> His life as a climber spanned for three years, primarily on

Julian Alps The Julian Alps ( sl, Julijske Alpe, it, Alpi Giulie, , ) are a mountain range of the Southern Limestone Alps that stretch from northeastern Italy to Slovenia, where they rise to 2,864 m at Mount Triglav, the highest peak in Slovenia. A large pa ...

from 1976 to 1979, with an impressive list of great gradients. He is remembered especially for Cima Grande della Scala,Cima Grande della Scala photos of first winter ascent
north anti-peak, on 3 September 1978. All his ascents were conquered using hard boots, as he apparently never had the chance to use light shoes.

Places

Despite his short career, there are several places that are named after Lomasti. * Lomasti Pillar, Machaby, Arnaud * Bivacco Lomasti, Creta di Aip, Alpi Carniche: A

Mountain hut A mountain hut is a building located high in the mountains, generally accessible only by foot, intended to provide food and shelter to mountaineers, climbers and hikers. Mountain huts are usually operated by an Alpine Club or some organization d ...

in Pontebba. * Lomasti-Mazzilis crevice, on Cima Grande della Scala Cima Grande della Scala, winter first ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis Crevice by Vuerich e Laurencig
/ref>

Quotes

''" ..per me Lomasti e' stato il piu' grande alpinista friulano di sempre...''
''" ..to me Lomasti has been the greatest friulan mountaineer ever...''
Ignazio Piussi

References

External links

SMALP, military alpini schoolIgnazio Piussi

Literature

* Gianni Nazzi e Mario Blasoni, ''Dizionario biografico friulano'', 1997, pag. 710. {{DEFAULTSORT:Lomasti, Ernesto 1959 births 1979 deaths Italian mountain climbers Mountaineering deaths