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Catherine Middleton wore a blue Issa dress during the photocall for her engagement to
Prince William of Wales William, Prince of Wales, (William Arthur Philip Louis; born 21 June 1982) is the heir apparent to the British throne. He is the elder son of King Charles III and his first wife Diana, Princess of Wales. Born in London, William was educat ...
on 16 November 2010, at
St. James's Palace St James's Palace is the most senior royal palace in London, the capital of the United Kingdom. The palace gives its name to the Court of St James's, which is the monarch's royal court, and is located in the City of Westminster in London. Alt ...
. The silk wrap dress matched her
engagement ring An engagement ring, also known as a betrothal ring, is a ring indicating that the person wearing it is engaged to be married, especially in Western cultures. A ring is presented as an engagement gift by a partner to their prospective spouse when ...
, and sold out soon after its debut. It contributed toward the start of "the Kate effect", Middleton's impact on the fashion industry, and sparked a trend in "little blue dresses".


Background

Brazilian-born London designer Daniella Issa Helayel had been producing form-fitting dresses under her eponymous Issa London label since 2001. In 2011, Issa was considered a "go-to" designer for fashionable London public figures, including Princess Beatrice,
Princess Eugenie Princess Eugenie, Mrs Jack Brooksbank ( ; Eugenie Victoria Helena; born 23 March 1990) is a member of the British royal family. She is the younger daughter of Prince Andrew, Duke of York, and Sarah, Duchess of York. She is a niece of King Ch ...
,
Pippa Middleton Philippa Charlotte Matthews (née Middleton; born 6 September 1983) is an English socialite, author and columnist. She is the younger sister of Catherine, Princess of Wales. Born in Reading and raised in Bucklebury, Berkshire, Middleton attende ...
and Keira Knightley. In the years leading up to her engagement, the Middleton sisters wore several of Issa's silk jersey dresses to public events and formal occasions. Middleton would often visit Helayel's studio, having pieces custom-fitted. The dress had no name, and was known by the style number DJ157. Helayel stated that it was "the original Issa dress", based on a gown that belonged to her grandmother. Middleton purchased her engagement dress from the Issa concession at Fenwick's
Bond Street Bond Street in the West End of London links Piccadilly in the south to Oxford Street in the north. Since the 18th century the street has housed many prestigious and upmarket fashion retailers. The southern section is Old Bond Street and the l ...
store.


Design and Middleton's debut

The engagement of Prince William and Middleton was announced in November 2010. On November 16, the couple posed for the press at
St. James's Palace St James's Palace is the most senior royal palace in London, the capital of the United Kingdom. The palace gives its name to the Court of St James's, which is the monarch's royal court, and is located in the City of Westminster in London. Alt ...
, where the piece was photographed. The dress is a sapphire, tight fitting, long-sleeved, low-cut silk wrap dress with a gathered front, described as "one of Issa's classic silk jersey dresses". The deep blue colour of the gown complemented the shade of the
engagement ring An engagement ring, also known as a betrothal ring, is a ring indicating that the person wearing it is engaged to be married, especially in Western cultures. A ring is presented as an engagement gift by a partner to their prospective spouse when ...
, which had previously belonged to
Diana, Princess of Wales Diana, Princess of Wales (born Diana Frances Spencer; 1 July 1961 – 31 August 1997) was a member of the British royal family. She was the first wife of King Charles III (then Prince of Wales) and mother of Princes William and Harry. Her ac ...
. Middleton paired the wrap dress with her engagement ring, a set of sapphire cabochon earrings and a necklace, nude tights, and black pumps. Her fiancé, Prince William, wore a complementary navy suit with a burgundy tie. The event was Middleton's formal introduction to the press, and regarded as her "transition" from commoner into royal life before her marriage. Helayel told ''
People A person (plural, : people) is a being that has certain capacities or attributes such as reason, morality, consciousness or self-consciousness, and being a part of a culturally established form of social relations such as kinship, ownership of pr ...
'' that she was elated that Middleton had decided to wear her dress for the engagement announcement, stating she was thrilled with the engagement news and I'm very happy that she has chosen to wear Issa today... e is a very pretty and lovely girl."'


Reception and influence

The dress, worth £385, sold out within hours of its debut in both the
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and the
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. ''
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'' wrote that the piece became an "overnight sensation" after photos of Middleton's engagement circulated worldwide. In
New York City New York, often called New York City or NYC, is the List of United States cities by population, most populous city in the United States. With a 2020 population of 8,804,190 distributed over , New York City is also the L ...
, where the dress retails for about $615, a buyer for an Issa retailer stated "People are going crazy for this dress... We have a wait list growing by the day." The high street "became awash with copies" of the gown. Middleton's look was credited with increasing attention on Issa's designs during London Fashion Week in 2011. A new
tartan Tartan ( gd, breacan ) is a patterned cloth consisting of criss-crossed, horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Sc ...
was created by McCalls Highlandwear, named "Royal Pride", inspired by the dress. Several publications speculated that Issa was a contender to design Middleton's wedding gown. The dress's popularity helped boost sales by 45% for the Issa London label. As a result of unprecedented demand, Issa went "into administration" after having difficulty coping with the amount of orders, before relaunching in 2015 with
House of Fraser House of Fraser (also operating as Frasers) is a British department store group with 44 locations across the United Kingdom, which is now part of Frasers Group. It was established in Glasgow, Scotland in 1849 as Arthur and Fraser. By 1891, it w ...
. The dress, named "The Kate Tie Wrap Dress", is now sold in various different colours, and retails for £99. '' Vanity Fair'' referred to the dress as "iconic" and "unforgettable". ''
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'' labelled it among the most iconic dresses of 2010. ''
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'' opined that the design underscored Middleton's "youthful elegance". ''The Guardian'' noted that Middleton had chosen a similar color to Diana's engagement outfit, with both dresses chosen to match the ring. After her engagement appearance, ''
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'' reported that "the princess-to-be is already well on her way to becoming a serious trendsetter." Middleton was reported to have replaced
Lady Gaga Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta ( ; born March 28, 1986), known professionally as Lady Gaga, is an American singer, songwriter, and actress. She is known for her image reinventions and musical versatility. Gaga began performing as a teenag ...
as the top online fashion search phrase. ''
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'' credited Middleton and Issa with an "aesthetic shift in British fashion" toward polished, "scrubbed-up", "attractive" trends, as opposed to previous
grunge Grunge (sometimes referred to as the Seattle sound) is an alternative rock genre and subculture that emerged during the in the American Pacific Northwest state of Washington, particularly in Seattle and nearby towns. Grunge fuses elements of p ...
fashion inspired by
Kate Moss Katherine Ann Moss (born 16 January 1974) is a British model. Arriving at the end of the "supermodel era", Moss rose to fame in the early 1990s as part of the heroin chic fashion trend. Her collaborations with Calvin Klein brought her to fas ...
. In 2019, ''The Telegraph'' wrote that the dress had been one of her "most memorable and significant fashion choices". The dress and its impact was described as the start of "the Kate effect", her reported impact on fashion and style.


"Little Blue Dress" trend

Middleton's blue dress sparked a trend in "little blue dresses," as a more colourful alternative to the famous little black dress. According to ''Glamour'' contributing style editor Tracey Lomrantz, "Women saw (Middleton's iridescent Issa dress) and thought, 'I want to look like her.'" The colour, with hues ranging "from iris to cerulean, navy to indigo and everything between", was spotted across the runways and retailers after the engagement announcement. Celebrities such as
Tia Carrere Althea Rae Duhinio Janairo (born January 2, 1967), known professionally as Tia Carrere (), is an American actress, singer and former model who got her first big break as a regular on the daytime soap opera '' General Hospital''. Carrere played C ...
, Kristen Bell, and Amy Smart were all spotted in shades of blue on the red carpet during the Spring 2011 season.


See also

* Wedding dress of Catherine Middleton *
List of individual dresses This is a list of individual dresses which are famous or otherwise notable. Dresses worn by celebrities * American Express Gold card dress of Lizzy Gardiner * Black Christian Siriano gown of Billy Porter * Black dress of Rita Hayworth * Black G ...


References

{{Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge 2010s fashion British royal attire
Wedding A wedding is a ceremony where two people are united in marriage. Wedding traditions and customs vary greatly between cultures, ethnic groups, religions, countries, and social classes. Most wedding ceremonies involve an exchange of marriage vo ...
Royal dresses 2010 in fashion 2010 in the United Kingdom 2010 clothing Wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton Blue dresses