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Emily Margaret Tinne (née McCulloch; 21 August 1886 – 12 March 1966) was a British collector of clothes. Raised by a Presbyterian missionary to India, Tinne attended
boarding school A boarding school is a school where pupils live within premises while being given formal instruction. The word "boarding" is used in the sense of "room and board", i.e. lodging and meals. As they have existed for many centuries, and now exten ...
in England. She trained and worked as a teacher before marrying a wealthy medical doctor in 1910, at which point she started buying clothes from department stores in
Bold Street Bold Street is a street in Liverpool, England. It is known for its cafés and for the Church of St Luke, Liverpool, Church of St Luke, which is situated at the top end. The bottom end leads into the area surrounding Clayton Square, which is par ...
, Liverpool, as well as having bespoke items made by a local dress maker. Her collection, which has been donated to the
National Museums Liverpool National Museums Liverpool, formerly National Museums and Galleries on Merseyside, comprises several museums and art galleries in and around Liverpool, England. All the museums and galleries in the group have free admission. The museum is a non ...
, contains over 700 items and is the largest from an individual owned by a museum in the United Kingdom. The clothes are of high quality, with many items still unworn in their original tissue paper and boxes, the price tags and delivery information still attached.


Biography

Tinne was born Emily Margaret McCulloch on 21 August 1886 near
Calcutta, India Kolkata (, or , ; also known as Calcutta , the official name until 2001) is the capital of the Indian state of West Bengal, on the eastern bank of the Hooghly River west of the border with Bangladesh. It is the primary business, commer ...
.Rushton (2006), p. 9. Her father, William McCulloch, was a
Presbyterian Presbyterianism is a part of the Reformed tradition within Protestantism that broke from the Roman Catholic Church in Scotland by John Knox, who was a priest at St. Giles Cathedral (Church of Scotland). Presbyterian churches derive their nam ...
missionaryRushton (2006), p. 28. and principal at a theological college in nearby
Chinsurah Hugli-Chuchura or Hooghly-Chinsurah is a city and a municipality of Hooghly district in the Indian States and territories of India, state of West Bengal. It lies on the bank of Hooghly River, 35 km north of Kolkata. It is located in the ...
, West Bengal. Her mother was a stern lady, and the family's lack of means and Presbyterian beliefs made for a frugal upbringing. Tinne had two brothers and a sister, and the four were sent to boarding school in 1893, when Tinne was about seven. During the school holidays, the children would live either with Tinne's maternal aunt in
Sevenoaks, Kent Sevenoaks is a town in Kent with a population of 29,506 situated south-east of London, England. Also classified as a civil parish, Sevenoaks is served by a commuter main line railway into London. Sevenoaks is from Charing Cross, the tradition ...
or grandparents in
Edinburgh Edinburgh ( ; gd, Dùn Èideann ) is the capital city of Scotland and one of its 32 Council areas of Scotland, council areas. Historically part of the county of Midlothian (interchangeably Edinburghshire before 1921), it is located in Lothian ...
. Her parents remained in India until the 1920s. Tinne studied as a
domestic science Home economics, also called domestic science or family and consumer sciences, is a subject concerning human development, personal and family finances, consumer issues, housing and interior design, nutrition and food preparation, as well as texti ...
teacher at
Edinburgh School of Cookery Queen Margaret University is a university, founded in 1875 and located in Edinburgh, Scotland. It is named after the Scottish Queen Saint Margaret. History The university was founded in 1875, as ''The Edinburgh School of Cookery and Domestic ...
, between 1904 and 1906, then moved to
Aigburth Aigburth () is a suburb of Liverpool, England. Located to the south of the city, it is bordered by Dingle, Garston, Mossley Hill, and Toxteth. Etymology The name Aigburth comes from Old Norse ''eik'' and ''berg'', meaning ''oak-tree hill''. T ...
, Liverpool to live with her maternal uncle, William Brogden Patterson. There she found a teaching role at Liverpool Training School of Cookery & Technical College of Domestic Service, where she remained for three years until 1909. During this period Tinne became engaged to Philip Frederick Tinne, a general practitioner whose family had a history as profitable sugar merchants and ship owners.Rushton (2006), p. 10. The couple married at the Welsh Presbyterian Church in
Toxteth Toxteth is an inner-city area of Liverpool in the historic county of Lancashire and the ceremonial county of Merseyside. Toxteth is located to the south of Liverpool city centre, bordered by Aigburth, Canning, Dingle, and Edge Hill. The area w ...
, Liverpool on 14 July 1910 and moved into a cottage in Aigburth.Rushton (2006), p. 13. They had six children, Elspeth, John, Bertha, Helen, Alexine and Philip, along with another who died in infancy,Rushton (2006), p. 15. and the growing family meant that they moved into a larger property in 1923 with an extension large enough for Philip's surgery at the rear of the house. Tinne's husband inherited £161,830 from his father in 1925, equivalent to about £6 million in 2006.Rushton (2006), p. 14. Tinne's sons were educated at
Eton College Eton College () is a public school in Eton, Berkshire, England. It was founded in 1440 by Henry VI under the name ''Kynge's College of Our Ladye of Eton besyde Windesore'',Nevill, p. 3 ff. intended as a sister institution to King's College, C ...
, whilst her daughters went to local schools. The family also had at least seven servants and owned the first car in Liverpool.


The Tinne collection of clothing

Tinne acquired a significant collection of clothes from shops in Bold Street, Liverpool shops and her local dressmaker.Rushton (2006), p. 17. The collection comprised both off-the-rail items and bespoke outfits. She also made some clothes, including special outfits for her children's dance shows. The collection is held by National Museums Liverpool, donated in three stages by Emily Tinne's daughter, Alexine. Due to the sheer volume of items, Alexine would put out two tea chests per week, which would be collected by the museum. The collection includes more than 700 items, though many other items could not be accepted due to the low quality.Rushton (2006), p. 27. The total collection included over 1000 items. The collection is the largest collection of an individual's clothing owned by a museum in the United Kingdom. The collection consists of items created between 1900 and 1940 and includes
day A day is the time period of a full rotation of the Earth with respect to the Sun. On average, this is 24 hours, 1440 minutes, or 86,400 seconds. In everyday life, the word "day" often refers to a solar day, which is the length between two so ...
and evening dresses, coats, underwear and stockings, swimwear, shoes, hats and gloves, baby and children's clothes, but is deficient in the shoes and handbags that would usually accompany a wearable ensemble. In addition, the collection includes Tinne's limited selection of jewellery, her servants' clothes and also some soft furnishings. To provide context, Tinne's collection of fashion magazines and sewing patterns are also included in the collection. Tinne bought multiple versions of the same item, often leaving them in the original tissue paper, with the original price labels and delivery dates. Many of the higher value items were never worn, possibly because Tinne did not attend functions which would allow them to be due to her husband's evening surgeries. Tinne's daughter, Alexine suggests that Emily may have purchased excess items or high value items that she did not want, to allow the shop assistants to gain commission. This view is backed up by the curator of the exhibition, Pauline Rushton, who describes Tinne's social work in organising widows' pensions or helping unmarried mothers. However, fashion author Linda Grant believes it was more likely that she just enjoyed shopping. The vast majority of the collection is dated between 1910 and 1940. Few items exist from before her marriage, when she started shopping "almost every afternoon", nor from after the outbreak of
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
, when she appears to have taken on a "make do and mend" attitude, which remained until her death. The size of the collection caused strain between Emily and her husband, along with storage difficulties. The clothes were stored in tea chests and could be found in the couple's en-suite bathroom, the servants' quarters, and were even used to block off part of the cellar to secure other valuables.Rushton (2006), p. 34.


References


Sources

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External links


Liverpool Museum biography of Emily Tinne
{{DEFAULTSORT:Tinne, Emily 1966 deaths 1886 births 1910s fashion 1920s fashion 1930s fashion British collectors People from Kolkata British schoolteachers People from Aigburth British people in colonial India