Elisabeth Treskow
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Elisabeth Treskow (1898–1992) was a German
goldsmith A goldsmith is a Metalworking, metalworker who specializes in working with gold and other precious metals. Nowadays they mainly specialize in jewelry-making but historically, goldsmiths have also made cutlery, silverware, platter (dishware), pl ...
and
jewellery designer Jewellery design is the art or profession of designing and creating jewellery. This is one of civilization's earliest forms of decoration, dating back at least 7,000 years to the oldest known human societies in Indus Valley Civilization, Mesop ...
, one of the earliest professional women in the field. After serving an apprenticeship under in
Munich Munich ( ; german: München ; bar, Minga ) is the capital and most populous city of the States of Germany, German state of Bavaria. With a population of 1,558,395 inhabitants as of 31 July 2020, it is the List of cities in Germany by popu ...
, in 1923 she worked with the bookbinder Frida Schoy in the artists' colony in the Margarethenhöhe district of
Essen Essen (; Latin: ''Assindia'') is the central and, after Dortmund, second-largest city of the Ruhr, the largest urban area in Germany. Its population of makes it the fourth-largest city of North Rhine-Westphalia after Cologne, Düsseldorf and D ...
. Around 1930, she rediscovered the Etruscan art of
granulation Granulation is the process of forming grains or granules from a powdery or solid substance, producing a granular material. It is applied in several technological processes in the chemical and pharmaceutical industries. Typically, granulation invo ...
and went on to win several first prizes in Germany as well as a Gold Medal at the 1937 Paris World Fair. Her work is in the collections of museums in Germany and abroad, including London's
Victoria & Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (often abbreviated as the V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.27 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and nam ...
and Cologne's
Museum für Angewandte Kunst A museum ( ; plural museums or, rarely, musea) is a building or institution that cares for and displays a collection of artifacts and other objects of artistic, cultural, historical, or scientific importance. Many public museums make these i ...
.


Early life and education

Born in
Bochum Bochum ( , also , ; wep, Baukem) is a city in North Rhine-Westphalia. With a population of 364,920 (2016), is the sixth largest city (after Cologne, Düsseldorf, Dortmund, Essen and Duisburg) of the most populous Germany, German federal state o ...
on 20 August 1898, Elisabeth Treskow was the daughter of the pharmacist Max Treskow and his wife Hedwig. After attending the classes given by
Karl Ernst Osthaus Karl Ernst Osthaus (15 April 1874, in Hagen – 25 March 1921, in Merano) was an important German patron of avant-garde art and architecture. Life Osthaus was born to a wealthy banking family, who also owned several businesses in the textile a ...
in
Hagen Hagen () is the Largest cities in Germany, 41st-largest List of cities and towns in Germany, city in Germany. The municipality is located in the States of Germany, state of North Rhine-Westphalia. It is located on the south eastern edge of the R ...
, she successfully completed silversmith courses in
Schwäbisch Gmünd Schwäbisch Gmünd (, until 1934: Gmünd; Swabian: ''Gmẽẽd'' or ''Gmend'') is a city in the eastern part of the German state of Baden-Württemberg. With a population of around 60,000, the city is the second largest in the Ostalb district a ...
(1917) and
Munich Munich ( ; german: München ; bar, Minga ) is the capital and most populous city of the States of Germany, German state of Bavaria. With a population of 1,558,395 inhabitants as of 31 July 2020, it is the List of cities in Germany by popu ...
(1918). After an apprenticeship under Karl Rothmüller of
Munich Munich ( ; german: München ; bar, Minga ) is the capital and most populous city of the States of Germany, German state of Bavaria. With a population of 1,558,395 inhabitants as of 31 July 2020, it is the List of cities in Germany by popu ...
, she qualified as a
journeyman A journeyman, journeywoman, or journeyperson is a worker, skilled in a given building trade or craft, who has successfully completed an official apprenticeship qualification. Journeymen are considered competent and authorized to work in that fie ...
in 1918. Returning to Bochum, she worked in a studio she established in her parents' home. In 1923, she joined the artists' colony in Margaretenhöhe where she worked with the bookbinder Frida Schoy. In 1927, she made a study trip to Paris where she was inspired by the medieval jewellery displayed in the Musée Cluny.


Career

When business suffered as a result of the economic crisis at the beginning of the 1930s, Treskow carefully examined the granulation technique used by the
Etruscans The Etruscan civilization () was developed by a people of Etruria in ancient Italy with a common language and culture who formed a federation of city-states. After conquering adjacent lands, its territory covered, at its greatest extent, rou ...
in the first millennium B.C. It consisted of applying tiny granules of gold to a metal base. Treskow mastered the technique, creating countless pieces of jewellery and publicizing her approach through lectures and publications. Such was the effect of her granulation, she was able to work without gemstones, creating diminutive friezes of hunting scenes, flowers or the
signs of the Zodiac The zodiac is a belt-shaped region of the sky that extends approximately 8° north or south (as measured in celestial latitude) of the ecliptic, the apparent path of the Sun across the celestial sphere over the course of the year. The pat ...
. Her creations ''Ehrenring'' (1933), ''Schmuckkreuz'' (1935) and ''Liebesring'' (1936) all won first prizes from the Gesellschaft für Goldschmiedekunst (Association for Goldsmiths' Art) in Berlin. In 1937, she was awarded the gold medal at the Paris World Fair while in 1938 she became the first woman to win the Ring of Honour from the Association for Goldsmiths' Art. After the end of the
Second World War World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
, Treskow was appointed head of the goldsmith class at the re-established Cologne Academy of Fine and Applied Arts where she remained until her retirement in 1964. She was promoted to the rank of professor in 1956, the first goldsmith in Germany to make the grade. Of particular note during the post-war period was her restoration of the
Shrine of the Three Kings The Shrine of the Three Kings (German ''Dreikönigsschrein'' or ''Der Dreikönigenschrein''), Tomb of the Three Kings, or Tomb of the Three Magi is a reliquary traditionally believed to contain the bones of the Biblical Magi, also known as the Th ...
in
Cologne Cathedral Cologne Cathedral (german: Kölner Dom, officially ', English: Cathedral Church of Saint Peter) is a Catholic cathedral in Cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia. It is the seat of the Archbishop of Cologne and of the administration of the Archdiocese of ...
. In later life, she created jewellery with antique stones and coins, finding inspiration in medieval Christianity. She went on to win the Bavarian State Prize (1963), the State Prize of North Rhine-Westphalia (1967) and the
Pro Ecclesia et Pontifice ''Pro Ecclesia et Pontifice'' ("For Church and Pope" in Latin) is a decoration of the Holy See. It is currently conferred for distinguished service to the Catholic Church by lay people and clergy. History The medal was established by Leo XIII o ...
awarded by Pope
Paul VI Pope Paul VI ( la, Paulus VI; it, Paolo VI; born Giovanni Battista Enrico Antonio Maria Montini, ; 26 September 18976 August 1978) was head of the Catholic Church and sovereign of the Vatican City, Vatican City State from 21 June 1963 to his ...
. In 1964, for her contributions to jewellery she was awarded the Grand Federal Service Cross. In 1971, Treskow moved into an old people's home in Brühl where she continued to design items to be made by her students. In 1991, the Cologne Museum of Applied Art presented a retrospective exhibition of her work. Elisabeth Treskow died in Brühl on 6 October 1992.


References


External links


Elisabeth Treskow – das Golden Girl No. 1
from Atelier ie with illustrations of Elisabeth Treskow's work (in German) {{DEFAULTSORT:Treskow, Elisabeth 1898 births 1992 deaths 20th-century German women artists People from Bochum Commanders Crosses of the Order of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany German designers German jewellery designers German jewellers German goldsmiths Women jewellers