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Fernside is a generous and luxurious five-bedroom white-weatherboard slate-roofed American Colonial Revival style house with an L-shape plan. It covers approximately 9,000 square feet or less than 1,000 square metres. There are three further bedrooms in the staff wing of the main house. Set by the
Tauherenikau River The Tauwharenīkau River, formerly known as the Tauherenikau River, is a river of the Wellington Region of New Zealand's North Island. It flows initially southeast from its sources on the slopes of Mount Hector before turning southwest to run do ...
on the plain below the junction of the Tararua and
Rimutaka The Remutaka Range (spelled Rimutaka Range before 2017) is the southernmost range of a mountain chain in the lower North Island of New Zealand. The chain continues north into the Tararua, then Ruahine Ranges, running parallel with the east c ...
ranges Fernside was built in 1924 to replace a house destroyed by fire. The current building is the work of the educated tastes of client, Ella, Mrs Charles Elgar and her 29-year-old architect,
Heathcote Helmore Heathcote George Helmore (1 May 1894 – 21 May 1965) was a notable New Zealand architect. Early life Helmore was born in Rangiora, New Zealand, in 1894, the eldest child of Christchurch-born solicitor and former national rugby representativ ...
. The house is near Featherston down a tree-lined mile-long (1.6 kilometres) drive from State Highway 2 and surrounded by 12 acres of expertly maintained and landscaped gardens. The gardens have mature features much more than a century old. The associated farmland which gave it the title homestead has been under separate ownership since 1945. Fernside is one of a small group of similar sized houses. This location let not-quite-absentee owners of remote coastal sheep stations live with easy access to the railway, main roads system and later, at the local
Tauherenikau Racecourse Tauherenikau Racecourse is a racecourse near, Featherston. It is owned by The Wairarapa Racing Club It is set in 110 acres of native trees. Wairarapa Racing Club The Wairarapa Racing Club was formed on 21 April 1864 and held meetings elsewhere ...
, an airfield. It has always been and remains a private residence. In the early 1990s before putting it up for sale an owner did offer a then rundown Fernside as an exclusive B & B lodge. Fernside was the name of the district which is now a part of Tauherenikau. Fernside railway station, accessed from the far side of the railway line, closed in 1975.


Concept

Though built of timber —in view of the
1942 Wairarapa earthquakes Two 1942 Wairarapa earthquakes shook the lower North Island of New Zealand; on 24 June and 2 August. They were large and shallow with epicentres close together east of Masterton in the Wairarapa region. The June earthquake was sometimes referr ...
, fortunately — it was conceived as a brick building and the working drawings were made on that assumption.Michael Fowler. ''Country Houses of New Zealand, North Island'' A.H. & A.W. Reed, Wellington, Auckland, Christchurch, Sydney, Melbourne. 1971


History

The first significant house on this farm was built on Underhill Road in the early 1870s for Henry Bunny. In 1876 it was bought by Richard John Barton (1846–1879) of White Rock StationHis White Rock partner and younger brother William Barton (1858–1938) built a house on the same road and called it Fareham. It has Heritage New Zealand List Entry Type —Historic Place Category 2. and his wife, Pihautea-born Catherine Carne Bidwill. Catherine's father brought the first flock of sheep to the Wairarapa in 1844
We understand that . . . ''Wairarapa Standard''
12 September 1876 Page 2 but, ill for a long time, he died in 1879. Mrs Barton remarried to G. T. F. Hutton of Ruatuna (Ruakokapatuna), Martinborough in 1881.


Mrs Elgar

Charles Elgar leased Fernside's 1,134 acres or 460 hectares from the Barton trustees about 1886. He married Ella Pharazyn in 1890, their only child was born there the following year, and he bought the property in 1888.The sometimes slightly adulatory tone of Te Papa items ''Fernside, the Elgar homestead'' and ''Biography of Ella Grace Elgar'' may have been a sign of response to pressure. Te Papa curators decided old European furnishings however fine did not fit with their project. Their unpublicised attempts to liquidate the Elgar bequest were reported in the daily press and subsequently blocked. Mrs Hutton kept the homestead with a 100-acre home farm and lived there until the autumn of 1901 and afterwards was known as Algies Farm.


Gardens

The Fernside/Longwood water race was begun in 1890 and Fernside lake is known to have existed by 1899. In the summer of 1908 -1909 there were extensive alterations to the Fernside headworks of their joint water-race scheme improving the water supply to livestock at Fernside and at Longwood. Seventeen men were employed. Shortly before Christmas 1913 members of The Wairarapa Automobile Association and friends were entertained by Martin Elgar and Mrs Izard, sister of Mrs Charles Elgar, at a garden party at Fernside. ''The Evening Post'' reported: “A large sum of money has been spent on the grounds" and how H. R. Bunny, in his speech thanking host and hostess on behalf of the club's committee, "remarked that a wilderness of fern and manuka had been transformed into a veritable paradise”


Fire

The Elgar's homestead National Library
Reference Number: Pan-0238-F
of 20 rooms and its contents were totally destroyed by fire in November 1923. Being heavily insured the Elgars appointed Heathcote Helmore to design a new one and promptly departed overseas to buy antiques and furnishings for their new home.


Heathcote Helmore

Heathcote Helmore Heathcote George Helmore (1 May 1894 – 21 May 1965) was a notable New Zealand architect. Early life Helmore was born in Rangiora, New Zealand, in 1894, the eldest child of Christchurch-born solicitor and former national rugby representativ ...
, one of a well-known Christchurch family, was
articled Apprenticeship is a system for training a new generation of practitioners of a trade or profession with on-the-job training and often some accompanying study (classroom work and reading). Apprenticeships can also enable practitioners to gain a ...
to architect Cecil Wood in 1912 aged 17. Following the 1914 outbreak of war he was posted to the position of A-d-c to the current Governor-General and he remained there four years. He is assumed to have returned to Wood to finish his articles after the
Armistice An armistice is a formal agreement of warring parties to stop fighting. It is not necessarily the end of a war, as it may constitute only a cessation of hostilities while an attempt is made to negotiate a lasting peace. It is derived from the ...
. He won admission to the Institute of Architects in April 1920. With a younger architect friend, Guy Cotterill, he set out to gather overseas experience. They travelled to England in July 1920 on the ship S.S. Ionic with the retiring Governor-General and when they docked in
Newport News Newport News () is an independent city in the U.S. state of Virginia. At the 2020 census, the population was 186,247. Located in the Hampton Roads region, it is the 5th most populous city in Virginia and 140th most populous city in the Uni ...
took up his offer to take them in
Liverpool Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough in Merseyside, England. With a population of in 2019, it is the 10th largest English district by population and its metropolitan area is the fifth largest in the United Kingdom, with a populat ...
's car to Yorktown where the young men took a deep interest in the colonial architecture of Virginia.UC Research Repository
Robert Jonathan Esau. ''Helmore and Cotterill, the formative years'', Thesis, University of Canterbury 1988
In London Helmore maintained social links with well-connected people including Mrs Elgar's son-in-law, an A.d.c. to the previous
Governor A governor is an administrative leader and head of a polity or political region, ranking under the head of state and in some cases, such as governors-general, as the head of state's official representative. Depending on the type of political ...
. Along with Cotterill Helmore worked for an architectural firm in London on a large private building and in laying out planned new
garden suburb The garden city movement was a 20th century urban planning movement promoting satellite communities surrounding the central city and separated with greenbelts. These Garden Cities would contain proportionate areas of residences, industry, and ...
s at Portsmouth and at Weybridge but the projects were cancelled and by September 1921 their work had ended. At the suggestion of the same son-in-law
Sir Edwin Lutyens Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens ( ; 29 March 1869 – 1 January 1944) was an English architect known for imaginatively adapting traditional architectural styles to the requirements of his era. He designed many English country houses, war memoria ...
invited Helmore to work, sometimes directly with him, on the detailing of the interior of
Queen Mary's Dolls' House Queen Mary's Dolls' House is a dollhouse built in the early 1920s, completed in 1924, for Queen Mary, the wife of King George V. It was designed by architect Sir Edwin Lutyens, with contributions from many notable artists and craftsmen of the ...
. Gertrude Jekyll provided plans for a garden for the Queen’s Dolls’ House. Her niece Barbara married Wellington-raised war hero Bernard Freyberg in 1922. Expatriates in London tend to flock together. Mrs Elgar’s son-in-law knew architect Edwin Lutyens well enough to ask for and get a job for his friend, Helmore. However there is no record of participation by Gertrude Jekyll in any schemes for Fernside’s gardens. He started with Lutyens at the beginning of October 1921. On at least one occasion Helmore exhibited some of his drawings to Queen Mary. He may have worked on minor buildings near the Viceroy's house in New Delhi. There is no record of when he left Lutyens but by February 1923 he was back in Christchurch and had begun his practice on his own account.


Their masterpiece

Mrs Elgar was gifted with a "discerning eye and superb taste"Campbell Moon. Fernside, ''Living with Antiques'', Mallinson Rendel, Wellington 1983 and she selected with care. With Heathcote Helmore and his "strong regard for historical precedent" Ella Elgar developed the design of the new house and its surroundings. Their creation is admired for being totally at ease and in harmony with itself. Once more the indefatigable Mrs Elgar collected particularly high-quality furniture and furnishings. Her careful documentation of purchases right down to domestic linen (monogrammed) and soft furnishings is in the possession of her family. Helmore was to maintain a keen interest in garden design throughout his career. Charles Elgar died suddenly in the luncheon interval of the Easter Saturday 1930 race meeting at the neighbouring
Tauherenikau Racecourse Tauherenikau Racecourse is a racecourse near, Featherston. It is owned by The Wairarapa Racing Club It is set in 110 acres of native trees. Wairarapa Racing Club The Wairarapa Racing Club was formed on 21 April 1864 and held meetings elsewhere ...
. He owned Clay Creek station near Martinborough and Awa Awaroa station in Kahutara. With his brother Martin, he competed with other woolgrowers to create the ideal breed for New Zealand conditions, their contribution was to
Border Leicester The Border Leicester is a British breed of sheep. It is a polled, long-wool sheep and is considered a dual-purpose breed as it is reared both for meat and for wool. The sheep are large but docile. They have been exported to other sheep-produci ...
s. An enthusiastic owner of thoroughbred racehorses his obituary claimed "His courage as a buyer of thoroughbred horses was never rewarded in proportion to the extent of his purchases, but from time to time he has had some useful horses carrying his colours." The second world war broke out in September 1939 and in February 1940 Mrs Elgar offered the use of the house to the Red Cross 'for the duration of the war' as a convalescent home for officers and men of
New Zealand Division The New Zealand Division was an infantry division of the New Zealand Expeditionary Force raised for service in the First World War. It was formed in Egypt in early 1916 when the New Zealand and Australian Division was renamed after the detachmen ...
. There had been newspaper reports of Japanese atrocities. In September 1942 at the request of the U.S. Government her paddocks between her house and the main road were taken for a Japanese Prisoner of War camp. 31 prisoners were killed there on 23 February 1943. She took a flat in central
Christchurch Christchurch ( ; mi, Ōtautahi) is the largest city in the South Island of New Zealand and the seat of the Canterbury Region. Christchurch lies on the South Island's east coast, just north of Banks Peninsula on Pegasus Bay. The Avon Rive ...
where she died in the spring of 1945. Fernside's farmland was given to the R. S. A., split into three blocks and sold by ballot to returned servicemen. A dispersal sale of unwanted house contents was held on-site in April 1946. Under her will the
Dominion Museum The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa is New Zealand's national museum and is located in Wellington. ''Te Papa Tongarewa'' translates literally to "container of treasures" or in full "container of treasured things and people that spring fr ...
now the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa received some of Fernside's furniture. In the Dominion Museum it was displayed in sets of period rooms designed by Heathcote Helmore for the purpose but at Te Papa some items are displayed individually from time to time.


U.S. Government

U.S. Forces won the May 1942 Battle of the Coral Sea and saved New Zealand from Japanese occupation. Postwar the U.S. Government wanted to replace the British and bring New Zealand closer within its ambit. New Zealand's first ambassador from the United States, Robert M. Scotten, appointed in late 1947, arranged his government's purchase of 38 Fitzherbert Terrace (built 1926 to the American Colonial Revival designs of the same firm, Helmore & Cotterill, demolished for the motorway) in Thorndon, Wellington in July 1948 as an official residence. Ambassador Scotten sat in on Cabinet meetings. To cultivate people in government and of wider community influence with considerable style, and well away from Wellington, Scotten and his wife also occupied 70 kilometres distant Fernside as their country residence. The
United States government The federal government of the United States (U.S. federal government or U.S. government) is the national government of the United States, a federal republic located primarily in North America, composed of 50 states, a city within a feder ...
later approved the purchase of Fernside from the Elgar trustees as of 31 March 1949. Visiting dignitaries included Helen Keller and
Pat Nixon Thelma Catherine "Pat" Nixon (''née'' Ryan; March 16, 1912 – June 22, 1993) was First Lady of the United States from 1969 to 1974 as the wife of President Richard Nixon. She also served as Second Lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961 wh ...
. The ANZUS Pact entered into force in April 1952. Subsequent ambassadors found Fernside too remote for their scaled down objectives and it was offered for sale in 1955. After some time it was bought by a Wellington professional man for family weekends. It has changed hands a number of times since then.


Twenty-first century

Fernside has remained in private ownership and occupation. The current owners bought it in 2007. They have restored the house and its contents to the fine 1920s style and high standards of Mrs Elgar and make a continuing major investment in its surrounding gardens which are sometimes opened to the public. Fernside's gardens before restoration featured in Peter Jackson's 2003 film ''The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King''.Lonely Planet
filming locations in the Wellington area


Notes


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Fernside Homestead Houses in New Zealand Gardens in New Zealand 1920s architecture in New Zealand Buildings and structures in the Wairarapa Featherston, New Zealand Georgian Revival architecture