Eduard Koblmueller
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Eduard "Edi" Koblmueller (German: Koblmüller) (10 April 1946 – 16 April 2015) was an Austrian mountaineer.


Life

Koblmueller was born in
Linz Linz ( , ; cs, Linec) is the capital of Upper Austria and third-largest city in Austria. In the north of the country, it is on the Danube south of the Czech border. In 2018, the population was 204,846. In 2009, it was a European Capital of ...
,
Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
. He studied at the
University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, Vienna The University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, Vienna, or simply BOKU (derived from its German name, Universität für Bodenkultur Wien, ), founded in 1872, is an education and research centre for renewable resources in Vienna, Austria. BOK ...
with a degree in forestry. In 1978 he founded with his wife Elisabeth a mountaineering school called ''Bergspechte'' and for that gave up his secure position with the government of
Upper Austria Upper Austria (german: Oberösterreich ; bar, Obaöstareich) is one of the nine states or of Austria. Its capital is Linz. Upper Austria borders Germany and the Czech Republic, as well as the other Austrian states of Lower Austria, Styria, a ...
(he worked in the department of agriculture and forestry and was responsible for environmental matters, at a time when no department for these existed.) In 1991 he was caught by an avalanche in the
Pyrenees The Pyrenees (; es, Pirineos ; french: Pyrénées ; ca, Pirineu ; eu, Pirinioak ; oc, Pirenèus ; an, Pirineus) is a mountain range straddling the border of France and Spain. It extends nearly from its union with the Cantabrian Mountains to C ...
and rescued by his team, but suffered knee injuries with long-term consequences. In 2005 he was completely buried by an avalanche in
Abruzzo Abruzzo (, , ; nap, label=Neapolitan language, Abruzzese Neapolitan, Abbrùzze , ''Abbrìzze'' or ''Abbrèzze'' ; nap, label=Sabino dialect, Aquilano, Abbrùzzu; #History, historically Abruzzi) is a Regions of Italy, region of Southern Italy wi ...
, but located and excavated by friends. In this incident, he suffered no injuries. In 1999, Koblmueller's older son Michael died at the age of 24 during an ascent of the
Diran Diran ( ur, دیرن) is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Nagar Valley and Bagrot Valley Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. This pyramid shaped mountain lies to the east of Rakaposhi (7,788m). Diran is the most dangerous mountain in Pakistan ...
(7,266-meter/23,839 ft) in an avalanche. In 2003, his wife died at age 56 during an exercise in an indoor climbing wall. Both Koblmueller and his wife were licensed mountain guides, as is their younger son Reinhard. Since 1968, Koblmueller participated in expeditions in the
Andes The Andes, Andes Mountains or Andean Mountains (; ) are the longest continental mountain range in the world, forming a continuous highland along the western edge of South America. The range is long, wide (widest between 18°S – 20°S ...
, in the
Hindu Kush The Hindu Kush is an mountain range in Central and South Asia to the west of the Himalayas. It stretches from central and western Afghanistan, Quote: "The Hindu Kush mountains run along the Afghan border with the North-West Frontier Provinc ...
, in the
Karakoram The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the ...
and the
Himalayas The Himalayas, or Himalaya (; ; ), is a mountain range in Asia, separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. The range has some of the planet's highest peaks, including the very highest, Mount Everest. Over 100 ...
, and achieved important first ascents. His most important accomplishment was the first ascent of the Southeast Face of
Cho Oyu __NOTOC__ Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the ''Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur ...
(8201 m/26,906 ft) in 1978 together with Alois Furtner Koblmueller was considered one of the most successful Austrian expedition mountaineer, and reached five
eight-thousanders The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no ...
. In the summer of 2014, he sold his shares of the Bergspechte company to a German firm operating in the same field, but remained active as an adviser. On 10 April 2015 Koblmueller led a group of nine participants in a ski expedition to Mount Kazbek (5047 m/16,516 ft) in the
Greater Caucasus The Greater Caucasus ( az, Böyük Qafqaz, Бөјүк Гафгаз, بيوک قافقاز; ka, დიდი კავკასიონი, ''Didi K’avk’asioni''; russian: Большой Кавказ, ''Bolshoy Kavkaz'', sometimes translat ...
. During one leg of the ascent the group encountered a snow storm. Seven members of the mostly Austrian group managed to reach a hut and were unharmed. As guide, Koblmueller aided a 59-year-old Austrian participant. Both were caught in a blizzard, and were found on the afternoon of 16 April 2015 at an altitude of 4700 m having died of hypothermia. Their bodies were retrieved by helicopter.Bergunglück Georgien: Überlebende zurück
ooe. ORF.at April 20, 2015, accessed May 2, 2015.


Mountaineering achievements (selected)

* K6 (7281 m/23,891 ft) 1970, First ascent with Gerhard Haberl, Christian von der Hecken and Gerd Pressl *
Chogolisa Chogolisa ( ur, from ''Chogo Ling Sa''; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain in the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is home to some of th ...
(7668 m/25,157 ft), 1975. First ascent of Chogolisa I. *
Cho Oyu __NOTOC__ Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the ''Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur ...
(8201 m/26,901 ft): 1978, First ascent of Southeast Face in
alpine style Alpine style is mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter and equipment as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked ...
*
Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat ( ur, ) (; ), known locally as Diamer () which means “king of the mountains”, is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth, its summit at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in ...
(8125 m/26,660 ft): 1983, Rupal Face with one partner *
Batura Sar __NOTOC__ Batura Sar ( ur, بتورا سر), also referred to as Batura I, is the 25th-highest mountain on Earth and the 10th-highest in Pakistan. It is the highest peak of the Batura Muztagh, which is the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram ...
(7785 m/25,574 ft), Karakoram: 1983, First ascent of South Face *
Diran Diran ( ur, دیرن) is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Nagar Valley and Bagrot Valley Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. This pyramid shaped mountain lies to the east of Rakaposhi (7,788m). Diran is the most dangerous mountain in Pakistan ...
(7266 m/23,893 ft), Karakoram: 1985, First ascent of North Pillar *
Rakaposhi Rakaposhi ( ur, ) is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range of the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan. Geography Rakaposhi is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range in the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan, about north of the ...
(7010 m/25,551 ft), Karakoram: 1985, First ascent of North Pillar * K2 (8611 m/28,251 ft): 1989, Attempt of a new route in the East Face, up to 7200 m/23,600 ft *
Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I () is ...
(8167 m/26,795 ft): 1996, Reached summit together with son Michael Koblmüller *
Muztagh Ata Muztagh Ata or Muztagata (, Музтағ Ата, literally "ice-mountain-father"; ; formerly known as Mount Tagharma or Taghalma and Wi-tagh) is the second highest (7546 metres) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plate ...
(7546 m/24,636 ft): 1997, Ski ascent *
Shishapangma Shishapangma, also called Gosainthān, is the 14th-highest mountain in the world, at above sea level. In 1964, it became the last of the 8,000-metre peaks to be climbed. This was due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions ...
(8013 m/26,335 ft): 1998 *
Broad Peak Broad Peak ( ur, ) is a mountain in the Karakoram on the border of Pakistan and China, the twelfth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It was first ascended in June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, an ...
(8047 m/26,414): 1999, Reached summit with son Reinhard Koblmüller *
Pik Lenin Lenin Peak or Ibn Sina (Avicenna) Peak ( ky, Ленин Чокусу, ''Lenin Choqusu'', لەنىن چوقۇسۇ; russian: Пик Ленина, ''Pik Lenina''; tg, қуллаи Ленин , ''qulla‘i Lenin/qullaji Lenin'', renamed қулла ...
(7134 m/23,406 ft),
Pamir Pamir may refer to: Geographical features * Pamir Mountains, a mountain range in Central Asia ** Pamir-Alay, a mountain system in Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, part of the Pamir Mountains *A pamir (valley) is a high plateau or valley surro ...
,
Kyrgyzstan Kyrgyzstan,, pronounced or the Kyrgyz Republic, is a landlocked country in Central Asia. Kyrgyzstan is bordered by Kazakhstan to the north, Uzbekistan to the west, Tajikistan to the south, and the People's Republic of China to the east. ...
: 2002


References


External links


www.bergsteigen.com - Biografie von Edi Koblmüller (13. April 2006)
{{DEFAULTSORT:Koblmueller, Eduard Austrian mountain climbers 1946 births 2015 deaths