Dolaucothi Estate
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The Dolaucothi Estate (''also'' Dolaucothy) is situated about north-west of the village of Caio up the picturesque Cothi Valley in the
community A community is a social unit (a group of living things) with commonality such as place, norms, religion, values, customs, or identity. Communities may share a sense of place situated in a given geographical area (e.g. a country, village, ...
of
Cynwyl Gaeo Cynwyl Gaeo is a parish and community located in rural Carmarthenshire, Wales, near the boundary with Ceredigion, in the upper Cothi valley about halfway between Lampeter and Llandovery. The population of the village at the United Kingdom Census ...
, in
Carmarthenshire Carmarthenshire ( cy, Sir Gaerfyrddin; or informally ') is a county in the south-west of Wales. The three largest towns are Llanelli, Carmarthen and Ammanford. Carmarthen is the county town and administrative centre. The county is known as ...
, Wales. Its name of ''Dolaucothi'' means ‘the meadows of the Cothi’. The
medieval In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the late 5th to the late 15th centuries, similar to the post-classical period of global history. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire ...
manor house A manor house was historically the main residence of the lord of the manor. The house formed the administrative centre of a manor in the European feudal system; within its great hall were held the lord's manorial courts, communal meals w ...
overlooking the fast-flowing
River Cothi The Afon Cothi ( en, River Cothy) is the largest tributary of the River Tywi in south Wales. It is noted for its trout and sea trout (sewin) fishing Fishing is the activity of trying to catch fish. Fish are often caught as wildlife from t ...
was rebuilt by the Johnes family and, in 1873, the estate encompassed . Dolaucothi House could be approached by two drives of considerable length, that to the east skirting the Roman gold mines ( Ogofau, near
Pumsaint Pumsaint is a village in Carmarthenshire, Wales, halfway between Llanwrda and Lampeter on the A482 in the valley of the Afon Cothi. It forms part of the extensive estate of Dolaucothi, which is owned by the National Trust. The name is Wel ...
), while that to the west was flanked by four lines of ancient oaks — the "very noble oaks" remarked upon by
George Borrow George Henry Borrow (5 July 1803 – 26 July 1881) was an English writer of novels and of travel based on personal experiences in Europe. His travels gave him a close affinity with the Romani people of Europe, who figure strongly in his work. Hi ...
(1803–1881) after walking along the avenue in 1854 for a glimpse of the house, charmed by the thought that "he had never seen a more pleasing locality".


Johnes family

Dolaucothi
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upon the Johnes family in the late 16th century through the marriage of James Johnes, Sheriff of Cardiganshire (1586) to Anne (1565–1600),
widow A widow (female) or widower (male) is a person whose spouse has died. Terminology The state of having lost one's spouse to death is termed ''widowhood''. An archaic term for a widow is "relict," literally "someone left over". This word can so ...
of James Lewis, of Llanbadarn Fawr; she was heiress to John ap Thomas, of Cryngae and Dolaucothi, brother of Sir Rhys ap Thomas, KG. James Johnes was the youngest son of Sir Thomas Johnes, MP (1492–1559), of Abermarlais, Carmarthenshire and inherited the Haroldston estate, Pembrokeshire through his wife, Dame Mary, widow of Sir Thomas Perrott, daughter and heiress of the Hon Sir James Berkeley. Sir Thomas Johnes was returned to
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as first
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, before being appointed in 1541 Sheriff of
Carmarthenshire Carmarthenshire ( cy, Sir Gaerfyrddin; or informally ') is a county in the south-west of Wales. The three largest towns are Llanelli, Carmarthen and Ammanford. Carmarthen is the county town and administrative centre. The county is known as ...
and of Cardiganshire in 1544. John Johnes (1768–1815), a former
army captain The army rank of captain (from the French ) is a commissioned officer rank historically corresponding to the command of a company of soldiers. The rank is also used by some air forces and marine forces. Today, a captain is typically either t ...
, purchased the estate in 1800 from his cousin and brother-in-law, Colonel Thomas Johnes, FRS, MP (1748–1816),
owner Ownership is the state or fact of legal possession and control over property, which may be any asset, tangible or intangible. Ownership can involve multiple rights, collectively referred to as title, which may be separated and held by different ...
of the great Hafod Estate and
Lord Lieutenant of Cardiganshire This is a list of people who served as Lord Lieutenant of Cardiganshire. After 1780, all Lord Lieutenants were also Custos Rotulorum of Cardiganshire. The office was abolished on 31 March 1974, and replaced by the Lord Lieutenant of Dyfed. Lord ...
.


Architecture

Dolaucothi House was rebuilt in the early 18th century with a five-bay, three-storey façade. Retaining some original features, in 1679, it had 6 hearths; described as ‘simple and dignified’, the house was rebuilt in cube-formation with 28 rooms. John Nash (1752–1835) was employed in 1792 to add the
porch A porch (from Old French ''porche'', from Latin ''porticus'' "colonnade", from ''porta'' "passage") is a room or gallery located in front of an entrance of a building. A porch is placed in front of the facade of a building it commands, and form ...
and two low
wings A wing is a type of fin that produces lift while moving through air or some other fluid. Accordingly, wings have streamlined cross-sections that are subject to aerodynamic forces and act as airfoils. A wing's aerodynamic efficiency is expre ...
, each with a window in a recessed arch. At that time, Nash had just finished working on the famous octagonal domed-library and square pavilions at
Hafod Hafod is a district of the city of Swansea, in South Wales, U.K., and lies just north of the city centre, within the Landore ward. Hafod is the home to the Hafod Copperworks, founded in 1810 and closed in 1980 which is now being developed i ...
for Colonel Thomas Johnes. Captain John Johnes' son, also named John (1800–1876), became a judge, who commissioned various refurbishments, including having the wings raised adding
bay window A bay window is a window space projecting outward from the main walls of a building and forming a bay in a room. Types Bay window is a generic term for all protruding window constructions, regardless of whether they are curved or angular, or ...
s in 1871. In its heyday Dolaucothi retained a domestic staff of nine with eighteen more working on the estate. Dolaucothi is noted as having
interiors ''Interiors'' is a 1978 American drama film written and directed by Woody Allen. It stars Kristin Griffith, Mary Beth Hurt, Richard Jordan, Diane Keaton, E. G. Marshall, Geraldine Page, Maureen Stapleton, and Sam Waterston. Allen's first ful ...
of much charm, displaying many
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s as well as the
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of the celebrated General Hills, VC.


Murder of Judge John Johnes

Judge Johnes was educated at
Oxford Oxford () is a city in England. It is the county town and only city of Oxfordshire. In 2020, its population was estimated at 151,584. It is north-west of London, south-east of Birmingham and north-east of Bristol. The city is home to the ...
before being called to the Bar. He was a good businessman and soon had put the whole estate on a sound financial basis. In 1822 he married Elizabeth Edwardes, daughter and heiress of
the Revd The Reverend is an honorific style most often placed before the names of Christian clergy and ministers. There are sometimes differences in the way the style is used in different countries and church traditions. ''The Reverend'' is correctly ...
John Edwardes (1765–1847), of
Gileston Gileston ( cy, Silstwn) is a small Welsh village near West Aberthaw in ''Bro Morgannwg'' (the Vale of Glamorgan) on the coast of South Wales. Location It is located some 15 miles along the coast from Cardiff and lies between Barry and Llantwit ...
in Glamorganshire, a younger branch of the family of
Edwardes Edwardes is a family name of English origins. It is a variant of Edwards, and means "son of Edward". People with this surname include: * Cheryl Edwardes (born 1950), Australian retired politician * David Edwardes ( fl. 1532), English anatom ...
, of
Rhyd-y-gors The name Rhyd-y-gors or Rhydygors has been associated with two historic sites near the market town of Carmarthen in Southwest Wales. The first was the Normans, Norman Rhyd-y-gors Castle and the other was Rhyd-y-gors Mansion, home of the Edwar ...
. They had two daughters, Charlotte Anne Maria (1825–1911) and Elizabeth (1834–1927). Judge Johnes became a widower when his wife died on 25 June 1848. Charlotte married Captain Charles Caesar Cookman, eldest son of Edward Rogers Cookman, Esq. of Monart House, County Wexford, but Captain Cookman died on 4 June 1859 leaving her a widow. In the autumn of 1864, John Johnes was briefly mentioned as a potential parliamentary candidate for Carmarthen Boroughs following the death of David Morris. However,
William Morris William Morris (24 March 1834 – 3 October 1896) was a British textile designer, poet, artist, novelist, architectural conservationist, printer, translator and socialist activist associated with the British Arts and Crafts Movement. He ...
, JP, a cousin of the late member was
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unopposed. In the summer of 1876, Dolaucothi made national news when Judge John Johnes was murdered in his library on 19 August by Henry Tremble, his Irish butler of 17 years' service, "who killed him with his master's shotgun". Tremble also severely wounded Mrs Charlotte Cookman. Tremble was most upset that the judge had refused his application for the tenancy of the ''Dolaucothi Arms'', a local
public house A pub (short for public house) is a kind of drinking establishment which is licensed to serve alcoholic drinks for consumption on the premises. The term ''public house'' first appeared in the United Kingdom in late 17th century, and wa ...
, previously promised to him. Judge Johnes' reasons for turning down his application to become landlord concerned Tremble's wife's disposition for drinking excessively. Tremble then headed into the village of Caio with the intention of murdering John Davies, the
inn-keeper A pub (short for public house) is a kind of drinking establishment which is licensed to serve alcoholic drinks for consumption on the premises. The term ''public house'' first appeared in the United Kingdom in late 17th century, and was ...
he felt had deprived him of the position he sought. Davies was away in
Carmarthen Carmarthen (, RP: ; cy, Caerfyrddin , "Merlin's fort" or "Sea-town fort") is the county town of Carmarthenshire and a community in Wales, lying on the River Towy. north of its estuary in Carmarthen Bay. The population was 14,185 in 2011, ...
that day so, after threatening a local police constable, he returned home to ‘Myrtle Cottage’ where he shot himself. Henry Tremble, 36, entered domestic service at Dolaucothi upon the death of Captain Cookman in 1859. Tremble (whose collateral descendants include the Northern Ireland politician
David Trimble William David Trimble, Baron Trimble, (15 October 1944 – 25 July 2022) was a British politician who was the first First Minister of Northern Ireland from 1998 to 2002, and leader of the Ulster Unionist Party (UUP) from 1995 to 2005. He wa ...
) had been his
valet A valet or varlet is a male servant who serves as personal attendant to his employer. In the Middle Ages and Ancien Régime, valet de chambre was a role for junior courtiers and specialists such as artists in a royal court, but the term "valet ...
in Ireland, and he had accompanied him to Wales upon his marriage to Charlotte. At Dolaucothi he worked his way up to the position of butler but was known to possess a somewhat violent disposition. John Johnes would have dismissed him on several occasions previously had he not been dissuaded from doing so by Charlotte, who felt that this would betray the memory of her late husband who had commended the care of his favourite servant to her. On 26 August 1876 Judge Johnes' remains were interred in the family vault at Saint Cynwyl's, where Canon Phillips, subsequently
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of St. David's, and the Revd Charles Chidlow,
vicar A vicar (; Latin: '' vicarius'') is a representative, deputy or substitute; anyone acting "in the person of" or agent for a superior (compare "vicarious" in the sense of "at second hand"). Linguistically, ''vicar'' is cognate with the English pre ...
of Caio, officiated. Charlotte resumed the name of Johnes under her father's Will of 1876 and lived out her days at Dolaucothi, inherited jointly with her sister, Lady Hills-Johnes.


Sir James Hills-Johnes

Lieutenant-General Sir James Hills (1833–1919),
Victoria Cross The Victoria Cross (VC) is the highest and most prestigious award of the British honours system. It is awarded for valour "in the presence of the enemy" to members of the British Armed Forces and may be awarded posthumously. It was previously ...
recipient,
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of the Indian Mutiny and former Military Governor of
Kabul Kabul (; ps, , ; , ) is the capital and largest city of Afghanistan. Located in the eastern half of the country, it is also a municipality, forming part of the Kabul Province; it is administratively divided into 22 municipal districts. Acco ...
married the younger sister and co-heiress, Elizabeth Johnes, in 1882. Accordingly, Sir James assumed, by
Royal Licence Royal may refer to: People * Royal (name), a list of people with either the surname or given name * A member of a royal family Places United States * Royal, Arkansas, an unincorporated community * Royal, Illinois, a village * Royal, Iowa, a c ...
, the additional surname and coat of arms of Johnes, becoming Lieutenant-General Sir James Hills-Johnes, VC, GCB. He then took over the running of the Dolaucothi estate and played an important part in
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, becoming honorary colonel of the 4th Battalion of the
Welch Regiment The Welch Regiment (or "The Welch", an archaic spelling of "Welsh") was an infantry regiment of the line of the British Army in existence from 1881 until 1969. The regiment was created in 1881 under the Childers Reforms by the amalgamation of ...
, JP and DL, and later
High Sheriff of Carmarthenshire This is a list of High Sheriffs of Carmarthenshire. Carmarthenshire was originally created by the Statute of Rhuddlan in 1284. It became an administrative county in 1889 with a county council following the Local Government Act 1888. Under the Loc ...
in 1886. Granted the honorary freedom of
Carmarthen Carmarthen (, RP: ; cy, Caerfyrddin , "Merlin's fort" or "Sea-town fort") is the county town of Carmarthenshire and a community in Wales, lying on the River Towy. north of its estuary in Carmarthen Bay. The population was 14,185 in 2011, ...
in 1910, General Hills-Johnes also served as treasurer of University College Wales (1898–1919), receiving the honorary degree of
LL.D. Legum Doctor (Latin: “teacher of the laws”) (LL.D.) or, in English, Doctor of Laws, is a doctorate-level academic degree in law or an honorary degree, depending on the jurisdiction. The double “L” in the abbreviation refers to the early ...
in 1917. Lady Hills-Johnes had in her early days been a
ward Ward may refer to: Division or unit * Hospital ward, a hospital division, floor, or room set aside for a particular class or group of patients, for example the psychiatric ward * Prison ward, a division of a penal institution such as a pris ...
of
Lady Llanover Augusta Hall, Baroness Llanover (21 March 1802 – 17 January 1896), born Augusta Waddington, was a Welsh heiress, best known as a patron of the Welsh arts. Early life She was born on 21 March 1802, near Abergavenny, the youngest daughter of ...
moving in fashionable and literary circles, her "life on one occasion" being saved by the great Lord Lytton. Her correspondence with the famous
Bishop of St Davids The Bishop of St Davids is the ordinary of the Church in Wales Diocese of St Davids. The succession of bishops stretches back to Saint David who in the 6th century established his seat in what is today the city of St Davids in Pembrokeshire, f ...
, Dr Connop Thirlwall, was published in 1881 under the title ‘Letters to a Friend’. Dolaucothi House was always full of guests, among them many distinguished men and women, not least Field Marshal the Earl Roberts (1832–1914) and
Sir Henry Morton Stanley Sir Henry Morton Stanley (born John Rowlands; 28 January 1841 – 10 May 1904) was a Welsh Americans, Welsh-American explorer, journalist, soldier, colonial administrator, author and politician who was famous for his exploration of Central Afr ...
(1841–1904), explorer of Africa. Lord Roberts and Sir James began their lifelong friendship as cadets at Addiscombe Military Seminary. Roberts joined the
Bengal Horse Artillery The Bengal Army was the army of the Bengal Presidency, one of the three presidencies of British India within the British Empire. The presidency armies, like the presidencies themselves, belonged to the East India Company (EIC) until the Govern ...
in 1851, and Sir James, 11 months his junior, was commissioned into the same
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in 1853. Both experienced the dangers and perils of the Indian Mutiny, were present at the
Siege of Delhi The siege of Delhi was one of the decisive conflicts of the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The rebellion against the authority of the East India Company was widespread through much of Northern India, but essentially it was sparked by the mass up ...
and took part in the operations at the
Relief of Lucknow The siege of Lucknow was the prolonged defence of the British The Residency, Lucknow, Residency within the city of Lucknow from rebel Sepoy, sepoys (Indian soldiers in the East India Company, British East India Company's Army) during the Indian ...
. Both were dangerously wounded at the Siege of Delhi and before the Mutiny ended, they both were awarded the
Victoria Cross The Victoria Cross (VC) is the highest and most prestigious award of the British honours system. It is awarded for valour "in the presence of the enemy" to members of the British Armed Forces and may be awarded posthumously. It was previously ...
. A decade later they served together again in the Abyssinian and Kabul campaigns and in 1881 the pair received thanks from both
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. Charlotte Johnes died in 1911, Sir James in 1919 and Lady Johnes-Hill at the grand age of 95 in 1927. Upon their deaths the Dolaucothi estate passed through a female line to the Lloyds who then added the additional surname of Johnes. The house was requisitioned by the Ministry of Supply during
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
when it fell into serious disrepair with floors collapsing and lead being removed from the roof. Dolaucothi was presented to the
National Trust The National Trust, formally the National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, is a charity and membership organisation for heritage conservation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. In Scotland, there is a separate and ...
in 1941 subject to the life interest of its last owner, Major Herbert Lloyd-Johnes following whose death, in 1956, the property and lordship of the manor became wholly owned by the National Trust. Major Lloyd-Johnes' daughter and heiress, Elizabeth, is married to Geoffrey Stevens, kinsman of the
Dukes of Newcastle Duke of Newcastle upon Tyne was a title that was created three times, once in the Peerage of England and twice in the Peerage of Great Britain. The first grant of the title was made in 1665 to William Cavendish, 1st Duke of Newcastle, Willi ...
, then
Earls of Lincoln Earl of Lincoln is a title that has been created eight times in the Peerage of England, most recently in 1572. The title was borne by the Dukes of Newcastle-under-Lyne from 1768 to 1988, until the dukedom became extinct. Earls of Lincoln, first ...
. The only remnant of the mansion, demolished in 1952, is a former service block, now an estate farmhouse.


St Cynwyl's Church

The
Church Church may refer to: Religion * Church (building), a building for Christian religious activities * Church (congregation), a local congregation of a Christian denomination * Church service, a formalized period of Christian communal worship * C ...
of Saint Cynwyl, in Caio village centre, is surrounded by the former lands of the substantial Dolaucothi estate, where the Johnes family, patrons of the
advowson Advowson () or patronage is the right in English law of a patron (avowee) to present to the diocesan bishop (or in some cases the ordinary if not the same person) a nominee for appointment to a vacant ecclesiastical benefice or church living ...
, worshipped. The family vault in the north aisle dates back to the 18th century. There is also a memorial to Lieutenant-General Sir James Hills-Johnes, VC, at St Cynwyl's
Lychgate A lychgate, also spelled lichgate, lycugate, lyke-gate or as two separate words lych gate, (from Old English ''lic'', corpse), also ''wych gate'', is a gateway covered with a roof found at the entrance to a traditional English or English-style ch ...
.


Ogofau gold mine

The Roman gold mines at Dolaucothi, later known as the Ogofau Gold Mine also belonged to this large estate. Attempts to extract further gold from the mines were undertaken in 1797 for John Johnes and again in the 1850s and in 1871 for his son Judge John Johnes when crushing machinery became available. Larger efforts to extract gold were undertaken from 1888 to 1892 by the South Wales Gold Mining Co, in 1905–1910, and in 1933–38, when Britain’s abandonment of the
gold standard A gold standard is a monetary system in which the standard economic unit of account is based on a fixed quantity of gold. The gold standard was the basis for the international monetary system from the 1870s to the early 1920s, and from the l ...
led to a much greater interest in
native gold Gold is a chemical element with the symbol Au (from la, aurum) and atomic number 79. This makes it one of the higher atomic number elements that occur naturally. It is a bright, slightly orange-yellow, dense, soft, malleable, and ductile met ...
. Later attempts to extract gold in commercially viable quantities have been unsuccessful, although interest naturally remains in the area's deposits.www.nationaltrust.org.uk
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See also

* Colonel Thomas Johnes *
Destruction of country houses in 20th-century Britain The destruction of country houses in 20th-century Britain was the result of a change in social conditions: many country houses of varying architectural merit were demolished by their owners. Collectively termed by several authors "the lost hous ...


References


Sources

*


External links


''Carmarthenshire War Memorial''


''Dyfed, Wales'' {{DEFAULTSORT:Dolaucothi History of Carmarthenshire Archaeological sites in Carmarthenshire Buildings and structures in Carmarthenshire Welsh country houses destroyed in the 20th century Former country houses in Wales Demolished buildings and structures in Wales Buildings and structures demolished in 1952