Durham ( , locally
), is a
cathedral city
Cathedral city is a city status in the United Kingdom.
Cathedral city may also refer to:
* Cathedral City, California, a city in Southern California, United States
* Cathedral City Cheddar, a brand of Cheddar cheese
* Cathedral City High Scho ...
and
civil parish
In England, a civil parish is a type of administrative parish used for local government. It is a territorial designation which is the lowest tier of local government below districts and counties, or their combined form, the unitary authorit ...
on the
River Wear,
County Durham, England. It is an administrative centre of the
County Durham District
County Durham is a unitary authority in the ceremonial county of Durham, North East England. It covers the former non-metropolitan county and its seven districts: Durham (city), Easington, Sedgefield (borough), Teesdale, Wear Valley, Derwentsi ...
, which is a successor to the historic
County Palatine of Durham (which is different to both the ceremonial county and district of County Durham).
The settlement was founded over the final resting place of
St Cuthbert.
Durham Cathedral was a centre of pilgrimage in medieval England while the
Durham Castle
Durham Castle is a Norman castle in the city of Durham, England, which has been occupied since 1837 by University College, Durham after its previous role as the residence of the Bishops of Durham. Designated since 1986 as a cultural World Heri ...
has been the home of
Durham University
, mottoeng = Her foundations are upon the holy hills (Psalm 87:1)
, established = (university status)
, type = Public
, academic_staff = 1,830 (2020)
, administrative_staff = 2,640 (2018/19)
, chancellor = Sir Thomas Allen
, vice_chan ...
since 1832. Both built in 11th-century, the buildings were designated as a
World Heritage Site
A World Heritage Site is a landmark or area with legal protection by an international convention administered by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). World Heritage Sites are designated by UNESCO for h ...
by UNESCO in 1986.
HM Prison Durham
HM Prison Durham is a Georgian era reception Category B men's prison, located in the Elvet area of Durham in County Durham, England. Built in 1819, the prison continues to be operated by His Majesty's Prison Service. Women prisoners were mov ...
is also located close to the city centre and was built in 1816.
Name
The name "Durham" comes from the
Brythonic element , signifying a
hill fort
A hillfort is a type of earthwork used as a fortified refuge or defended settlement, located to exploit a rise in elevation for defensive advantage. They are typically European and of the Bronze Age or Iron Age. Some were used in the post-Roma ...
and related to
-ton, and the
Old Norse
Old Norse, Old Nordic, or Old Scandinavian, is a stage of development of North Germanic languages, North Germanic dialects before their final divergence into separate Nordic languages. Old Norse was spoken by inhabitants of Scandinavia and t ...
, which translates to island.
[Surtees, R. (1816) ''History and Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham'' (Classical County Histories)] The Lord
Bishop of Durham
The Bishop of Durham is the Anglican bishop responsible for the Diocese of Durham in the Province of York. The diocese is one of the oldest in England and its bishop is a member of the House of Lords. Paul Butler has been the Bishop of Durham ...
takes a
Latin
Latin (, or , ) is a classical language belonging to the Italic branch of the Indo-European languages. Latin was originally a dialect spoken in the lower Tiber area (then known as Latium) around present-day Rome, but through the power of the ...
variation of the city's name in his official signature, which is signed "''N.'' Dunelm".
Some attribute the city's name to the legend of the
Dun Cow and the
milkmaid
A milkmaid, milk maid, dairymaid, or dairywoman was a girl or woman who milked cows. She also used the milk to prepare dairy products such as cream, butter, and cheese. Many large houses employed milkmaids instead of having other staff do the wor ...
who in legend guided the monks of
Lindisfarne carrying the body of
Saint Cuthbert
Cuthbert of Lindisfarne ( – 20 March 687) was an Anglo-Saxon saint of the early Northumbrian church in the Celtic tradition. He was a monk, bishop and hermit, associated with the monasteries of Melrose and Lindisfarne in the Kingdom of ...
to the site of the present city in 995 AD.
Dun Cow Lane is said to be one of the first streets in Durham, being directly to the east of Durham Cathedral and taking its name from a depiction of the city's founding etched in masonry on the south side of the cathedral.
The city has been known by a number of names throughout history. The original Nordic ''Dun Holm'' was changed to ''Duresme'' by the Normans and was known in
Latin
Latin (, or , ) is a classical language belonging to the Italic branch of the Indo-European languages. Latin was originally a dialect spoken in the lower Tiber area (then known as Latium) around present-day Rome, but through the power of the ...
as . The modern form ''Durham'' came into use later in the city's history. The north-eastern historian
Robert Surtees chronicled the name changes in his ''History and Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham'' but states that it is an "impossibility" to tell when the city's modern name came into being.
Durham is likely to be in
Armes Prydein
''Armes Prydein'' (, ''The Prophecy of Britain'') is an early 10th-century Welsh prophetic poem from the '' Book of Taliesin''.
In a rousing style characteristic of Welsh heroic poetry, it describes a future where all of Brythonic peoples are a ...
, derived from
Brittonic
Brittonic or Brythonic may refer to:
*Common Brittonic, or Brythonic, the Celtic language anciently spoken in Great Britain
*Brittonic languages, a branch of the Celtic languages descended from Common Brittonic
*Britons (Celtic people)
The Br ...
''
cajr'' meaning "an enclosed, defensible site" (''cf.''
Carlisle
Carlisle ( , ; from xcb, Caer Luel) is a city that lies within the Northern England, Northern English county of Cumbria, south of the Anglo-Scottish border, Scottish border at the confluence of the rivers River Eden, Cumbria, Eden, River C ...
;
Welsh
Welsh may refer to:
Related to Wales
* Welsh, referring or related to Wales
* Welsh language, a Brittonic Celtic language spoken in Wales
* Welsh people
People
* Welsh (surname)
* Sometimes used as a synonym for the ancient Britons (Celtic peop ...
) and the river-name ''Wear''.
History
Early history
Archeological evidence suggests a history of settlement in the area since roughly 2000 BC.
The present city can clearly be traced back to AD 995, when a group of monks from
Lindisfarne chose the strategic high peninsula as a place to settle with the body of
Saint Cuthbert
Cuthbert of Lindisfarne ( – 20 March 687) was an Anglo-Saxon saint of the early Northumbrian church in the Celtic tradition. He was a monk, bishop and hermit, associated with the monasteries of Melrose and Lindisfarne in the Kingdom of ...
, that had previously lain in
Chester-le-Street
Chester-le-Street (), also known as Chester, is a market town and civil parish in County Durham, England, around north of Durham and also close to Sunderland and Newcastle upon Tyne. It is located on the River Wear, which runs out to sea at ...
, founding a church there.
City origins, the Dun Cow story
![UK Durham Dun-Cow](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/UK_Durham_Dun-Cow.jpg)
Local legend states that the city was founded in A.D. 995 by divine intervention. The 12th-century chronicler
Symeon of Durham
__NOTOC__
Symeon (or Simeon) of Durham (died after 1129) was an English chronicler and a monk of Durham Priory.
Biography
Symeon entered the Benedictine monastery at Jarrow as a youth. It moved to Durham in 1074, and he was professed in 1085 or ...
recounts that after wandering in the north, Saint Cuthbert's
bier
A bier is a stand on which a corpse, coffin, or casket containing a corpse is placed to lie in state or to be carried to the grave.''The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language'' (American Heritage Publishing Co., Inc., New York, ...
miraculously came to a halt at the hill of
Warden Law
Warden Law is a village and civil parish in the City of Sunderland in Tyne and Wear, England. It is south-west of Sunderland city centre. It has a population of 33. At the 2011 Census the population remained less than 100. Details were included ...
and, despite the effort of the congregation, would not move.
[Symeon of Durham, Libellus de exordio atque procurso istius, hoc est Dunhelmensis (Tract on the origins and progress of this the church of Durham)] Aldhun
Aldhun of Durham (died 1018 or 1019), also known as Ealdhun, was the last Bishop of Lindisfarne (based at Chester-le-Street) and the first Bishop of Durham. He was of "noble descent".
Since the late 9th century the see of Lindisfarne was based a ...
, Bishop of
Chester-le-Street
Chester-le-Street (), also known as Chester, is a market town and civil parish in County Durham, England, around north of Durham and also close to Sunderland and Newcastle upon Tyne. It is located on the River Wear, which runs out to sea at ...
and leader of the order, decreed a holy
fast of three days, accompanied by prayers to the saint.
[Dufferwiel, Martin (2004/1996). ]
Durham: Over 1,000 Years of History and Legend
'. Edinburgh: Mainstream Publishing. . Chapter 1, "Beginnings". During the fast, Saint Cuthbert appeared to a certain monk named Eadmer, with instructions that the coffin should be taken to Dun Holm.
After Eadmer's revelation, Aldhun found that he was able to move the bier, but did not know where Dun Holm was.
The legend of the Dun Cow, which is first documented in ''The Rites of Durham'', an anonymous account about Durham Cathedral, published in 1593, builds on Symeon's account. According to this legend, by chance later that day, the monks came across a
milkmaid
A milkmaid, milk maid, dairymaid, or dairywoman was a girl or woman who milked cows. She also used the milk to prepare dairy products such as cream, butter, and cheese. Many large houses employed milkmaids instead of having other staff do the wor ...
at Mount Joy (southeast of present-day Durham). She stated that she was seeking her lost
dun cow, which she had last seen at Dun Holm. The monks, realising that this was a sign from the saint, followed her.
They settled at a wooded "hill-island" – a high wooded rock surrounded on three sides by the River Wear.
There they erected a shelter for the relics, on the spot where Durham Cathedral would later stand.
Symeon states that a modest wooden building erected there shortly thereafter was the first building in the city.
Bishop Aldhun subsequently had a stone church built, which was dedicated in September 998. This no longer remains, having been supplanted by the
Norman
Norman or Normans may refer to:
Ethnic and cultural identity
* The Normans, a people partly descended from Norse Vikings who settled in the territory of Normandy in France in the 10th and 11th centuries
** People or things connected with the Norm ...
structure.
The legend is interpreted by a Victorian relief stone carving on the north face of the cathedral and, more recently, by the bronze sculpture 'Durham Cow' (1997, Andrew Burton), which reclines by the River Wear in view of the cathedral.
Medieval era
![Durham 1610](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9a/Durham_1610.jpg)
During the medieval period the city gained spiritual prominence as the final resting place of Saint Cuthbert and
Saint Bede the Venerable. The
shrine
A shrine ( la, scrinium "case or chest for books or papers"; Old French: ''escrin'' "box or case") is a sacred or holy space dedicated to a specific deity, ancestor, hero, martyr, saint, daemon, or similar figure of respect, wherein they ...
of Saint Cuthbert, situated behind the
High Altar
An altar is a table or platform for the presentation of religious offerings, for sacrifices, or for other ritualistic purposes. Altars are found at shrines, temples, churches, and other places of worship. They are used particularly in paganis ...
of Durham Cathedral, was the most important religious site in England until the martyrdom of
St Thomas Becket at
Canterbury
Canterbury (, ) is a City status in the United Kingdom, cathedral city and UNESCO World Heritage Site, situated in the heart of the City of Canterbury local government district of Kent, England. It lies on the River Stour, Kent, River Stour.
...
in 1170.
Saint Cuthbert became famous for two reasons. Firstly, the miraculous healing powers he had displayed in life continued after his death, with many stories of those visiting the saint's shrine being cured of all manner of diseases. This led to him being known as the "wonder worker of England".
Secondly, after the first
translation
Translation is the communication of the meaning of a source-language text by means of an equivalent target-language text. The English language draws a terminological distinction (which does not exist in every language) between ''transla ...
of his
relics
In religion, a relic is an object or article of religious significance from the past. It usually consists of the physical remains of a saint or the personal effects of the saint or venerated person preserved for purposes of veneration as a tangi ...
in 698 AD, his body was found to be
incorruptible
''Incorruptible'' is an American comic book series written by Mark Waid and published by Boom! Studios. The series follows former supervillain Max Damage in his quest to become a superhero. The book is a spin-off of another Waid comic, ''Irredeema ...
. Apart from a brief translation back to
Holy Island
Sacred space, sacred ground, sacred place, sacred temple, holy ground, or holy place refers to a location which is deemed to be sacred or hallowed. The sacredness of a natural feature may accrue through tradition or be granted through a bless ...
during the
Norman Invasion
The Norman Conquest (or the Conquest) was the 11th-century invasion and occupation of England by an army made up of thousands of Normans, Norman, Duchy of Brittany, Breton, County of Flanders, Flemish, and Kingdom of France, French troops, ...
the saint's relics have remained enshrined to the present day. Saint Bede's bones are also entombed in the cathedral, and these also drew medieval
pilgrim
A pilgrim (from the Latin ''peregrinus'') is a traveler (literally one who has come from afar) who is on Pilgrimage, a journey to a holy place. Typically, this is a physical journey (often on foot) to some place of special significance to the a ...
s to the city.
Durham's geographical position has always given it an important place in the defence of England against the
Scots.
The city played an important part in the defence of the north, and Durham Castle is the only
Norman
Norman or Normans may refer to:
Ethnic and cultural identity
* The Normans, a people partly descended from Norse Vikings who settled in the territory of Normandy in France in the 10th and 11th centuries
** People or things connected with the Norm ...
castle
keep never to have suffered a breach. In 1314, the Bishopric of Durham paid the Scots a 'large sum of money' not to burn Durham. The
Battle of Neville's Cross
The Battle of Neville's Cross took place during the Second War of Scottish Independence on 17 October 1346, half a mile (800 m) to the west of Durham, England. An invading Scottish army of 12,000 led by King David II was defeated with heavy los ...
, took place near the city on 17 October 1346 between the English and Scots and was a disastrous loss for the Scots.
The city suffered from
plague
Plague or The Plague may refer to:
Agriculture, fauna, and medicine
*Plague (disease), a disease caused by ''Yersinia pestis''
* An epidemic of infectious disease (medical or agricultural)
* A pandemic caused by such a disease
* A swarm of pe ...
outbreaks in 1544, 1589 and 1598.
Prince Bishops
Owing to the
divine providence evidenced in the city's legendary founding, the
Bishop of Durham
The Bishop of Durham is the Anglican bishop responsible for the Diocese of Durham in the Province of York. The diocese is one of the oldest in England and its bishop is a member of the House of Lords. Paul Butler has been the Bishop of Durham ...
has always enjoyed the title "Bishop by Divine Providence" as opposed to other bishops, who are "Bishop by Divine Permission".
However, as the north-east of England lay so far from
Westminster
Westminster is an area of Central London, part of the wider City of Westminster.
The area, which extends from the River Thames to Oxford Street, has many visitor attractions and historic landmarks, including the Palace of Westminster, Bu ...
, the bishops of Durham enjoyed extraordinary powers such as the ability to hold their own parliament,
raise their own armies,
appoint their own
sheriffs
A sheriff is a government official, with varying duties, existing in some countries with historical ties to England where the office originated. There is an analogous, although independently developed, office in Iceland that is commonly transla ...
and
Justices
A judge is a person who presides over court proceedings, either alone or as a part of a panel of judges. A judge hears all the witnesses and any other evidence presented by the barristers or solicitors of the case, assesses the credibility an ...
, administer their own laws, levy taxes and customs duties, create fairs and markets, issue
charters
A charter is the grant of authority or rights, stating that the granter formally recognizes the prerogative of the recipient to exercise the rights specified. It is implicit that the granter retains superiority (or sovereignty), and that the rec ...
,
salvage shipwrecks, collect revenue from mines, administer the forests and mint their own coins.
So far-reaching were the bishop's powers that the
steward of Bishop
Antony Bek commented in 1299 AD: "There are two kings in England, namely the Lord King of England, wearing a crown in sign of his regality and the Lord Bishop of Durham wearing a
mitre
The mitre (Commonwealth English) (; Greek: μίτρα, "headband" or "turban") or miter (American English; see spelling differences), is a type of headgear now known as the traditional, ceremonial headdress of bishops and certain abbots in ...
in place of a crown, in sign of his regality in the
diocese
In Ecclesiastical polity, church governance, a diocese or bishopric is the ecclesiastical district under the jurisdiction of a bishop.
History
In the later organization of the Roman Empire, the increasingly subdivided Roman province, pro ...
of Durham". All this activity was administered from the castle and buildings surrounding the Palace Green.
Many of the original buildings associated with these functions of the
county palatine
In England, Wales and Ireland a county palatine or palatinate was an area ruled by a hereditary nobleman enjoying special authority and autonomy from the rest of a kingdom. The name derives from the Latin adjective ''palātīnus'', "relating to ...
survive on the peninsula that constitutes the ancient city.
![Durham Castle, April 2017 (2) (33802921566)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c3/Durham_Castle%2C_April_2017_%282%29_%2833802921566%29.jpg)
Every Bishop of Durham from 1071 to 1836 was a Prince Bishop except for the first Norman appointment,
Bishop Walcher
Walcher (died 14 May 1080) was the bishop of Durham from 1071,Fryde, et al. ''Handbook of British Chronology'' p. 241 a Lotharingian and the first Prince-bishop (appointed by the King, not the Pope).
He was the first non-Englishman to hold tha ...
(in office ca. 1071–1080), who was styled an Earl-Bishop.
Although the term "prince bishop" has been used as a helpful tool in the understanding the functions of the Bishops of Durham it is not a title they would have recognised.
The last Prince Bishop of Durham, Bishop
William Van Mildert,
is credited with the foundation of Durham University in 1832.
Henry VIII curtailed some of the Prince-Bishop's powers and, in 1538, ordered the destruction of the shrine of Saint Cuthbert.
A UNESCO site describes the role of the Prince-Bishops in the "buffer state between England and Scotland":
From 1075, the Bishop of Durham became a Prince-Bishop, with the right to raise an army, mint his own coins, and levy taxes. As long as he remained loyal to the king of England, he could govern as a virtually autonomous ruler, reaping the revenue from his territory, but also remaining mindful of his role of protecting England’s northern frontier.
Legal system
The Prince Bishops had their own
court system
A court is any person or institution, often as a government institution, with the authority to adjudicate legal disputes between parties and carry out the administration of justice in civil, criminal, and administrative matters in accordanc ...
, including most notably the
. The county also had its own
attorney general,
whose authority to bring an indictment for criminal matters was tested by central government in the case of ''R'' v ''
Mary Ann Cotton
Mary Ann Cotton (' Robson; 31 October 1832 – 24 March 1873) was an English convicted murderer who was executed for poisoning her stepson. Despite her sole conviction for murder, she is believed to have been a serial killer who killed many ...
'' (1873).
Certain courts and judicial posts for the county were abolished by the
Supreme Court of Judicature Act 1873
The Supreme Court of Judicature Act 1873 (sometimes known as the Judicature Act 1873) was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom in 1873. It reorganised the English court system to establish the High Court and the Court of Appeal, and ...
. Section 2 of the
Durham (County Palatine) Act 1836
The Durham (County Palatine) Act 1836 (6 & 7 Will 4 c 19) was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom. It abolished the temporal authority of the Bishop of Durham within the County Palatine of Durham, placing the county under lay administ ...
and section 41 of the
Courts Act 1971 abolished others.
Civil War and Cromwell (1640 to 1660)
![View of Durham Cathedral (4094887351)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/06/View_of_Durham_Cathedral_%284094887351%29.jpg)
The city remained loyal to King
Charles I Charles I may refer to:
Kings and emperors
* Charlemagne (742–814), numbered Charles I in the lists of Holy Roman Emperors and French kings
* Charles I of Anjou (1226–1285), also king of Albania, Jerusalem, Naples and Sicily
* Charles I of ...
in the
English Civil War
The English Civil War (1642–1651) was a series of civil wars and political machinations between Parliamentarians (" Roundheads") and Royalists led by Charles I ("Cavaliers"), mainly over the manner of England's governance and issues of re ...
– from 1642 to the execution of the king in 1649. Charles I came to Durham three times during his reign of 1625–1649. Firstly, he came in 1633
to the cathedral for a majestic service in which he was entertained by the
Chapter and Bishop at great expense. He returned during preparations for the First Bishops' War (1639).
His final visit to the city came towards the end of the civil war; he escaped from the city as
Oliver Cromwell
Oliver Cromwell (25 April 15993 September 1658) was an English politician and military officer who is widely regarded as one of the most important statesmen in English history. He came to prominence during the 1639 to 1651 Wars of the Three Ki ...
's forces got closer.
Local legend
[The Society of Charles the King and Martyr: Newsletter (12)] stated that he escaped down
the Bailey
The Bailey, or The Peninsula, is a historic area in the centre of Durham, England. It is a peninsula within a sharp meander in the River Wear, formed by isostatic adjustment of the land. The name 'The Bailey' derives from it being the ' out ...
and through Old Elvet. Another local legend has it that Cromwell stayed in a room in the present Royal County Hotel on Old Elvet during the civil war.
[(1798) Noble, Mark: ''The Lives of the English Regicides: And Other Commissioners of the Pretended High Court of Justice, Appointed to Sit in Judgment Upon Their Sovereign, King Charles the First''] The room is reputed to be haunted by his ghost. Durham suffered greatly during the civil war (1642–1651) and
Commonwealth (1649–1660). This was not due to direct assault by Cromwell or his allies, but to the abolition of the
Church of England
The Church of England (C of E) is the established Christian church in England and the mother church of the international Anglican Communion. It traces its history to the Christian church recorded as existing in the Roman province of Britain ...
and the closure of religious institutions pertaining to it. The city has always relied upon the
Dean
Dean may refer to:
People
* Dean (given name)
* Dean (surname), a surname of Anglo-Saxon English origin
* Dean (South Korean singer), a stage name for singer Kwon Hyuk
* Dean Delannoit, a Belgian singer most known by the mononym Dean
Titles
* ...
and
Chapter and cathedral as an economic force.
The castle suffered considerable damage and dilapidation during the Commonwealth due to the abolition of the office of bishop (whose residence it was). Cromwell confiscated the castle and sold it to the
Lord Mayor of London
The Lord Mayor of London is the mayor of the City of London and the leader of the City of London Corporation. Within the City, the Lord Mayor is accorded precedence over all individuals except the sovereign and retains various traditional powe ...
shortly after taking it from the bishop.
A similar fate befell the cathedral, it being closed in 1650 and used to incarcerate 3,000 Scottish prisoners.
Graffiti
Graffiti (plural; singular ''graffiti'' or ''graffito'', the latter rarely used except in archeology) is art that is written, painted or drawn on a wall or other surface, usually without permission and within public view. Graffiti ranges from s ...
left by them can still be seen today etched into the interior stone.
At the
Restoration
Restoration is the act of restoring something to its original state and may refer to:
* Conservation and restoration of cultural heritage
** Audio restoration
** Film restoration
** Image restoration
** Textile restoration
* Restoration ecology
...
in 1660,
John Cosin
John Cosin (30 November 1594 – 15 January 1672) was an English churchman.
Life
He was born at Norwich, and was educated at Norwich School and at Caius College, Cambridge, where he was scholar and afterwards fellow. On taking orders he was a ...
(a former
canon
Canon or Canons may refer to:
Arts and entertainment
* Canon (fiction), the conceptual material accepted as official in a fictional universe by its fan base
* Literary canon, an accepted body of works considered as high culture
** Western ca ...
) was appointed bishop (in office: 1660–1672) and set about a major restoration project. This included the commissioning of the famous elaborate woodwork in the cathedral
choir
A choir ( ; also known as a chorale or chorus) is a musical ensemble of singers. Choral music, in turn, is the music written specifically for such an ensemble to perform. Choirs may perform music from the classical music repertoire, which ...
, the font cover and the Black Staircase in the castle. Bishop Cosin's successor Bishop Lord
Nathaniel Crewe
Nathaniel Crew, 3rd Baron Crew (31 January 163318 September 1721) was Bishop of Oxford from 1671 to 1674, then Bishop of Durham from 1674 to 1721. As such he was one of the longest-serving bishops of the Church of England.
Crew was the son of Joh ...
(in office: 1674–1721) carried out other renovations both to the city and to the cathedral.
18th century
In the 18th century a plan to turn Durham into a seaport through the digging of a canal north to join the
River Team
The River Team is a tributary of the River Tyne in Gateshead, England.
Etymology
The name ''Team'' may have a Brittonic origin. The name may be from the Brittonic root ''tā-'', with a sense of "melting, thawing, dissolving", plus a nasal root ...
, a tributary of the
River Tyne near
Gateshead, was proposed by
John Smeaton
John Smeaton (8 June 1724 – 28 October 1792) was a British civil engineer responsible for the design of bridges, canals, harbours and lighthouses. He was also a capable mechanical engineer and an eminent physicist. Smeaton was the fi ...
. Nothing came of the plan, but the statue of Neptune in the Market Place was a constant reminder of Durham's maritime possibilities.
The thought of ships docking at the Sands or Millburngate remained fresh in the minds of Durham
merchant
A merchant is a person who trades in commodities produced by other people, especially one who trades with foreign countries. Historically, a merchant is anyone who is involved in business or trade. Merchants have operated for as long as indust ...
s. In 1758, a new proposal hoped to make the Wear navigable from Durham to
Sunderland by altering the river's course, but the increasing size of ships made this impractical. Moreover, Sunderland had grown as the north east's main port and centre for shipping.
In 1787 Durham infirmary was founded.
The 18th century also saw the rise of the
trade-union
A trade union (labor union in American English), often simply referred to as a union, is an organization of workers intent on "maintaining or improving the conditions of their employment", ch. I such as attaining better wages and benefits ...
movement in the city.
19th century
![Durham regatta Univ College Durham v's Newcastle Uni](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c6/Durham_regatta_Univ_College_Durham_v%27s_Newcastle_Uni.jpg)
The
Municipal Corporations Act 1835 gave governing power of the town to an elected body. All other aspects of the Bishop's temporal powers were abolished by the
Durham (County Palatine) Act 1836
The Durham (County Palatine) Act 1836 (6 & 7 Will 4 c 19) was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom. It abolished the temporal authority of the Bishop of Durham within the County Palatine of Durham, placing the county under lay administ ...
and returned to the Crown.
The Representation of the People Act 2000 and is regarded as the second most senior bishop and fourth most senior clergyman in the
Church of England
The Church of England (C of E) is the established Christian church in England and the mother church of the international Anglican Communion. It traces its history to the Christian church recorded as existing in the Roman province of Britain ...
. The
Court of Claims of 1953 granted the traditional right of the bishop to accompany the sovereign at the coronation, reflecting his seniority.
The first census, conducted in 1801, states that Durham City had a population of 7,100. The
Industrial Revolution
The Industrial Revolution was the transition to new manufacturing processes in Great Britain, continental Europe, and the United States, that occurred during the period from around 1760 to about 1820–1840. This transition included going f ...
mostly passed the city by. However, the city was well known for carpet making and weaving. Although most of the mediaeval weavers who thrived in the city had left by the 19th century, the city was the home of Hugh MacKay Carpets’ factory, which produced the famous brands of
axminster
Axminster is a market town and civil parish on the eastern border of the county of Devon in England. It is from the county town of Exeter. The town is built on a hill overlooking the River Axe which heads towards the English Channel at Ax ...
and
tufted carpets until the factory went into administration in April 2005. Other important industries were the manufacture of
mustard
Mustard may refer to:
Food and plants
* Mustard (condiment), a paste or sauce made from mustard seeds used as a condiment
* Mustard plant, one of several plants, having seeds that are used for the condiment
** Mustard seed, seeds of the mustard p ...
and coal extraction.
The Industrial Revolution also placed the city at the heart of the coalfields, the county's main industry until the 1970s. Practically every village around the city had a coal mine and, although these have since disappeared as part of the regional decline in heavy industry, the traditions, heritage and community spirit are still evident.
The 19th century also saw the founding of Durham University thanks to the benevolence of Bishop
William Van Mildert and the Chapter in 1832. Durham Castle became the first college
(
University College, Durham
, motto_English = Not for ourselves alone
, scarf =
, established =
, principal = Wendy Powers
, vice_principal = Ellen Crabtree
, undergraduates = 698
, postgraduates = 153
, coordinates =
, location_map = Durham
, map_size ...
) and the bishop moved to
Auckland Castle as his only residence in the county. Bishop Hatfield's Hall (later
Hatfield College, Durham
, motto_English = Either the first or with the first
, scarf =
, named_for = Thomas Hatfield
, established =
, senior_tutor =
, master = Ann MacLarnon (2017–)
, undergraduates = 1010 (2017/18)
, postgradu ...
) was added in 1846 specifically for the sons of poorer families, the Principal inaugurating a system new to English university life of advance fees to cover accommodation and communal dining.
The first
Durham Miners' Gala
The Durham Miners' Gala, founded by Pete Doherty, is a large annual gathering and labour festival held on the second Saturday in July in the city of Durham, England. It is associated with the coal mining heritage (and particularly that of miner ...
was attended by 5,000 miners in 1871 in Wharton Park,
and remains the largest socialist trade union event in the world.
20th century
Early in the 20th century coal became depleted, with a particularly important seam worked out in 1927, and in the following
Great Depression
The Great Depression (19291939) was an economic shock that impacted most countries across the world. It was a period of economic depression that became evident after a major fall in stock prices in the United States. The economic contagio ...
Durham was among those towns that suffered exceptionally severe hardship. However, the university expanded greatly.
St John's College and
St Cuthbert's Society
St Cuthbert's Society, colloquially known as Cuth's, is a college of Durham University. It was founded in 1888 for students who were not attached to the existing colleges. St Cuthbert's Society is a Bailey college, based on Durham's peninsula next ...
were founded on the
Bailey, completing the series of colleges in that area of the city. From the early 1950s to early 1970s the university expanded to the south of the city centre.
Trevelyan,
Van Mildert,
Collingwood, and
Grey
Grey (more common in British English) or gray (more common in American English) is an intermediate color between black and white. It is a neutral or achromatic color, meaning literally that it is "without color", because it can be composed o ...
colleges were established, and new buildings for
St Aidan's and
St Mary's colleges for women, formerly housed on the Bailey, were created. The final 20th century collegiate addition came from the merger of the independent nineteenth-century colleges of the Venerable Bede and St Hild, which joined the university in 1979 as the
College of St Hild and St Bede
A college (Latin: ''collegium'') is an educational institution or a constituent part of one. A college may be a degree-awarding tertiary educational institution, a part of a collegiate or federal university, an institution offering ...
.
The 1960s and 70s also saw building on New Elvet.
Dunelm House
Dunelm House is a Grade II listed university building in Durham, England, built in 1966 in the brutalist style. It belongs to Durham University and houses Durham Students' Union. Its listing entry cites, among other factors, that it is "a sign ...
for the use of the students' union was built first, followed by Elvet Riverside, containing lecture theatres and staff offices. To the southeast of the city centre sports facilities were built at Maiden Castle, adjacent to the
Iron Age fort of the same name, and the Mountjoy site was developed, starting in 1924, eventually containing the university library, administrative buildings, and facilities for the Faculty of Science.
![View from the 4th floor of the Calman centre](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/View_from_the_4th_floor_of_the_Calman_centre.jpg)
Durham was not bombed during
World War II
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
, though one raid on the night of 30 May 1942 did give rise to the local legend of 'St Cuthbert's Mist'. This states that the
Luftwaffe
The ''Luftwaffe'' () was the aerial-warfare branch of the German ''Wehrmacht'' before and during World War II. Germany's military air arms during World War I, the ''Luftstreitkräfte'' of the Imperial Army and the '' Marine-Fliegerabtei ...
attempted to target Durham, but was thwarted when Cuthbert created a mist that covered both the castle and cathedral, sparing them from bombing. The
exact events of the night are disputed by contemporary eyewitnesses.
The event continues to be referenced within the city, including inspiring the artwork 'Fogscape #03238' at Durham Lumiere 2015.
'Durham Castle and Cathedral' was named a
UNESCO
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization is a specialized agency of the United Nations (UN) aimed at promoting world peace and security through international cooperation in education, arts, sciences and culture. It ...
World Heritage Site
A World Heritage Site is a landmark or area with legal protection by an international convention administered by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). World Heritage Sites are designated by UNESCO for h ...
in 1986. Among the reasons given for the decision were 'Durham Cathedral
eingthe largest and most perfect monument of "Norman" style architecture in England', and the cathedral's vaulting being an early and experimental model of the
gothic style
Gothic or Gothics may refer to:
People and languages
*Goths or Gothic people, the ethnonym of a group of East Germanic tribes
**Gothic language, an extinct East Germanic language spoken by the Goths
** Crimean Gothic, the Gothic language spoken ...
. Other important UNESCO sites near Durham include
Auckland Castle,
North of England Lead Mining Museum
The North of England Lead Mining Museum, better known as Killhope, is an industrial museum near the village of Cowshill, County Durham, England. The museum stands on the site of the former Park Level Mine, which is being restored to show the w ...
and
Beamish Museum.
Geography
General
The
River Wear flows north through the city, making an incised
meander
A meander is one of a series of regular sinuous curves in the channel of a river or other watercourse. It is produced as a watercourse erodes the sediments of an outer, concave bank ( cut bank) and deposits sediments on an inner, convex ba ...
which encloses the centre on three sides to form Durham's
peninsula.
![Durham- across the Market Place (geograph 6899837)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/30/Durham-_across_the_Market_Place_%28geograph_6899837%29.jpg)
At the base of the peninsula is the Market Place, which still hosts regular markets; a permanent indoor market,
Durham Indoor Market, is also situated just off the Market Place. The Market Place and surrounding streets are one of the main commercial and shopping areas of the city. From the Market Place,
the Bailey
The Bailey, or The Peninsula, is a historic area in the centre of Durham, England. It is a peninsula within a sharp meander in the River Wear, formed by isostatic adjustment of the land. The name 'The Bailey' derives from it being the ' out ...
leads south past
Palace Green
Palace Green is an area of grass in the centre of Durham, England, flanked by Durham Cathedral and Durham Castle. The Cathedral and Castle together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Although initially not part of the site itself, Palace Green ...
; The Bailey is almost entirely owned and occupied by the university and the cathedral.
Durham is a hilly city, claiming to be built upon the symbolic seven hills. Upon the most central and prominent position high above the Wear, the cathedral dominates the skyline. The steep riverbanks are densely wooded, adding to the picturesque beauty of the city. West of the city centre, another river, the
River Browney
The River Browney is a river in County Durham, England, and the largest tributary of the River Wear.
The River Browney rises from a spring in Head Plantation, on the eastern slope of Skaylock Hill, about a mile south east of Waskerley. The spr ...
, drains south to join the Wear to the south of the city.
![Saddler Street (geograph 7152859)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f7/Saddler_Street_%28geograph_7152859%29.jpg)
There are three old roads out of the Market Place: Saddler Street heads south-east, towards
Elvet Bridge
Elvet Bridge is a medieval masonry arch bridge across the River Wear in the city of Durham, in County Durham, England. It links the peninsula in central Durham and the Elvet area of the city, and is a Grade I listed building.
Building
Buildi ...
, the Bailey and
Prebends Bridge
Prebends Bridge, along with Framwellgate and Elvet bridges, is one of three stone-arch bridges in the centre of Durham, England, that cross the River Wear.
History
Prebends Bridge was designed by George Nicholson and built from 1772 to 1778. ...
. Elvet Bridge leads to the
Elvet
Elvet is an area of the city of Durham, in County Durham, in England. It is situated on the opposite side of the River Wear from Durham Cathedral and forms the south-eastern part of central Durham. Elvet is currently unparished. Historically, ...
area of the city, Durham Prison and the south; Prebends Bridge is smaller and provides access from the Bailey to south Durham. Heading west, Silver Street leads out of the Market Place towards
Framwellgate Bridge
Framwellgate Bridge is a mediaeval masonry arch bridge across the River Wear, in Durham, England. It is a Grade I listed building.
History
The bridge was built after 1400 to replace one built early in the 12th century for Ranulf Flambard, who ...
and North Road, the other main shopping area of the city. From here, the city spreads out into the
Framwelgate
Framwelgate (or Framwellgate) is an area of Durham, County Durham, England. It is adjoined by Crossgate, North End, Framwellgate Moor and the River Wear.
The origin of the place-name is from the Old English words ''fram'' and ''wella'' toget ...
,
Crossgate,
Neville's Cross
Neville's Cross is a place in County Durham, in England. It is also a ward of Durham with a population taken at the 2011 census of 9,940. It is situated on the A167 trunk road to the west of the centre of Durham.
The area is primarily residenti ...
and viaduct districts, which are largely residential areas. Beyond the viaduct lie the outlying districts of
Framwellgate Moor
Framwellgate Moor is a village and civil parish in County Durham, England. It is situated to the north of Durham, and is adjacent to Pity Me and Newton Hall. It has a population of 5,404, and
Neville's Cross
Neville's Cross is a place in County Durham, in England. It is also a ward of Durham with a population taken at the 2011 census of 9,940. It is situated on the A167 trunk road to the west of the centre of Durham.
The area is primarily residenti ...
. Heading north from the Market Place leads to Claypath. The road curves back round to the east and beyond it lie
Gilesgate
Gilesgate is a place in County Durham, England. It is situated east of the centre of Durham. It is also a ward of Durham with a total population taken at the 2011 census was 8,074.
Gilesgate was originally the main street in a settlement associa ...
, Gilesgate Moor and Dragonville.
Green belt
As part of the wider Tyne and Wear Green Belt area, Durham's portion extends beyond its urban area extents of Framwellgate Moor/
Pity Me
Pity Me is a suburban village of Durham, England, located north of Framwellgate Moor and west of Newton Hall.
Etymology
There are various theories on the origin of Pity Me's unusual name. Most likely, as speculated in the ''Oxford Dictionary o ...
,
Elvet
Elvet is an area of the city of Durham, in County Durham, in England. It is situated on the opposite side of the River Wear from Durham Cathedral and forms the south-eastern part of central Durham. Elvet is currently unparished. Historically, ...
and Belmont, it being completely surrounded by
green belt
A green belt is a policy and land-use zone designation used in land-use planning to retain areas of largely undeveloped, wild, or agricultural land surrounding or neighboring urban areas. Similar concepts are greenways or green wedges, which ...
. This primarily helps to maintain separation from Chester-le-Street, and restrain expansion of the city and coalescence with nearby villages such as Bearpark, Great Lumley and Sherburn, County Durham, Sherburn. Landscape features and facilities within the green belt area include Raintonpark Wood, Belmont Viaduct, Ramside Hall, Durham City Golf Course, the River Wear, Browney and River Browney, Deerness basins, and Durham University Botanic Gardens. It was first drawn up in the 1990s.
Historical
![Scott inscription (Prebends Bridge)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7c/Scott_inscription_%28Prebends_Bridge%29.jpg)
The historical city centre of Durham has changed little over the past 200 years. It is made up of the peninsula containing the cathedral, palace green, former administrative buildings for the palatine and
Durham Castle
Durham Castle is a Norman castle in the city of Durham, England, which has been occupied since 1837 by University College, Durham after its previous role as the residence of the Bishops of Durham. Designated since 1986 as a cultural World Heri ...
.
This was a strategic defensive decision by the city's founders and gives the cathedral a striking position.
So much so that Symeon of Durham stated:
To see Durham is to see the English Zion, Sion and by doing so one may save oneself a trip to Jerusalem.
Sir Walter Scott was so inspired by the view of the cathedral from South Street (Durham), South Street that he wrote "Harold the Dauntless", a poem about Saxons and Vikings set in
County Durham and published on 30 January 1817. The following lines from the poem are carved into a stone tablet on Prebends Bridge:
The old commercial section of the city encompasses the peninsula on three sides, following the River Wear. The peninsula was historically surrounded by the castle wall extending from the castle
keep and broken by two gatehouses to the north and west of the enclosure.
After extensive remodelling and "much beautification"
by the Victorians the walls were removed with the exception of the gatehouse which is still standing on
the Bailey
The Bailey, or The Peninsula, is a historic area in the centre of Durham, England. It is a peninsula within a sharp meander in the River Wear, formed by isostatic adjustment of the land. The name 'The Bailey' derives from it being the ' out ...
.
The medieval city was made up of the cathedral, castle and administrative buildings on the peninsula.
The outlying areas were known as the townships and owned by the bishop,
the most famous of these being
Gilesgate
Gilesgate is a place in County Durham, England. It is situated east of the centre of Durham. It is also a ward of Durham with a total population taken at the 2011 census was 8,074.
Gilesgate was originally the main street in a settlement associa ...
(which still contains the mediaeval St Giles Church, Durham, St Giles Church), Claypath and
Elvet
Elvet is an area of the city of Durham, in County Durham, in England. It is situated on the opposite side of the River Wear from Durham Cathedral and forms the south-eastern part of central Durham. Elvet is currently unparished. Historically, ...
.
The outlying commercial section of the city, especially around the North Road area, saw much change in the 1960s during a redevelopment spearheaded by Durham City Council; however, much of the original mediaeval street plan remains intact in the area close to the cathedral and market place.
Most of the mediaeval buildings in the commercial area of the city have disappeared apart from the House of Correction and the Chapel of Saint Andrew, both under
Elvet Bridge
Elvet Bridge is a medieval masonry arch bridge across the River Wear in the city of Durham, in County Durham, England. It links the peninsula in central Durham and the Elvet area of the city, and is a Grade I listed building.
Building
Buildi ...
.
Georgian architecture, Georgian buildings can still be found on the Bailey and Old Elvet
most of which make up the colleges of Durham University.
Climate
The table below gives the average temperature, rainfall and sunshine figures taken between 1981 and 2010, and extreme temperatures back to 1850 for the Met Office weather station in Durham:
Like the rest of the United Kingdom, Durham has a temperate climate. At
[Durham 1971–2000 averages](_blank)
, Met Office. Retrieved on 20 August 2007. the average annual rainfall is lower than the national average of .
[UK 1971–2000 averages](_blank)
, Met Office. Retrieved on 20 August 2007. Equally there are only around 122 days
where more than of rain falls compared with a national average of 154.4 days.
The area sees on average 1445.4 hours of sunshine per year,
compared with a national average of 1125.0 hours.
There is frost (temperature), frost on 51.5 days
compared with a national average of 55.6 days.
Average daily maximum and minimum temperatures are and
compared with a national averages of and respectively.
The highest temperature recorded at Durham was during July 2022.
Demography
The county town of County Durham, until 2009 Durham was located in the Durham (district), City of Durham local government district, which extended beyond the city, and had a total population of 87,656 in 2001, covering 186.68 square kilometres in 2007.
In 2001, the unparished area of Durham had a population of 29,091, whilst the built-up area of Durham had a population of 42,939.
Many of the inner city areas are now inhabited by students living in shared housing.
Governance
![Durham Indoor Market - geograph](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e3/Durham_Indoor_Market_-_geograph.org.uk_-_883874.jpg)
The ancient borough covering Durham was Durham and Framwelgate, which was reformed by the
Municipal Corporations Act 1835. In 1974 it was merged with Durham Rural District and Brandon and Byshottles Urban District to form the Durham (district), City of Durham district of County Durham. The district was abolished in 2009 with its responsibilities assumed by Durham County Council, a unitary authorities of England, unitary authority.
Since April 2009 City status in the United Kingdom, city status has been held by charter trustees, who are the Durham County Councillors for the area of the former district. The trustees appoint the Mayor of Durham. The creation of the new City of Durham Parish Council has not affected the charter trustees.
Durham's Member of Parliament (United Kingdom), Member of Parliament (MP) is Mary Foy (politician), Mary Foy (Labour Party (UK), Labour).
Durham Town Hall is located on the west side of the Market Place. The earliest part of the complex of buildings is the guildhall which dates from 1665. The town hall, at the rear, was opened in 1851 (at the same time as the indoor market, which extends beneath and either side of the hall).
A local referendum was held on creating a Parish councils in England, parish council for Unparished area, unparished areas of Durham City in February and March 2017, in which 66% of voters supported the proposal. The County Council approved the plans in September 2017. The City of Durham Parish Council was created on 1 April 2018, with the first elections for the 15 council seats taking place on 3 May 2018. The parish council is divided into three electoral wards, electing a total of 15 councillors. These councillors are responsible for burial grounds, allotments, play areas and some street lighting. Elections to the town council are held every four years and the most recent elections were held in May 2019.
Economy
This is a table of trend of regional gross value added of County Durham at current basic price
published(pp. 240–253) by ''Office for National Statistics'' with figures in millions of British Pounds Sterling.
Landmarks
The whole of the centre of Durham is designated a conservation area. The conservation area was first designated on 9 August 1968, and was extended on 25 November 1980. In addition to the Cathedral and Castle, Durham contains over 630 listed buildings, 569 of which are located within the city centre conservation area. Particularly notable properties include:
Grade I listed
Grade II* listed
Grade II listed
Durham has multiple grade II listed buildings, including:
*Durham University Observatory, University Observatory
*The Chapel of the College of St Hild and St Bede
*The Victoria, Durham, The Victoria, a public house at 86 Hallgarth Street
* Redhills, Durham, Redhills, the headquarters building of the Durham Miners' Association.
*Durham police mast, currently dismantled, at the Durham Constabulary headquarters.
Durham Castle
![Durham Castle Bergfried](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1d/Durham_Castle_Bergfried.jpg)
The castle was originally built in the 11th century as a projection of the Norman power in Northern England, as the population of England in the north remained rebellious following the disruption of the Norman Conquest in 1066. It is an excellent example of the early motte and bailey castles favoured by the Normans. The holder of the office of Bishop of Durham was appointed by the King to exercise royal authority on his behalf and the castle was the centre of his command.
It remained the Bishop's Palace for the Bishops of Durham until the Bishop
William Van Mildert made Bishop Auckland their primary residence. A founder of Durham University, Van Mildert gave the castle as accommodation for the institution's first college, University College, Durham, University College. The castle was famed for its vast Great Hall, created by Bishop
Antony Bek in the early 14th century. It was the largest great hall in Britain until Bishop Richard Foxe shortened it at the end of the 15th century. However, it is still 46 feet high and over 33 yards long. The castle is still the home of University College, Durham (which is, as a result, known informally as "Castle"). It has been in continuous use for over 900 years.
Religious buildings
The Cathedral Church of Christ, Blessed Mary the Virgin and St Cuthbert of Durham, commonly referred to as
Durham Cathedral was founded in its present form in AD 1093 and remains a centre for Christian worship today. It is generally regarded as one of the finest Romanesque cathedrals in Europe and the rib vaulting in the nave marks the beginning of Gothic ecclesiastical architecture. The cathedral has been designated a
UNESCO
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization is a specialized agency of the United Nations (UN) aimed at promoting world peace and security through international cooperation in education, arts, sciences and culture. It ...
World Heritage Site
along with nearby Durham Castle, which faces it across Palace Green, high above the River Wear.
The cathedral houses the shrine and related treasures of Cuthbert of Lindisfarne, and these are on public view. It is also home to the head of St Oswald of Northumbria and the remains of the Venerable Bede.
The city also has other listed churches, some have been repurposed:
* Grade I listed
**St Giles Church, Durham, St Giles,
Gilesgate
Gilesgate is a place in County Durham, England. It is situated east of the centre of Durham. It is also a ward of Durham with a total population taken at the 2011 census was 8,074.
Gilesgate was originally the main street in a settlement associa ...
**St Margaret's Church Durham, St Margaret of Antioch, Crossgate
** St Mary-le-Bow (now Durham Heritage Centre and Museum, Durham Heritage Centre)
*St Oswald's Church, Durham, St Oswald's, grade II* listed
* Grade II listed
**St Cuthbert's Church, Durham, St. Cuthbert's (Catholic)
**St Nicholas Church, Durham, St. Nicholas
Education
Results relate to the 2008 examination series.
Primary
Primary schools include:
Secondary
Durham is served by four state secondary schools:
College or sixth form
![Gardens at Houghall College - geograph](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/Gardens_at_Houghall_College_-_geograph.org.uk_-_3242401.jpg)
New College Durham is the city's largest college of further education. It was founded in 1977 as a result of a merger between Neville's Cross College of Education and Durham Technical College. The college operated on two main sites near the city of Durham:
Neville's Cross
Neville's Cross is a place in County Durham, in England. It is also a ward of Durham with a population taken at the 2011 census of 9,940. It is situated on the A167 trunk road to the west of the centre of Durham.
The area is primarily residenti ...
and
Framwellgate Moor
Framwellgate Moor is a village and civil parish in County Durham, England. It is situated to the north of Durham, and is adjacent to Pity Me and Newton Hall. It has a population of 5,404, . The site at Framwellgate Moor opened in 1957 and has subsequently been rebuilt. The Neville's Cross Centre, which used to be housed in the county's former History of psychiatric institutions, asylum has been sold for development into houses.
Durham Sixth Form Centre specialises in sixth form courses, while East Durham College has sites just to the east of the city.
Independent
![Durham School](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e0/Durham_School.jpg)
There are three independent schools:
University
![Ustinov College, Durham (geograph 7137447)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ac/Ustinov_College%2C_Durham_%28geograph_7137447%29.jpg)
Durham is home to
Durham University
, mottoeng = Her foundations are upon the holy hills (Psalm 87:1)
, established = (university status)
, type = Public
, academic_staff = 1,830 (2020)
, administrative_staff = 2,640 (2018/19)
, chancellor = Sir Thomas Allen
, vice_chan ...
. It was founded as the University of Durham (which remains its official and legal name) by Act of Parliament in 1832 and granted a Royal Charter in 1837. It was one of the first universities to open in England for more than 600 years, and is claimed to be Third-oldest university in England debate, England's third oldest after the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Durham University has an international reputation for excellence, as reflected by its ranking in the top 150 of the world's universities.
Transport
Rail
![Durham station geograph-3849917-by-Ben-Brooksbank](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c5/Durham_station_geograph-3849917-by-Ben-Brooksbank.jpg)
station is situated on the East Coast Main Line between and . From the south, trains enter Durham over a Victorian viaduct, high above the city. A second station, , had also served the city. It opened in 1893, serving passengers until 1931, goods until 1954.
Road
By road, the A1 road (Great Britain), A1(M), the modern incarnation of the ancient Great North Road (Great Britain), Great North Road, passes just to the east of the city. The road's previous incarnation (now numbered A167 road, A167) passes just to the west.
Durham Market Place and its peninsula form the UK's first (albeit small) Durham congestion charge, congestion charging area, which was introduced in 2002.
Park and Ride
![Durham City Park and Ride Map](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/74/Durham_City_Park_and_Ride_Map.jpg)
Durham City park and ride, Park and Ride consists of three sites (Belmont, Howlands and Sniperley), which are located around the outskirts of the city centre. Frequent, direct bus services operate up to every 10 minutes between 7am and 7pm (Monday–Saturday). Car parking is free, with a return bus journey costing £2 per person (as of June 2020).
Bus station
![Durham bus station in the foreground - geograph](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/Durham_bus_station_in_the_foreground_-_geograph.org.uk_-_1054214.jpg)
Durham Bus Station was located off North Road, a short walk from the cathedral, university and railway station. It was managed and owned by the county council. In February 2021, the bus station was demolished to make way for a £10m redevelopment, due to take 18 months to complete. Currently, scheduled buses run from temporary stands on North Road and Milburngate.
The former station was served by Arriva North East and Go North East's local bus services, with frequent routes running in and around the North East England region. The bus station had 11 departure stands (lettered A–L), each of which was fitted with seating, next bus information displays, and timetable posters.
Air
Durham's nearest airports are Teesside International Airport, Teesside Airport within the county to the south-east and Newcastle International Airport, Newcastle Airport to the north, both of which are located from the city by road.
Sport
Archery
Durham hosts several archery clubs who shoot at various locations in the city, members of these clubs shoot for the region and individually at national events, as well as many who shoot purely for fun. In 2014 the regional Durham And Northumberland Archery Team won the National Intercounty Team Event at Lilleshall NSC, this event saw 260 archers from 19 counties competing over 2 days for the title.
Cricket
Durham City Cricket Club plays at Green Lane Cricket Ground near the River Wear. Formed in 1829, Durham City was one of the founder members of the Durham Senior Cricket League upon its creation in 1903 and the First XI have been crowned champions on thirteen occasions.
Football
The town's Association football, football club Durham City A.F.C. once boasted membership of the Football League between 1921 and 1928 but has long been a non-league club, currently playing in the Northern Football League, Northern League. Their home ground was New Ferens Park. However, after a dispute with the landlord, Durham were forced out of New Ferens Park and made a deal to groundshare at Willington F.C..
Durham is also home to FA Women's Championship team Durham Women's F.C., a team founded in 2014, they are a collaboration between South Durham and Cestria Girls and
Durham University
, mottoeng = Her foundations are upon the holy hills (Psalm 87:1)
, established = (university status)
, type = Public
, academic_staff = 1,830 (2020)
, administrative_staff = 2,640 (2018/19)
, chancellor = Sir Thomas Allen
, vice_chan ...
, the team are nicknamed The Wildcats, who are coached by Lee Sanders and play their Home games at Maiden Castle sports centre, Maiden Castle, part of
Durham University
, mottoeng = Her foundations are upon the holy hills (Psalm 87:1)
, established = (university status)
, type = Public
, academic_staff = 1,830 (2020)
, administrative_staff = 2,640 (2018/19)
, chancellor = Sir Thomas Allen
, vice_chan ...
.
Ice rink
Durham Ice Rink was a central feature of the city for some 60 years until it closed in 1996. It was home to the Durham Wasps, one of the most successful British ice hockey clubs during the 1980s and early 1990s. In 2009 an ice rink opened outside of the bowling alley; it lasted for 6–8 months.
Durham Ice Rink's demolition began in May 2013. On the location of the former ice rink now stands Freemans Reach which houses the Durham Passport Office
Rowing
![Prebends and weir](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/93/Prebends_and_weir.JPG)
The River Wear provides some 1800 m of river that can be rowed on, stretching from Old Durham Beck in the east () to the weir next to Durham School Boat Club's boathouse in the west (). This includes the 700 m straight used for most of the Durham Regatta races and some challenging navigation through the arches of Elvet Bridge, reputed to be the narrowest row through bridge in Europe,
and the bends of the river round the peninsula. There is a path running alongside the river's south bank (i.e. the Cathedral side) for the entire length of the stretch available for rowing, the concrete section between Hatfield College boathouse and Elvet Bridge being completed in 1882.
For Rowing (sport), sport rowing there are a number of boating clubs operating on this stretch, Durham Amateur Rowing Club, the Durham University Boat Club, the 14 Durham College Rowing, university college clubs of the Durham campus, Durham Constabulary and the school clubs – Durham School Boat Club and St Leonard's Catholic School, Durham, St Leonard's who row regularly in their own colours out of their own boathouses and Durham High School for Girls who may row out of Durham Amateur Rowing Club.
Durham Amateur Rowing Club
Durham Amateur Rowing Club, DARC, operates out of a purpose-built community clubhouse on the River Wear which opened in 2007:
The club takes part in the government scheme playing for success where it uses sport to combine rowing, science, computers and video to help boost literacy and numeracy.
Durham University rowing
Durham University rowing is divided into two sections: Durham University Boat Club and Durham College Rowing, the latter comprises 16 college boat clubs.
Regattas and head races
The River Wear is host to a number of regattas and head races throughout the year. These include:
=Durham Regatta
=
Durham Regatta has been held on the River Wear in Durham since 1834. It is the second oldest regatta in Britain and is often referred to as 'the Henley of the North'.
Pleasure boats
![Rowing in Durham](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/14/Rowing_in_Durham.jpg)
In addition to the competitive rowing and sculling of the boat clubs mentioned above, there is also a thriving hire of public pleasure boats from April to October.
Rugby
Durham City Rugby Clubhas its headquarters on Green Lane:
Durham University sport
Notable people
*Matt Baker (presenter), Matt Baker, (born in 1977), British TV presenter for the BBC. shows include ''Blue Peter'', ''The One Show'' and ''Countryfile''.
*Pat Barker, (born in Thornaby in 1943), novelist ('Regeneration' trilogy), now resident in Durham.
*Barnabe Barnes, (baptised 1571, died 1609), Elizabethan poet. Died in Durham.
*Tony Blair, (born 1953) former Prime Minister of the United Kingdom. Attended the Chorister School 1961–1966.
[The Chorister School]
*Józef Boruwłaski, Count Joseph Boruwlaski (1739–1837), dwarf, spent last years of his life in Durham.
*Rev. Edward Bradley (writer), Edward Bradley (1827–1889). Studied at Durham University and took his pen name "Cuthbert Bede" from the names of two its colleges.
*Richard Caddel (1949–2003), poet. Lived in Durham from the 1970s and was co-director of the Basil Bunting poetry centre at Durham University library from 1988.
*George Camsell (1902–1966), international footballer, born in
Framwellgate Moor
Framwellgate Moor is a village and civil parish in County Durham, England. It is situated to the north of Durham, and is adjacent to Pity Me and Newton Hall. It has a population of 5,404, .
*Paul Collingwood (born 1976), international cricketer. Born in Shotley Bridge, now resident in Durham.
*Ross Cooke (born 1988), professional wrestler previously signed to WWE under the name Saxon Huxley
*Liam Dixon (born 1993), cricketer
*Sir Kingsley Dunham (1910–2001), Professor of Geology and later Professor Emeritus at the University of Durham, director of the British Geological Survey from 1967 to 1975.
*John Bacchus Dykes (1823–1876), hymnologist, clergyman in Durham from 1849 to his death.
*John Meade Falkner (1858–1932), arms manufacturer and novelist. Lived in Durham from 1902, and became Honorary Reader in Paleography at the University of Durham, and Honorary Librarian to the Dean and Chapter Library of Durham Cathedral.
*James Fenton (born 1949), journalist and poet. Attended the Chorister School 1957–1962.
*Max Ferguson (born 1924), Canadian broadcaster, born in Durham.
*John Garth (composer), John Garth (1721–1810), composer. Lived in Durham for much of his life.
*Godric of Finchale (c. 1065–1170), popular medieval saint, briefly served as doorkeeper at St Giles Hospital in Durham before becoming a hermit.
*Andy Gomarsall (born 1974), International rugby union player. Born in Durham.
*John Gully (1783–1863), prize fighter, racehorse owner and politician. Resident in Durham at time of his death.
*Warren Hawke (born 1970), professional footballer
*John Hay Beith, Ian Hay, novelist (taught at Durham School)
*Lorna Hill, children's writer
*Trevor Horn (born 1949), record producer and member of the Buggles and Art Of Noise.
*Steph Houghton, (born 1988), professional women's footballer, currently playing for Manchester City W.F.C.
*Steve Howard, professional footballer
*Violet Hunt, novelist
*Cyril Edwin Mitchinson Joad, philosopher and radio broadcaster
*Stephen Kemble of the famous British acting family, the Kemble family lived, worked and is buried in Durham.
*Lawrence of Durham (died 1154), poet
*Members of the band Martha (band), Martha
*John Laws (judge), Sir John Grant McKenzie Laws, Lord Justice Laws, judge (attended the Chorister School
)
*Paddy McAloon, musician, born in Durham in 1957
*Thomas Morton (playwright), Thomas Morton, playwright.
*Pauline Murray (born 1958), lead-singer with punk-band Penetration (band), Penetration and solo artist during the 1980s
*Ben Myers, writer
*Stuart Parnaby, former Middlesbrough F.C., Middlesbrough footballer
*Anna Maria Porter, novelist
*Jane Porter, novelist
*Michael Ramsey, 100th Archbishop of Canterbury (a former
Bishop of Durham
The Bishop of Durham is the Anglican bishop responsible for the Diocese of Durham in the Province of York. The diocese is one of the oldest in England and its bishop is a member of the House of Lords. Paul Butler has been the Bishop of Durham ...
)
*Reginald of Durham (died c. 1190), hagiographer
*Gordon Scurfield, biologist and author
*Christopher Smart, poet
*Joseph Spence (author), Joseph Spence, literary memoirist
*Anne Stevenson, poet
*Mary Stewart (novelist), Mary Stewart (novelist and poet), born in Sunderland, graduated from Durham University and was a lecturer there in English Literature (author of 20 novels, including ''The Moonspinners'', ''Madam Will You Talk'', and the Merlin trilogy)
*
Robert Surtees, historian and antiquarian
*
Symeon of Durham
__NOTOC__
Symeon (or Simeon) of Durham (died after 1129) was an English chronicler and a monk of Durham Priory.
Biography
Symeon entered the Benedictine monastery at Jarrow as a youth. It moved to Durham in 1074, and he was professed in 1085 or ...
(died after 1129), historian
*Will Todd, composer
*Peter Vardy (businessman), Sir Peter Vardy, businessman (attended the Chorister School
)
*Hugh Walpole, Sir Hugh Walpole, novelist
* Walter of Durham (died c. 1305), 13th century painter and carpenter to Henry III of England, Henry III and Edward I of England, Edward I
*Arnold Wolfendale, Sir Arnold Wolfendale, Astronomer Royal
*James Wood (critic), James Wood, literary critic
Twin towns
Durham has a number of twin towns:
* Durham, North Carolina, United States
* Durham, Connecticut, United States
* Durham, New Hampshire, United States
* Tübingen, Germany
* Kreis Wesel, Germany
* Department of the Somme, France
* Banská Bystrica, Slovakia
* Nakskov, Denmark
* Alcalá de Guadaíra, Spain
* Jászberény, Hungary
Following the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine, Durham County council revoked the twinning arrangements with the Russian city of Kostroma, which had been in place since 1968.
Freedom of the City
The following people and military units have received the Freedom of the City of Durham.
Individuals
* Bobby Robson, Sir Bobby Robson.
* Desmond Tutu, Archbishop Desmond Tutu
Military units
* The Rifles: 2007.
* , Royal Navy, RN: 2010.
* No. 607 Squadron RAF, 607 Squadron, Royal Air Force, RAF: 6 December 2017.
See also
*Atom Bank
*Brancepeth Castle
*
Beamish Museum
Notes
References
Sources
* Bowey, K. and Newsome, M., ed. (2012). ''The Birds of Durham.'' Durham Bird Club.
External links
Durham County CouncilDurham World Heritage Site
{{Authority control
Durham, England,
Cities in North East England
Towns in County Durham
County towns in England
Rowing in the United Kingdom
Civil parishes in County Durham