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A tailcoat is a knee-length
coat A coat typically is an outer garment for the upper body as worn by either gender for warmth or fashion. Coats typically have long sleeves and are open down the front and closing by means of buttons, zippers, hook-and-loop fasteners, toggles, a ...
characterised by a rear section of the skirt, known as the ''tails'', with the front of the skirt cut away. The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse riding in the Early Modern era. Ever since the 18th century, however, tailcoats evolved into general forms of day and evening formal wear, in parallel to how the
lounge suit A suit, lounge suit, or business suit is a set of clothes comprising a suit jacket and trousers of identical textiles worn with a collared dress shirt, necktie, and dress shoes. A skirt suit is similar, but with a matching skirt instead of tr ...
succeeded the
frock coat A frock coat is a formal men's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at th ...
(19th century) and the justacorps (18th century). Thus, in 21st-century
Western dress code Western dress codes are a set of dress codes detailing what clothes are worn for what occasion. Conversely, since most cultures have intuitively applied some level equivalent to the more formal Western dress code traditions, these dress codes a ...
s for men, mainly two types of tailcoats have survived: #
Dress coat A tailcoat is a knee-length coat characterised by a rear section of the skirt, known as the ''tails'', with the front of the skirt cut away. The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse riding in the Early Mod ...
, an evening wear with a squarely cut away front, worn for formal
white tie White tie, also called full evening dress or a dress suit, is the most formal in traditional evening western dress codes. For men, it consists of a black tail coat (alternatively referred to as a dress coat, usually by tailors) worn over a whit ...
#
Morning coat A tailcoat is a knee-length coat (clothing), coat characterised by a rear section of the skirt, known as the ''tails'', with the front of the skirt cut away. The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse riding i ...
(or ''cutaway'' in
American English American English, sometimes called United States English or U.S. English, is the set of variety (linguistics), varieties of the English language native to the United States. English is the Languages of the United States, most widely spoken lan ...
), a day wear with a gradually tapered front cut away, worn for formal
morning dress Morning dress, also known as formal day dress, is the Formal attire, formal Western dress code for day attire, consisting chiefly of, for men, a morning coat, waistcoat, and formal trousers, and an appropriate gown for women. Men may also wear ...
In
colloquial language Colloquialism (), also called colloquial language, everyday language or general parlance, is the linguistic style used for casual (informal) communication. It is the most common functional style of speech, the idiom normally employed in conversa ...
without further specification, "tailcoat" typically designates the former, that is the evening (1) dress coat for white tie.


History


Shadbelly

In
equestrianism Equestrianism (from Latin , , , 'horseman', 'horse'), commonly known as horse riding (Commonwealth English) or horseback riding (American English), includes the disciplines of riding, Driving (horse), driving, and Equestrian vaulting, vaulting ...
, a variant called a shadbelly is still worn in certain disciplines in its eighteenth-century role as daytime formalwear. It is basically a form of dress coat which is closer in cut to the early nineteenth-century style worn by
Beau Brummel George Bryan "Beau" Brummell (7 June 1778 – 30 March 1840) was an important figure in Regency England and, for many years, the arbiter of men's fashion. At one time, he was a close friend of the Prince Regent, the future King George IV, but ...
than to the modern version worn with evening formal dress. The male version of the shadbelly is often called a "weaselbelly".


Levée dress coat

This is a type of dress coat traditionally worn with
court dress Court dress comprises the style of clothes and other attire prescribed for members of courts of law. Depending on the country and jurisdiction's traditions, members of the court ( judges, magistrates, and so on) may wear formal robes, gowns, ...
, until the mid-twentieth century. It was made of black velvet and traditionally worn at court, levées, and evening state parties by those who did not wear uniforms. A version made of black
barathea Barathea, sometimes spelled barrathea, is a soft fabric, with a broken twill weft rib, giving a surface that is lightly pebbled or ribbed, with the effect of a twill running both left and right. Original developed as a cloth for mourning clothes ...
was also worn as diplomatic dress. It was single breasted with a stand-up collar, with plain gauntlet cuffs, and two three-pointed flap pockets on the waist seam. It had six metal buttons at the front, and two decorative buttons at the back. The body of the coat was lined with black silk, and skirts with white silk. It was worn with breeches, black silk hose, white bow tie, white gloves, and court shoes (pumps) with steel buckles. The front of the coat was cut away squarely like a standard dress coat.


Military coatee

From c. 1790 until after the
Crimean War The Crimean War, , was fought from October 1853 to February 1856 between Russia and an ultimately victorious alliance of the Ottoman Empire, France, the United Kingdom and Piedmont-Sardinia. Geopolitical causes of the war included the de ...
, a red tail coat with short tails, known as a coatee, was part of the infantry uniform of the
British army The British Army is the principal land warfare force of the United Kingdom, a part of the British Armed Forces along with the Royal Navy and the Royal Air Force. , the British Army comprises 79,380 regular full-time personnel, 4,090 Gurk ...
. The collar and cuffs were in the regimental colors and the coats had white braid on the front. Elite light infantry units like the 95th Rifles were issued short green coats to provide camouflage and ease of movement. The Americans issued a similar uniform in dark blue to enlisted men during the
War of 1812 The War of 1812 (18 June 1812 – 17 February 1815) was fought by the United States of America and its indigenous allies against the United Kingdom and its allies in British North America, with limited participation by Spain in Florida. It bega ...
. This remained in service until 1833 when it was replaced with a
shell jacket A shell jacket is a garment used as part of a military uniform. It is a short jacket that reaches down to hip level. It was very common in the mid and late 19th century. The jacket was first created in Austria. History The shell jacket was firs ...
. Officers continued to wear tail coats until after the Mexican War when
frock coat A frock coat is a formal men's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at th ...
s became the standard field wear. By the time the
M1858 uniform The military uniforms of the Union Army in the American Civil War were widely varied and, due to limitations on supply of wool and other materials, based on availability and cost of materials. The ideal uniform was prescribed as a dark blue coa ...
was introduced tail coats had been relegated to full dress. The
Royal Navy The Royal Navy (RN) is the United Kingdom's naval warfare force. Although warships were used by English and Scottish kings from the early medieval period, the first major maritime engagements were fought in the Hundred Years' War against F ...
had an elaborate hierarchy of tailcoats for the officers, allowing further buttons and gilding according to rank and seniority. These were single-breasted for junior officers and double-breasted for those with the rank of lieutenant and above.


Highland coatee

This is worn with Highland dress, and has a square cut away front like a dress coat, but the tails are cut significantly shorter.


Footman's coat

This was worn as
livery A livery is an identifying design, such as a uniform, ornament, symbol or insignia that designates ownership or affiliation, often found on an individual or vehicle. Livery will often have elements of the heraldry relating to the individual or ...
, a servant's uniform. It was knee length with a sloped cut-away front like a morning coat. It was single breasted with a stand-up collar and gilt buttons. There were three-pronged side pockets similar in style to the levée dress coat.


Dress coat

A dress coat, sometimes called a swallow-tail or claw-hammer coat, is the coat that has, since the 1850s, come to be worn only in the evening by men as part of the
white tie White tie, also called full evening dress or a dress suit, is the most formal in traditional evening western dress codes. For men, it consists of a black tail coat (alternatively referred to as a dress coat, usually by tailors) worn over a whit ...
dress code A dress code is a set of rules, often written, with regard to what clothing groups of people must wear. Dress codes are created out of social perceptions and norms, and vary based on purpose, circumstances, and occasions. Different societies an ...
, also known as evening
full dress Western dress codes are a set of dress codes detailing what clothes are worn for what occasion. Conversely, since most cultures have intuitively applied some level equivalent to the more formal Western dress code traditions, these dress codes a ...
, for formal evening occasions. It is commonly referred to as just a ''tailcoat'', but amongst tailors (both British and American) and dress historians it is traditionally called a dress coat to differentiate it from other types of tailcoats. The modern dress coat is an evolution of the coat that was once both day and evening dress. It became increasingly popular from around the late 1790s and was particularly widespread during the
British Regency The Regency era of British history officially spanned the years 1811 to 1820, though the term is commonly applied to the longer period between and 1837. King George III succumbed to mental illness in late 1810 and, by the Regency Act 1811, h ...
, and in America in the 1830s to 1850s. The eighteenth-century dress coat was supplanted in the 1850s as formal day wear by the frock coat, which was in turn replaced in the twentieth century by the
morning coat A tailcoat is a knee-length coat (clothing), coat characterised by a rear section of the skirt, known as the ''tails'', with the front of the skirt cut away. The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse riding i ...
. In the Regency period, the dress coat with gilt buttons was always worn with non-matching trousers, pantaloons or breeches. Since the Victorian era, the modern dress coat for evening wear has been worn with matching trousers of the same cloth with two stripes of braiding down the side. The resulting suit is traditionally referred to by tailors as a ''dress suit''. A dress coat is waist length in the front and sides, and has two long tails reaching to the knees in back. Sometimes there is a pocket on the inside to hold
gloves A glove is a garment covering the hand. Gloves usually have separate sheaths or openings for each finger and the thumb. If there is an opening but no (or a short) covering sheath for each finger they are called fingerless gloves. Fingerless glo ...
. Since around the 1840s the dress coat has lacked outside side pockets, but prior to this it took flapped side pockets. Since the early twentieth century, it has become acceptable to have a welted pocket on the outside of the chest to hold a pocket square, but prior to this dress coats lacked any outer pockets. The front of the skirt is squarely cut away. Since around the 1830s the coat has been constructed with a waist seam that allows greater waist suppression. From the
Victorian era In the history of the United Kingdom and the British Empire, the Victorian era was the period of Queen Victoria's reign, from 20 June 1837 until her death on 22 January 1901. The era followed the Georgian period and preceded the Edwardia ...
, the
revers A revers or rever is a part of a garment that is reversed to display the lining or facing outside. The word is borrowed from French '' revers'', which is reflected in the final ''s'' being silent. The most common form of revers is the lapel. T ...
has taken facings in silk (
grosgrain Grosgrain ( , also sometimes ) is a type of fabric or ribbon defined by the fact that its weft is heavier than its warp, creating prominent transverse ribs. Grosgrain is a plain weave corded fabric, with heavier cords than poplin but lighter th ...
or
satin A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave ...
) on the
lapel Lapels ( ) are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat (clothing), coat below the collar and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit (clothes), suit jackets. Usually they are formed by folding over the front edges o ...
s. Although it is double-breasted, since the 1870s, the dress coat no longer fastens in the front. As a result, although there are two rows of buttons, these are all non-functional, serving only a decorative function. As part of modern white tie, a black dress coat is worn with a stiff, white wing-collar
dress shirt A dress shirt, button shirt, button-front, button-front shirt, or button-up shirt, is a garment with a collar and a full-length opening at the front, which is fastened using buttons or shirt studs. A button-down or button-down shirt is a dress ...
, with a plain starched (pique or plain-weave) bib that takes shirt studs,
single cuff A cuff is a layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment (shirt, coat, jacket, etc.) at the wrist, or at the ankle end of a trouser leg. The function of turned-back cuffs is to protect the cloth of the garment from fraying, an ...
s fastened with
cufflink Cufflinks are items of jewelry that are used to secure the cuffs of dress shirts. Cufflinks can be manufactured from a variety of different materials, such as glass, stone, leather, metal, precious metal or combinations of these. Securing of ...
s (of a white metal); a matching white marcella cotton or satin silk bowtie and white
waistcoat A waistcoat ( UK and Commonwealth, or ; colloquially called a weskit), or vest ( US and Canada), is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a dress shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men's formal wear. ...
; black trousers with one or two silk galon; and black oxfords (without a toe cap) or
pumps A pump is a device that moves fluids (liquids or gases), or sometimes slurries, by mechanical action, typically converted from electrical energy into hydraulic energy. Pumps can be classified into three major groups according to the method they u ...
; the shoes must be polished to a mirror shine or be made of
patent leather Patent leather is a type of coated leather that has a high-gloss finish. The coating process was introduced to the United States and improved by inventor Seth Boyden, of Newark, New Jersey, in 1818, with commercial manufacture beginning Septe ...
and are worn with black, over-the-calf silk socks. Additionally, a top hat, silk dress scarf, and white dress gloves are also seen as acceptable.


Morning coat

A morning coat is a single-breasted coat, with the front parts usually meeting at one button in the middle, and curving away gradually into a pair of tails behind, topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seam. The lapels are usually pointed (American English peak), not
step Step(s) or STEP may refer to: Common meanings * Stairs#Step, Steps, making a staircase * Walking * Dance move * Military step, or march ** Marching Arts Films and television * Steps (TV series), ''Steps'' (TV series), Hong Kong * Step (film), ' ...
(notch), since the coat is now only worn as formalwear. When it was first introduced, the step lapel was common, since it was worn as half dress. The coat can be grey or black as part of
morning dress Morning dress, also known as formal day dress, is the Formal attire, formal Western dress code for day attire, consisting chiefly of, for men, a morning coat, waistcoat, and formal trousers, and an appropriate gown for women. Men may also wear ...
, and is usually worn with striped, or very occasionally checked, trousers. The morning coat may also be worn as part of a morning suit, which is mid-grey with matching trousers and waistcoat. The modern morning coat (or cutaway in American English) is a man's coat worn as the principal item in morning dress. The name derives from morning nineteenth-century
horseback riding Equestrianism (from Latin , , , 'horseman', 'horse'), commonly known as horse riding (Commonwealth English) or horseback riding (American English), includes the disciplines of riding, driving, and vaulting. This broad description includes the ...
exercise for gentlemen. It was regarded as an informal form of
half dress Western dress codes are a set of dress codes detailing what clothes are worn for what occasion. Conversely, since most cultures have intuitively applied some level equivalent to the more formal Western dress code traditions, these dress codes a ...
. Gradually it became acceptable as an alternative to the frock coat for formal day wear or full dress. Since the nineteenth century it is normally only seen at weddings, at formal baptisms, and in England and Australia, at races such as
Royal Ascot Ascot Racecourse ("ascot" pronounced , often pronounced ) is a dual-purpose British racecourse, located in Ascot, Berkshire, England, which is used for thoroughbred horse racing. It hosts 13 of Britain's 36 annual Flat Group 1 horse races and ...
, the Derby and the
Victoria Derby The Victoria Derby, also known as the Penfolds Victoria Derby, is a Victoria Racing Club Group 1 Thoroughbred horse race for three-year-olds held under Set Weights conditions over a distance of 2,500 metres at Flemington Racecourse, in Melbour ...
where it is worn with a contrasting waistcoat, usually light grey or sometimes 'fancy'. It is very occasionally seen at funerals but more often it is used as day wear at formal luncheons, especially civic occasions under formal gowns, when worn with a black matching waistcoat (or 'vest'). Male members of the
cabinet of Japan The is the chief executive body of the government of Japan. It consists of the prime minister, who is appointed by the emperor after being designated by the National Diet, and up to nineteen other members, called Ministers of State. The prime ...
wear it in their first public appearance following the formation of the cabinet. The Marshal and Clerk of the
United States Supreme Court The Supreme Court of the United States (SCOTUS) is the highest court in the federal judiciary of the United States. It has ultimate appellate jurisdiction over all U.S. federal court cases, and over state court cases that involve a point o ...
wear morning coats when the justices are appearing in public wearing their traditional robes, for example when the court is in session, or when attending the President's
State of the Union address The State of the Union Address (sometimes abbreviated to SOTU) is an annual message delivered by the president of the United States to a joint session of the United States Congress near the beginning of each calendar year on the current conditio ...
. At one time all attorneys appearing before the court wore morning coats but they now wear standard business attire. The
United States Solicitor General The solicitor general of the United States is the fourth-highest-ranking official in the United States Department of Justice. Elizabeth Prelogar has been serving in the role since October 28, 2021. The United States solicitor general represent ...
(when the office is held by a male) and his or her male deputies continue the tradition of wearing morning dress when arguing before the court. In modern American English, morning coats are referred to as ''cutaway coats''.


References


Bibliography

*Antongiavanni, Nicholas: ''The Suit'', HarperCollins Publishers, New York, 2006. *Ashelford, Jane: ''The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914'', Abrams, 1996. *Byrd, Penelope: ''The Male Image, Men's Fashion in England 1300-1970''. B.T. Batsford Ltd, London, 1979. *Croonborg, Frederick: ''The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring''. Croonborg Sartorial Co. New York and Chicago, 1907 * Cunnington, C. Willett; Cunnington, Phillis (1959): ''Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century'', Plays Inc, Boston, 1970 reprint *Devere, Louis: ''The Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System (London, 1866)'' revised and edited by
R. L. Shep R. L. Shep is the professional name of Robert Lee "Robb" Shep (27 February 1933 - December 21, 2022), an American artist, writer, publisher, textile scholar, shiatsu practitioner, and member of the Mendocino Healing Community. Shep is best known fo ...
. R. L. Shep, Mendocino, California, 1986. *Doyle, Robert: ''The Art of the Tailor'', Sartorial Press Publications, Stratford, Ontario; 2005. *Druessedow, Jean L. (editor): ''Men's Fashion Illustration from the Turn of the Century'' Reprint. Originally published: New York: Jno J. Mitchell Co. 1910. Dover Publications, 1990 * Flusser, Alan: ''Dressing the Man'', Harper-Collins, 2002. * Mansfield, Alan; Cunnington, Phillis: ''Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century 1900-1950'', Plays Inc, Boston, 1973 *Minister, Edward: ''The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting (London, 1853) Vol 1 & II''. Edited with notes by
R.L. Shep R. L. Shep is the professional name of Robert Lee "Robb" Shep (27 February 1933 - December 21, 2022), an American artist, writer, publisher, textile scholar, shiatsu practitioner, and member of the Mendocino Healing Community. Shep is best known fo ...
, Mendocino, California, 1993. *Peacock, John: ''Men's Fashion: the complete sourcebook'', Thames and Hudson Ltd, London, 1996. * Roetzel, Bernhard: ''Gentleman: a timeless fashion''. Könemann, Köln, 2004. *Salisbury, W. S.: ''Salisbury's System of Actual Measurement and Drafting for all Styles of Coats upon Geometric Principles''. New York 1866. Reprinted in ''Civil War Gentlemen: 1860 Apparel Arts and Uniforms'' by
R. L. Shep R. L. Shep is the professional name of Robert Lee "Robb" Shep (27 February 1933 - December 21, 2022), an American artist, writer, publisher, textile scholar, shiatsu practitioner, and member of the Mendocino Healing Community. Shep is best known fo ...
, Mendocino, California, 1994. *Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, ''Fabric of Society: a century of people and their clothes 1770-1870''. Laura Ashley Press, Carno, Powys *Unknown author: ''The Standard Work on Cutting Men's Garments''. 4th ed. Originally pub. 1886 by Jno J. Mitchell, New York. *Vincent, W. D. F.: ''The Cutter's Practical Guide. Vol II "All kinds of body coats"''. The John Williamson Company, London, circa 1893. *Waugh, Norah: ''The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900'', Routledge, London, 1964. *Whife, A. A. (ed): ''The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier''. The Caxton Publishing Company Ltd, London, 1951 {{Clothing 1790s fashion 19th-century fashion 20th-century fashion 21st-century fashion Formal wear Coats (clothing) History of clothing (Western fashion) History of fashion