![Cdsdechastelain](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2b/Cdsdechastelain.jpg)
Doublet is the term describing any of several types of jacket worn with Scottish
highland dress
Highland dress is the traditional, regional dress of the Highlands and Isles of Scotland. It is often characterised by tartan (''plaid'' in North America). Specific designs of shirt, jacket, bodice and headwear may also be worn along with clan ...
; referring to both uniform and evening jackets.
Uniform doublets are found in a number of different styles. Commonly they are short cut with four Inverness flaps skirt and buttoned
gauntlet cuff
A cuff is a layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment (shirt, coat, jacket, etc.) at the wrist, or at the ankle end of a trouser leg. The function of turned-back cuffs is to protect the cloth of the garment from fraying, an ...
s. It can be any colour depending upon the regiment. It is also used by civilian
pipe bands
A pipe band is a musical ensemble consisting of pipers and drummers. The term pipes and drums, used by military pipe bands is also common.
The most common form of pipe band consists of a section of pipers playing the Great Highland bagpipe, a ...
.
Formal jackets
![Highland outfits advertisement (1957)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c0/Highland_outfits_advertisement_%281957%29.jpg)
As with both uniform doublets and civilian dress, there are a number of styles of jacket or doublet suitable for wear with highland dress. Kinloch Anderson, one of the older makers of highland dress in Scotland, considers the "Coatee and Vest" (often called the Prince Charlie Jacket), Argyll Jacket, Regulation Doublet, Montrose Doublet, Sheriffmuir Jacket or Kenmore jacket" suitable for "black tie" evening wear, with all except the Argyll Jacket also considered acceptable for "white tie" events. The Argyll jacket and tweed jackets are appropriate for day wear. Different tailors describe similar jackets using different names.
This garment is similar to a
mess jacket
The mess jacket is a type of formal jacket that ends at the waist. It features either a non-fastening double breast cut or a single-breasted version that fastens. , with buttoned
gauntlet cuff
A cuff is a layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment (shirt, coat, jacket, etc.) at the wrist, or at the ankle end of a trouser leg. The function of turned-back cuffs is to protect the cloth of the garment from fraying, an ...
s, short or no skirts, and with or without
lapel
Lapels ( ) are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat below the collar and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets. Usually they are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket or coat and sewing t ...
s. It may have a row of silver
heraldic
Heraldry is a discipline relating to the design, display and study of armorial bearings (known as armory), as well as related disciplines, such as vexillology, together with the study of ceremony, rank and pedigree. Armory, the best-known branc ...
buttons on each side. It may be worn with a lace
jabot and cuff set, and a high-buttoned
waistcoat
A waistcoat ( UK and Commonwealth, or ; colloquially called a weskit), or vest ( US and Canada), is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a dress shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men's formal wear. I ...
. It is typically made of
velvet
Weave details visible on a purple-colored velvet fabric
Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word ''velvety'' means ...
or
wool
Wool is the textile fibre obtained from sheep and other mammals, especially goats, rabbits, and camelids. The term may also refer to inorganic materials, such as mineral wool and glass wool, that have properties similar to animal wool.
As ...
, with
satin
A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave ...
lapels, and may feature
epaulettes
Epaulette (; also spelled epaulet) is a type of ornamental shoulder piece or decoration used as insignia of rank by armed forces and other organizations. Flexible metal epaulettes (usually made from brass) are referred to as ''shoulder scales'' ...
. The highland doublet is
jacobean in style and may date to that period or earlier. Variation may be called an Argyll jacket or
Prince Charlie jacket
The Prince Charlie jacket is a formal black-tie jacket for Highland dress that was initially listed in tailor catalogs of the early 1920s as a coatee
A coatee was a type of tight fitting uniform coat or jacket, which was waist length at the f ...
(or coatee).
Varieties
The Regulation doublet is typically black barathea or coloured velvet with silk-faced peaked lapels, buttoned gauntlet cuffs, and epaulettes, similar to the Prince Charlie
coatee
A coatee was a type of tight fitting uniform coat or jacket, which was waist length at the front and had short tails behind. The coatee began to replace the long tail coat in western armies at the end of the eighteenth century, but was itself supe ...
, which it pre-dates. Unlike the coatee, which is cut like a mess jacket, the doublet has braided "tashes" (otherwise known as Inverness skirts/flaps) at the front and back. The Regulation doublet was at one time the regulation uniform jacket of the Highland regiments and is worn with a three-button waistcoat which may be made from the same cloth as the jacket, white piqué, or tartan cloth. The doublet should be worn with a black silk bow tie for black tie events, and either a white piqué bow tie, or a lace jabot for white tie events.
The Balmoral Doublet is a single-breasted jacket traditionally made from velvet. It is usually worn with a belt and black
bow tie
The bow tie is a type of necktie. A modern bow tie is tied using a common shoelace knot, which is also called the bow knot for that reason. It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied around the collar of a shirt in a symmetrical manner so that th ...
.
The Montrose Doublet (as defined by Kinloch Anderson) is "a double breasted short cut evening jacket with high collar. There are ten symmetrically positioned Celtic buttons on front, three Celtic buttons on each cuff and epaulettes with Celtic buttons on each shoulder". It is normally worn with a belt, lace jabot, and lace cuffs, and may be made from black barathea or velvet.
The Kenmore doublet is a single-breasted doublet, worn buttoned up (no lapels) and without a waistcoat. It is traditionally made from velvet and is always worn with a belt, lace jabot and cuffs. It may be worn on all formal occasions. It is named after the town of
Kenmore which lies at the east of
Loch Tay
Loch Tay ( gd, Loch Tatha) is a freshwater loch in the central highlands of Scotland, in the Perth and Kinross and Stirling council areas. It is the largest body of fresh water in Perth and Kinross, and the sixth largest loch in Scotland. The ...
.
The Sheriffmuir doublet is a doublet with gauntlet cuffs and a stand collar with no lapels. It is typically worn open with a waistcoat, lace jabot and cuffs.
Sheriffmuir
Sheriffmuir (or Sheriff Muir; Scottish Gaelic: Sliabh an t-Siorraim), the site of the inconclusive 1715 Battle of Sheriffmuir (part of the Jacobite rising of 1715), lies on the slopes of the Ochil Hills in Scotland, just inside the Perthshire b ...
lies between
Dunblane
Dunblane (, gd, Dùn Bhlàthain) is a small town in the council area of Stirling in central Scotland, and inside the historic boundaries of the county of Perthshire. It is a commuter town, with many residents making use of good transport links ...
and
Stirling
Stirling (; sco, Stirlin; gd, Sruighlea ) is a city in central Scotland, northeast of Glasgow and north-west of Edinburgh. The market town, surrounded by rich farmland, grew up connecting the royal citadel, the medieval old town with its me ...
overlooking the Allan Water. In 1715 a battle was fought here between the
Jacobites
Jacobite means follower of Jacob or James. Jacobite may refer to:
Religion
* Jacobites, followers of Saint Jacob Baradaeus (died 578). Churches in the Jacobite tradition and sometimes called Jacobite include:
** Syriac Orthodox Church, sometime ...
under the
Earl of Mar
There are currently two earldoms of Mar in the Peerage of Scotland, and the title has been created seven times. The first creation of the earldom is currently held by Margaret of Mar, 31st Countess of Mar, who is also clan chief of Clan Mar. The ...
and the Government forces under the
Duke of Argyll
Duke of Argyll ( gd, Diùc Earraghàidheil) is a title created in the peerage of Scotland in 1701 and in the peerage of the United Kingdom in 1892. The earls, marquesses, and dukes of Argyll were for several centuries among the most powerful ...
.
References
External links
Sheriffmuir Doublet Jacket with Waistcoat (29-05-2020-)
Montrose Doublet Jacket for Men (29-05-2020)
highland (23-08-2022)
{{Sister bar, auto=yes, wikt=doublet
Jackets
Scottish clothing