The spectator shoe, also known as co-respondent shoe, is a style of low-heeled,
oxford
Oxford () is a city in England. It is the county town and only city of Oxfordshire. In 2020, its population was estimated at 151,584. It is north-west of London, south-east of Birmingham and north-east of Bristol. The city is home to the ...
,
semi-brogue or
full brogue constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker colour than the main body of the shoe. This style of shoe dates from the nineteenth century but reached the height of popularity during the 1920s and 1930s.
Description
Common colour combinations include a white shoe body with black, brown or tan toe and heel caps, but other colours can be used. The spectator is typically an all leather shoe, but can be constructed using a canvas, mesh or suede body. The spectator was originally constructed of willow calf leather and white buck or reverse calf suede. The white portion was sometimes made from a mesh material, for better ventilation in hot weather.
Saddle shoe
The
saddle shoe, another style of two-tone oxford shoe, can be distinguished from the spectator shoe by noting the saddle shoe's plain toe and distinctive, saddle-shaped decorative panel placed mid foot.
Origin of name
John Lobb John Lobb (27 December 1829 – 17 January 1895) was an English shoemaker and the founder of the company John Lobb Bootmaker. He founded his first successful company making boots for gold diggers in Australia.
Early life
John Lobb was born in Tywar ...
, the famous English footwear maker, claimed to have designed the first spectator shoe as a
cricket
Cricket is a bat-and-ball game played between two teams of eleven players on a field at the centre of which is a pitch with a wicket at each end, each comprising two bails balanced on three stumps. The batting side scores runs by striki ...
shoe in 1868.
In the 1920s and 1930s in England, this style was considered too flamboyant for a gentleman, and therefore was called a tasteless style. Because the style was popular among
lounge lizards and
cads, who were sometimes associated with
divorce
Divorce (also known as dissolution of marriage) is the process of terminating a marriage or marital union. Divorce usually entails the canceling or reorganizing of the legal duties and responsibilities of marriage, thus dissolving the ...
cases, a nickname for the style was
co-respondent shoe, a pun on the colour arrangement on the shoe, and because "co-respondent" is the legal description of a third party caught ''
in flagrante delicto'' with the guilty party in a case of
adultery
Adultery (from Latin ''adulterium'') is extramarital sex that is considered objectionable on social, religious, moral, or legal grounds. Although the sexual activities that constitute adultery vary, as well as the social, religious, and legal ...
.
Wallis Simpson
Wallis, Duchess of Windsor (born Bessie Wallis Warfield, later Simpson; June 19, 1896 – April 24, 1986), was an American socialite and wife of the former King Edward VIII. Their intention to marry and her status as a divorcée caused ...
was famed for wearing this style, although it was said that she was an adulteress and that it was
Edward VIII
Edward VIII (Edward Albert Christian George Andrew Patrick David; 23 June 1894 – 28 May 1972), later known as the Duke of Windsor, was King of the United Kingdom and the Dominions of the British Empire and Emperor of India from 20 January 19 ...
who acted the part of co-respondent.
In popular culture
In
J. G. Ballard's novel and
Steven Spielberg
Steven Allan Spielberg (; born December 18, 1946) is an American director, writer, and producer. A major figure of the New Hollywood era and pioneer of the modern blockbuster, he is the most commercially successful director of all time. Spie ...
's film ''
Empire of the Sun'', protagonist Jim Graham (
Christian Bale) covets a fellow prisoner's spectator
golf shoes. After the prisoner dies, he is given the shoes as a gift from Dr. Ransome (
Nigel Havers).
In the 1992 film ''
Hoffa'',
Jack Nicholson and
Danny DeVito were supplied with spectators from Wisconsin shoemaker
Allen Edmonds (specifically the Broadstreet model).
In the 1920s-set crime drama, "
Boardwalk Empire
''Boardwalk Empire'' is an American period crime drama television series created by Terence Winter and broadcast on the premium cable channel HBO. The series is set chiefly in Atlantic City, New Jersey, during the Prohibition era of the 1920s and ...
", the character Enoch "Nucky" Thompson, can be seen wearing pink-and-black spectators, especially in the opening credits sequence.
In
Vikram Seth
Vikram Seth (born 20 June 1952) is an Indian novelist and poet. He has written several novels and poetry books. He has won several awards such as Padma Shri, Sahitya Academy Award, Pravasi Bharatiya Samman, WH Smith Literary Award and Crosswor ...
's novel and television adaptation ''
A Suitable Boy,'' Haresh Khanna is a manager of a shoe factory who is disparaged for his 'co-respondent shoes'.
In
Doctor Who
''Doctor Who'' is a British science fiction television series broadcast by the BBC since 1963. The series depicts the adventures of a Time Lord called the Doctor, an extraterrestrial being who appears to be human. The Doctor explores the u ...
, the
Seventh Doctor (
Sylvester McCoy) wore a pair of spectator shoes.
In the 2020 movie ''
Tenet
A tenet is a synonym for axiom, one of the principles on which a belief or theory is based.
Tenet may also refer to:
Media
* Tenet (band), a heavy metal band
* TENET (ensemble), an American early music vocal and instrumental group
* ''Tenet'' (f ...
'', Neil can be seen wearing spectator shoes.
In
Kate Atkinson Kate Atkinson may refer to:
* Kate Atkinson (actress) (born 1972), Australian actress
* Kate Atkinson (writer)
Kate Atkinson (born 20 December 1951) is an English writer of novels, plays and short stories. She is known for creating the Jac ...
’s 2022 novel ''
Shrines of Gaity
A shrine ( la, scrinium "case or chest for books or papers"; Old French: ''escrin'' "box or case") is a sacred or holy space dedicated to a specific deity, ancestor, hero, martyr, saint, daemon, or similar figure of respect, wherein they ar ...
'', set in 1926 London, the character Landor wears co-respondent shoes.
Notes
References
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External links
{{Footwear
Shoes
History of fashion
1930s fashion
1920s fashion
1940s fashion