Climber's finger is one of the most common
climbing injuries Injuries in rock climbing may occur due to falls, or due to overuse (see Sports injury). Injuries due to falls are relatively uncommon; the vast majority of injuries result from overuse, most often occurring in the fingers, elbows, and shoulders. Su ...
within the sport of
rock climbing
Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ...
, accounting for about 30% of finger injuries seen in climbers.
It is an
overuse injury that usually manifests in a swollen middle or ring finger due to a damaged
flexor tendon pulley, normally the
A2 or
A4 pulley. It is particularly common after a repeated utilization of small holds. Continued climbing on an injured finger may result in increased downtime in order to recover.
The injury was first described in 1988 by Dr. S.R. Bollen.
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Cause
Rock climbers often support their body with bent fingers on small edges, known as "crimps", especially on more difficult routes. This can cause a characteristic injury to the pulleys (annular ligaments), named "climber's finger".
Treatment
Management of pulley injuries of the fingers is to follow the RICE
Rice is the seed of the grass species ''Oryza sativa'' (Asian rice) or less commonly ''Oryza glaberrima
''Oryza glaberrima'', commonly known as African rice, is one of the two domesticated rice species. It was first domesticated and grown i ...
method. Other treatment suggestions are listed below:
* The patient is to immediately cease climbing and any other activity that puts stress on the injured finger, and consult a doctor if there is noticeable "bowstringing" on the flexor tendon
A flexor is a muscle that flexes a joint. In anatomy, flexion (from the Latin verb ''flectere'', to bend) is a joint movement that decreases the angle between the bones that converge at the joint. For example, one’s elbow joint flexes when one ...
or if unsure about the nature of the injury.
* There are different theories out there for the preferred line of approach. Some argue for the use of NSAIDs and ice for visible swelling only.
* Light massage can be used to increase blood flow to the injured area, aiding recovery. Massage tools such as acupressure rings can be beneficial in the same way.
* Protein
Proteins are large biomolecules and macromolecules that comprise one or more long chains of amino acid residues. Proteins perform a vast array of functions within organisms, including catalysing metabolic reactions, DNA replication, respo ...
supplements may help the tendons recover faster by providing much needed building block nutrients.
* When the pain and swelling is gone (depending on the grade
Grade most commonly refers to:
* Grade (education), a measurement of a student's performance
* Grade, the number of the year a student has reached in a given educational stage
* Grade (slope), the steepness of a slope
Grade or grading may also ref ...
of the injury, 1–4 weeks), the patient can begin with an active healing process – containing squeezing putty clay or a stress ball. This can be combined with mild exercise, such as finger flexions, to ensure the finger will heal properly and better prepared for future stress. The use of heating pads and cold water baths are also mentioned in several sources in order to increase blood flow.
* The patient can gradually return to climbing while using prophylactic taping when climbing. There is some research supporting the use of taping, especially concerning bowstringing, but more research is needed. It is advised to spend the first weeks climbing relatively easy routes with big holds, good footholds and keeping sessions short. Stay away from overhangs and campus areas/boards.
* The patient can return to full-force climbing if easy climbing yields no pain. Continue taping (it will also serve as a mental note of the previous injury) and avoid tweaky crimps and pockets for several months, since complete tendon healing can take 100 days or more.
References
Climbing and health
Overuse injuries
Inflammations
Soft tissue disorders
Fingers
Ligaments
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