Chinoiserie In Fashion
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in fashion refers to the any use of elements in fashion, especially in American and European fashion. Since the 17th century, Chinese arts and aesthetic were sources of inspiration to European artists, creators, and fashion designers when goods from oriental countries were widely seen for the first time in Western Europe. Western was also often mixed with other exotic elements which were not all indigenous to China. Throughout its history, in fashion was sometimes a display of cultural appreciation; but at times, it was also associated with exoticism, Orientalism, cultural appropriation,
Western imperialism Imperialism is the state policy, practice, or advocacy of extending power and dominion, especially by direct territorial acquisition or by gaining political and economic control of other areas, often through employing hard power (economic and ...
, and
colonialism Colonialism is a practice or policy of control by one people or power over other people or areas, often by establishing colony, colonies and generally with the aim of economic dominance. In the process of colonisation, colonisers may impose the ...
, and
eroticism Eroticism () is a quality that causes sexual feelings, as well as a philosophical contemplation concerning the aesthetics of sexual desire, sensuality, and romantic love. That quality may be found in any form of artwork, including painting, sc ...
.


History


Pre-17th century

Luxury goods had been entering European countries from China since the ancient times. The early contacts of Europeans with China had also directly influenced their fashion. Silk from China, as well as textiles from India and Turkey were extremely popular among the European royalty. The art of
sericulture Sericulture, or silk farming, is the cultivation of silkworms to produce silk. Although there are several commercial species of silkworms, '' Bombyx mori'' (the caterpillar of the domestic silkmoth) is the most widely used and intensively stud ...
itself originated in China and was introduced in the West to the
Byzantine Empire The Byzantine Empire, also referred to as the Eastern Roman Empire or Byzantium, was the continuation of the Roman Empire primarily in its eastern provinces during Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages, when its capital city was Constantinopl ...
. The secret of sericulture was eventually
smuggled Smuggling is the illegal transportation of objects, substances, information or people, such as out of a house or buildings, into a prison, or across an international border, in violation of applicable laws or other regulations. There are various ...
out of China in the 6th century by the Byzatine empire, which then became an important component of the Byzantine industry and allowed the Byzantine empire to gain monopoly of silk in Europe. From the eleventh century, the art of sericulture was spread to Italy and to Southern France. However, the import of raw silk from China continued to remain significant. During the
Italian Renaissance The Italian Renaissance ( it, Rinascimento ) was a period in Italian history covering the 15th and 16th centuries. The period is known for the initial development of the broader Renaissance culture that spread across Europe and marked the trans ...
period (14th to 17th century), imperial China was seen as a refined civilization which was equal to Europe except for religion and as very advanced in terms of science, technology, architecture, and culture; as such, Italian elites would dress in Chinese fashion to show off their wealth. These Chinese influences in fashion were illusions created by Italian craftsmen who had started to produce in
Lucca Lucca ( , ) is a city and ''comune'' in Tuscany, Central Italy, on the Serchio River, in a fertile plain near the Ligurian Sea. The city has a population of about 89,000, while its province has a population of 383,957. Lucca is known as one ...
and had appropriated Chinese cultural symbols, such as the lotus flowers,
pomegranate The pomegranate (''Punica granatum'') is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punicoideae, that grows between tall. The pomegranate was originally described throughout the Mediterranean Basin, Mediterranean re ...
s,
peonies The peony or paeony is a flowering plant in the genus ''Paeonia'' , the only genus in the family Paeoniaceae . Peonies are native to Asia, Europe and Western North America. Scientists differ on the number of species that can be distinguished, ...
, florets, phoenixes and dragons. Chinese silk which was manufactured in China to fit European taste continued to be imported in Europe; this import increased even more in the late 17th century as direct maritime trade was established between China and Europe. The introduction of items, such as painted silk,
pearl A pearl is a hard, glistening object produced within the soft tissue (specifically the mantle) of a living shelled mollusk or another animal, such as fossil conulariids. Just like the shell of a mollusk, a pearl is composed of calcium carb ...
s, and
umbrella An umbrella or parasol is a folding canopy supported by wooden or metal ribs that is usually mounted on a wooden, metal, or plastic pole. It is designed to protect a person against rain or sunlight. The term ''umbrella'' is traditionally use ...
s, from China were also sped up in the 1400s through the sea routes. In the 16th century, Chinese brocades were exported from China to Europe to make the vestments of priests in Roman Catholic cathedrals.According to
British British may refer to: Peoples, culture, and language * British people, nationals or natives of the United Kingdom, British Overseas Territories, and Crown Dependencies. ** Britishness, the British identity and common culture * British English, ...
records dating to the late 19th century, gold foil was the ordinary form of precious metal which was used in embroidery and was a Chinese invention wherein Chinese people invented the process of laying a thin gold leaf on paper before rolling it around a silk thread. Chinese gold thread technology were later introduced the West and adopted by Italian weavers in their goldwork.


17th to 18th century

The 17th to 18th centuries,
Western fashion The following is a chronological list of articles covering the history of Western fashion—the story of the changing fashions in clothing in countries under influence of the Western world⁠—from the 5th century to the present. History of fa ...
was greatly enriched by the various items which were imported from the East which led to the introduction of new patterns and new possibilities in Western dress and was immediately imitated by mills found in England and France. As China was considered as the greatest empire in the 17th and 18th century, China and became in vogue in Europe; in this period, however, was the result of a conscious attempt in making "oriental culture" acceptable to the taste of Europeans.


17th century

In the 17th century, Chinese luxury items, such as Chinese textiles and porcelain, were introduced in Italian port cities, Portugal, England, and Holland; these items were what Europeans used to informed themselves about the customs and cultures of the East. Imported porcelain from China depicted how clothing was worn in China while Imported Chinese textiles led to fascination in Europe due to the technical skills found in the weaving, hand-painting, and needlework of Chinese silk. Chinese textiles were readily tailored into Western-style garments. The large amounts of imported Chinese patterned silk textiles in the Western-sphere also influenced the Europeans' perception of Chinese designs; this became known as . , however, was the result of the European's misunderstandings of authentic Chinese art and life. Not only did Europe imported Chinese textiles, but they also imitated Chinese textiles. Moreover, import of textiles from Asia by the East India companies in the late 17th and early 18th centuries influenced European designs creating a "bizarre style" as designs and motifs were blended into strange and familiar motifs and was influenced by and .


18th century

In the 18th century, China was tremendously popular in France, leading to what was referred as the "Oriental Renaissance" by Edgar Quinet in 1848. From this period and throughout the 19th century, was especially celebrated in France, and the origin of most Chinese-inspired fashion was French during this period. French Chinese fashion, which involved the wearing of
petticoat A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing, a type of undergarment worn under a skirt or a dress. Its precise meaning varies over centuries and between countries. According to the ''Oxford English Dictionary'', in current British En ...
s with frills, was also introduced in England where it became fashionable among British women; it is however unknown if British women were aware that they were wearing French Chinese fashion. This craze for China was also shared by England which also showed an obsession for Chinese culture objects in the 18th century. was also a popular theme in masquerade balls, and King Gustav III of Sweden was even dressed in Chinese robes by the Swedish royal family at some point in his lifetime when they were at the summer palace in
Drottningholm Drottningholm, literally "Queen's Islet", is a locality situated in Ekerö Municipality, Stockholm County, Sweden, with 398 inhabitants in 2010. It is on the island Lovön in lake Mälaren on the outskirts of Stockholm. Drottningholm Palace, the ...
. The craze for however started to wane in England in the second half of the eighteenth century and further receded in Europe during the 19th century.


19th century

As a result of Europe being at the wake of industrialization, and due to Europeans' perception that Chinese civilization was almost outdated following the first and the second Opium Wars lead to the decrease of popularity in Europe. However, this period was marked by an era of universal colonial exchanges and exposure to various categories found in Orient, such as textiles (e.g. silk) from China and Chinese dress elements (e.g. the precursor of the
cheongsam ''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often s ...
). Many items were looted from China and brought back to Europe during this period. The
Old Summer Palace The Old Summer Palace, also known as Yuanmingyuan () or Yuanmingyuan Park, originally called the Imperial Gardens (), and sometimes called the Winter Palace, was a complex of palaces and gardens in present-day Haidian District, Beijing, China. I ...
, known as () in Chinese, in particular, which was sacked by Anglo-French forces in 1860s gained the "''mythical status as a source of Chinese objects in the West''". From the looting of the
Old Summer Palace The Old Summer Palace, also known as Yuanmingyuan () or Yuanmingyuan Park, originally called the Imperial Gardens (), and sometimes called the Winter Palace, was a complex of palaces and gardens in present-day Haidian District, Beijing, China. I ...
, the French not only looted the imperial treasures, but also forced open the imperial warehouses stealing shiploads of clothing, jewellery, hats, and rolls of fabrics, amongst many other items. Looted items from the Old Summer Palace also flooded the markets of Britain; a cap which was said to have belonged to the Chinese emperor was presented to Queen Victoria, along with a pekingese dog, which became known as Looty. In Europe, these looted items were sometimes cut into a western-style clothing. At the end of the 19th century, British fashion had incorporated key elements from the construction design of Chinese clothing, including the use of wide sleeves and side closure. However, their passion of the British for had vanished. On the other hand, the 19th century was when was fully developed in America as a kind of "aesthetic
colonialism Colonialism is a practice or policy of control by one people or power over other people or areas, often by establishing colony, colonies and generally with the aim of economic dominance. In the process of colonisation, colonisers may impose the ...
" associating China with exoticism and fantasy, perceiving it as "a fantastic, uncivilized nation"; the upper classes, especially those in
New England New England is a region comprising six states in the Northeastern United States: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont. It is bordered by the state of New York (state), New York to the west and by the Can ...
and the
Middle Colonies The Middle Colonies were a subset of the Thirteen Colonies in British America, located between the New England Colonies and the Southern Colonies. Along with the Chesapeake Colonies, this area now roughly makes up the Mid-Atlantic states. Mu ...
, imitated e fashion; following their independence from Britain, they eventually ventured to China where they directly imported Chinese items. The late 1800s was thus marked with Westerner's fascination to the Far East, especially China and Japan, including in Canada. In the 1850s, there was a deliberate and self-conscious usage of Chinese materials and symbols in the design of dresses. Floral medallions, for example, were used on dresses as they were characteristics of China. A second wave of looted items from the suppression of the Boxer uprising (1899–1901) also made its way to Britain. During the suppression of the Boxer Uprising, many places were looted including many pawnshops in Beijing were looted. Clothing items by far were the largest-volume trade in these pawnshops, but they also had other items of value, such as jewellery, watches, furniture, rickshaws, and musical instrument; these items were personal items of Beijing commoners who had exchange their personal items for a small sum of money and intended to redeem their items later when they would be in better financial times. Wearing Chinese clothing at home in the West was not deemed as being done out of frivolity or fancy, but was itself an imperial act which signified having worldly knowledge.


20th century

In the early 20th century, European and fashion designers would use China and other countries outside of the Eurocentric-fashion world to seek inspiration;
Vogue Magazine ''Vogue'' is an American monthly fashion and lifestyle magazine that covers many topics, including haute couture fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Based at One World Trade Center in the Financial District of Lower Manhattan, ''Vogu ...
also acknowledged that China had contributed to the aesthetic inspiration to global fashion. Chinese motifs regrew popular in European fashion during this period. China and the Chinese people also supplied the materials and aesthetics to American fashion and influenced global fashion; however, they remained perceived as being fashion-less and did not fit the criteria of modern status. For example, in the early 1900s,
Vogue magazine ''Vogue'' is an American monthly fashion and lifestyle magazine that covers many topics, including haute couture fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Based at One World Trade Center in the Financial District of Lower Manhattan, ''Vogu ...
encouraged people to buy beautifully embroidered Chinese garments made of high quality silk in Chinatowns, which were sold as cheap items in America; however, many of these items were actually
looted Looting is the act of stealing, or the taking of goods by force, typically in the midst of a military, political, or other social crisis, such as war, natural disasters (where law and civil enforcement are temporarily ineffective), or rioting. ...
items from Beijing during the suppression of the Boxer Uprising. From the 1910s in the United Kingdoms, Chinese robes, which were perceived as being only suitable as a fancy or luxurious dress or a source of embroidery pieces, started to be worn by British women as a form of loose coats.


1920s to 1930s

The 1920s was marked by the return of a great craze for . Genuine embroidered Chinese jackets and coats were worn as evening wear. The loose fitting cut of British women garments in the 1920s also reflects the influence of Chinese clothing. The
cheongsam ''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often s ...
was created in the 1920s and was turned into a high-style evening wear when it was appropriated by the West. By the 1930s, the cheongsam was associated with Chinese dress and was used in Hollywood movies as the identifying clothing of Chinese women. When worn by Asian Hollywood stars, such as Anna May Wong, the sexualized version cheongsam was turned into a symbol of the exotic and erotic nightlife in Shanghai.


1940s to end of 20th century

In the mid-20th century, influenced the designs of great designers and/or couturiers, such as Christian Dior and Yves Saint-Laurent. On 23 February 1981, Princess Diana wore a red coloured silk, midi Chinese skirt known as when she posed with Prince Charles at
Clarence House Clarence House is a royal residence on The Mall in the City of Westminster, London. It was built in 1825–1827, adjacent to St James's Palace, for the Duke of Clarence, the future king William IV. Over the years, it has undergone much exten ...
prior to their official engagement announcement. This Chinese skirt was in the Qing dynasty style and was embroidered with chrysanthemum embroidery motifs. and had a red waistband. The use of auspicious red colour was in line with Chinese wedding tradition; however, the skirt was not considered fully auspicious according to Chinese beliefs as it lacked a white waistband instead of a red one. A with white waistband was usually worn by Chinese bride to symbolize: "to grow old together", which Princess Diana lacked; and thus, Princess Diana's was did not conform to the () and was instead considered (), a sign of bad omen.


21st century

fashion continues to appears in the work of fashion designers and directive creators of luxury brands in the 21st century. For instances, appeared have been a key seasonal influence to Louis Vuitton Spring/ Summer 2011 collections; for example, with the use of brisé fan by Marc Jacobs, etc. The Valentino Fall/Winter 2015–2016 depicted the use of colourful Chinese motifs, such as lion's heads, flowers, plants, in the embroidery work on their clothing and handbags, which were described as "reinterpretations of symbols representing human qualities and spiritual values" by the Magazine Vogue.


Designers

Some famous fashion designers and/or creative directors, who are known to have adopted or incorporated aesthetics at some point in their fashion collection, include Mariano Fortuny, the
Callot Soeurs Callot Soeurs () was one of the leading fashion design houses of the 1910s and 1920s. Origins Callot Soeurs opened in 1895 at 24, rue Taitbout in Paris, France. It was operated by the four Callot sisters: Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Be ...
who were known for their usage of Chinese silks, Chinese-style embroideries, had Orientalism as their favourite theme, Jean Paquin, Paul Poiret,
Jeanne Lanvin Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (; 1 January 1867 – 6 July 1946) was a French haute couture fashion designer. She founded the Lanvin fashion house and the beauty and perfume company Lanvin Parfums. Early life Jeanne Lanvin was born in Paris on 1 Janua ...
,
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses a ...
, Yves Saint-Laurent,
Alexander McQueen Lee Alexander McQueen CBE (17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010) was a British fashion designer and couturier. He founded his own Alexander McQueen label in 1992, and was chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. His achievements in fashion ...
,
John Galliano John Charles Galliano (born 28 November 1960) is a British fashion designer from Gibraltar. He was the creative director of his eponymous label John Galliano and French fashion houses Givenchy and Dior. Since 2014, Galliano has been the creat ...
,
Tom Ford Thomas Carlyle Ford (born August 27, 1961) is an American fashion designer and filmmaker. He launched his eponymous luxury brand in 2005, having previously served as the creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. Ford wrote and directe ...
, and
Maria Grazia Chiuri Maria Grazia Chiuri (; born February 2, 1964) is an Italian fashion designer. After stints working at Fendi and Valentino, Chiuri was named creative director at Dior. Biography Her maternal grandfather died during the Second World War, leaving he ...
. continues to appears in fashion creation in present-days. Luxury fashion brands such as,
Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Malletier, commonly known as Louis Vuitton (, ), is a French high-end Luxury goods, luxury fashion house and company founded in 1854 by Louis Vuitton (designer), Louis Vuitton. The label's LV monogram appears on most of its produc ...
,
Dior Christian Dior SE (), commonly known as Dior (stylized DIOR), is a French Luxury goods, luxury fashion house controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH, the world's largest luxury group. Dior itself holds ...
, and
Chanel Chanel ( , ) is a French high-end luxury fashion house founded in 1910 by Coco Chanel in Paris. Chanel specializes in women's ready-to-wear, luxury goods, and accessories and licenses its name and branding to Luxottica for eyewear. Chanel is ...
, etc., were also inspired by Chinese art and aesthetics, these influences are sometimes reflected in their creation of colours and the patterns found on their fabrics.


Christian Dior

Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses a ...
, who had never travelled to China, especially celebrated Chinese aesthetics since the 1947; Chinese aesthetics in his design collections were influenced by Chinese overcoats and have been inspired by the "exotic" () home decor of his childhood; throughout the 1960s, Dior used various cultural references to China, such as
Chinese calligraphy Chinese calligraphy is the writing of Chinese characters as an art form, combining purely visual art and interpretation of the literary meaning. This type of expression has been widely practiced in China and has been generally held in high est ...
, the silhouette of the
cheongsam ''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often s ...
, and the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, t= ), or Tang Empire, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907 AD, with an Zhou dynasty (690–705), interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dyn ...
blue and white porcelain "Blue and white pottery" () covers a wide range of white pottery and porcelain decorated under the glaze with a blue pigment, generally cobalt oxide. The decoration is commonly applied by hand, originally by brush painting, but nowadays by sten ...
in various of his collections.


Yves Saint-Laurent

Like Christian Dior, Yves Saint-Laurent was very inspired by Chinese culture although he never visited China; this is also reflected in his 1977's collection "":


Sources of fashion inspiration


Chinese auspicious ornaments and textile

The most visible form of is through the appropriation of Chinese decorative (and auspicious) motifs and styles. During the
Italian Renaissance The Italian Renaissance ( it, Rinascimento ) was a period in Italian history covering the 15th and 16th centuries. The period is known for the initial development of the broader Renaissance culture that spread across Europe and marked the trans ...
, Italian craftsmen appropriated Chinese cultural and auspicious symbols, such as the lotus flowers,
pomegranate The pomegranate (''Punica granatum'') is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punicoideae, that grows between tall. The pomegranate was originally described throughout the Mediterranean Basin, Mediterranean re ...
s,
peonies The peony or paeony is a flowering plant in the genus ''Paeonia'' , the only genus in the family Paeoniaceae . Peonies are native to Asia, Europe and Western North America. Scientists differ on the number of species that can be distinguished, ...
,
florets This glossary of botanical terms is a list of definitions of terms and concepts relevant to botany and plants in general. Terms of plant morphology are included here as well as at the more specific Glossary of plant morphology and Glossary o ...
, phoenixes and
dragons A dragon is a reptilian legendary creature that appears in the folklore of many cultures worldwide. Beliefs about dragons vary considerably through regions, but dragons in western cultures since the High Middle Ages have often been depicted as ...
in their textiles which were then used in fashionable dressmaking for the wealthy Italian social class. Chinese motifs also grew in popularity in European fashion in the 20th century.


Textile obtained through imperialistic appropriation

Dragon robe A dragon is a reptilian legendary creature that appears in the folklore of many cultures worldwide. Beliefs about dragons vary considerably through regions, but dragons in western cultures since the High Middle Ages have often been depicted as ...
s (and python robes) of the Qing dynasty were highly regulated by the Qing dynasty's
Sumptuary law Sumptuary laws (from Latin ''sūmptuāriae lēgēs'') are laws that try to regulate consumption. '' Black's Law Dictionary'' defines them as "Laws made for the purpose of restraining luxury or extravagance, particularly against inordinate expendi ...
s and court and the workshops and storehouses were managed by the Qing Imperial Household Department. They were also typically bestowed by the Qing dynasty court to important people within the Qing Empire boundaries, such as Mongolia and
Tibet Tibet (; ''Böd''; ) is a region in East Asia, covering much of the Tibetan Plateau and spanning about . It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people. Also resident on the plateau are some other ethnic groups such as Monpa people, ...
as diplomatic gifts, who were allowed to cut and adapt to fit their own customs. In fashion of the early 20th century, the
Dragon robe A dragon is a reptilian legendary creature that appears in the folklore of many cultures worldwide. Beliefs about dragons vary considerably through regions, but dragons in western cultures since the High Middle Ages have often been depicted as ...
s (and python robes) were at times cut and converted into Western-style attire, such as banyan and waistcoat; however, the direct alterations of Chinese garments for the use of Westerners are sometimes regarded as "imperialistic appropriation". Some of these adapted dragon robe clothing were possibly fabric rolls and/or clothing looted from the
Old Summer Palace The Old Summer Palace, also known as Yuanmingyuan () or Yuanmingyuan Park, originally called the Imperial Gardens (), and sometimes called the Winter Palace, was a complex of palaces and gardens in present-day Haidian District, Beijing, China. I ...
contrary to what museum donors sometimes wish explain about their origins. During the Opium wars, the use of Chinese dragons robes by Europeans in the late Victorian Europe were sometimes used to mock Chinese masculinity; for example, George Smith in the painting ''The Rightful Heir'', exhibited in 1874 in the Royal Academy, would paint the villain found in the painting wearing a Chinese dragon robe tied with a belt around the waist with slippers on his feet. In similar instances, Liberty in 1898 offered evening
cape A cape is a clothing accessory or a sleeveless outer garment which drapes the wearer's back, arms, and chest, and connects at the neck. History Capes were common in medieval Europe, especially when combined with a hood in the chaperon. Th ...
s which were advertised as being made of "Mandarin robes" (i.e. Qing dynasty court dress); however, these capes were actually made of
Han Chinese The Han Chinese () or Han people (), are an East Asian ethnic group native to China. They constitute the world's largest ethnic group, making up about 18% of the global population and consisting of various subgroups speaking distinctive va ...
women's traditional
skirts A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards. At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of fabric (such as pareos). However, most skirts are fi ...
. In 1981,


Blue and white porcelain

The combination of blue and white colour is one of the most popular colour palette combination in history and originated from Asian ceramics of the 9th century. Chinese
blue and white porcelain "Blue and white pottery" () covers a wide range of white pottery and porcelain decorated under the glaze with a blue pigment, generally cobalt oxide. The decoration is commonly applied by hand, originally by brush painting, but nowadays by sten ...
, which was developed since the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, t= ), or Tang Empire, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907 AD, with an Zhou dynasty (690–705), interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dyn ...
and fully matured in
Yuan dynasty The Yuan dynasty (), officially the Great Yuan (; xng, , , literally "Great Yuan State"), was a Mongol-led imperial dynasty of China and a successor state to the Mongol Empire after its division. It was established by Kublai, the fifth ...
, and are one of the most nationalistic arts of China, often appears in modern
fashion show A fashion show ( French ''défilé de mode'') is an event put on by a fashion designer to showcase their upcoming line of clothing and/or accessories during a fashion week. Fashion shows debut every season, particularly the Spring/Summer and Fa ...
s. This colour palette found in ceramics later spread in Europe and influenced the
Delftware Delftware or Delft pottery, also known as Delft Blue ( nl, Delfts blauw) or as delf, is a general term now used for Dutch tin-glazed earthenware, a form of faience. Most of it is blue and white pottery, and the city of Delft in the Netherland ...
in the 16th century and
Willow pattern The Willow pattern is a distinctive and elaborate chinoiserie pattern used on ceramic tableware. It became popular at the end of the 18th century in England when, in its standard form, it was developed by English ceramic artists combining an ...
created by British manufacturers in the later 18th century; the 18th century was also the era when printed fabrics such as blue and white
Toile de Jouy Toile (French for "canvas") is a textile fabric comparable to fine batiste with a cloth weave. Natural silk or chemical fiber filaments are usually used as materials. The word ''toile'' can refer to the fabric itself or to a test garment sewn ...
gained popularity and inspired fashion designers to use the blue and white as a prominent colour palette in the coming year. It was thus adopted in fashion designs of garments and shoes of famous fashion designers, such as
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses a ...
, Valentino,
Dr Martens Dr. Martens, also commonly known as Doc Martens, Docs or DMs, is a German-founded British footwear and clothing brand, headquartered in Wollaston in the Wellingborough district of Northamptonshire, England. Although famous for its footwear, D ...
. Some modern fashion designers, such as
Roberto Cavalli Roberto Cavalli (; born 15 November 1940) is an Italian fashion designer and inventor. He is known for exotic prints and for creating the sand-blasted look for jeans. The high-end Italian fashion house Roberto Cavalli sells luxury clothing, perfu ...
,
Guo Pei Guo Pei (, , born 1967) is a PRC Chinese fashion designer. She is best known for designing dresses for Chinese celebrities, and in America for Rihanna's trailing yellow gown at the 2015 Met Gala. Guo is the first born-and-raised Asian designer to ...
, were also directly inspired by Chinese blue and white porcelain.


Adoption of Chinese garments, clothing elements, and construction

British fashion had incorporated key elements from the construction design of Chinese clothing, including the use of wide sleeves and side closure; these designs were then adapted to meet the aesthetic tastes of Europeans. Chinese fashion also influenced various designs and styles of . The design of wrap-style closure or neckline, known as () in China, in European garments was the results of the heavy influences of Orientalism which was popular in the 19th century. Chinese jackets with wrap closure also influenced American fashion in the early 1900s; an example of such jacket is the (#4777), which appeared in American women's magazine,
The Delineator ''The Delineator'' was an American women's magazine of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, founded by the Butterick Publishing Company in 1869 under the name ''The Metropolitan Monthly.'' Its name was changed in 1875. The magazine was publis ...
, in 1901. In volume 57, The Delineator described it as being "Ladies' Chinese dressing" or as a "Lounging sack", and as having "a strong suggestion of the Orient". The was designed to be loose-fitting, a wrap closure on the left side (known as in China) which closes with satin ribbon ties; it also featured deep side vents, which was considered as being a "novel effect", and was trimmed with a single band creating a fancy outline. The of Volume 57 (#4777) reappeared in Volume 58 of The Delineator along with another Chinese-style inspired wrap top (#3920), one of which closed on the right side (known as in China) with a single ribbon. The Ladies' Chinese dressing sac #3920 appeared at least a year earlier and was published in Volume 56 of The Delineator of 1900. In the 1910s, Euro-American women showed women in Chinese robes used as loose evening coats over dresses. Among the items which were advertised by Vogue in its 15 December 1911 publication, there was the , which composed of the a type of Chinese jackets, and the Qing dynasty-style , a traditional skirt of the Han Chinese. There was also a fashion trend for day-wear jackets and coats to be cut in styles which would suggest various Chinese items as was published the ''Ladies’ Home Journal'' in June 1913. According to the ''Ladies’ Home Journal'' of June 1913, volume 30, issue 6: Garments displayed from ''The Chinese Summer Dress'' published in the ''Ladies’ Home Journal'' of June 1913, volume 30, issue 6, show influences of the Qing dynasty mandarin court gown, especially the (a mandarin court dress with a mandarin square badge), the , , , , (a short waist-length
overskirt An overskirt is a type of women's short skirt which is draped over another garment, such as a skirt, breeches, or trousers. Although peplum is often used as another term for overskirt, it should not be confused with the ''peplos'' or "peplum dress ...
), (collar in Qing dynasty court dress), and (Manchu women dresses), and , as well as traditional Chinese embroideries, and traditional Chinese , ,
Mandarin collar A mandarin collar, standing collar, band collar or choker collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. The style derives its Western name from the mandarin bureaucrats in Qing-era China that employed it as part of th ...
s, etc. There are also photographic evidences of Chinese robes being used outside its wearer's home as fashion items with little or no adaption from the 1920s. The loosening of women's fashion found in the 1920s loose-fitting fashion, especially the disappearance of nipped-in corset, appears to have also been influenced by the loose lines and roomy armholes of the traditional Chinese robes and jackets along with other factors, such as the experience of freedoms of elite women at that time, the sportswear-designs of Chanel, and the garment designs by Paul Poiret who designed Middle-Eastern inspired garments.


Cheongsam

The
cheongsam ''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often s ...
was created in the 1920s and was originally a symbol of women emancipation in China; when it was appropriated by the West, it was turned into a high-style evening wear. In the 21st century, some evening dresses designed by
Tom Ford Thomas Carlyle Ford (born August 27, 1961) is an American fashion designer and filmmaker. He launched his eponymous luxury brand in 2005, having previously served as the creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. Ford wrote and directe ...
showed the influences of the sexualized version
cheongsam ''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often s ...
in terms of cut and the imperial five-clawed Chinese
dragon robe A dragon is a reptilian legendary creature that appears in the folklore of many cultures worldwide. Beliefs about dragons vary considerably through regions, but dragons in western cultures since the High Middle Ages have often been depicted as ...
s in terms of use of colour (e.g. imperial yellow) and Chinese motifs (such as , , and the Twelve Ornaments), as well as the Manchu's horsehoof cuffs.


Chinese shawls

Chinese
shawl A shawl (from fa, شال ''shāl'',) is a simple item of clothing from Kashmir, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular or square piece of cloth, which is often folded ...
s were popular among European elite style leaders in the early 20th century. However, in a report dating to 1921 written by Vogue, it was referred as Spanish shawls, and readers were informed that these shawls were imported from Venice, Spain, Persia, and the Philippines, while omitting the initial Chinese importation of these shawls when earlier importers of Chinese goods and other travellers to China were key sources for these shawls twenty years prior to the publication of the report. The Spanish shawls, also known as
Manila shawl The Manila shawl (Spanish language, Spanish: ''mantón de Manila'' or ''mantón de seda'') is an Embroidery, embroidered silk shawl derived from the Filipino people, Filipino pañuelo. They were popular in the Philippines, Latin America and Spain ...
s and ''mantón de Manila'', have become traditional accessory for women in Spain and Latin America and is also a crucial feature in
Flamenco dance Flamenco (), in its strictest sense, is an art form based on the various folkloric music traditions of southern Spain, developed within the gitano subculture of the region of Andalusia, and also having historical presence in Extremadura and ...
costume. The term ''Manila shawl'' itself is a
misnomer A misnomer is a name that is incorrectly or unsuitably applied. Misnomers often arise because something was named long before its correct nature was known, or because an earlier form of something has been replaced by a later form to which the name ...
, which appeared when the America-European people got confused concerning the origins and provenance of the shawl, thus leading to a misattribution to the Philippines. These shawls of Chinese origins then became identified with Spanish ladies. The Chinese shawls were manufactured in
Guangdong province Guangdong (, ), alternatively romanized as Canton or Kwangtung, is a coastal province in South China on the north shore of the South China Sea. The capital of the province is Guangzhou. With a population of 126.01 million (as of 2020) ...
, China and were then introduced in Mexico and Spain from the seaport of Manila, which was where goods from Asia (including various forms of items manufactured in Guangdong) could be exported to Mexico and Europe. These shawls became a popular fashion accessory for women in Spain and Latin America after the year 1821. The demand for these Chinese shawls grew so much that it led to an increase in production from Chinese factories; and simultaneously, local embroiderers from Spain started to embroider their own. Despite the emerging local production in Spain, a large amount of ''Manila shawls'' continued to be manufactured in China for the sole purpose of the export market. The popularity of these shawls (which were actually still being produced in China) in the 19th century Europe eventually resulted in the adoption of the Chinese shawls in the traditional Spanish clothing attire. With time and through various form cultural exchanges with other cultures, the Spanish shawls developed into its current style through the exposure and interaction of different cultures.


Chinese shoes

Chinese shoes have influenced the design of European slippers with turned-up toes and with small low heels of the late 1880s. In the early 20th century, Chinese slippers, which were manufactured in China for American trade, were exported and sold in American stores; however, the fine grade Chinese slippers were never sold to Chinese people in America instead they were sold to American women as boudoir shoes.On the other hand, local Chinese shoe companies in America would mainly sell shoes to Chinese people.


Controversies


Lack of fashion myth, Western Imperialism, and Orientalism

Though Chinese fashions had a global influence, the Chinese themselves were still perceived as being fashion-less when they did not fit the criteria of fashionable modernity. Europeans had visited imperial China since the 1500s at the times of the
Ming dynasty The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
and the difference of fashion was one of the first thing that they noticed. "Clothing never changed in China" became a myth constructed by early European writers and foreign sojourners who visited Imperial China but lacked knowledge on Chinese fashion of the previous decades. European writers at least since the 18th century, such as
Jean-Baptiste Du Halde Jean-Baptiste Du Halde (; 1 February 1674 – 18 August 1743) was a French Jesuit historian specializing in China. He did not travel to China, but collected seventeen Jesuit missionaries' reports and provided an encyclopedic survey of the histo ...
,
Fernand Braudel Fernand Braudel (; 24 August 1902 – 27 November 1985) was a French historian and leader of the Annales School. His scholarship focused on three main projects: ''The Mediterranean'' (1923–49, then 1949–66), ''Civilization and Capitalism'' ...
, had held opinions that China had a static fashion. However, the descriptions of Chinese fashion by Europeans from the 16th to the 18th centuries were mainly based on their perceptions of the Chinese clothing that they saw, instead of describing Chinese garments itself. In the 18th century,
Jean-Baptiste Du Halde Jean-Baptiste Du Halde (; 1 February 1674 – 18 August 1743) was a French Jesuit historian specializing in China. He did not travel to China, but collected seventeen Jesuit missionaries' reports and provided an encyclopedic survey of the histo ...
, for example, had identified fashion as being a key difference between Europe and ancient China is the lack of changing fashion in China in his publications:Du Halde's claims of the static fashion of China was later circulated along with his publications and consolidated the belief that Chinese people dressed in fashion-less robes in the imagination of the Europeans. Ironically, Du Halde actually never went to Imperial China; however, to strengthen the veracity of his claims, Du Halde paired these images of engravings of Chinese with exhaustive descriptions of Chinese customs and relied on the accounts of other Jesuit missionaries. Similar accounts continued to appear at different point of time.
Western Imperialism Imperialism is the state policy, practice, or advocacy of extending power and dominion, especially by direct territorial acquisition or by gaining political and economic control of other areas, often through employing hard power (economic and ...
also often accompanied Orientalism, and European imperialism was especially at its highest in the 19th century. In the 19th century time, Europeans described China in binary opposition to Europe, describing China as "lacking in fashion" among many other things, while Europeans deliberately placed themselves in a superior position when they would compare themselves to the Chinese as well as to other countries in Asia:Works by Europeans writers which were influenced by Orientalist ideas would depict China as lacking fashion and by extension construct China as a static and unchanging nation. Compared to the Chinese, the Europeans would therefore describe themselves as "not superstitious, backwards, unhygienic, effeminate, or slavish".
Foot binding Foot binding, or footbinding, was the Chinese custom of breaking and tightly binding the feet of young girls in order to change their shape and size. Feet altered by footbinding were known as lotus feet, and the shoes made for these feet were kno ...
, in particular, fuelled the imaginations of the Europeans and the Americans who perceived China as being "a mysterious, exotic, and barbaric Orient" where bound feet of the Chinese women became a representative of the "Chinese barbarity" and as signs of women oppression. Similar ideas were also applied to other countries in the East Asia, in India, and Middle East, where the perceived lack of fashion were associated with offensive remarks on the Asian social and political systems:


Accusation of cultural appropriation and plagiarism

2022 # Mamianqun and new Dior skirt from fall 2022 collection: In July 2022, Dior first was accused of cultural appropriation and design plagiarism of the traditional Han Chinese skirt, . # Dior was accused of cultural appropriation for a second time in July 2022 for due to its usage of pattern print which looks like the (), into its 2022 autumn and winter ready-to-wear collection and has been introduced as being Dior's signature motif which was inspired by
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses a ...
's wall murals. The is a traditional Chinese painting theme which belong to the Chinese scholar-artist style in
Chinese painting Chinese painting () is one of the oldest continuous artistic traditions in the world. Painting in the traditional style is known today in Chinese as ''guó huà'' (), meaning "national painting" or "native painting", as opposed to Western style ...
and originated in the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, t= ), or Tang Empire, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907 AD, with an Zhou dynasty (690–705), interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dyn ...
.


Related content

* Korea: Chinese influences on Korean clothing * Japan:
Kimono The is a traditional Japanese garment and the national dress of Japan. The kimono is a wrapped-front garment with square sleeves and a rectangular body, and is worn left side wrapped over right, unless the wearer is deceased. The kimono ...
,
Ryusou ( ryu, ウチナースガイ/沖繩姿), also known as ( ja, 琉装りゅうそう, also written as ) and referred as in Okinawan, is the traditional dress of the Ryukyuan people. is a form of formal attire; it is customary to wear it on occ ...


See also

* Fashion *
Chinese clothing Chinese clothing includes both the traditional hanfu and modern variations of indigenous Chinese dress as recorded by the artifacts and some traditional arts of Chinese culture. Chinese clothing has been shaped through its dynastic traditions, as ...
:
Hanfu ''Hanfu'' () is the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an upper-body garment with a long outer skirt), the (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt ...
,
Qizhuang (), also known as () and commonly referred as Manchu clothing in English, is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people. in the broad sense refers to the clothing system of the Manchu people, which includes their whole system of attire us ...
,
cheongsam ''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often s ...
* Major historical events in Chinese fashion history:
Tifayifu Tifayifu () is an edict policy which took place in the Qing dynasty in 1645 when Han Chinese people (more specifically adult living men, who did not fall in the stipulated exceptions) were forced to follow Manchu hairstyle and Manchu clothing. In ...
; Hanfu Movement


Gallery

File:Curious, c. 1870, by Alfred Stevens. Nationalmuseum, Stockholm, Sweden.jpg, alt= File:Met China Looking Glass 4.jpg, alt= File:Diane von Fürstenberg Spring-Summer 2014 18.jpg,
Wrap dress A dress (also known as a frock or a gown) is a garment traditionally worn by women or girls consisting of a skirt with an attached bodice (or a matching bodice giving the effect of a one-piece garment). It consists of a top piece that covers ...
File:Brise Fan LACMA M.78.108.10.jpg, fan, China, c.1800
File:Qing Dynasty Portrait of a civil official.jpg, alt=, A bufu, a mandarin court robe, with piling over the shoulders, Civil official of Qing dynasty, mid-18th century File:MET DP14333.jpg, alt=, Piling collar, worn in the court robe of the Qing dynasty File:Habit of a lady of China in 1700. Dame Chinoise (NYPL b14140320-1638051).tiff, alt=, Inaccurate depiction of a lady in China, from the book "A collection of the dresses of different nations, ancient and modern", 1700, Qing dynasty period File:Chinese migrants in the Philippines (aoqun).png, alt=, Jiaoling youren yi with
mamianqun Mamianqun (), also known as (), sometimes simply referred as 'apron' (), a generic term in English to refer to any Chinese-style skirt, or 'paired apron' in English although they are not aprons as defined in the dictionary, is a type of (), ...
with pleats, Hanfu, from the
Boxer Codex The ''Boxer Codex'' is a late sixteenth century Spanish manuscript that was produced in the Philippines. The document contains seventy-five colored illustrations of the peoples of China, the Philippines, Java, the Moluccas, the Ladrones, and Sia ...
, 1500 File:MET 46 190 O1.jpg, alt=, A style of kanjia/ majia, a traditional vest, Qing dynasty, 19th century File:Kinesiska figurer från 1800-talet - Hallwylska museet - 95991.tif, alt=,
Chang'ao Chang-ao (), lit. translated as "long jacket" or "long ''ao''", is a historical long-length, Chinese upper garment called ''ao'' (袄), which was worn by women. It is also known as ''da ao'' (大袄) and ''chang ru'' (长襦; long ''ru'' jacket) ...
and
mamianqun Mamianqun (), also known as (), sometimes simply referred as 'apron' (), a generic term in English to refer to any Chinese-style skirt, or 'paired apron' in English although they are not aprons as defined in the dictionary, is a type of (), ...
with pleats, sash, and yunjian (collar), a popular style of Hanfu in the Ming to Qing dynasty, 18th century. File:Tangyin7big.jpg, alt=,
Ruqun (;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment a ...
with yaoqun and traditional
Lào zi (), also called (), is an ancient appellation for knots in China. In ancient Chinese literature, the actually refers to what is now known as () in Chinese and Chinese knotting in English. The term "Chinese knotting" only became known in re ...
(decorative Chinese knot), Hanfu File:MET DP372025.jpg, alt=, A style of kanjia/ majia, a traditional vest, Qing dynasty, 19th century File:Chinese - Lady with Mirror - Walters 359.jpg, alt=,
Ruqun (;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment a ...
,
Hanfu ''Hanfu'' () is the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an upper-body garment with a long outer skirt), the (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt ...
, Qing dynasty, 18th century. File:HK Sheung Wan 犘羅上街 Upper Lascar Row Chinese clothing in art May-2012 (Qing dynasty-style aoqun).JPG, alt=, Qing dynasty-style aoqun, consisting of ao and mamianqun with gore, traditional
Hanfu ''Hanfu'' () is the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an upper-body garment with a long outer skirt), the (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt ...
. File:Chinese Blue Ladies Jacket QM r.jpg, alt=, Example of gua jacket worn by Chinese women, Qing dynasty File:HK WCN 灣仔北 Wan Chai North 香港會議展覽中心 HKCEC 中國嘉德國際拍賣 China Guardian Autumn Auctions preview October 2021 SS2 078.jpg, alt=, Chenyi, Manchu women robe, Qing dynasty File:寿安寿恩两公主.jpg, alt=, Changyi, Manchu women robe, Qing dynasty File:China, late 19th century - han Woman's Jacket - 1956.311 - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif, alt=, Han Chinese women's ao with integrated
yunjian (), also known as Cloud collar in English and sometimes referred as châr-qâb, is a Chinese term which can either to a four-lobed motif (more rarely an 8-lobed motif), or to a traditional Chinese garment accessory item in , the Traditional cl ...
appliqué at the collar, Qing dynasty, late 19th century File:Collar (AM 8552-1).jpg, alt=,
Yunjian (), also known as Cloud collar in English and sometimes referred as châr-qâb, is a Chinese term which can either to a four-lobed motif (more rarely an 8-lobed motif), or to a traditional Chinese garment accessory item in , the Traditional cl ...
, a collar used by Han Chinese women, Qing dynasty File:Honggaitou and blue yunjian (wedding attire).jpg, Restoration of a blue
Yunjian (), also known as Cloud collar in English and sometimes referred as châr-qâb, is a Chinese term which can either to a four-lobed motif (more rarely an 8-lobed motif), or to a traditional Chinese garment accessory item in , the Traditional cl ...
embellished with fringes as part of the traditional Chinese wedding of the 19th century, Folk Customs Museum, Luoyang, China File:MET LC-1975 411 3 sr1-001.jpg, Imperial dragon robes, Qing dynasty File:Dragon robes sea-waves decoration 17th century.jpg, Manchu's Horsehoofs cuffs decorated with xiangyun,
lishui Lishui (; Lishuinese: ''li⁶ syu³'' ) is a prefecture-level city in the southwest of Zhejiang province, People's Republic of China. It borders Quzhou, Jinhua and Taizhou to the north, Wenzhou to the southeast, and the province of Fujian to ...
, woshui, floral medaillon, and hongfu (red bats). File:Purple qipao at The Quintessence of Silk, Gongmei Emporium (20220105183110).jpg, A style of Chinese
Cheongsam ''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often see ...
File:The YEN YEN Qing Dynasty Chinese Vase.png, Chinese Blue and White porcelaine


Notes

{{Reflist, group=note


References

Aesthetics Fashion aesthetics Concepts in aesthetics Cultural trends History of clothing