Changdeokgung (
Hangul
The Korean alphabet, known as Hangul, . Hangul may also be written as following South Korea's standard Romanization. ( ) in South Korea and Chosŏn'gŭl in North Korea, is the modern official writing system for the Korean language. The let ...
: 창덕궁,
Hanja
Hanja (Hangul: ; Hanja: , ), alternatively known as Hancha, are Chinese characters () used in the writing of Korean. Hanja was used as early as the Gojoseon period, the first ever Korean kingdom.
(, ) refers to Sino-Korean vocabulary, wh ...
: 昌德宮; literally, "The Palace of Prospering Virtue"), also known as Changdeokgung Palace or Changdeok Palace, is set within a large park in
Jongno District
Bosingak bell pavilion
Jongno District () is a district () in central Seoul, South Korea. It takes its name from a major local street, Jongno, which means "Bell Road".
Characteristics
Jongno District has been the center of the city for 600 yea ...
,
Seoul
Seoul (; ; ), officially known as the Seoul Special City, is the capital and largest metropolis of South Korea.Before 1972, Seoul was the ''de jure'' capital of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) as stated iArticle 103 ...
,
South Korea
South Korea, officially the Republic of Korea (ROK), is a country in East Asia, constituting the southern part of the Korea, Korean Peninsula and sharing a Korean Demilitarized Zone, land border with North Korea. Its western border is formed ...
. It is one of the "
Five Grand Palaces
5 is a number, numeral, and glyph.
5, five or number 5 may also refer to:
* AD 5, the fifth year of the AD era
* 5 BC, the fifth year before the AD era
Literature
* ''5'' (visual novel), a 2008 visual novel by Ram
* ''5'' (comics), an awa ...
" built by the kings of the
Joseon dynasty
Joseon (; ; Middle Korean: 됴ᇢ〯션〮 Dyǒw syéon or 됴ᇢ〯션〯 Dyǒw syěon), officially the Great Joseon (; ), was the last dynastic kingdom of Korea, lasting just over 500 years. It was founded by Yi Seong-gye in July 1392 and re ...
(1392–1897). As it is located east of
Gyeongbok Palace
Gyeongbokgung (), also known as Gyeongbokgung Palace or Gyeongbok Palace, was the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty. Built in 1395, it is located in northern Seoul, South Korea. The largest of the '' Five Grand Palaces'' built by the Joseo ...
, Changdeokgung—along with
Changgyeonggung
Changgyeong Palace is a palace located in Seoul, South Korea.
The palace was built in the mid-15th century by King Sejong for his father, Taejong. It was originally named "Suganggung", but it was renovated and enlarged in 1483 by King Seongjon ...
—is also referred to as the "East Palace" (동궐, 東闕, ''Donggwol'').
Changdeokgung was the most favored palace of many
Joseon
Joseon (; ; Middle Korean: 됴ᇢ〯션〮 Dyǒw syéon or 됴ᇢ〯션〯 Dyǒw syěon), officially the Great Joseon (; ), was the last dynastic kingdom of Korea, lasting just over 500 years. It was founded by Yi Seong-gye in July 1392 and re ...
kings and retained many elements dating from the
Three Kingdoms of Korea
Samhan or the Three Kingdoms of Korea () refers to the three kingdoms of Goguryeo (고구려, 高句麗), Baekje (백제, 百濟), and Silla (신라, 新羅). Goguryeo was later known as Goryeo (고려, 高麗), from which the modern name ''Kor ...
period that were not incorporated in the more contemporary
Gyeongbokgung
Gyeongbokgung (), also known as Gyeongbokgung Palace or Gyeongbok Palace, was the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty. Built in 1395, it is located in northern Seoul, South Korea. The largest of the '' Five Grand Palaces'' built by the Joseo ...
. One such element is the fact that the buildings of Changdeokgung blend with the natural topography of the site instead of imposing themselves upon it. Like the other Five Grand Palaces in Seoul, it was heavily damaged during the
Japanese occupation of Korea
Between 1910 and 1945, Korea was ruled as a part of the Empire of Japan. Joseon, Joseon Korea had come into the Japanese sphere of influence with the Japan–Korea Treaty of 1876; a complex coalition of the Meiji period, Meiji government, military ...
(1910–1945). Currently, only about 30% of the pre-Japanese structures of the East Palace Complex (Changdeokgung together with
Changgyeonggung
Changgyeong Palace is a palace located in Seoul, South Korea.
The palace was built in the mid-15th century by King Sejong for his father, Taejong. It was originally named "Suganggung", but it was renovated and enlarged in 1483 by King Seongjon ...
) survive.
History
Changdeokgung was the second palace after
Gyeongbokgung
Gyeongbokgung (), also known as Gyeongbokgung Palace or Gyeongbok Palace, was the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty. Built in 1395, it is located in northern Seoul, South Korea. The largest of the '' Five Grand Palaces'' built by the Joseo ...
which had been established in 1395 as a primary palace. In the midst of strife for the throne between princes and vassals, authority of Gyeongbokgung was deteriorated.
King Jeongjong enthroned by
Prince Jeong-an (Yi Bang-won, later became King Taejong) moved the capital to
Gaegyeong
Kaesong (, ) is a special city in the southern part of North Korea (formerly in North Hwanghae Province), and the capital of Korea during the Taebong kingdom and subsequent Goryeo dynasty. The city is near the Kaesong Industrial Region close t ...
, the capital of the
Goryeo dynasty
Goryeo (; ) was a Korean kingdom founded in 918, during a time of national division called the Later Three Kingdoms period, that unified and ruled the Korean Peninsula until 1392. Goryeo achieved what has been called a "true national unificati ...
, again in 1400 on the pretext of its superior geographical features, but in fact, to avert a power struggle. King Taejong (Yi Bang-won) soon taking over the throne returned to
Hanseong
Seoul (; ; ), officially known as the Seoul Special City, is the capital and largest metropolis of South Korea.Before 1972, Seoul was the ''de jure'' capital of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) as stated iArticle 103 of ...
(present-day
Seoul
Seoul (; ; ), officially known as the Seoul Special City, is the capital and largest metropolis of South Korea.Before 1972, Seoul was the ''de jure'' capital of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) as stated iArticle 103 ...
) had a new palace named ''Changdeokgung'' instead of Gyeongbokgung because he had killed his half brothers in Gyeongbokgung whose construction was led by
Jeong Do-jeon
Jeong Dojeon (Korean: 정도전, Hanja: 鄭道傳, 1342 – October 6, 1398), also known by his pen name Sambong (Korean: 삼봉), was a prominent Korean scholar-official during the late Goryeo to the early Joseon periods. He served as the first ...
, the king's rival before. Construction of Changdeok Palace began in 1405, and was completed in 1412.
King Seonjo
Seonjo of Joseon (26 November 1552 – 16 March 1608) was the fourteenth king of the Joseon Dynasty of Korea from 1567 to 1608. He was known for encouraging Confucianism and renovating state affairs at the beginning of his reign. However, politi ...
expanded the palace grounds by about 500,000 square meters, including ''Huwon'' (see below).
The palace was burnt to the ground during the
Japanese invasion in 1592 and reconstructed in 1609 by King Seonjo and
King Gwanghaegun
Gwanghae-gun or Prince Gwanghae (4 June 1575 – 7 August 1641), personal name Yi Hon (Hangul: 이혼, Hanja: 李琿), was the 15th ruler of the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. As he was deposed in a coup d'état, he did not receive a temple name.
...
. The palace burned down again in 1623 because of
King Injo
Injo of Joseon (7 December 1595 – 17 June 1649), born Yi Jong, was the sixteenth ruler of the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. He was the grandson of King Seonjo and son of Prince Jeongwon. He was the king during the Later Jin invasion of Joseon, ...
a political Revolt against
Gwanghaegun
Gwanghae-gun or Prince Gwanghae (4 June 1575 – 7 August 1641), personal name Yi Hon (Hangul: 이혼, Hanja: 李琿), was the 15th ruler of the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. As he was deposed in a coup d'état, he did not receive a temple name.
...
. The palace was also attacked by the
Manchu
The Manchus (; ) are a Tungusic East Asian ethnic group native to Manchuria in Northeast Asia. They are an officially recognized ethnic minority in China and the people from whom Manchuria derives its name. The Later Jin (1616–1636) and ...
Qing
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speaki ...
but throughout its history of reconstruction and repair has remained faithful to its original design. Changdeokgung was the site of the royal court and the seat of government until 1868, when the neighboring
Gyeongbokgung
Gyeongbokgung (), also known as Gyeongbokgung Palace or Gyeongbok Palace, was the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty. Built in 1395, it is located in northern Seoul, South Korea. The largest of the '' Five Grand Palaces'' built by the Joseo ...
was rebuilt. Korea's last Emperor,
Sunjong
Sunjong, the Emperor Yunghui (; 25 March 1874 – 24 April 1926), was the second and the last Emperor of Korea, of the Yi dynasty, ruling from 1907 until 1910.
Biography
Crown Prince of Korea
Sunjong was the second son of Emperor Gojong a ...
lived here until his death in 1926.
Parts of the palace (notably Nakseon-jae hall) continued to function as a royal residence up to 1989, when both
Princess Deokhye
Princess Deokhye (Korean: 덕혜옹주, ''Deokhye-Ongju''; Japanese: 徳恵姫, ''Tokue-hime''; 25 May 191221 April 1989) was the last princess of the Korean Empire.
She was born on May 25, 1912, at Changdeok Palace, in Seoul, as the youngest ...
and
Crown Princess Bangja died. Other post-WWII residents included Empress
Sunjeong (Sunjong's second wife), Crown Prince
Yi Un
Prince Imperial Yeong, Yi Un, Crown Prince Uimin (also Euimin), also known as Yi Un, Yi Eun, Lee Eun and Un Yi (20 October 1897 – 1 May 1970), was the 28th Head of the Korean Imperial House, an Imperial Japanese Army general and the last crown ...
, his son
Yi Gu
Francis Yi Ku (December 29, 1931 July 16, 2005) was a Korean prince who was head of the House of Yi from 1970 until 2005. He was a grandson of Emperor Gojong of the Joseon dynasty.
Early life
Ku was born in Kitashirakawa Palace (which is cu ...
and Yi Gu's wife
Julia Mullock
Princess Julia Lee of Korea (March 18, 1927 – November 26, 2017) was an American member of the Korean Imperial Household. She became the wife of Gu, Prince of Korea. The two were not married in accordance with Korean custom,[Rhee Syngman
Syngman Rhee (, ; 26 March 1875 – 19 July 1965) was a South Korean politician who served as the first president of South Korea from 1948 to 1960.
Rhee was also the first and last president of the Provisional Government of the Republic of Ko ...]
for former imperial family members to be allowed back in.
Today there are 13 buildings remaining on the palace grounds and 28 pavilions in the gardens, occupying 110 acres (45 hectares) in all and the area is designated as Historical Site No. 122. Buildings of note include Donhwamun (built in 1412, rebuilt in 1607, with a copper bell weighing 9
short ton
The short ton (symbol tn) is a measurement unit equal to . It is commonly used in the United States, where it is known simply as a ton,
although the term is ambiguous, the single word being variously used for short, long, and metric ton.
The vari ...
s or 8
metric ton
The tonne ( or ; symbol: t) is a unit of mass equal to 1000 kilograms. It is a non-SI unit accepted for use with SI. It is also referred to as a metric ton to distinguish it from the non-metric units of the short ton (United States c ...
s), Injeongjeon (main hall), Seongjeongjeon (auxiliary office in the main hall), Huijeongdang (the king's private residence, later used as a conference hall), Daejojeon (living quarters), and Nakseon-jae.
Structures
![Korean_art-Donggwoldo-Changdeokgung_and_Changgyeonggung-Dong-A_University-01](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/11/Korean_art-Donggwoldo-Changdeokgung_and_Changgyeonggung-Dong-A_University-01.jpg)
The palace was built between Peak Maebong of Mt. Bugaksan in the back and River Geumcheon having flowing in the front influenced by the principle "baesanimsu" (배산임수, lit. 'back to hill, face to water') in
Feng Shui theory. Contrary to Gyeongbokgung whose main buildings are arranged in accurate architectural principle, however, buildings in Changdeokgung are disposed more freely without a regular system. Though its structure seems chaotic at a glance, all buildings are in harmony with the environment surrounding them.
Changdeokgung consists of governmental area (치조, 治朝, ''chijo'') centering on Injeongjeon and Seonjeongjeon, royal private area (침전, 寢殿, ''chimjeon'', meaning 'a house of king's bedroom'), Nakseonjae area in the east, and Huwon beyond the north hills. Most of major official buildings such as Injeongjeon, main hall of Changdeokgung, Seonjeongjeon, king's office, and many of government offices (궐내각사, 闕內各司, ''gwollaegaksa'') are placed in the front parts of the palace, beyond which there are royal private court for king and queen. King's houses like Seonjeongjeon, Huijeongdang, and Nakseonjae are surrounded in many folds of buildings and courts in case any outsider break through. The architectural style of Changdeokgung overall features simplicity and frugality because of
Confucian
Confucianism, also known as Ruism or Ru classicism, is a system of thought and behavior originating in ancient China. Variously described as tradition, a philosophy, a Religious Confucianism, religion, a humanistic or rationalistic religion, ...
ideology.
Structures of particular interest include:
![Injeongjeon, Changdeok Palace](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/13/Injeongjeon%2C_Changdeok_Palace.jpg)
* Donhwamun Gate – The main palace gate. Built in 1412, Donhwamun has a two-story pavilion-type wooden structure, and is the largest of all palace gates. Donhwamun was burned down during the Japanese invasion of 1592 and was restored in 1608.
* Geumcheongyo Bridge – Oldest bridge still extant in Seoul. Built 1411.
* Injeongjeon Hall (National Treasure) – The throne hall of Changdeokgung, it was used for major state affairs including the coronation of a new king and receiving foreign envoys. Originally built in 1405, it was rebuilt in 1610 after being burned down during the 1592 Japanese invasion, and a third time in 1804 after being destroyed by a fire.
* Seonjeongjeon Hall – An office for ruling officials. The king held daily meetings with ministers, reported on state affairs and seminars here.
* Huijeongdang Hall – Originally the king's bed chamber, it became his workplace after Seonjeongjeon was deemed too small for conducting routine state affairs. The original Huijeongdang was destroyed by a fire in 1917. The reconstructed structure is completely different from the original due to recent Western influences. Wooden floorboards and carpets, glass windows, and chandeliers can be seen inside the building.
* Daejojeon Hall – Official residence of the queen. Destroyed by fire in 1917, it was rebuilt with materials taken from Gyeongbokgung. Daejojeon was used as a residence for the last empress of Joseon, allowing us a glimpse into the final years of the royal household of the Joseon dynasty.
* Juhamnu Pavilion (
Kyujanggak
The Kyujanggak, also known as Gyujanggak, was the royal library of the Joseon Dynasty. It was founded in 1776 by order of King Jeongjo of Joseon, at which time it was located on the grounds of Changdeokgung Palace. Today known as Kyujanggak Royal ...
) – Royal libraries stood in this area. State exams were conducted in front of the pavilion on special occasions in presence of the king.
* Yeon-gyeongdang Residence – Built in 1827, it was an audience hall modeled after a typical literati house.
Huwon
Behind the palace lies the 78-acre (32 ha) Huwon (후원, 後苑, ''Rear garden'') which was originally constructed for the use of the royal family and palace women. The garden incorporates a lotus pond, pavilions, and landscaped lawns, trees, and flowers. There are over 26,000 specimens of a hundred different species of trees in the garden and some of the trees behind the palace are over 300 years old. The garden for the private use of the king had been called 'Geumwon' (금원, 禁苑, ''Forbidden garden'') because even high officials were not allowed to enter without the king's permission. It had also been called 'Naewon' (내원, 內苑, 'Inner garden'). Today Koreans often call it 'Biwon' (비원, 秘院, ''Secret garden'') which derived from the office of same name in the late 19th century. Though the garden had many other names, the one most frequently used through
Joseon dynasty period was 'Huwon'.
In September 2012, the Buyongjeong pavilion in the garden was re-opened after a year-long restoration project. The pavilion was restored based on the
Donggwoldo from 1820,
National Treasures of South Korea
A National Treasure () is a tangible treasure, artifact, site, or building which is recognized by the South Korean government as having exceptional artistic, cultural and historical value to the country. The title is one of the eight State-designa ...
No. 249.
A variety of ceremonies hosted by the king were held in Huwon. In the early period of the Joseon dynasty, military inspections in which the king participated were often held here.
King Sejo
Sejo of Joseon (2 November 1417 – 23 September 1468), personal name Yi Yu (Korean: 이유; Hanja: 李瑈), sometimes known as Grand Prince Suyang (Korean: 수양대군; Hanja: 首陽大君), was the seventh ruler of the Joseon dynasty of K ...
had troops parade and array before him or commanded them by himself in the garden. In addition, feasts were given, archery tournaments held, and fireworks enjoyed in Huwon.
The Ongnyucheon (옥류천, 玉流川, "Jade Stream") area is of particular interest. It contains a U-shaped water channel carved in 1636 for floating wine cups, with a small waterfall and an inscribed poem on the boulder above it. The area also contains five small pavilions.
World Heritage
Changdeokgung was added to the
UNESCO
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization is a specialized agency of the United Nations (UN) aimed at promoting world peace and security through international cooperation in education, arts, sciences and culture. It ...
World Heritage List
A World Heritage Site is a landmark or area with legal protection by an international convention administered by the UNESCO, United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). World Heritage Sites are designated by UNES ...
in 1997. The UNESCO committee stated the place was an "outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design" being exceptional because the buildings are "integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting" and adapted "to the topography and retaining indigenous tree cover."
Portions of the palace were used to film the hugely popular Korean drama ''
Dae Jang Geum
''Dae Jang Geum'' (; literally "The Great Jang-geum"), also known as ''Jewel in the Palace'', is a 2003 South Korean historical drama television series directed by Lee Byung-hoon. It first aired on MBC from September 15, 2003 to March 23, 20 ...
'' in the first decade of the 21st century.
Event
From April to October 2018, Changdeok Palace hosted the 2018 Changdeok Palace moonlight tour. Changdeok Palace moonlight tours are special events where visitors can experience life at the palace. It typically took about two hours and starts at Donhwamun Gate, the main gate of Changdeok Palace, at 8 p.m.
Gallery
Image:Daejojeon, Changdeokgung - Seoul, Korea.JPG, Daejojeon
File:Gyeonghungak.jpg, Gyeonghungak was an attached two-story building of Daejojeon Hall of Changdeok Palace. The first story was Gyeonghungak. and the second story was Jinggwangru.
Image:Huijeongdang (interior), Changdeokgung - Seoul, Korea.JPG, Huijeongdang
Image:Injeongjeon (interior), Changdeokgung - Seoul, Korea.JPG, Royal throne in Injeongjeon
Image:Juhamnu, Changdeokgung - Seoul, Korea.JPG, Juhamnu
Image:Korea-Seoul-Changdeokgung-02.jpg, Nakseonjae
Image:Ongnyucheon, Changdeokgung - Seoul, Korea.JPG, Ongnyucheon
Image:Seonjeongjeon, Changdeokgung - Seoul, Korea.JPG, Seonjeongjeon
References
Bibliography
* Choi, Jong-deok (최종덕) (2006), ''Changdeokgung: the true palace of Joseon'' (조선의 참 궁궐 창덕궁), Seoul: Nulwa.
*
* Yoon, Jong-soon (1992), ''Beautiful Seoul'', Seoul: Sung Min Publishing House. PP. 4–51 are particularly relevant; each building has a picture and a historical description.
* ''Changdeokgung Palace'', undated pamphlet available at the palace
External links
UNESCO: Changdeokgung Palace ComplexOfficial guide from Cultural Heritage AdministrationChangdeokgung : Official Seoul City TourismLife in Korea: Changdeok Palace / Biwon GardenPhoto galleryThe Seoul Guide : Changdeokgung Palace
{{Authority control
Palaces in South Korea
Gardens in South Korea
Jongno District
Joseon dynasty works
Royal residences in South Korea
Tourist attractions in Seoul
World Heritage Sites in South Korea