Bernhard Willhelm (born 3 November 1972 in
Ulm
Ulm () is a city in the German state of Baden-Württemberg, situated on the river Danube on the border with Bavaria. The city, which has an estimated population of more than 126,000 (2018), forms an urban district of its own (german: link=no, ...
) is a German fashion designer.
Education and first season
Bernhard Willhelm studied fashion design at the
Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, during which he assisted
Walter van Beirendonck
Walter Van Beirendonck (born 4 February 1957 in Brecht, Belgium) is a Belgian fashion designer. He is the head of the Fashion Department at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp.
He graduated in 1980 from the Royal Arts Academy in Antwerp. ...
,
Alexander McQueen
Lee Alexander McQueen CBE (17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010) was a British fashion designer and couturier. He founded his own Alexander McQueen label in 1992, and was chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. His achievements in fashio ...
,
Vivienne Westwood
Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood (née Swire; born 8 April 1941) is an English fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream.
Westwood came to public notice when she m ...
and
Dirk Bikkembergs. In 1998, he established his namesake fashion house, together with Jutta Kraus. They debuted their first womenswear collection in 1999
and their first menswear collection was introduced in 2000.
In 2002, Bernhard Willhelm moved their design studio from Antwerp to Paris, at which time Willhelm also became creative director for the fashion house
Capucci Capucci is a surname. Notable people with the surname include:
* Roberto Capucci (born 1930), Italian fashion designer
* Hilarion Capucci (1922–2017), titular archbishop of Caesarea in Palaestina
* Nicola Capocci
Nicola Capocci (died 1368) was ...
through 2004.
Later work
From 2009 up until 2014, Willhem held the position of head of the fashion department at
Universität für Angewandte Kunst in Vienna, Austria. In 2011, Willhelm relocated his team temporarily to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, and later in 2013 to Los Angeles, where the company has been based since.
Style
Wilhellm's clothing has been described as being typified by craftsmanship, eclecticism, and irony. His inspirations range from
South German folklore, historical costume to sport and traditional Japanese dress as well as questions of diversity, the human condition, facets of culture and perceptions of reality.
Eccentric silhouettes, for both men and women, are additional characteristic features of Willhelm's work.
Wilhelm is known for his unconventional approach to presenting seasonal collections, preferring installations, performances and
tableaux
The International Conference on Automated Reasoning with Analytic Tableaux and Related Methods (TABLEAUX) is an annual international academic conference that deals with all aspects of automated reasoning with analytic tableaux. Periodically, it jo ...
vivants over the fashion runway.
His career has been marked by collaborations with artists and creatives across disciplines, including
Bjork,
Olaf Breuning
Olaf Breuning (born February 16, 1970)SIK ISEAOlaf Breuning/ref> is a Swiss-born artist, born in Schaffhausen, who lives in New York City.
Works
*''Home 1/Home 2'' (2004/7)--30 minute video starring Brian Kerstetter. ''Home 1'' is presented as ...
, Cutler X,
Joe Dallesandro
Joseph Angelo D'Allesandro III (born December 31, 1948) is an American actor and Warhol superstar. Having also crossed over into mainstream roles such as mobster Lucky Luciano in the film '' The Cotton Club'', Dallesandro was a sex symbol of g ...
,
Carsten Fock,
William Forsythe,
Carmen Freudenthal,
Item Idem,
Nick Knight,
Nikolaus Schafhausen,
Rade Petrasevic,
Elle Verhagen,
Tony Ward, and
Lukas Wassmann.
Special Projects
In 2001 Willhelm posed naked in the first issue of magazine ''Butt'', in a pictorial shot by Turner Prize-winning photographer
Wolfgang Tillmans
Wolfgang Tillmans (born 16 August 1968) is a German photographer. His diverse body of work is distinguished by observation of his surroundings and an ongoing investigation of the photographic medium’s foundations.
Tillmans was the first photog ...
.
In 2013, Willhelm presented his men / women AW13-14 collection, in the form of a dance performance in collaboration with Josh Johnson and The
William Forsythe Company, Frankfurt.
Willhelm has worked on a number of films, including ''Men In Tights'', a collaboration with fashion photographer
Nick Knight, which was shown in conjunction with his AW08-9 Menswear Collection and ''Red Rose Pink Donkey,'' made in collaboration with Dirk Bonn and screened at
Athens Biennale
The Athens Biennale (abbr. AB) is an international cultural event held every two years at various locations in Athens, consisting of a large-scale exhibition and a diverse programme of side events, such as performances, workshops, lectures etc. It ...
.
Willhelm created costumes for
Bjork, used for her ''Volta'' album cover and her 2007 World Tour, as well as for
R.W. Fassbinder’s play ''
Die bitteren Tränen der Petra von Kant,'' shown at
Deutsches Theater in Berlin.
Commercial Collaborations
Willhelm has engaged in a number of commercial collaborations. From 2008 to 2015 he worked with Spanish footwear company
CAMPER on a line of men and women's shoes.
In 2009, he commenced a partnership with German eyewear brand
MYKITA
MYKITA GmbH is a high-end eyewear design manufacturer based in Berlin, Germany known internationally for its handcrafted eyeglasses and sunglasses.
Company
The company was founded by Harald Gottschling, Daniel Haffmans, Philipp Haffmans and Mori ...
. His collection of sunglasses featured color gradient lenses.
Willlhelm has also worked with Swedish rug manufacturer Henzel Studio on a collection of rugs and pillows that feature proclaiming statements drawn from the exhibition ''BERNHARD WILLHELM 3000: When Fashion Shows The Danger Then Fashion Is The Danger'' at the Museum of Contemporary Art Los Angeles (MOCA).
Exhibitions
*2015: ''BERNHARD WILLHELM 3000: WHEN FASHION IS THE DANGER, THEN FASHION IS THE DANGER'' at the
Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles
The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles (MOCA) is a contemporary art museum with two locations in greater Los Angeles, California. The main branch is located on Grand Avenue in Downtown Los Angeles, near the Walt Disney Concert Hall. MOCA's ...
*2009 ''Bernhard Willhelm Jutta Kraus'' at
Groninger Museum
The Groninger Museum () is an art museum in the city of Groningen in the Netherlands. The museum exhibits modern and contemporary art of local, national, and international artists.
The museum opened in 1874. The current post-modernist building co ...
, Groninger, The Netherlands.
*2007 ''BERNHARD WILLHELM: HET TOTAAL RAPPEL'' at
MOMU Fashion Museum, Antwerp, Belgium.
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Willhelm, Bernhard
German expatriates in Mexico
German fashion designers
1972 births
Living people