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Ben More Assynt ( gd, Beinn Mhòr Asaint) is a mountain in
Assynt Assynt ( gd, Asainn or ) is a sparsely populated area in the south-west of Sutherland, lying north of Ullapool on the west coast of Scotland. Assynt is known for its landscape and its remarkable mountains, which have led to the area, along with ...
in the far north-west of
Scotland Scotland (, ) is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Covering the northern third of the island of Great Britain, mainland Scotland has a border with England to the southeast and is otherwise surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean to the ...
, north-northeast of
Ullapool Ullapool (; gd, Ulapul ) is a village and port located in Northern Scotland. Ullapool has a population of around 1,500 inhabitants. It is located around northwest of Inverness in Ross and Cromarty, Scottish Highlands. Despite its modest size, ...
. The name translates as "big mountain of Assynt", and with a height of it is the highest point in
Sutherland Sutherland ( gd, Cataibh) is a historic county, registration county and lieutenancy area in the Highlands of Scotland. Its county town is Dornoch. Sutherland borders Caithness and Moray Firth to the east, Ross-shire and Cromartyshire (later ...
. The mountain lies in the east of Assynt, set apart from the area's better known and more dramatic (but lower) mountains such as
Suilven Suilven ( gd, Sùilebheinn) is a mountain in Scotland. Lying in a remote area in the west of Sutherland, it rises from a wilderness landscape of moorland, bogs, and lochans known as Inverpolly National Nature Reserve. Suilven forms a steep-sid ...
. It is hidden from the traveller on the
A837 road List of A roads in zone 8 in Great Britain starting north of the A8 and west of the A9 (roads beginning with 8). Single- and double-digit roads Triple-digit roads Four-digit roads See also * B roads in Zone 8 of the Great Britain numbe ...
by the adjacent
Munro A Munro () is defined as a mountain in Scotland with a height over , and which is on the Scottish Mountaineering Club (SMC) official list of Munros; there is no explicit topographical prominence requirement. The best known Munro is Ben Nevis ...
of
Conival Conival (Scottish Gaelic: ''Cona Mheall'') is a Scottish mountain situated in Assynt in the Sutherland area of the Highland Council Area, north-northeast of Ullapool. Overview Conival is a distinct landmark when viewed from the A837 road t ...
, and the best views of it are obtained from nearby summits. The higher slopes of the mountain are capped by light coloured
quartzite Quartzite is a hard, non- foliated metamorphic rock which was originally pure quartz sandstone.Essentials of Geology, 3rd Edition, Stephen Marshak, p 182 Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tect ...
boulders, giving it a distinctive appearance. Over of land around Ben More Assynt have been declared a
Site of Special Scientific Interest A Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in Great Britain or an Area of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI) in the Isle of Man and Northern Ireland is a conservation designation denoting a protected area in the United Kingdom and Isle of ...
(SSSI) because of their
geological Geology () is a branch of natural science concerned with Earth and other astronomical objects, the features or rocks of which it is composed, and the processes by which they change over time. Modern geology significantly overlaps all other Eart ...
interest and rare plant species.


Geography

Ben More Assynt is situated on a ridge of high ground which runs roughly north to south on the east side of the A837 road near
Inchnadamph Inchnadamph is a hamlet in Assynt, Sutherland, Scotland. The name is an anglicisation of the Gaelic name Innis nan Damh meaning 'meadow of the stags'. Assynt is a remote area with a low population density. Inchnadamph contains a few houses, a l ...
. This ridge forms part of the main north–south
watershed Watershed is a hydrological term, which has been adopted in other fields in a more or less figurative sense. It may refer to: Hydrology * Drainage divide, the line that separates neighbouring drainage basins * Drainage basin, called a "watershe ...
of Scotland, with drainage from the mountain reaching the
North Sea The North Sea lies between Great Britain, Norway, Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium. An epeiric sea on the European continental shelf, it connects to the Atlantic Ocean through the English Channel in the south and the Norwegian S ...
and the
Atlantic Ocean The Atlantic Ocean is the second-largest of the world's five oceans, with an area of about . It covers approximately 20% of Earth's surface and about 29% of its water surface area. It is known to separate the " Old World" of Africa, Europe ...
on opposite sides of mainland Scotland. The mountain's eastern and southern slopes are drained by the
River Oykel The River Oykel ( gd, Òiceall or , ) is a major river in northern Scotland that is famous for its salmon fishing. It rises on Ben More Assynt, a few miles from Ullapool on the west coast of Scotland, and drains into the North Sea via the Kyle o ...
and its tributary, the River Cassley, which flow into the
Dornoch Firth The Dornoch Firth ( gd, Caolas Dhòrnaich, ) is a firth on the east coast of Highland, in northern Scotland. It forms part of the boundary between Ross and Cromarty, to the south, and Sutherland, to the north. The firth is designated as a nationa ...
on Scotland's east coast. The River Traligill drains the western flanks through
Loch Assynt Loch Assynt ( gd, Loch Asaint) is a freshwater loch in Sutherland, Scotland, east-north east of Lochinver. Situated in a spectacular setting between the heights of Canisp, Quinag and Beinn Uidhe, it receives the outflow from Lochs Awe, Maol a ...
to reach the Atlantic at
Lochinver Lochinver (''Loch an Inbhir'' in Scottish Gaelic, Gaelic) is a village that is located at the head of the sea loch Loch Inver, on the coast in the Assynt district of Sutherland, Scottish Highlands, Highland, Scotland. A few miles northeast is Loc ...
. The mountain is connected to the neighbouring peak of Conival to the west by a lofty
ridge A ridge or a mountain ridge is a geographical feature consisting of a chain of mountains or hills that form a continuous elevated crest for an extended distance. The sides of the ridge slope away from the narrow top on either side. The line ...
with a low point of . Since Conival lies in the way of the ascent from Inchnadamph, the two are almost invariably ascended together. Ben More Assynt also has a subsidiary "top" listed in
Munro's Tables A Munro () is defined as a mountain in Scotland with a height over , and which is on the Scottish Mountaineering Club (SMC) official list of Munros; there is no explicit topographical prominence requirement. The best known Munro is Ben Nevis ...
, called simply the South Top; situated one kilometre south of the summit, it is high.


Geology

The Assynt area lies within the
Moine Thrust Belt The Moine Thrust Belt or Moine Thrust Zone is a linear tectonic feature in the Scottish Highlands which runs from Loch Eriboll on the north coast south-west to the Sleat peninsula on the Isle of Skye. The thrust belt consists of a series of t ...
and is a classic locality in the history of the development of theories about
thrust tectonics Thrust tectonics or contractional tectonics is concerned with the structures formed by, and the tectonic processes associated with, the shortening and thickening of the crust or lithosphere. It is one of the three main types of tectonic regime, ...
. The mountains of Ben More Assynt and Conival sit on the Ben More thrust sheet which is bounded by the Ben More Thrust below and the Moine Thrust above. The thrust sheet consists of
Lewisian gneiss The Lewisian complex or Lewisian gneiss is a suite of Precambrian metamorphic rocks that outcrop in the northwestern part of Scotland, forming part of the Hebridean Terrane and the North Atlantic Craton. These rocks are of Archaean and Paleoprote ...
with a cover of
Torridonian In geology, the term Torridonian is the informal name for the Torridonian Group, a series of Mesoproterozoic to Neoproterozoic arenaceous and argillaceous sedimentary rocks, which occur extensively in the Northwest Highlands of Scotland. The st ...
sandstone Sandstone is a clastic sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized (0.0625 to 2 mm) silicate grains. Sandstones comprise about 20–25% of all sedimentary rocks. Most sandstone is composed of quartz or feldspar (both silicates) ...
s and
Cambrian The Cambrian Period ( ; sometimes symbolized C with bar, Ꞓ) was the first geological period of the Paleozoic Era, and of the Phanerozoic Eon. The Cambrian lasted 53.4 million years from the end of the preceding Ediacaran Period 538.8 million ...
quartzite Quartzite is a hard, non- foliated metamorphic rock which was originally pure quartz sandstone.Essentials of Geology, 3rd Edition, Stephen Marshak, p 182 Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tect ...
. Lewisian gneisses are exposed to the south and southeast of the peak of Ben More Assynt and forms the ridge to the South Top, making it the highest located example of this rock type. The peak itself consists of Cambrian quartzite, which also forms the ridge to Conival and the ground to the north and northeast of the peak. Torridonian sediments are only exposed around Conival.


Ascents

An ascent of Ben More Assynt is usually combined with the neighbouring Munro of Conival, which if starting from the hamlet of Inchnadamph (grid reference ), is climbed first. From Inchnadamph the route of ascent follows the River Traligill to its source on the col between Conival and Beinn an Fhurain at a height of . It is then a stiff climb over shattered quartzite to reach Conival’s highest point. Ben More Assynt’s summit lies east and is a demanding walk over quartzite stones and scree, even though there is only just over 100 metres of re-ascent. The summit is marked by a shattered lump of quartzite. The sharp
arête An arête ( ) is a narrow ridge of rock which separates two valleys. It is typically formed when two glaciers erode parallel U-shaped valleys. Arêtes can also form when two glacial cirques erode headwards towards one another, although frequen ...
is quite tricky to negotiate in places; according to Ralph Storer, it "has been flatteringly compared to the
Aonach Eagach The Aonach Eagach () is a large mountain ridge in the Scottish Highlands, marking the northern edge of Glen Coe. It stretches east–west for several miles and includes two Munro summits: Sgùrr nam Fiannaidh at 967 m (3,175 ft) high, ...
, with several unexpectedly awkward moves across exposed slabs requiring care (especially when wet)".''"100 Best Routes On Scottish Mountains"'', Ralph Storer, , Gives this quote.


Wildlife and conservation

Ben More Assynt is home to many threatened species of vegetation. There are four species of plants which are on the
World Conservation Union The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN; officially International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources) is an international organization working in the field of nature conservation and sustainable use of natu ...
’s (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species, and there are 27 nationally scarce varieties of plants within the Site of Special Scientific Interest. In 2005 and 2006 the firm
Airtricity SSE Airtricity (previously Eirtricity) is an energy company founded in Ireland in 1997, and now a subsidiary SSE plc. SSE Airtricity supplies and distributes electricity and gas to Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. History The compa ...
proposed to build a 25-turbine
wind farm A wind farm or wind park, also called a wind power station or wind power plant, is a group of wind turbines in the same location used Wind power, to produce electricity. Wind farms vary in size from a small number of turbines to several hundre ...
at Invercassly, southeast of the mountain. Protesters used Ben More Assynt in their arguments against the project, saying that the wind farm would have a detrimental effect on the view from the mountain and the sense of wilderness would be greatly reduced. The future of the proposal is still in discussion.


New Memorial

In April 1941, during the Second World War, all 6 of the crew on board an
Avro Anson The Avro Anson is a British twin-engined, multi-role aircraft built by the aircraft manufacturer Avro. Large numbers of the type served in a variety of roles for the Royal Air Force (RAF), Fleet Air Arm (FAA), Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) a ...
were killed when the aircraft crashed on Ben More Assynt. Due to the inaccessibility of the crash site, the crew were buried on the mountain; their final resting places marked with a cairn. In 2012, the
Commonwealth War Graves Commission The Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) is an intergovernmental organisation of six independent member states whose principal function is to mark, record and maintain the graves and places of commemoration of Commonwealth of Nations mil ...
decided to replace the existing cairn, which had deteriorated in the harsh climate, with a 600-kilogramme granite marker to identify and protect the burial site. At an elevation of around , the burial site on Ben More Assynt is one of the Commission’s most remote grave sites in the UK and the logistics of replacing the cairn have proved challenging. In the end, a
Chinook helicopter The Boeing CH-47 Chinook is a tandem rotor helicopter developed by American rotorcraft company Vertol and manufactured by Boeing Vertol. The Chinook is a heavy-lift helicopter that is among the heaviest lifting Western helicopters. Its name, Ch ...
from
RAF Odiham RAF Odiham is a Royal Air Force station situated a little to the south of the village of Odiham in Hampshire, England. It is the home of the Royal Air Force's heavy lift helicopter, the Chinook, and of the King’s Helicopter Flight (TKHF) . I ...
had to be used to carry the granite memorial to the burial site. The granite memorial now marks the spot where Pilot Officer William Drew, Sergeant Jack Emery, Sergeant Harold Arthur Tompsett, Flying Officer James Henry Steyn, Sergeant Charles McPherson Mitchell and Flight Sergeant Thomas Brendon Kenny lost their lives when their aircraft crashed.


Gallery

Image:Ben_More_Assynt.jpg, Ben More Assynt from Conival. Image:Ben_More_Assynt_Summit_rocks.jpg, The shattered quartzite summit of Ben More Assynt.


References

* ''The High Mountains of Britain and Ireland'',
Irvine Butterfield Irvine Butterfield (1936–2009) was an environmentalist, hillwalker and author of several books about mountains and the outdoor environment who took a significant role in the running of organisations with such interests in Scotland. He was a go ...
, * ''The Munros'' (SMC Guide), Donald Bennet et al., * ''100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains'', Ralph Storer, * ''Hamish’s Mountain Walk'', Hamish Brown,
University of Leeds page on Assynt Geology

Airtricity page on Invercassley wind farm

Scotland Natural Heritage page on SSSI

Highland Council report on wind farm
{{British hills Munros Marilyns of Scotland Mountains and hills of the Northwest Highlands Mountains and hills of Highland (council area) Sites of Special Scientific Interest in North West Sutherland Sites of Special Scientific Interest in South East Sutherland Highest points of historic Scottish counties