Barbara Tropp (1948-October 26, 2001) was an American
orientalist, chef, restaurateur, and food writer. During her career, she operated China Moon restaurant in San Francisco and wrote cookbooks that popularized Chinese cuisine in America. China Moon's accompanying cookbook is credited with being one of the first
fusion cuisine
Fusion cuisine is cuisine that combines elements of different culinary traditions that originate from different countries, regions, or cultures. They can occur naturally and become aspects of culturally relevant cuisines, or they can be part of ...
cookbooks. She was the 1989 recipient of the Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America
James Beard Award
The James Beard Foundation Awards are annual awards presented by the James Beard Foundation to recognize chefs, restaurateurs, authors and journalists in the United States. They are scheduled around James Beard's May 5 birthday. The media award ...
. Tropp was called "the
Julia Child of Chinese cooking."
Early life and education
Barbara Tropp was born in 1948
in
Springfield, New Jersey.
Both her parents were Jewish and
podiatrists
A podiatrist ( ) is a medical professional devoted to the treatment of disorders of the foot, ankle, and related structures of the leg. The term originated in North America but has now become the accepted term in the English-speaking world for ...
. She had one sibling, Nhumey.
Tropp's family had little influence on her later culinary career. She described her mother's home cooking as "adequate". Her grandmother was German and cooked traditional German food.
The majority of her exposure to Chinese food was the Friday night Chinese take out her family ate each week.
Tropp described herself as an introvert growing up.
She became interested in Chinese culture after studying it in a high school art class.
She attended
Barnard College
Barnard College of Columbia University is a private women's liberal arts college in the borough of Manhattan in New York City. It was founded in 1889 by a group of women led by young student activist Annie Nathan Meyer, who petitioned Columbia ...
and graduated with honors in
Oriental studies.
Tropp earned her master's degree from
Princeton University
Princeton University is a private research university in Princeton, New Jersey. Founded in 1746 in Elizabeth as the College of New Jersey, Princeton is the fourth-oldest institution of higher education in the United States and one of the ...
in Chinese literature and art.
She stayed at Princeton, on a Woodrow Wilson Fellowship, to pursue a doctorate in poetry.
Her professors at Princeton suggested she study poetry at
National Taiwan University
National Taiwan University (NTU; ) is a public research university in Taipei, Taiwan.
The university was founded in 1928 during Japanese rule as the seventh of the Imperial Universities. It was named Taihoku Imperial University and served d ...
. She did so, living with two host families who cooked traditional Chinese cuisine. The head of the household of one of the families was Po-fu. Tropp credited Po-fu with introducing her to traditional and gourmet Chinese food and preparation.
In Taiwan, she also shopped at local markets and patronized food stalls.
She returned to the U.S., fluent in Mandarin, to continue her studies at Princeton.
Upon her return, Tropp obsessed about the food she had eaten and observed being prepared in Taiwan. She bought cookbooks and taught herself how to cook Chinese food.
She struggled to complete her thesis, preferring her culinary interests over academia. She taught cooking classes and catered for extra income as her fellowship began to run out. Tropp dropped out of Princeton and moved to San Francisco.
Career and life
Upon moving to San Francisco, Tropp settled near Chinatown. Eventually, she was contracted by
James Beard
James Andrews Beard (May 5, 1903 – January 23, 1985) was an American chef, cookbook author, teacher and television personality. He pioneered television cooking shows, taught at The James Beard Cooking School in New York City and Seaside, ...
to write a cookbook: ''
The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking: Techniques and Recipes'' in 1982.
As a result of the book, she traveled nationally, teaching cooking classes.
She worked in the kitchen at Greens, a San Francisco vegetarian restaurant.
In 1983, she opened
China Moon
''China Moon'' is a 1994 American romantic thriller film directed by John Bailey and starring Ed Harris, Madeleine Stowe and Benicio del Toro. It was written by Roy Carlson. It was filmed in 1991 but "shelved" for three years before its release ...
in a former diner in San Francisco.
The ''
Los Angeles Times
The ''Los Angeles Times'' (abbreviated as ''LA Times'') is a daily newspaper that started publishing in Los Angeles in 1881. Based in the LA-adjacent suburb of El Segundo since 2018, it is the sixth-largest newspaper by circulation in the U ...
'' described the food at China Moon as "authentic in taste but Californian in its spirit of artistic expression."
That same year,
Martha Stewart
Martha Helen Stewart (, ; born August 3, 1941) is an American retail businesswoman, writer, and television personality. As founder of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, she gained success through a variety of business ventures, encompassing pu ...
published her book ''Entertaining''. The book featured a collection of Chinese recipes which were plagiarized from Tropp's book, ''The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking.'' Stewart agreed to give Tropp credit in future editions of the book.
In 1989, she appeared on ''
Great Chefs
Great Chefs is a franchise of 656 televised cooking shows ( +13 cookbooks), that
began with thirteen half-hour programs produced for PBS nationally, entitled "Great
Chefs of New Orleans" by John Beyer and John Shoup in New Orleans. Later PBS se ...
''.
She was also awarded the Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America
James Beard Award
The James Beard Foundation Awards are annual awards presented by the James Beard Foundation to recognize chefs, restaurateurs, authors and journalists in the United States. They are scheduled around James Beard's May 5 birthday. The media award ...
.
The ''China Moon Cookbook'' was published in 1992. The ''New York Times'' called it "one of the first books that successfully brought together Chinese and European-American mainstream cooking." The book was awarded an
International Association of Culinary Professionals The International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) is a United States-based not-for-profit professional association whose members work in culinary education, communication, or the preparation of food and beverage.
History
The organizati ...
Cookbook Award.
She co-founded the organization
Women Chefs and Restaurateurs in 1993 with
Joyce Goldstein
Joyce Goldstein (born July 17, 1935) is an American chef, who is a two time James Beard Foundation Award winner. She ran the influential San Francisco-based restaurant Square One between 1984 and 1996.
Career
Joyce Goldstein worked as executive c ...
and other women in the industry.
In 1994, Tropp's sister, Nhumey, called her to tell Tropp that their mother had died of
ovarian cancer
Ovarian cancer is a cancerous tumor of an ovary. It may originate from the ovary itself or more commonly from communicating nearby structures such as fallopian tubes or the inner lining of the abdomen. The ovary is made up of three different c ...
at the age of 48. Prior to this, they did not know what kind of cancer their mother had died from. Nhumey had researched medical records to find the cause of death. Due to concerns about ovarian cancer being passed down genetically, Nhumey had a
oophorectomy
Oophorectomy (; from Greek , , 'egg-bearing' and , , 'a cutting out of'), historically also called ''ovariotomy'' is the surgical removal of an ovary or ovaries. The surgery is also called ovariectomy, but this term is mostly used in reference ...
and it was confirmed she had ovarian cancer. Tropp also had an
oophorectomy
Oophorectomy (; from Greek , , 'egg-bearing' and , , 'a cutting out of'), historically also called ''ovariotomy'' is the surgical removal of an ovary or ovaries. The surgery is also called ovariectomy, but this term is mostly used in reference ...
and it was also confirmed she had ovarian cancer. Tropp had
chemotherapy
Chemotherapy (often abbreviated to chemo and sometimes CTX or CTx) is a type of cancer treatment that uses one or more anti-cancer drugs ( chemotherapeutic agents or alkylating agents) as part of a standardized chemotherapy regimen. Chemothe ...
for one year coupled with Chinese medicinal and herbal treatments.
In 1996, she sold China Moon due to her declining health. She also took time off from writing.
Tropp eventually stopped her Western cancer treatments when her cancer was in remission. She continued to use medicinal Chinese treatments. While in Asia, with her husband Bart Rhoades, her cancer returned. Back in California, she started chemotherapy again.
Later life and death
By 1999, Tropp continued chemotherapy for ovarian cancer. She returned to work, writing for ''
Gourmet
Gourmet (, ) is a cultural idea associated with the culinary arts of fine food and drink, or haute cuisine, which is characterized by refined, even elaborate preparations and presentations of aesthetically balanced meals of several contrasting, of ...
'', teaching cooking classes, and hosting food tours in San Francisco. She, her husband and stepdaughter, split their time between San Francisco and their home in Napa Valley.
In October 2001, she was awarded the Women Chefs and Restaurateurs' President's Award. Weeks later, on October 26, she died of ovarian cancer at her San Francisco apartment.
Tropp's book, ''The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking: Techniques & Recipes'', was awarded the KitchenAid Cookbook Hall of Fame James Beard Award in 2004.
Selected works
*''China Moon Cookbook''. New York: Workman Publishing Company (1992).
*''The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking: Techniques and Recipes''. New York: Morrow (1982).
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Tropp, Barbara
1948 births
2001 deaths
20th-century American non-fiction writers
20th-century women writers
American women chefs
Barnard College alumni
Chefs from California
American cookbook writers
James Beard Foundation Award winners
People from Springfield Township, Union County, New Jersey
Women orientalists
Writers from San Francisco
Jewish orientalists
American orientalists
American restaurateurs
American food writers
Businesspeople from San Francisco
People from Napa County, California
Princeton University alumni
Princeton University fellows
Jewish American academics
Jewish American chefs
American people of German-Jewish descent
Deaths from ovarian cancer
20th-century American women writers
20th-century American Jews
Chefs from San Francisco