During the film awards season in early 2020, costume designer Sandy Powell wore a cream

calico Calico (; in British usage since 1505) is a heavy plain-woven textile made from unbleached, and often not fully processed, cotton. It may also contain unseparated husk parts. The fabric is far coarser than muslin, but less coarse and thick than ...

toile Toile (French for "canvas") is a textile fabric comparable to fine batiste with a cloth weave. Natural silk or chemical fiber filaments are usually used as materials. The word ''toile'' can refer to the fabric itself or to a test garment sewn ...

(a tailor's mock-up) two-piece suit of her own design, and collected celebrities'

autograph An autograph is a person's own handwriting or signature. The word ''autograph'' comes from Ancient Greek (, ''autós'', "self" and , ''gráphō'', "write"), and can mean more specifically: Gove, Philip B. (ed.), 1981. ''Webster's Third New Inter ...

s on it in

permanent marker A permanent marker or indelible marker is a type of marker pen that is used to create permanent or semi-permanent writing on an object. In general, the ink comprises a main carrier solvent, a glyceride, a pyrrolidone, a resin and a colorant, ma ...

. The suit was then auctioned to raise funds for the purchase of artist, filmmaker and gay rights activist

Derek Jarman Michael Derek Elworthy Jarman (31 January 1942 – 19 February 1994) was an English artist, film maker, costume designer, stage designer, writer, gardener and gay rights activist. Biography Jarman was born at the Royal Victoria Nursing Home ...

cottage A cottage, during Feudalism in England, England's feudal period, was the holding by a cottager (known as a Cotter (farmer), cotter or ''bordar'') of a small house with enough garden to feed a family and in return for the cottage, the cottager ...

Dungeness Dungeness () is a headland on the coast of Kent, England, formed largely of a shingle beach in the form of a cuspate foreland. It shelters a large area of low-lying land, Romney Marsh. Dungeness spans Dungeness Nuclear Power Station, the hamlet ...

Kent Kent is a county in South East England and one of the home counties. It borders Greater London to the north-west, Surrey to the west and East Sussex to the south-west, and Essex to the north across the estuary of the River Thames; it faces ...

, England. The suit was bought by

Edwina Dunn Edwina D. Dunn, OBE (born May 29, 1958) is an English entrepreneur in the field of data science and customer-centric business strategy. Since 2014, she has been the Chief Executive Officer of the consumer insights company, Starcount. She is also ...

, who then donated it to the Theatre and Performance Collection of the

Victoria and Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (often abbreviated as the V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.27 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and nam ...

(V&A) in London. In April 2022 the suit featured in an episode of the

BBC Two BBC Two is a British free-to-air public broadcast television network owned and operated by the BBC. It covers a wide range of subject matter, with a remit "to broadcast programmes of depth and substance" in contrast to the more mainstream an ...

series ''Secrets of the Museum''.

Origin

In 1985 artist, filmmaker and gay rights activist Derek Jarman gave Sandy Powell her first job in the film industry, as the costume designer for his film ''

Caravaggio Michelangelo Merisi (Michele Angelo Merigi or Amerighi) da Caravaggio, known as simply Caravaggio (, , ; 29 September 1571 – 18 July 1610), was an Italian painter active in Rome for most of his artistic life. During the final four years of hi ...

''. The year ''Caravaggio'' was released, Jarman was diagnosed with

HIV The human immunodeficiency viruses (HIV) are two species of ''Lentivirus'' (a subgroup of retrovirus) that infect humans. Over time, they cause acquired immunodeficiency syndrome (AIDS), a condition in which progressive failure of the immune ...

. Shortly afterwards, he moved into

Prospect Cottage Prospect Cottage is a house on the coast in Dungeness (headland), Dungeness, Kent. Originally a Victorian fisherman's hut, the house was purchased by director and artist Derek Jarman in 1987, and was his home until his death in 1994. Jarman bou ...

, a Victorian fisherman's cottage on the shingle beach at

, in the shadow of

Dungeness Nuclear Power Station The Dungeness nuclear power stations are a pair of non-operational nuclear power stations located on the Dungeness headland in the south of Kent, England. Dungeness A is a legacy Magnox power station consisting of two 250 MWe reactors which w ...

. Jarman died in 1994, and the cottage was bequeathed to his partner Keith Collins. The house was put up for sale in 2018 after Collins' death, its interior still containing Jarman's belongings, art and materials, and artwork by Jarman's friends and admirers, including

Maggi Hambling Margaret ("Maggi") J. Hambling (born 23 October 1945) is a British artist. Though principally a painter her best-known public works are the sculptures '' A Conversation with Oscar Wilde'' and '' A Sculpture for Mary Wollstonecraft'' in London, ...

John Maybury John Maybury (born 25 March 1958) is an English filmmaker and artist. He first came to prominence as the director of the music video for the Pet Shop Boys 1984 single "West End Girls". In 2005 he was named as one of the 100 most influential gay ...

Gus Van Sant Gus Green Van Sant Jr. (born July 24, 1952) is an American film director, producer, photographer, and musician. He has earned acclaim as both an independent and mainstream filmmaker. His films typically deal with themes of marginalized subcultur ...

and Richard Hamilton. In January 2020, with Prospect Cottage at risk of being sold privately and its contents dispersed, the

Art Fund Art Fund (formerly the National Art Collections Fund) is an independent membership-based British charity, which raises funds to aid the acquisition of artworks for the nation. It gives grants and acts as a channel for many gifts and bequests, as ...

began a fundraising drive to secure the cottage's future. To help with this, Powell decided to collect celebrities' signatures on a suit toile she had designed (getting the signatures while wearing it), and then auction the suit. As Powell was to be awarded the Dilys Powell Award for Excellence in Film at the Critics' Circle awards, and was nominated for Best Costume Design for ''

The Irishman ''The Irishman'' (subtitled onscreen as ''I Heard You Paint Houses'') is a 2019 American epic gangster film directed and produced by Martin Scorsese and written by Steven Zaillian, based on the 2004 nonfiction book '' I Heard You Paint Hou ...

'' at both the BAFTAs and the Oscars, she had plenty of opportunity to collect autographs at the coming awards ceremonies.

The suit

The two-piece suit (jacket and trousers) is a

, a tailor's mock-up to test a design before expensive material is committed. The toile is the toile for the suits that Powell wore to the 2017 and 2019 Oscars and BAFTAS. The toile is made of cream calico with rough stitching, with the jacket fixed by two large

safety pins The safety pin is a variation of the regular pin which includes a simple spring mechanism and a clasp. The clasp forms a closed loop to properly fasten the pin to whatever it is applied to and covers the end of the pin to protect the user from th ...

. It was deliberately chosen to be a "blank canvas" on which to collect signatures. Over a six-week period during the 2020 film awards season, Powell attended

The Critics' Circle The Critics' Circle is the national Professional association, professional body of United Kingdom, British critics for dance, drama, film, music, books and visual arts. It was established in 1913 as a successor to the Society of Dramatic Critics ...

awards ceremony on 30 January 2020, the 2020 BAFTAs award show on 2 February 2020 and the 2020 Oscars ceremony on 9 February 2020, plus other events, and collected over 200 signatures on the suit. Powell noted that some people chose where to sign, while others were told, with "only girls on the bum". The suit was auctioned online between 4 and 11 March 2020 by Phillips Auction House, after being displayed in the foyer of its gallery in Berkeley Square, London, along with four handwritten keys identifying almost all the signatures on the various parts of the suit. The suit sold for £16,000. It was purchased by

, who then donated it to the

V&A Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (often abbreviated as the V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.27 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and nam ...

, on behalf of The Female Lead, an educational charity that drives change and equality for women. The suit underwent conservation cleaning at the museum, and Powell visited the museum to help choose the mannequin on which it was to be displayed. Powell's handwritten keys were to be mounted alongside the suit in the gallery when it was to go on display. The suit was placed on display in April 2022 in Room 104 of the V&A's Theatre & Performance galleries. The campaign to save Prospect Cottage was a success, and it will host residencies for artists, academics and gardeners.

List of most of the signatories on the suit

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* Paul Croal *

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* Fejmi Daut *

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* Lily Rose Depp *

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* Peter Fillingham *

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* Dennis Glassner * Jinko Gotoh * Stephane Grabli *

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* Matthew Jacobs Morgan * Kyle James *

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* Nicki Ledermann *

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*Matt Lefebvre *Kasi Lemmons *Damian Lewis *Barbara Ling *Honeyland, Samir Ljuma *Courtney Love *Ladj Ly *1917 (2019 film), Callum MacDougal *George MacKay (actor), George MacKay *Tod Maitland *Rami Malek *Rooney Mara *

*Helen McCrory *Michael McCusker *Shannon McIntosh (filmmaker), Shannon McIntosh *Debbie McWilliams *Sam Mendes (twice) *Liz Miller *Kylie Minogue *Janelle Monáe *Anne Morgan (make-up artist), Anne Morgan *Steven A. Morrow *Sophie Muller *Smriti Mundhra *Kathrine Narducci *Andy Nelson (sound engineer), Andy Nelson *Mark Nielsen (producer), Mark Nielsen *Jehane Noujaim *Sergio Pablos *Al Pacino *Anna Paquin *David Parfitt *Amy Pascal *The Edge of Democracy, Tiago Pavan *Christopher Peterson (costume designer), Christopher Peterson *Arianne Phillips *Todd Phillips *Joaquin Phoenix *Brad Pitt *Billy Porter (actor), Billy Porter *Sally Potter * Sandy Powell *Rodrigo Prieto *Jonathan Pryce *Tom Rand (costume designer), Tom Rand *Jeff Reichert *Nick Rhodes *Jonas Rivera *Margot Robbie *Marisa Roman *Ray Romano *Saoirse Ronan *Jane Rosenthal *Mayes Rubeo *Kristine Samuelson *Lee Sandales *Ted Sarandos *Thelma Schoonmaker *Stephen Schwartz (composer), Stephen Schwartz *Martin Scorsese *Jeremy Scott *Tracey Seaward *Brian Selznick *Andy Serkis *Bob Shaw *Lawrence Sher *David Shields *Peggy Siegal *Matt Smith *Jason Solomons *Mark Strong *Tilda Swinton *Honor Swinton Byrne *Sarah Swords *Peter Swords King *Annie Symons *Quentin Tarantino *Bernie Taupin *Jany Temime *1917 (2019 film), Jayne-Ann Tenggren *Charlize Theron *Emma Tillinger *Dominic Tuohy *Tracey Ullman *Donatella Versace *Tristan Versluis *Ra Vincent *Bait (2019 film), Linn Waite *Taika Waititi *David Walliams *Micheal WardPowell identified his signature on this Instagram post: https://www.instagram.com/p/B9T9-GVA_mS/ but spelled his first name incorrectly as Michael *Dianne Warren *Rebel Wilson *Stuart Wilson (sound engineer), Stuart Wilson *Chelsea Winstanley *Jaime Winstone *Ray Winstone *Stephen Woolley *Steven Zaillian *Renée Zellweger

References

External links

Sandy Powell's Instagram post showing her annotated identification of the signaturesThe suit featured in the BBC series ''Secrets of the Museum'' (Series 3, Episode 2: 08:42–13:39; 34:11–36:52; 45:55–52:01)

BBC publicity for the ''Secrets of the Museum'' episode featuring the suitPhillips auction page for the suitV&A Accession page for the suit
{{Red carpet fashion Individual suits Outfits worn at the Academy Awards ceremonies 2020s clothing 2020 in fashion Collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum