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The Astoria–Megler ferry, also called the Astoria–McGowan ferry and the Astoria–North Beach ferry, ran across the
Columbia River The Columbia River (Upper Chinook: ' or '; Sahaptin: ''Nch’i-Wàna'' or ''Nchi wana''; Sinixt dialect'' '') is the largest river in the Pacific Northwest region of North America. The river rises in the Rocky Mountains of British Columbia, C ...
between
Astoria, Oregon Astoria is a port city and the seat of Clatsop County, Oregon, United States. Founded in 1811, Astoria is the oldest city in the state and was the first permanent American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. The county is the northwest corne ...
, and two ferry docks near the present small community of
Megler, Washington Megler is a small unincorporated community in Pacific County in the U.S. state of Washington. Named for legislator Joseph G. Megler, the community is at the mouth of the Columbia River on the north shore (Washington side) of the river. It is t ...
, from 1921 to 1966.


History

Until 1920, the
Long Beach Peninsula The Long Beach Peninsula is an arm of land on the southern coast of the state of Washington in the United States. Entirely within Pacific County, it is bounded on the west by the Pacific Ocean, the south by the Columbia River, and the east by Wi ...
in Pacific County, Washington, also known as the North Beach, was an isolated portion of the state because of the lack of roads. It was practically impossible to reach except by water transport, generally a steamboat. The two most important steamboat landings on the peninsula were on the Columbia River, at
Ilwaco Ilwaco ( ) is a city in Pacific County, Washington, United States. The population was 936 at the 2010 census. Founded in 1890, the city was home to the Ilwaco Railway and Navigation Company along the Long Beach Peninsula, with its core economy b ...
and, to the north, on
Willapa Bay Willapa Bay () is a bay located on the southwest Pacific coast of Washington state in the United States. The Long Beach Peninsula separates Willapa Bay from the greater expanse of the Pacific Ocean. With over of surface area Willapa Bay is the ...
(then known as Shoalwater Bay), at Nachotta. In 1889, a narrow gauge railway, the
Ilwaco Railway and Navigation Company The Ilwaco Railway and Navigation Company operated a narrow gauge railroad that ran for over forty years from the bar of the Columbia River up the Long Beach Peninsula to Nahcotta, Washington, on Willapa Bay. The line ran entirely in Pacific ...
, connected the two points, running out on the docks at each terminus. During the summers, always the busiest season, steamers such as the sidewheeler ''
T. J. Potter The ''T.J. Potter'' was a paddle steamer that operated in the Northwestern United States. The boat was launched in 1888. Her upper cabins came from the steamboat ''Wide West''. This required some modification, because the ''T.J. Potter'' was a ...
'' brought vacation crowds from
Portland, Oregon Portland (, ) is a port city in the Pacific Northwest and the largest city in the U.S. state of Oregon. Situated at the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia rivers, Portland is the county seat of Multnomah County, the most populous co ...
, down the Columbia River to the landing at Ilwaco, and after 1908 to a much larger dock further upriver at Megler. The railroad and steamers, both under the control of the
Union Pacific Railroad The Union Pacific Railroad , legally Union Pacific Railroad Company and often called simply Union Pacific, is a freight-hauling railroad that operates 8,300 locomotives over routes in 23 U.S. states west of Chicago and New Orleans. Union Paci ...
, reached their highest point of profitability in the summer of 1913. In 1916, construction was completed on a paved highway running from Portland to Astoria. Demand for steamer travel fell off. The last steamer to make the Portland to Astoria run was the sternwheeler ''Harvest Queen'', on February 18, 1921. The steamer ''Nahcotta'' made runs from Astoria to Megler, but could not compete with the auto ferries that were coming on the route.


Ferry service

Ferry service across the Columbia River from Astoria, Oregon, to Megler, Washington, began in the summer of 1920 when Capt. Fritz S. Elfving set up a
scow A scow is a smaller type of barge. Some scows are rigged as sailing scows. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, scows carried cargo in coastal waters and inland waterways, having an advantage for navigating shallow water or small harbours. S ...
as an improvised ferry and transported over 700 vehicles during that summer. In April 1921, Elfving incorporated as the Astoria-McGowan Ferry Company. With the company capitalized at $30,000, Elfving was also able to secure a subsidy of $400 per year from
Pacific County, Washington Pacific County is a county in the U.S. state of Washington. As of the 2020 census, the population was 23,365. Its county seat is South Bend, and its largest city is Raymond. The county was formed by the government of Oregon Territory in Februa ...
. The county also built a road from the town of Chinook to McGowan, Washington, where the company had arranged to build a ferry slip at the end of a dock owned by a cannery, P.J. McGowan & Co. Elving also persuaded the Astoria City Council to use municipal funds to construct a ferry dock on the Oregon side of the river. Elfving then contracted with an Astoria shipbuilding firm to build a diesel motor ferry, at a price of between $17,000 and $22,000. The new vessel, ''Tourist'' ( 15 tons, capacity 15 automobiles, 30 passengers) was launched on May 21, 1921, and entered service a few days later.Feagans, ''The Railroad that Ran by the Tide'', at pages 82 to 97. Now with the ferry in place, travellers could drive their automobiles all the way to Astoria and onto a ferry to take them over to the Long Beach Peninsula, without the need of either railroad or steamboat.Asay, ''Union Pacific Northwest – The Oregon–Washington Railroad and Navigation Company'', at 186-89.Ruby, Robert H., and Brown, John A., ''Ferryboats on the Columbia River'', at 16, 17, 121 and 122. Ferry traffic quickly rose, and Elfving commissioned a new and larger wooden-hulled ferry, ''Tourist II'' (, 95 tons, capacity: 22 automobiles, 155 passengers), which was launched at Astoria on June 17, 1924.MV ''Tourist II'' aka MV ''Kirkland''
EvergreenFleet.com. Retrieved 27 December 2012.
The ferries departed from a specially-built dock at 14th Street in Astoria which included a ramp to allow rapid loading and unloading of automobiles. In good weather the ferry trip took about 30 minutes.Hobbs and Lucero, ''The Long Beach Peninsula'', at page 51. In 1925, motor truck operators in Astoria started using the ferries to the Long Beach Peninsula which cut sharply into the railroad's freight business.


Competition

In 1926, the
Union Pacific Railroad The Union Pacific Railroad , legally Union Pacific Railroad Company and often called simply Union Pacific, is a freight-hauling railroad that operates 8,300 locomotives over routes in 23 U.S. states west of Chicago and New Orleans. Union Paci ...
tried to best the Elfving company by building their own automobile ferry, the ''North Beach'' ( 225 tons, capacity 25 automobiles). Union Pacific had ferry slips built at Astoria and at Megler. Although the ''North Beach'' was a well-built vessel, launched on April 28, 1927, with fanfare, and making its first run on July 6, 1927, ''North Beach'' could never manage to compete with Captain Elfving's boats. J.W. McGowan, a businessman of
McGowan McGowan is an Irish and Scottish surname. It is an Anglicization of the Irish Mac Gabhann and Scottish surname ''Mac Gobhann''. Belonging to the Uí Echach Cobo, located in modern-day County Down in the east of Ulster, they produced several ...
, owned stock in Elfving's ferry company, and he made it difficult for the railroad to build a road over his property to the Union Pacific's competing ferry dock at Megler. Union Pacific shut down
ferry A ferry is a ship, watercraft or amphibious vehicle used to carry passengers, and sometimes vehicles and cargo, across a body of water. A passenger ferry with many stops, such as in Venice, Italy, is sometimes called a water bus or water taxi ...
operations to Megler in September 1930 selling to one of its employees, Capt. Calvin E. Stewart, claiming they'd lost $40,000 per year in the ferry business. The railroad calculated that the line had suffered losses of $300,000 from 1925 to 1928. Apparently the railroad then hit on the idea of forming a new subsidiary, the Astoria, North Shore and Willapa Harbor Railroad, selling stock in the railroad to local residents, and then using the proceeds from the stock sale to buy out its losing operation. Supposedly the new operation would return the route to profitability by operating cheaper small diesel-electric engines and cut its expenses by 90%. The plan also included a new ferry for motor traffic and use of trucks instead of rail to deliver freight. There were some problems with the legality of the stock proposal, as the sale could not proceed without the approval of the Interstate Commerce Commission. Local opposition was high, and the plan eventually came to nothing. In the spring of 1931, Stewart incorporated as the Columbia Transportation Company, and began a plan to put his rival, Captain Elfving, out of business. He began quietly buying up underwater parcels of real estate all around the Elfving ferry dock, and then one night with a hired marine pile driver drove in pilings around the dock so that a ferry could not get through. This move, which had been contemplated by Union Pacific as early as 1927 but not acted upon, did not stop Elving from landing his ferry, precisely how is not recorded but a story was repeated that Elving had backed up the ferry then surged ahead at full speed, knocking down the piles. Fighting between the two crews broke out on the dock until the Astoria police arrived. Elfving himself was a tough competitor. He was reported to have simply gotten in a car that was being driven over to the competitor's dock, and persuaded the driver to use his ferry instead. The dispute went on until 1932 when Elfving was able to buy out Stewart, who was having general difficulties in the hard economic times, and combine the two companies. Following the purchase, Elfving relocated all ferry landings on the north side to Megler, which was a better location for a landing than at McGowan.


Depression and war

As of April 18, 1931, the route, under the name of the Astoria-North Beach Ferry Company charged a "new low rate" of $1 for car and driver. Ferries departed Astoria for Point Ellice, as the northern terminal was known, and returned, nine times a day. Walk-on passengers on the 9:00 a.m., 12:15 p.m., and 5:00 p.m. ferries out of Astoria could make a bus connection on arrival at Point Ellice, with the converse being true at Astoria for the 9:30 a.m., 12:45 p.m., and 5:30 pm ferries departing Point Ellice. Construction on an additional motor ferry, the wooden-hulled ''Tourist III'' ( long, 233 tons, capacity: 28 automobiles, 280 passengers) was completed in 1931, with the new ferry entering service on July 4, 1931. During the Second World War, Elfving sold ''Tourist II'' to the
U.S. Army The United States Army (USA) is the land service branch of the United States Armed Forces. It is one of the eight U.S. uniformed services, and is designated as the Army of the United States in the U.S. Constitution.Article II, section 2, cla ...
for $35,000. The Army renamed the ferry ''Octopus'', rebuilt the ferry's upper works, and used it for mining laying and logistics. After the war Elfving bought ''Tourist II'' back from the Army, paying a little more, $36,000, but the Army had installed a new engine in the vessel.


Sale to Oregon Highway Department

Captain Elfving retired in 1946 and sold his ferry business to Merle R. Chessman (d.1946), who had planned to sell the operation to the
Oregon State Highway Department The Oregon Department of Transportation (ODOT) is a department of the state government of the U.S. state of Oregon responsible for systems of transportation. It was first established in 1969. It had been preceded by the Oregon State Highway Depart ...
. This sale occurred on June 1, 1946, but Chessman died before the sale was completed. In December 1947, a new ferry was launched and, in 1948, placed on the route. This was the steel-built '' M.R. Chessman'' ( 570 tons). ''Chessman'' remained on the route until the mid-1960s. Another vessel placed on the route was the motor ferry ''Kitsap'' ( 426 tons, capacity: 95 automobiles (1920s) 32 (1960), 325 passengers. The highway department also took over operation of ''Tourist II'', and modified the vessel by shortening the superstructure and installing
radar Radar is a detection system that uses radio waves to determine the distance (''ranging''), angle, and radial velocity of objects relative to the site. It can be used to detect aircraft, ships, spacecraft, guided missiles, motor vehicles, w ...
equipment.


Close of service

In 1966 the Astoria-Megler Bridge was completed. This eliminated the need for the ferry route. The final run on the route came on July 28, 1966, and was made by the ''M.R. Chessman''.


Sale of the boats

The ferries were sold at auction on August 12, 1966. The U.S. Navy bought ''M.R. Chessman'' for $300,000, and transferred the vessel to Vietnam. The Navy had originally intended to use the vessel as a ferry on the
Mekong River The Mekong or Mekong River is a trans-boundary river in East Asia and Southeast Asia. It is the world's twelfth longest river and the third longest in Asia. Its estimated length is , and it drains an area of , discharging of water annuall ...
. The vessel was employed as a machine shop for river patrol craft.Evergreenfleet.com "M.R. Chessman"
(accessed 05-25-11).
''Kitsap'' was sold to an Alaska purchaser for $12,250, who had the objective of using the vessel as a floating general store. ''Kitsap'' however was wrecked en route to Alaska. Although ''Tourist II'' was over 40 years old, the ferry was still in excellent condition, Pierce County bought ''Tourist II'', renamed the vessel ''Islander'', carried out extensive modifications, and placed the ferry on the Steilacoom-Anderson Island route. In 1996, the ferry was purchased by
Argosy Cruises Argosy or The Argosy may refer to: Arts, entertainment and media * ''Argosy'' (magazine), an American pulp magazine 1882–1978 and revived 1990–1994, 2004–2006 * ''Argosy'' (UK magazine), three British magazines * Argosy spaceship in ''Escap ...
, who refurbished the ferry and renamed it the MV ''Kirkland''. The exterior styling, deck plan, and interior general arrangement were created by superyacht designer
Jonathan Quinn Barnett Jonathan Quinn Barnett (born 1964) is an American super yacht designer from Seattle, Washington. He apprenticed with Ron Holland and Jon Bannenberg for nearly seven years beginning in 1987, and founded Jonathan Quinn Barnett Ltd. (JQB Ltd.) in ...
of Seattle. The ferry sailed on
Lake Washington Lake Washington is a large freshwater lake adjacent to the city of Seattle. It is the largest lake in King County and the second largest natural lake in the state of Washington, after Lake Chelan. It borders the cities of Seattle on the west, ...
as a tour boat until its engine was damaged by a fire on August 28, 2010. Argosy decided that repairs to the ferry would be too expensive and they decided to scrap the ''Kirkland''. The ferry was then purchased by Christian Lint, who found that the fire had done only minor damage to the boat. He made repairs and modifications, docked it at the
Bremerton, Washington Bremerton is a city in Kitsap County, Washington. The population was 37,729 at the 2010 census and an estimated 41,405 in 2019, making it the largest city on the Kitsap Peninsula. Bremerton is home to Puget Sound Naval Shipyard and the Bremerto ...
, marina, and marketed the boat as an event space. In the summer of 2015, while negotiating with a nonprofit group in Astoria, Oregon, to "bring her home" to its original ferry dock at the 14th Street Landing, Lint had the ferry legally renamed The ''Tourist No. 2''. As of November 2015, Lint and the group are awaiting space at a shipyard in Seattle, where the ferry would be hauled out and inspected by the Coast Guard. If required repairs are minor, the nonprofit group, called the Astoria Ferry, will purchase the boat, make above-the-waterline repairs, and bring the boat to Astoria, where it would be used for Columbia River excursions and dockside events. ''Tourist III'' was sold to the Pacific Pearl Company which modified the vessel to become a floating fish cannery.


Notes


References

* Asay, Jeff, ''Union Pacific Northwest – The Oregon–Washington Railroad & Navigation Company'', Pacific Fast Mail, Edmonds, WA (1991) * Feagans, Raymond J., ''The Railroad that Ran by the Tide – Ilwaco Railroad & Navigation Company of the State of Washington'', Howell-North, Berkeley, CA (1972) * Hobbs, Nancy L., and Lucero, Donella J., ''The Long Beach Peninsula'', Arcadia Publishing (2004) * Newell, Gordon R. ed., ''H.W. McCurdy Marine History of the Pacific Northwest'', Superior Publishing, Seattle WA (1966) * Ruby, Robert H., and Brown, John A., ''Ferryboats on the Columbia River'', Superior Publishing Co., Seattle, WA, (1974) (LoC Card number 74-75658) * Stevens, Sydney, and Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum, ''North Beach Peninsula's IR&N'', Arcadia Publishing (2009)


Further reading

* Query, Charles,'' A History of Oregon Ferries Since 1826'', (2008)


External links


Map showing Oregon ferry routes in 1935
(accessed 05-25-11).
Oregon Department of Transportation history center photos – ferries.
(accessed 05-25-11)
The Astoria Ferry
— official page of the non-profit group in Astoria, Oregon, to bring the Tourist No. 2 back to its original landing {{DEFAULTSORT:Astoria-Megler Ferry Ferries of Oregon Ferries of Washington (state) Ferry routes in western Washington (state) Transportation in Pacific County, Washington History of Pacific County, Washington Transportation in Clatsop County, Oregon History of transportation in Oregon Crossings of the Columbia River 1921 establishments in Oregon