Arthur McGee
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Arthur Lee McGee (March 25, 1933 – July 1, 2019) was an American
fashion design Fashion design is the Art (skill), art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its Fashion accessory, accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and plac ...
er. In 1957, he was the first
African American African Americans (also referred to as Black Americans and Afro-Americans) are an ethnic group consisting of Americans with partial or total ancestry from sub-Saharan Africa. The term "African American" generally denotes descendants of ens ...
designer hired to run a design studio on Seventh Avenue in the Garment District in New York City.


Early life and education

Arthur Lee McGee was born on March 25, 1933 in
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,
Michigan Michigan () is a state in the Great Lakes region of the upper Midwestern United States. With a population of nearly 10.12 million and an area of nearly , Michigan is the 10th-largest state by population, the 11th-largest by area, and the ...
. His mother Rose was a dressmaker, she created her own clothing designs and taught he to him about fashion early in his childhood. His mother liked hats, so as a child he was determined to learn to make hats so he could make her one. He attended
Traphagen School of Fashion Traphagen School of Fashion was an art and design school in operation from 1923 to 1991, and was located at 1680 Broadway in New York City. The school was founded and directed by Ethel Traphagen Leigh (1883–1963) with a focus on the foundational ...
in New York City because he had won a scholarship. He graduated from Traphagen in 1951 in Costume Design. He continued his studies in millinery and apparel design at
Fashion Institute of Technology The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) is a public college in New York City. It is part of the State University of New York (SUNY) and focuses on art, business, design, mass communication, and technology connected to the fashion industry. It ...
(FIT) to refine his skills. At the same time he was in school, he studied with fashion designer, Charles James. He dropped out of FIT in 1956 before graduating after he was told there were no jobs for black designers and the Dean suggested he start looking for jobs as a
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.


Career

He spoke openly about being treated poorly in design offices in the early years and being assumed to not be the fashion designer, even when he was dressed in designer clothing, because he was black. In his early jobs he was allowed to create the fashion designs and build the clothing for the firm, but he was not allowed to use his own name. He opened up a small space in
Greenwich Village Greenwich Village ( , , ) is a neighborhood on the west side of Lower Manhattan in New York City, bounded by 14th Street to the north, Broadway to the east, Houston Street to the south, and the Hudson River to the west. Greenwich Village ...
and sold clothing to a few celebrities one weekend, and from then he had work from Broadway shows needing costumes. By 1957, at the age of 24, he was running the design room for Bobby Brooks, Inc, a women's apparel company. He was the first African American to hold this job position at an established Seventh Avenue apparel company. McGee's clothing designs were known for bring both African and Asian fashion aesthetics together, often featuring a looser silhouette and fabrics from Africa. In 1960s he opened his own design store on St. Mark’s Place in New York City. In addition the 1960s and 1970s he worked for College Town of Boston, a collegiate themed women's apparel company. He was most active in design between the 1960s until the 1980s. His designs were sold at larger department stores, and in many cases these were the first time the stores carried any African American fashion designers work, including
Saks Fifth Avenue Saks Fifth Avenue (originally Saks & Company; Colloquialism, colloquially Saks) is an American Luxury goods, luxury department store chain headquartered in New York City and founded by Andrew Saks. The original store opened in the F Street and ...
,
Bloomingdale’s Bloomingdale's Inc. is an American luxury department store chain; it was founded in New York City by Joseph B. and Lyman G. Bloomingdale in 1861. A third brother, Emanuel Watson Bloomingdale, was also involved in the business. It became a divi ...
,
Henri Bendel Henri Bendel, Inc. (pronounced BEN-del), established in 1895, was a women's department store based in New York City which in its later history sold women's handbags, jewelry, luxury fashion accessories, home fragrances and gifts. Its New York Ci ...
, and
Bergdorf Goodman Bergdorf Goodman Inc. is a luxury department store based on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York. The company was founded in 1899 by Herman Bergdorf and was later owned and managed by Edwin Goodman, and later his son, Andrew Goodman. To ...
. Some of his clients included
Lena Horne Lena Mary Calhoun Horne (June 30, 1917 – May 9, 2010) was an American dancer, actress, singer, and civil rights activist. Horne's career spanned more than seventy years, appearing in film, television, and theatre. Horne joined the chorus of th ...
, Sybil Burton, Cicely Tyson, and
Stevie Wonder Stevland Hardaway Morris ( Judkins; May 13, 1950), known professionally as Stevie Wonder, is an American singer-songwriter, who is credited as a pioneer and influence by musicians across a range of genres that include rhythm and blues, Pop musi ...
. He designed musician Dexter Gordon's custom suit he wore to the 1987
Academy Awards The Academy Awards, better known as the Oscars, are awards for artistic and technical merit for the American and international film industry. The awards are regarded by many as the most prestigious, significant awards in the entertainment ind ...
when he was nominated for an Oscar for the film Round Midnight.


Death and legacy

McGee died July 1, 2019 at the age of 86, in a nursing home in New York City after a long battle with illness. McGee had been a mentor to fashion designer,
Willi Smith Willi Donnell Smith (February 29, 1948 – April 17, 1987) was an American fashion designer. At the time of his death, Smith was regarded as one of the most successful African-American designers in the fashion industry. His company, WilliWe ...
. And McGee influenced many younger designers of the 1970s including, Stephen Burrows, Scott Barrie, B. Michael,
Jeffrey Banks Jeffrey Banks (born November 3, 1955) is an American fashion designer and author, who has been described as a major black fashion maker. Early life Banks worked as a design assistant to Ralph Lauren (1971 to 1973) and Calvin Klein (1973 to 197 ...
, and James Daugherty. His work is included in various public museum collections including the
Metropolitan Museum of Art The Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York City, colloquially "the Met", is the largest art museum in the Americas. Its permanent collection contains over two million works, divided among 17 curatorial departments. The main building at 1000 ...
, National Museum of African American History and Culture, among others. McGee's work was featured on the television show Antiques Roadshow (Season 24 Episode 30).


References


External links

* Video
The Fashion of Arthur McGee
(2009) from the
Metropolitan Museum of Art The Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York City, colloquially "the Met", is the largest art museum in the Americas. Its permanent collection contains over two million works, divided among 17 curatorial departments. The main building at 1000 ...
{{DEFAULTSORT:McGee, Arthur 1933 births 2019 deaths American fashion designers African-American fashion designers People from Detroit Traphagen School of Fashion alumni Fashion Institute of Technology alumni People from New York City 1980s fashion 20th-century African-American people 21st-century African-American people