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Aoraki / Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand. Its height, as of 2014, is listed as . It sits in the Southern Alps, the mountain range that runs the length of the
Annual precipitation around the mountain ranges varies greatly as the local climate is dominated by the eastward movement of depressions and anticyclones from across the Tasman Sea. The Aoraki / Mount Cook massif is a major obstacle to the prevailing westerly winds as they push depressions and associated cold fronts of moist air from the subtropics in the northwest against the mountain range. As the air rises towards the peaks, it expands and cools, and forms clouds. Rain and snowfall are often heaviest around the level and can last for several days if the front is slow-moving.
As a result of the local weather patterns, the western slopes of Aoraki / Mount Cook can receive well over of annual precipitation, whereas the nearby Mount Cook Village, only south of the mountain receives of rain or snowfall.
While the weather on the eastern side of the mountain is generally better, rain or snow can quickly become widespread on that side as well if the wind turns to the south or southeast. This brings with it a rapid drop in temperature and poor visibility, adding to the difficult climbing conditions on Aoraki / Mount Cook.
Temperatures at the mountain's base in the Hooker Valley around range from to , and generally fall just over 1 °C for every 200 metres of altitude.
From about and higher, semi-permanent snow and ice fields exist during winter. Winter and spring are usually less settled than summer and autumn. Anticyclones often bring days of settled weather in summer, or clear cold conditions in winter with severe frost.
' is the name of a person in the traditions of the Ngāi Tahu iwi; an early name for the South Island is ' (Aoraki's Canoe). In the past many believed it meant "Cloud Piercer", a romantic rendering of the name's components: ' (world, daytime, cloud, etc.) and ' or ' (day, sky, weather, etc.). Historically, the Māori name has been spelt ', using the standard Māori form.
Aoraki / Mount Cook became known to Māori after their arrival in New Zealand some time around the 14th century CE. The first Europeans who may have seen Aoraki / Mount Cook were members of Abel Tasman's crew, who saw a "large land uplifted high" (probably some part of the Southern Alps) while off the west coast of the South Island, just north of present-day Greymouth on 13 December 1642 during Tasman's first Pacific voyage. The English name of ''Mount Cook'' was given to the mountain in 1851 by Captain John Lort Stokes to honour Captain
The Southern Alps in the South Island were formed by tectonic uplifting and pressure as the Pacific and Indo-Australian Plates collided along the island's western coast. The uplifting continues, raising Aoraki / Mount Cook an average of each year. However, erosive forces are also powerful shapers of the mountains. The severe weather is due to the mountain's jutting into powerful westerly winds of the Roaring Forties which run around approximately 45°S latitude, south of both Africa and Australia. The Southern Alps are the first obstacle the winds encounter after South America, having moved east across the Southern Ocean.
The height of Aoraki / Mount Cook was established in 1881 by G. J. Roberts (from the west side) and in 1889 by T. N. Brodrick (from the Canterbury side). Their measurements agreed closely at . The height was reduced by when approximately 12–14 million cubic metres of rock and ice fell off the northern peak on 14 December 1991.The landslide carried with it another 40 million cubic metres of rock and ice. The impact caused an earth quake of 3.9 on the Richter scale. 207 In search Of Ancient NZ.Campball and Hutching.GNS science/Penguin.2011.
Two decades of erosion of the ice cap exposed after this collapse reduced the height by another 30 m to 3724 m, as revealed by new GPS data from a University of Otago climbing expedition in November 2013.
Aoraki / Mount Cook lies in the centre of the distinctive Alpine Fault, a 650 km long active fault in the Southern Alps. It is responsible for the uplift of Aoraki / Mt Cook and is believed to move every 100 to 300 years. It last moved in 1717.
The average annual rainfall in the surrounding lowlands, in particular to the west, is around . This very high rainfall leads to temperate
South Island
The South Island, also officially named , is the larger of the two major islands of New Zealand in surface area, the other being the smaller but more populous North Island. It is bordered to the north by Cook Strait, to the west by the Tasman ...
. A popular tourist destination, it is also a favourite challenge for mountain climbers. Aoraki / Mount Cook consists of three summits: from south to north, the Low Peak (), the Middle Peak () and the High Peak. The summits lie slightly south and east of the main divide of the Southern Alps / Kā Tiritiri o te Moana, with the Tasman Glacier to the east and the Hooker Glacier to the southwest.
Location
The mountain is in the Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park, in the Canterbury Region. The park was established in 1953 and along with Westland National Park, Mount Aspiring National Park andFiordland National Park
Fiordland National Park occupies the southwest corner of the South Island of New Zealand. It is by far the largest of the 13 national parks in New Zealand, with an area of , and a major part of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Site. The park i ...
forms one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The park contains more than 140 peaks standing over and 72 named glaciers, which cover 40 percent of its .
The peak is located at the northern end of the Kirikirikatata / Mount Cook Range, where it meets with the main spine of the Main Divide, forming a massif between the Hooker Valley to the southwest and the Tasman Valley east of the mountain. These two valleys provide the closest easily accessible view points of Aoraki / Mount Cook. A lookout point at the end of the Hooker Valley Track
The Hooker Valley Track is the most popular short walking track within the Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park in New Zealand. At only length and gaining only about in height, the well formed track can be walked by tourists with a wide range of ...
located only 10 km from the peak has views of the entire mountainside.
The settlement of Mount Cook Village, also referred to as "Aoraki / Mount Cook", is a tourist centre and base camp for the mountain. It is 7 km from the end of the Tasman Glacier and 15 km south of Aoraki / Mount Cook's summit.
On clear days, Aoraki / Mount Cook is visible from the West Coast as far north as Greymouth, some 150 kilometres away, and from most of State Highway 80 along Lake Pukaki and State Highway 6 south of Lake Pukaki. The near horizontal ridge connecting the mountain's three summits forms a distinctive blocky shape when viewed from an eastern or western direction.
Another popular view point is from Lake Matheson
Lake Matheson ( mi, Te Ara Kairaumati) is a small glacial lake in South Westland, New Zealand, near the township of Fox Glacier. It was a traditional food-gathering place for local Māori. An easy walking track circles the lake, which is famous ...
on the West Coast, described as the "view of views", where on calm days, the peaks of Aoraki / Mount Cook and Mt Tasman are reflected in Lake Matheson.
Local climate
Aoraki / Mount Cook receives substantial orographic precipitation throughout the year, as breezy, moisture-laden westerly winds dominate all year-round, bringing rainclouds from the Tasman Sea with them.
Annual precipitation around the mountain ranges varies greatly as the local climate is dominated by the eastward movement of depressions and anticyclones from across the Tasman Sea. The Aoraki / Mount Cook massif is a major obstacle to the prevailing westerly winds as they push depressions and associated cold fronts of moist air from the subtropics in the northwest against the mountain range. As the air rises towards the peaks, it expands and cools, and forms clouds. Rain and snowfall are often heaviest around the level and can last for several days if the front is slow-moving.
As a result of the local weather patterns, the western slopes of Aoraki / Mount Cook can receive well over of annual precipitation, whereas the nearby Mount Cook Village, only south of the mountain receives of rain or snowfall.
While the weather on the eastern side of the mountain is generally better, rain or snow can quickly become widespread on that side as well if the wind turns to the south or southeast. This brings with it a rapid drop in temperature and poor visibility, adding to the difficult climbing conditions on Aoraki / Mount Cook.
Temperatures at the mountain's base in the Hooker Valley around range from to , and generally fall just over 1 °C for every 200 metres of altitude.
From about and higher, semi-permanent snow and ice fields exist during winter. Winter and spring are usually less settled than summer and autumn. Anticyclones often bring days of settled weather in summer, or clear cold conditions in winter with severe frost.
Naming and European discovery
' is the name of a person in the traditions of the Ngāi Tahu iwi; an early name for the South Island is ' (Aoraki's Canoe). In the past many believed it meant "Cloud Piercer", a romantic rendering of the name's components: ' (world, daytime, cloud, etc.) and ' or ' (day, sky, weather, etc.). Historically, the Māori name has been spelt ', using the standard Māori form.
Aoraki / Mount Cook became known to Māori after their arrival in New Zealand some time around the 14th century CE. The first Europeans who may have seen Aoraki / Mount Cook were members of Abel Tasman's crew, who saw a "large land uplifted high" (probably some part of the Southern Alps) while off the west coast of the South Island, just north of present-day Greymouth on 13 December 1642 during Tasman's first Pacific voyage. The English name of ''Mount Cook'' was given to the mountain in 1851 by Captain John Lort Stokes to honour Captain James Cook
James Cook (7 November 1728 Old Style date: 27 October – 14 February 1779) was a British explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the British Royal Navy, famous for his three voyages between 1768 and 1779 in the Pacific Ocean an ...
who surveyed and circumnavigated the islands of New Zealand in 1770. Captain Cook did not sight the mountain during his exploration.
Following the settlement between Ngāi Tahu and the Crown in 1998, the name of the mountain was officially changed from Mount Cook to Aoraki / Mount Cook to incorporate its historic Māori name, Aoraki. As part of the settlement, a number of South Island placenames were amended to incorporate their original Māori name. Signifying the importance of Aoraki / Mount Cook, it is the only one of these names where the Māori name precedes the English. Under the settlement the Crown agreed to return title to Aoraki / Mount Cook to Ngāi Tahu, who would then formally gift it back to the nation. Neither transfer has yet occurred; Ngāi Tahu can decide when this will happen.
Geology
The Southern Alps in the South Island were formed by tectonic uplifting and pressure as the Pacific and Indo-Australian Plates collided along the island's western coast. The uplifting continues, raising Aoraki / Mount Cook an average of each year. However, erosive forces are also powerful shapers of the mountains. The severe weather is due to the mountain's jutting into powerful westerly winds of the Roaring Forties which run around approximately 45°S latitude, south of both Africa and Australia. The Southern Alps are the first obstacle the winds encounter after South America, having moved east across the Southern Ocean.
The height of Aoraki / Mount Cook was established in 1881 by G. J. Roberts (from the west side) and in 1889 by T. N. Brodrick (from the Canterbury side). Their measurements agreed closely at . The height was reduced by when approximately 12–14 million cubic metres of rock and ice fell off the northern peak on 14 December 1991.The landslide carried with it another 40 million cubic metres of rock and ice. The impact caused an earth quake of 3.9 on the Richter scale. 207 In search Of Ancient NZ.Campball and Hutching.GNS science/Penguin.2011.
Two decades of erosion of the ice cap exposed after this collapse reduced the height by another 30 m to 3724 m, as revealed by new GPS data from a University of Otago climbing expedition in November 2013.
Aoraki / Mount Cook lies in the centre of the distinctive Alpine Fault, a 650 km long active fault in the Southern Alps. It is responsible for the uplift of Aoraki / Mt Cook and is believed to move every 100 to 300 years. It last moved in 1717.
Surrounding forests and glaciers
The average annual rainfall in the surrounding lowlands, in particular to the west, is around . This very high rainfall leads to temperate rainforest
Rainforests are characterized by a closed and continuous tree canopy, moisture-dependent vegetation, the presence of epiphytes and lianas and the absence of wildfire. Rainforest can be classified as tropical rainforest or temperate rainfores ...
s in these coastal lowlands and a reliable source of snow in the mountains to keep the glaciers flowing. These include the Tasman Glacier to the east of the mountain and the smaller Hooker Glacier immediately to its south.
The vegetation in the valleys to the east, in particular the Tasman Valley, is noticeably less lush than that on the western slopes of the mountain. Forest would normally grow to about 1,300 m in this area, but a lack of soil due to scree, rock falls and the effects of glaciation prevent this in most localities around the mountain. Snow tussock and other alpine plants cling to as high as 1,900 m.
Above the snowline, only lichen
A lichen ( , ) is a composite organism that arises from algae or cyanobacteria living among filaments of multiple fungi species in a mutualistic relationship.
The first recorded attempt on the summit was made by the Irishman Rev. William S. Green, the Swiss hotelier Emil Boss and the Swiss mountain guide Ulrich Kaufmann on 2 March 1882 via the Tasman and Linda Glaciers. They came within a few feet of the top, as did the 1890 ascent attempt by Mannering and Dixon.
The first known ascent was on 25 December 1894, when New Zealanders
According to Māori legend, Aoraki was a young boy who, along with his three brothers, were the sons of Rakinui, the Sky Father. On their voyage around the
File:Aoraki peak from Mt Tasman summit NZ Mon 21 March 1983 wideangle.jpg, Aoraki peak from Mt Tasman summit NZ Mon 21 March 1983 wideangle
File:Aoraki peak from Mt Tasman summit NZ Mon 21 March 1983 closeup.jpg, Aoraki peak from Mt Tasman summit NZ Mon 21 March 1983 closeup
Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park homepage
{{DEFAULTSORT:Aoraki Mount Cook Mountains of Canterbury, New Zealand Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park Extreme points of New Zealand Highest points of countries
Climbing history
The first recorded attempt on the summit was made by the Irishman Rev. William S. Green, the Swiss hotelier Emil Boss and the Swiss mountain guide Ulrich Kaufmann on 2 March 1882 via the Tasman and Linda Glaciers. They came within a few feet of the top, as did the 1890 ascent attempt by Mannering and Dixon.
The first known ascent was on 25 December 1894, when New Zealanders Tom Fyfe
Thomas Camperdown Fyfe (23 June 1870 in Timaru – 1947 in Hastings) was a self-taught New Zealand mountaineer from Timaru. He led the first ascent of Aoraki / Mount Cook (the highest mountain in New Zealand) on 25 December 1894, which included Ja ...
, John Michael (Jack) Clarke and George Graham reached the summit via the Hooker Valley and the north ridge. Despite an earlier failed attempt on 20 December, the local climbers were spurred on by their desire for the first ascent to be made by New Zealand mountaineers amid reports that the American mountaineer Edward FitzGerald had his eye on the summit. The party reached the summit at approximately 1:30pm after bounding up the last leg of the mountain full of excitement at reaching the top. The route they had successfully traversed was not repeated again until the 100th ascent over 60 years later in 1955.
Swiss guide Matthias Zurbriggen of FitzGerald's party made the second ascent on 14 March 1895 from the Tasman Glacier side, via the ridge that now bears his name. This is credited as the first solo ascent, although Zurbriggen was accompanied part of the way up the ridge by J Adamson. After Zurbriggen's ascent it was another ten years before the mountain was climbed again. In February 1905 Jack Clarke with four others completed the third ascent following Zurbriggen's route. Clarke therefore became the first person to do a repeat ascent.
The first woman to ascend the mountain was Australian Freda Du Faur on 3 December 1910. Local guide George Bannister, a nephew of another guide, Butler Te Koeti of Ngāi Tahu, was the first Māori to successfully scale the peak in 1912.
A traverse of the three peaks was first accomplished in 1913 by Freda Du Faur and guides Alec and Peter Graham
Alexander Carter Graham (1881–1957) and Peter Graham (1878–1961) were mountaineers, guides and hotel operators in New Zealand. They were instrumental in the establishment of the early New Zealand tourist industry and earned themselves wor ...
. This 'grand traverse' was repeated in January 1916 by Conrad Kain
Conrad Kain (10 August 1883, Nasswald – 2 February 1934, Cranbrook, British Columbia) was an Austrian mountain guide who guided extensively in Europe, Canada, and New Zealand, and was responsible for the first ascents of more than 60 routes in ...
, guiding the 57-year-old Jane Thomson, considered at the time "a marvellous feat unequalled for daring in the annals of the Southern Alps".
Sir Edmund Hillary made his first ascent in January 1948. In February 1948 with Ruth Adams, Harry Ayres and Mick Sullivan, Hillary made the first ascent of the South Ridge to the Low Peak To celebrate the life of Hillary the South Ridge was renamed as Hillary Ridge in August 2011.
Aoraki/Mount Cook is a technically challenging mountain with a high level of glaciation. Its level of difficulty is often underestimated and can change dramatically depending on weather, snow and ice conditions. The climb crosses large crevasses, and involves risks of ice and rock falls, avalanches and rapidly changing weather conditions.
Since the early 20th century, around 80 people have died attempting to climb the mountain, making it New Zealand's deadliest peak. The climbing season traditionally runs from November to February, and hardly a season goes by without at least one fatality.
Māori history, legends and traditions
According to Māori legend, Aoraki was a young boy who, along with his three brothers, were the sons of Rakinui, the Sky Father. On their voyage around the Papatūānuku
In Māori mythology the primal couple Rangi and Papa (or Ranginui and Papatūānuku) appear in a creation myth explaining the origin of the world (though there are many different versions). In some South Island dialects, Rangi is called Raki or Ra ...
, the Earth Mother, their canoe became stranded on a reef and tilted. Aoraki and his brothers climbed onto the top side of their canoe. However, the south wind froze them and turned them to stone. Their canoe became the Te Waka o Aoraki, the South Island
The South Island, also officially named , is the larger of the two major islands of New Zealand in surface area, the other being the smaller but more populous North Island. It is bordered to the north by Cook Strait, to the west by the Tasman ...
, and their prows, the Marlborough Sounds. Aoraki, the tallest, became the highest peak, and his brothers created the Kā Tiritiri o te Moana, the Southern Alps.
Ngāi Tahu, the main iwi (tribe) of New Zealand's southern region, consider Aoraki as the most sacred of the ancestors that they had descended from. Aoraki brings the iwi with its sense of community and purpose, and remains the physical form of Aoraki and the link between the worlds of the supernatural and nature.
Timeline
* 1642 – Aoraki was possibly sighted by Abel Tasman and crew members. * 1770 – Captain Cook named the Southern Alps. * 1851 – Captain John Lort Stokes of the survey ship HMS ''Acheron'' gave the name Mount Cook to Aoraki. * 1894 – The first ascent of Mount Cook took place on Christmas Day, by Jack Clarke,Tom Fyfe
Thomas Camperdown Fyfe (23 June 1870 in Timaru – 1947 in Hastings) was a self-taught New Zealand mountaineer from Timaru. He led the first ascent of Aoraki / Mount Cook (the highest mountain in New Zealand) on 25 December 1894, which included Ja ...
and George Graham.
* 1910 – Freda du Faur became the first woman to climb Mount Cook.
* 1913 – The first ascents of the footstool and Mt Sefton were made by Freda du Faur's climbing party.
* 1914 – The first fatal accident occurred, when three men were caught in avalanche on Linda Glacier.
* 1975 – Four Royal New Zealand Air Force
The Royal New Zealand Air Force (RNZAF) ( mi, Te Tauaarangi o Aotearoa, "The Warriors of the Sky of New Zealand"; previously ', "War Party of the Blue") is the aerial service branch of the New Zealand Defence Force. It was formed from New Zeala ...
personnel were killed during a mountain survival training exercise near the Ball Pass, when they were buried alive by an avalanche.
* 1982 – Mark Inglis was trapped in a snow cave. During his rescue an RNZAF 3 Squadron Bell UH-1H crashed
"Crashed" is the third U.S. rock single, (the fifth overall), from the band Daughtry's debut album. It was released only to U.S. rock stations on September 5, 2007. Upon its release the song got adds at those stations, along with some Alternativ ...
on Mt Cook.
* 1982 – Geoff Wyatt and John Blennehasset achieved the first ski descent from the summit.
* 1991 – An avalanche of 10 million cubic metres of snow and rock caused 10 metres to be lost off the top of Mount Cook. Two decades of erosion of the ice cap exposed after this collapse reduced the height by another 30 m to 3,724 m, as revealed by new GPS data from a University of Otago climbing expedition in November 2013.
* 1998 – The Ngāi Tahu Claims Settlement Act officially recognised the original name, renaming the mountain Aoraki / Mount Cook.
Gallery
See also
* List of mountains of New Zealand by heightReferences
Further reading
* ''In Search of Ancient NZ''. Hamish Campbell and Gerard Hutching. GNS/Penguin. 2011. .External links
Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park homepage
{{DEFAULTSORT:Aoraki Mount Cook Mountains of Canterbury, New Zealand Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park Extreme points of New Zealand Highest points of countries