Anti-aging creams are predominantly
moisturiser-based
cosmeceutical
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical benefits. In America, there are no legal requirements to prove that these products live up to their claims. The name is a portmanteau of "cosmetics" and " ...
skin care products marketed with the promise of making the consumer look younger by reducing, masking or preventing signs of skin
aging. These signs are laxity (sagging), rhytids (
wrinkles
A wrinkle, also known as a rhytid, is a fold, ridge or crease in an otherwise smooth surface, such as on skin or fabric. Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of ageing processes such as glycation, habitual sleeping positions, loss of bo ...
), and
photoaging
Photoaging or photoageing (also known as "dermatoheliosis") is a term used for the characteristic changes to skin induced by chronic UVA and UVB exposure. Tretinoin is the best studied retinoid in the treatment of photoaging.
The deterioration ...
, which includes
erythema
Erythema (from the Greek , meaning red) is redness of the skin or mucous membranes, caused by hyperemia (increased blood flow) in superficial capillaries. It occurs with any skin injury, infection, or inflammation. Examples of erythema not asso ...
(redness), dyspigmentation (brown discolorations), solar elastosis (yellowing),
keratoses (abnormal growths), and poor texture. Anti-aging supplements are a set of ingestible products that are designed to reduce or diminish the effects of
aging. This includes things such as
vitamin supplements
A vitamin is an organic molecule (or a set of molecules closely related chemically, i.e. vitamers) that is an essential micronutrient that an organism needs in small quantities for the proper functioning of its metabolism. Essential nutrie ...
,
powders
A powder is a dry, bulk solid composed of many very fine particles that may flow freely when shaken or tilted. Powders are a special sub-class of granular materials, although the terms ''powder'' and ''granular'' are sometimes used to distin ...
and
teas. They are designed to reduce or diminish the effects of
aging. Many products seek to hide the effects of aging while others claim to alter the body's chemical balances to slow the physical effects of aging. A comprehensive grading scale for anti-aging of the
skin
Skin is the layer of usually soft, flexible outer tissue covering the body of a vertebrate animal, with three main functions: protection, regulation, and sensation.
Other animal coverings, such as the arthropod exoskeleton, have different de ...
has been validated and categorizes skin aging as: laxity (sagging), rhytids (
wrinkle
A wrinkle, also known as a rhytid, is a fold, ridge or crease in an otherwise smooth surface, such as on skin or fabric. Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of ageing processes such as glycation, habitual sleeping positions, loss of ...
s), and the various categories of
photoaging
Photoaging or photoageing (also known as "dermatoheliosis") is a term used for the characteristic changes to skin induced by chronic UVA and UVB exposure. Tretinoin is the best studied retinoid in the treatment of photoaging.
The deterioration ...
, including
erythema
Erythema (from the Greek , meaning red) is redness of the skin or mucous membranes, caused by hyperemia (increased blood flow) in superficial capillaries. It occurs with any skin injury, infection, or inflammation. Examples of erythema not asso ...
(redness), dyspigmentation (brown discolorations),
solar elastosis
Solar may refer to:
Astronomy
* Of or relating to the Sun
** Solar telescope, a special purpose telescope used to observe the Sun
** A device that utilizes solar energy (e.g. "solar panels")
** Solar calendar, a calendar whose dates indicate ...
(yellowing),
keratoses (abnormal growths), and poor texture.
Despite great demand, many anti-aging products and treatments have not been proven to give lasting or major positive effects. One study found that the best performing creams reduced wrinkles by less than 10% over 12 weeks, which is not noticeable to the human eye. Another study found that cheap moisturisers were as effective as high-priced anti-wrinkle creams. A 2009 study at
Manchester University
, mottoeng = Knowledge, Wisdom, Humanity
, established = 2004 – University of Manchester Predecessor institutions: 1956 – UMIST (as university college; university 1994) 1904 – Victoria University of Manchester 1880 – Victoria Univer ...
, funded by the manufacturer of the cream, showed that a proprietary blend of ingredients had a positive effect after six months of daily application when extrapolated to a twelve month basis of comparison. The statistical methods used to show this have been criticized.
Traditionally, anti-aging creams have been marketed towards women, but products specifically targeting men are increasingly common. Marketing of anti-aging products has been criticized as reinforcing
ageism
Ageism, also spelled agism, is discrimination against individuals or groups on the basis of their age. The term was coined in 1969 by Robert Neil Butler to describe discrimination against seniors, and patterned on sexism and racism. Butler d ...
, particularly against women.
According to Toni Calasanti of
Virginia Tech
Virginia Tech (formally the Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University and informally VT, or VPI) is a public land-grant research university with its main campus in Blacksburg, Virginia. It also has educational facilities in six re ...
, anti-aging ads specifically reinforce the belief that older people should look like middle-aged people, and that old age comes with a loss of gender identity.
Ingredients
Anti-aging creams may include conventional moisturising ingredients. They also usually contain specific ingredients claimed to have anti-aging properties, such as:
*
Retinoids (for instance, in the form of
retinyl palmitate
Retinyl palmitate, or vitamin A palmitate, is the ester of retinol (vitamin A) and palmitic acid, with formula C36H60O2. It is the most abundant form of vitamin A storage in animals.
An alternate spelling, retinol palmitate, which violates the - ...
). In various formulations it has been shown to reduce fine lines and pores.
*
Epidermal growth factor, to stimulate cell renewal and
collagen production in the skin, and strengthen elasticity and structure. In various research epidermal growth factor has been shown to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and sagging. It also has healing (wounds and burns) and anti-inflammatory properties when applied to skin.
*
Equol
Equol (4',7-isoflavandiol) is an isoflavandiolThe structures of 7,4’-dihydroxy-isoflavan and its precursors is shown iStructural Elucidation of Hydroxylated Metabolites of the Isoflavan Equol by GC/MS and HPLC/MSby Corinna E. Rüfer, Hansruedi G ...
*
Alpha hydroxy acid
α-Hydroxy acids, or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), are a class of chemical compounds that consist of a carboxylic acid with a hydroxyl group substituent on the adjacent (alpha) carbon. Prominent examples are glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic ac ...
s (AHAs) and
beta hydroxy acid
A beta hydroxy acid or β-hydroxy acid (BHA) is an organic compound that contains a carboxylic acid functional group and hydroxy functional group separated by ''two'' carbon atoms. They are closely related to alpha hydroxy acids, in which the tw ...
s or other
chemical peels
A chemical peel is a technique used to improve and smooth the texture of the skin. Facial skin is mostly treated, and scarring can be improved. Chemical peels are intended to remove the outermost layers of the skin. To accomplish this task, the c ...
. These help to dissolve the intracellular "glue" that holds dead cells together on the skin. The use of this type of product on a daily basis gradually enhances the
exfoliation of the
epidermis. This exposes newer skin cells and can help improve appearance. AHAs may irritate some skin, causing redness and flaking.
*
Peptides, such as
acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline), Matryxil, and
copper peptides.
*
Coenzyme Q10
*
Anti-oxidants are substances that may protect cells from the damage caused by unstable molecules known as free radicals. The studies so far are inconclusive, but generally don’t provide strong evidence that antioxidant supplements have a substantial impact on disease.
*
Sunscreens provide a high level of
UVA protection against the effects of UVA radiation, such as wrinkles.
*
Vitamin C
Vitamin C (also known as ascorbic acid and ascorbate) is a water-soluble vitamin found in citrus and other fruits and vegetables, also sold as a dietary supplement and as a topical 'serum' ingredient to treat melasma (dark pigment spots) ...
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Anti-Aging Cream
Ageing
Skin care
Cosmetics
Anti-aging substances