Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich (21 July 1937 in
Åbowo, central Poland – 27 May 1989 on
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heig ...
) was a Polish
mountaineer
Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...
who made several ascents of
eight-thousander
The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no ...
s. He died in an avalanche on the northwest slopes of
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heig ...
in 1989.
Achievements
Tatra Mts and Alps
Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich undertook many serious climbs including difficult new routes and first winter ascents. Among Polish climbers, the team ''Heinrich-Chrobak'' was held in high prestige and
Eugeniusz Chrobak is still considered one of the best Polish Himalayan climbers of all time. The ''Heinrich-Chrobak team'' was very much the Polish equivalent of the
Bonington-
Whillans team in Britain.
Great Ranges
*1971 –
Kunyang Chhish
Kunyang Chhish or Kunyang Chhish ( ur, ) is the second-highest mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange in the Karakoram mountains in Pakistan. An alternate variation of the name is Kunyang Kish. Its height, also sometimes given as , is ranke ...
(7852 m) – first ascent to the summit (along with
Andrzej Zawada
Andrzej Zawada (born Maria Andrzej Zawada; 16 July 1928 – 21 August 2000) was a Polish mountaineer, pioneer of winter Himalayism. Zawada was an organiser and leader in numerous high-mountains expeditions. Author of movies and photographs ...
,
Jan Stryczyński and
Ryszard Szafirski).
*1974 –
Lhotse
Lhotse ( ne, लà¥à¤¹à¥‹à¤¤à¥à¤¸à¥‡ ; , ''lho tse'', ) is the fourth highest mountain in the world at , after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. The main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu ...
(8250 m) in winter with
Andrzej Zawada
Andrzej Zawada (born Maria Andrzej Zawada; 16 July 1928 – 21 August 2000) was a Polish mountaineer, pioneer of winter Himalayism. Zawada was an organiser and leader in numerous high-mountains expeditions. Author of movies and photographs ...
, the first time anyone had gone above 8000 m in winter.
*1978 –
Kanchenjunga Central (8482 m), first ascent – together with
Wojciech Brański,
Kazimierz Olech.
*1979 –
Lhotse
Lhotse ( ne, लà¥à¤¹à¥‹à¤¤à¥à¤¸à¥‡ ; , ''lho tse'', ) is the fourth highest mountain in the world at , after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. The main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu ...
(8516 m), 4 October, ascent together with
Andrzej Czok
Andrzej Czok (November 11, 1948 – January 11, 1986) was a Polish mountaineer best known for making the first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri on January 21, 1985 with Jerzy Kukuczka, and for the first ascent of the South Pillar route on Mount Evere ...
,
Jerzy Kukuczka
Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (24 March 1948 in Katowice, Poland – 24 October 1989 Lhotse, Nepal) was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. Born in Katowice, his family origin is Silesian Goral. On 18 September 1987, he became the second m ...
and
Janusz Skorek.
*1980 –
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heig ...
, participated in the winter expedition, leading the way by the ''Ice Fall'', and participated in setting up higher camps.
*1981 –
Masherbrum
Masherbrum ( ur, ; formerly known as K1) is a mountain located in the Ghanche District, Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. At , it is the 22nd highest mountain in the world and the 9th highest in Pakistan. It was the first mapped peak in the Kar ...
, SW Peak (7806 m), first ascent, with
Marek Malatyński and
Przemysław Nowacki.
*1985 –
Cho Oyu
__NOTOC__
Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयà¥; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the ''Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur ...
(8201 m), winter expedition, new route via SE Pillar, ascent with
Jerzy Kukuczka
Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (24 March 1948 in Katowice, Poland – 24 October 1989 Lhotse, Nepal) was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. Born in Katowice, his family origin is Silesian Goral. On 18 September 1987, he became the second m ...
(15 February, three days after the ''first winter ascent'' by the team of the same expedition,
Maciej Berbeka and
Maciej Pawlikowski).
*1985 –
Nanga Parbat (8126 m), first ascent of the NE buttress, on the summit together with
Jerzy Kukuczka
Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (24 March 1948 in Katowice, Poland – 24 October 1989 Lhotse, Nepal) was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. Born in Katowice, his family origin is Silesian Goral. On 18 September 1987, he became the second m ...
,
Carlos Carsolio and
SÅ‚awomir ÅobodziÅ„ski.
Sources
*
Józef Nyka: ''Masherbrum Southwest, Ascent and Tragedy''.
American Alpine Journal, 1982, pp. 271–272
* Andrzej Zawada: "Winter at 8250 m: Polish Expedition to Lhotse 1974", Alpine Journal, 1974, pp. 28–35.
* Andrzej Zawada: ''Cho Oyu's Three-Kilometer-High Face''. American Alpine Journal, 1986, pp. 6–13 (with 2 photographs with lines depicted)
* AAJ 1986, p. 290 (note on Nanga Parbat)
External links
AAJ, Searchable online access Strona poświęcona pamięci himalaisty Andrzeja Heinricha (in Polish)
(in Polish)
Polish mountain climbers
Mountaineering deaths on Mount Everest
1937 births
1989 deaths
Deaths in avalanches
People from Płońsk County
Sportspeople from Masovian Voivodeship
Natural disaster deaths in Nepal
{{Climbing-bio-stub