Anak Verhoeven
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Anak Verhoeven (born 15 July 1996) is a Belgian sport climber. Since 2013, she has repeatedly won the Belgian National Championship in lead climbing. In 2016, she ranked first on the IFSC World Ranking List. In 2017, she won both the
World Games The World Games are an international multi-sport event comprising sports and sporting disciplines that are not contested in the Olympic Games. They are usually held every four years, one year after a Summer Olympic Games, over the course of 11 d ...
and
IFSC Climbing European Championships The IFSC Climbing European Championships are the biennial European championship for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Frankfurt in 1992. Championships ...
. Verhoeven is also one of the strongest female sport climbers, and in 2017, became the first-ever woman in history to establish a new route, ''Sweet Neuf''.


Early life

Verhoeven was born in Belgium and started to climb when she was 4 years old, and both her parents were already climbers.


Climbing career


Competition climbing

In 2012, at age 16, she started participating in the Lead Climbing World Cup, and by 2014, had become the Junior European Champion at the Championships in Edinburgh. In 2015, she won the World Youth Championship in Italy, where she competed for the last time as a junior. In the same year, she also participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup, where she ranked fourth. In 2016, she competed at the World Championships in Paris. During the finals, she managed to top the route but fellow competitor
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
also topped and won gold due to countback. In the same year, she also ranked second in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Verhoeven ended the 2016 competition season as number 1 on the IFSC World Ranking List. In 2017, she won both the
World Games The World Games are an international multi-sport event comprising sports and sporting disciplines that are not contested in the Olympic Games. They are usually held every four years, one year after a Summer Olympic Games, over the course of 11 d ...
and
IFSC Climbing European Championships The IFSC Climbing European Championships are the biennial European championship for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Frankfurt in 1992. Championships ...
. In late 2017, Verhoeven was forced to take time off from competition climbing with a serious elbow injury from which she did not fully recover until 2019. In June 2021, Verhoeven announced that she was retiring from competition climbing to focus on her outdoor rock climbing projects.


Rock climbing

In September 2017, she did the
first free ascent In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they en ...
(FFA) of the route ''Sang neuf'', at Pierrot Beach in France, becoming the first-ever woman in history to do an FFA at that grade. She then did the FFA of ''Sweet Neuf'' (links ''Sang Neuf'' with the 25-metere second pitch of ''Home Sweet Home''), and proposed a rating, which in June 2019 was confirmed by on repeating ''Sweet Neuf''. Her ascent of ''Sweef Neuf'' made her the second-ever woman in history to climb a 9a+ route (
Margo Hayes Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998) is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou ( China). In 2017, she became the ...
was first), and the first-ever woman in history to do the FFA of a 9a+ route. In December 2017, Verhoven did the FFA of the 9a/9a+ route ''Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda'' in Spain, making her the first-ever female to do an FFA of a 9a, a 9a/+ or a 9a+ route (
Angela Eiter Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber. She is a champion in lead climbing competitions, winning three IFSC Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, from 2004 to 2006 and four IFSC World ...
did the first-ever female FFA of a 9b route). In November 2019, she climbed her second 9a+, ''Joe Mama'', in Spain. In June 2020, Verhoeven made the FFA of ''Kraftio'', a route that was bolted 15 earlier but had repelled all attempts to scale it; Verhoven graded it 8c+/9a making it Belgium's hardest-ever sport climbing route, which she named in memory of the former Belgian climber
Chloé Graftiaux Chloé Graftiaux (18 July 1987 in Brussels, Belgium – 21 August 2010 in Courmayeur, Italy) was a Belgian competition climber and alpinist who fell to her death on the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif, aged 23. In the 2 ...
.


Personal life

Christian faith is an important part of Verhoeven's life, which she said she inherited from her parents.


Rankings


Climbing World Cup


Climbing World Championships

Youth Adult


Climbing European Championships

Youth Adult


Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup


Lead


Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup


Lead


Notable ascents


Redpointed routes

: :* ''No Pain No Gain'' – Rodellar, Spain – 25 October 2022. First female ascent. :* ''Joe Mam a'' – Oliana, Spain – 7 November 2019. First female ascent. :* ''Sweet Neuf'' – Pierrot Beach, France – 11 September 2017 –
First free ascent In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they en ...
, and first-ever woman in history to create a new route. : :* ''Patxitxulo'', in Oliana, Spain – 9 October 2021. First female ascent. :* ''Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda'' – Santa Linya, Spain – 10 December 2017. First free ascent and first-ever creation of a new 9a/9a+ route by a female in history. : :* ''Esclatamasters'' – Perles, Spain – January 2022 – Verhoeven climbed the route twice on the same day. :* ''Joe Cita'' – Oliana, Spain – December, 2021. :* ''La prophétie des grenouilles'' – Rocher des Brumes, France – July, 2021. :* ''Sang Neuf'' – Pierrot Beach, France – 4 September 2017 – FFA, and first-ever creation of a new 9a route by a female in history. :* ''Era Vella'' – Margalef, Spain – April, 2015. Verhoeven's first 9a. : :* ''Kraftio'', Belgium – 4 June 2020 – First ascent and Belgium's hardest climbing route at the time; named in memory of
Chloé Graftiaux Chloé Graftiaux (18 July 1987 in Brussels, Belgium – 21 August 2010 in Courmayeur, Italy) was a Belgian competition climber and alpinist who fell to her death on the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif, aged 23. In the 2 ...
.


See also

* List of first ascents (sport climbing) *
Muriel Sarkany Muriel Sarkany (born August 5, 1974) is a Belgian professional rock climber who specialized in competition lead climbing where she is known for winning five Climbing World Cups. She also specialized in outdoor sport climbing and is considered the ...
, Belgian female rock climber *
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
, Spanish female rock climber


References


External links

* *
Belclimb.be profile
* *

''PlanetMountain'' La Sportiva ''Living Legends'' Series (November 2022} {{DEFAULTSORT:Verhoeven, Anak Female climbers Belgian rock climbers 1996 births Living people World Games gold medalists Competitors at the 2017 World Games