Agnès B.
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agnès b. (born Agnès Andrée Marguerite Troublé, 1941) is a French
fashion design Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates ...
er known for her self-named brand, which includes fashion and film interests.


Life and early career

Agnès had mixed twins at 19 and she separated from their father :fr:Christian Bourgois at 20. She graduated from
École du Louvre The École du Louvre is an institution of higher education and grande école located in the Aile de Flore of the Louvre Palace in Paris, France. It is dedicated to the study of archaeology, art history, anthropology and epigraphy. Admission is ...
in
Paris Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), ma ...
. A career soon followed when her personal style caught the eyes of ''
Elle ''Elle'' (stylized ''ELLE'') is a worldwide women's magazine of French origin that offers a mix of fashion and beauty content, together with culture, society and lifestyle. The title means "she" or "her" in French. ''Elle'' is considered the w ...
'' magazine staffers at a Paris flea market. Her style of dress at the time, which included selections from France's Monoprix discount chain, was inspired less by fashion than thrift, but the magazine liked what it saw and hired her as a junior editor. With a mind towards designing rather than editing fashion, she left ''ELLE'' after less than two years, preferring apprenticeships even when they paid little and offered no time off. She became a designer, buyer, and press attaché for Dorothée Bis in Paris. She freelance designed for Limitex, Pierre d'Alby, V de V, and Eversbin in the years 1965 and '66. In the latter year, she founded CMC (''Comptoir Mondial de Création''), parent of the agnès b. label. She opened her first boutique in Les Halles in 1975. Formerly a butcher shop, the black and white tiled store had a rustic, communal atmosphere, defined by an indoor swing for children and an impromptu
aviary An aviary is a large enclosure for confining birds, although bats may also be considered for display. Unlike birdcages, aviaries allow birds a larger living space where they can fly; hence, aviaries are also sometimes known as flight cages. Avi ...
(in reality an on-site bird population that over time grew from two to 30). Birds flew free in the cavernous space, built nests and hatched their chicks in the displays. "It was very cool" she says "We were writing on the walls." agnès's friends were her first repeat customers.


Expansion

agnès b. started designing menswear in 1981 after observing men appropriate clothes designed for women. She opened her first international store on Prince Street in New York's
SoHo Soho is an area of the City of Westminster, part of the West End of London. Originally a fashionable district for the aristocracy, it has been one of the main entertainment districts in the capital since the 19th century. The area was develo ...
district in 1983. Her enthusiasm for the city stemmed from her love of the American crime film genre, dubbed film noir in France. This interest extended to the store's decor, which included vintage, oversized
movie posters A film poster is a poster used to promote and advertise a film primarily to persuade paying customers into a theater to see it. Studios often print several posters that vary in size and content for various domestic and international markets. The ...
. The one-sheets would eventually draw the attention of filmmaker
Harmony Korine Harmony Korine (born January 4, 1973, some sources report September 1, 1974)
" Retrieved on 2009-10-26.
is an Ame ...
, who would begin an artistic collaboration with agnès in 1999. agnès b. launched "Le b." perfume in 1987, a
skincare Skin care is a range of practices that support skin integrity, enhance its appearance, and relieve skin conditions. They can include nutrition, avoidance of excessive sun exposure, and appropriate use of emollients. Practices that enhance appea ...
and
cosmetics Cosmetics are constituted mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources, or synthetically created ones. Cosmetics have various purposes. Those designed for personal care and skin care can be used to cleanse or protect ...
line. Over time, her designs would grow to include maternity wear, shoes, and bags. Additionally, agnès b. has designed watches and eyewear for
Seiko , commonly known as Seiko ( , ), is a Japanese maker of watches, clocks, electronic devices, semiconductors, jewelry, and optical products. Founded in 1881 by Kintarō Hattori in Tokyo, Seiko introduced one of the first quartz watches and the ...
and a beauty line for
L'Oréal L'Oréal S.A. () is a French personal care company headquartered in Clichy, Hauts-de-Seine with a registered office in Paris. It is the world's largest cosmetics company and has developed activities in the field concentrating on hair color, ...
. She has shops in London, Amsterdam, Singapore, Taipei, Tokyo, Hong Kong, and New York with more to open in Beijing and Shanghai. agnès b. now operates three stores in the US, all located in New York City. Agnès Troublé says she wants to set an example with her business and social responsibility: 'To me, there is a consistency between the fact that the clothes are made here and what I am, what I do, what I love to do.' She currently supports several associations, including AIDES, ACT UP and
Handicap International Humanity & Inclusion (formerly Handicap InternationalOn January 24th 2018, the global Handicap International network changed its name and became Humanity & Inclusion. This was done "to communicate more effectively on the diversity of its activiti ...
.


Gallery and periodical

In 1984, agnès b. opened the Galerie du Jour in Paris, exhibiting
Graffiti Graffiti (plural; singular ''graffiti'' or ''graffito'', the latter rarely used except in archeology) is art that is written, painted or drawn on a wall or other surface, usually without permission and within public view. Graffiti ranges from s ...
artists such as A-one,
Futura 2000 Leonard Hilton McGurr (born November 17, 1955), known as Futura, and formerly known as Futura 2000, is an American graffiti artist. Biography He started to paint illegally on New York City's subway in the early 1970s, working with other artist ...
, Henry "Banger" Benvenuti, Sharp, and others;
Bazooka Bazooka () is the common name for a man-portable recoilless anti-tank rocket launcher weapon, widely deployed by the United States Army, especially during World War II. Also referred to as the "stovepipe", the innovative bazooka was among the ...
, Bad BC, Echo et Mode2, BBC (Bad Boys Crew), Ash, Skki et Jayonedont, Les Tétines Noires, les Frères Ripoulin. The library-gallery on rue du Jour eventually relocated to rue Quincampoix in the 4th arrondissement. A second library-gallery agnès b. then opened in Japan. The brand also has a periodical on contemporary art called '' Point d'ironie''.


Film interests and production company

agnès b. founded a joint film concern with
Harmony Korine Harmony Korine (born January 4, 1973, some sources report September 1, 1974)
" Retrieved on 2009-10-26.
is an Ame ...
called ''O'Salvation'', under whose banner Korine began production on '' Mister Lonely'' in London in 2006. She also designated an entity for personal projects, christened ''Love Streams'', with the blessing of
Gena Rowlands Virginia Cathryn "Gena" Rowlands (born June 19, 1930) is an American retired actress, whose career in film, stage, and television has spanned seven decades. A four-time Emmy and two-time Golden Globe winner, she is known for her collaborations w ...
, widow of
John Cassavetes John Nicholas Cassavetes ( ; December 9, 1929 – February 3, 1989) was an American actor, film director, and screenwriter. First known as a television and film actor, Cassavetes also helped pioneer American independent cinema, writing and direc ...
, who directed the 1984 film of the same name. Her acts of film patronage include the supplying of completion funds to
Gaspar Noé Gaspar Noé (, ; born 27 December 1963) is an Argentine filmmaker based in Paris, France. He is the son of Argentine painter, writer, and intellectual Luis Felipe Noé. In the early 1990s, Noé along with his wife Lucile Hadžihalilović were ...
for ''
Irréversible ''Irréversible'' () is a 2002 French experimental psychological thriller film written and directed by Gaspar Noé. Starring Monica Bellucci, Vincent Cassel and Albert Dupontel, the plot depicts the events of a tragic night in Paris as two men ...
'' (2002) and to
Claire Denis Claire Denis (; born 21 April 1946) is a French film director and screenwriter. Her feature film ''Beau Travail'' (1999) has been called one of the greatest films of the 1990s, as well as of all time. Other acclaimed works include '' Trouble Ev ...
for '' Trouble Every Day'' (2001), as well as the underwriting of numerous film festivals. She has also directed two documentaries (as Agnès Troublé): ''Une sorte de journal vidéo'' in 2011, and ''Je m'appelle Hmmm....'' in 2013, which entered in competition for the Orizzonti section of the
70th Venice International Film Festival The 70th annual Venice International Film Festival took place in Venice, Italy from 28 August to 7 September 2013. American film director William Friedkin was presented with a lifetime achievement award. Italian film director Bernardo Bertoluc ...
. The brand also has a film production company, ''Love streams productions agnès b''.


Honours

* She was made ''Chevalier'' (Knight) of the
Ordre national du Mérite The Ordre national du Mérite (; en, National Order of Merit) is a French order of merit with membership awarded by the President of the French Republic, founded on 3 December 1963 by President Charles de Gaulle. The reason for the order's estab ...
on 21 May 1985, and promoted ''Officier'' (Officer) in 1997. * She was made ''Chevalier'' (Knight) of the
Légion d'honneur The National Order of the Legion of Honour (french: Ordre national de la Légion d'honneur), formerly the Royal Order of the Legion of Honour ('), is the highest French order of merit, both military and civil. Established in 1802 by Napoleon ...
in 2000.


Notes


"Mother of Reinvention"
by David Hershkovits, ''Paper Magazine'', retrieved April 17, 2006
"Agnès B: Film & Fashion"
by Boyd Davis, Fashion Windows website, retrieved April 18, 2006
agnes b., 2000
interview by Mary Clarke, ''Index Magazine'', retrieved April 17, 2006

Liberté, Égalité, Agnès B. by Laura Jacobs, Vanity Fair September 2011


References


External links

* {{DEFAULTSORT:Agnes B. 1941 births Living people French fashion designers French film producers French women film producers French environmentalists French women environmentalists Chevaliers of the Légion d'honneur Officers of the Ordre national du Mérite High fashion brands People from Versailles French women fashion designers