2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
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The 2019
IFSC Climbing World Championships The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the m ...
, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of
lead Lead is a chemical element with the symbol Pb (from the Latin ) and atomic number 82. It is a heavy metal that is denser than most common materials. Lead is soft and malleable, and also has a relatively low melting point. When freshly cu ...
,
speed In everyday use and in kinematics, the speed (commonly referred to as ''v'') of an object is the magnitude of the change of its position over time or the magnitude of the change of its position per unit of time; it is thus a scalar quanti ...
,
bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help se ...
, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in
Briançon Briançon (, ) is the sole Subprefectures in France, subprefecture of the Hautes-Alpes Departments of France, department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Regions of France, region in Southeastern France. It is the highest city in France at an a ...
,
France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of Overseas France, overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic, Pacific Ocean, Pac ...
. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the
2020 Summer Olympics The , officially the and also known as , was an international multi-sport event held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some preliminary events that began on 21 July. Tokyo was selected as the host city during the ...
.


Medal summary


Medalists


Medal table


Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the
2020 Summer Olympics The , officially the and also known as , was an international multi-sport event held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some preliminary events that began on 21 July. Tokyo was selected as the host city during the ...
, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country. The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are: * , as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could chose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.


Schedule

All times and dates use
Japan Standard Time , or , is the standard time zone in Japan, 9 hours ahead of UTC ( UTC+09:00). Japan does not observe daylight saving time, though its introduction has been debated on several occasions. During World War II, the time zone was often referred to a ...
(
UTC+9 UTC+09:00 is an identifier for a time offset from UTC of +09:00. During the Japanese occupations of British Borneo, Burma, Hong Kong, Dutch East Indies, Malaya, Philippines, Singapore, and French Indochina, it was used as a common time wit ...
)


Bouldering


Women


Men


Lead


Women


Men


Speed


Women

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.


Men

Ludovico Fossali Ludovico Fossali (born 21 May 1997) is an Italian competition speed climber. He competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Men's combined climbing. Career Fossali won several medals at the Italian Climbing Championships, including the speed c ...
won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.


Combined

Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event. In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.


Women


Men


See also

*
IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing for people with disabilities organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female worl ...
*
Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics Sport climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan . Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbi ...


References


External links


Official website

IFSC Youtube Channel with live streams of the events
{{World championships in 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships World Climbing Championships IFSC IFSC International sports competitions hosted by Japan