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The 2018
IFSC Climbing World Cup The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competit ...
was held in 14 locations. There were 22 events: 7
bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help sec ...
, 7
lead Lead is a chemical element with the symbol Pb (from the Latin ) and atomic number 82. It is a heavy metal that is denser than most common materials. Lead is soft and malleable, and also has a relatively low melting point. When freshly cu ...
, and 8
speed In everyday use and in kinematics, the speed (commonly referred to as ''v'') of an object is the magnitude of the change of its position over time or the magnitude of the change of its position per unit of time; it is thus a scalar quanti ...
events. The season began on 13 April in
Meiringen Meiringen () is a municipality in the Interlaken-Oberhasli administrative district in the canton of Bern in Switzerland. Besides the village of Meiringen, the municipality includes the settlements of Balm, Brünigen, Eisenbolgen, Hausen, Prasti, ...
, Switzerland, and concluded on 28 October in
Xiamen Xiamen ( , ; ), also known as Amoy (, from Hokkien pronunciation ), is a sub-provincial city in southeastern Fujian, People's Republic of China, beside the Taiwan Strait. It is divided into six districts: Huli, Siming, Jimei, Tong'an, ...
, China. The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. The winners for bouldering were
Jernej Kruder Jernej Kruder (born December 5, 1990) is a Slovenian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing. In 2018, he won the IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering. Climbing career In 2016 Jernej comp ...
and
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition boulderer. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal. Life Her father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was 9, and she competed in her first world cup aged 17 ...
, for lead
Jakob Schubert Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He was World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing. He has redpointed to . In August 2 ...
and
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
, for speed
Bassa Mawem Bassa Mawem (born 9 November 1984) is a French professional speed climber. He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics.Qualification System – Games of the XXXII Olympiad – ''Sport climbing''; International Federation of Sport Climbing, 15 Marc ...
and
Anouck Jaubert Anouck Jaubert (born 27 January 1994) is a French sport climber competing in speed climbing competitions. In 2017, she won the silver medal in the women's speed event at the World Games held in Wrocław, Poland. Four years earlier, she competed ...
, and for combined
Jakob Schubert Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He was World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing. He has redpointed to . In August 2 ...
and
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
, men and women respectively. The National Team for bouldering was
Japan Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
, for lead
Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
, and for speed
Russian Federation Russia (, , ), or the Russian Federation, is a List of transcontinental countries, transcontinental country spanning Eastern Europe and North Asia, Northern Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, largest country in the ...
.


Highlights of the season

In bouldering, at the World Cup in
Munich Munich ( ; german: München ; bar, Minga ) is the capital and most populous city of the States of Germany, German state of Bavaria. With a population of 1,558,395 inhabitants as of 31 July 2020, it is the List of cities in Germany by popu ...
,
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
of
Slovenia Slovenia ( ; sl, Slovenija ), officially the Republic of Slovenia (Slovene: , abbr.: ''RS''), is a country in Central Europe. It is bordered by Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the southeast, an ...
flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win.
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition boulderer. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal. Life Her father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was 9, and she competed in her first world cup aged 17 ...
and
Akiyo Noguchi is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times. In her home country, she ...
, both of
Japan Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
, were the only athletes who never missed a podium in all 7 bouldering competitions in the season. In lead climbing,
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 7 lead competitions in the season. In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in
Moscow Moscow ( , US chiefly ; rus, links=no, Москва, r=Moskva, p=mɐskˈva, a=Москва.ogg) is the capital and largest city of Russia. The city stands on the Moskva River in Central Russia, with a population estimated at 13.0 million ...
,
Anouck Jaubert Anouck Jaubert (born 27 January 1994) is a French sport climber competing in speed climbing competitions. In 2017, she won the silver medal in the women's speed event at the World Games held in Wrocław, Poland. Four years earlier, she competed ...
of
France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of Overseas France, overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic, Pacific Ocean, Pac ...
matched the world record of 7.32 seconds set by
Iuliia Kaplina Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina (russian: Юлия Владимировна Каплина; born 11 May 1993) is a Russian sport climber who has won multiple speed climbing events and set multiple world records. She was the world record holder in wom ...
of
Russia Russia (, , ), or the Russian Federation, is a List of transcontinental countries, transcontinental country spanning Eastern Europe and North Asia, Northern Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, largest country in the ...
at the
2017 World Games The 2017 World Games ( pl, Igrzyska Światowe 2017), commonly known as Wrocław 2017 (german: Breslau 2017; sli, Brassel 2017), was the tenth World Games, a major international multi-sport event, meant for sports, or disciplines or events withi ...
in Wroclaw. Then at the end of the season, French athletes,
Bassa Mawem Bassa Mawem (born 9 November 1984) is a French professional speed climber. He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics.Qualification System – Games of the XXXII Olympiad – ''Sport climbing''; International Federation of Sport Climbing, 15 Marc ...
and
Anouck Jaubert Anouck Jaubert (born 27 January 1994) is a French sport climber competing in speed climbing competitions. In 2017, she won the silver medal in the women's speed event at the World Games held in Wrocław, Poland. Four years earlier, she competed ...
clinched the overall titles of the season for men and women respectively, making it double speed titles for
France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of Overseas France, overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic, Pacific Ocean, Pac ...
.


Changes from the previous season

For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously in bouldering, topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to ''zones''), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones. Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.


Overview


Bouldering

An overall ranking was determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses were not counted.


Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:


Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:


National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018: ''Country names as used by the IFSC''


Lead

An overall ranking was determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.


Men

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in parentheses) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.


Women

6 best competition results were counted (''not counting points in brackets'') for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.


National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (''not counting results in brackets'').


Speed

An overall ranking was determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.


Men

7 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.


Women

7 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.


National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted ''(not counting results in brackets)''.


Combined

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2018:


Men


Women


Season podium table


Medal table


References

{{Commonscat, Climbing World Cup 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018 in sport climbing