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The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in
The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The women's qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the men's was held the following day at the same location. Women's semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective men's competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.
The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.
In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.
The women's and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the women's on 15 September and the men's on 16 September.
IFSC Climbing World Championship
(results) {{World championships in 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships World Climbing Championships World Climbing Championships September 2018 sports events in Europe International sports competitions hosted by Austria
The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck
Innsbruck (; bar, Innschbruck, label=Bavarian language, Austro-Bavarian ) is the capital of Tyrol (state), Tyrol and the List of cities and towns in Austria, fifth-largest city in Austria. On the Inn (river), River Inn, at its junction with the ...
, Austria
Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
from 6 to 16 September 2018.
The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.
Medal winners overview
Lead
The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The women's qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the men's was held the following day at the same location. Women's semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective men's competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.
Women
101 athletes attended the women's lead competition. In the final penultimate climberJessica Pilz
Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber.
She started competing in 2010, both in lead climbing and bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she a ...
was the first to top the route. Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
came out as the last climber and topped the route as well. As both climbers had the same first tiebreaker by virtue of having topped the semi-final route the ranking was decided by their time on the final route, which Pilz had climbed faster and thus was awarded the gold medal. Bronze went to Kim Ja-in
Kim Ja-in (Hangul: , born 11 September 1988), more widely known in the West as Jain Kim, is a professional climber. She is mainly active in lead climbing and bouldering competitions. She has won the Lead Climbing World Cup three times (2010, 2 ...
.
Men
124 athletes attended the men's lead competition. Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert achieved the same score (36+) on the final route. Innsbruck-born Schubert won the gold medal due to his better tie-breaker, having achieved the better score in the semi-final. The bronze medal went toAlex Megos
Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb on the first try without prior practice or advice) a route graded . He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are not ...
(33.5)
Speed
The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.
Women
94 athletes competed in the women's speed climbing event. Aleksandra Rudzinska (7.56s) won the final of the speed competition over her Polish countrywoman Anna Brozek (7.91s). Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal in the small final against Aleksandra Kalucka, who false started.Men
125 athletes competed in the men's speed competition.Reza Alipour
Reza Alipour Shenazandifard ( fa, رضا علیپور شنازندی فرد, born 29 َApril 1994) is an Iranian speed climber from Qazvin.
He is nicknamed the "Persian Cheetah".
In 2013 at the World Cup in Haiyang, China, he broke the world r ...
(5.630s) won the final against Bassa Mawem (fell). In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (6.028s) won against QiXin Zhong (fell) and thus claimed the bronze medal.
Bouldering
The bouldering event was held over four days. The qualifying took place at Kletterzentrum with the women's qualification held on 11 September and the men's on 12 September. Semi-finals and finals were held at the Olympiaworld on 14 September for the women and 15 September for the men.Women
112 athletes attended the women's bouldering competition. In the bouldering final lead finalistsJanja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
, Akiyo Noguchi, and Jessica Pilz
Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber.
She started competing in 2010, both in lead climbing and bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she a ...
made another appearance. The World Cup bouldering seasonal winner Miho Nonaka
is a Japanese competition boulderer. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.
Life
Her father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was 9, and she competed in her first world cup aged 17 ...
, reigning world champion Petra Klingler, and Stasa Gejo completed the final. Garnbret won gold over Noguchi and Gejo won bronze.
Men
150 athletes attended the men's bouldering competition, making it the largest individual event at the World Championship.Kai Harada
Kai Harada (原田 海 ''Harada Kai''; born May 10, 1999) is a Japanese competition boulderer.
Harada started climbing in 2009 in Osaka. He started competition climbing in 2015, placing in the Youth A Bouldering Championships and the Junior As ...
(4T4z 7 6) won the Gold medal over Jongwon Chon (3T4z 9 10) and Gregor Vezonik (3T4z 9 17). The reigning champion, Tomoa Narasaki
Tomoa Narasaki (楢﨑 智亜 ''Narasaki Tomoa'', born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer.
He started climbing at age 10, together with Sachi Amma, in Sachi's family climbing gym. Previously, he had been train ...
, and the World Cup seasonal winner, Jernej Kruder
Jernej Kruder (born December 5, 1990) is a Slovenian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing. In 2018, he won the IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering.
Climbing career
In 2016 Jernej comp ...
, missed the cut to the final.
Combined
In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.
The women's and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the women's on 15 September and the men's on 16 September.
Women
Men
References
External links
* * IFSCIFSC Climbing World Championship
(results) {{World championships in 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships World Climbing Championships World Climbing Championships September 2018 sports events in Europe International sports competitions hosted by Austria