áo Giao Lĩnh

The (), also known as the (). Folk often call it () or , referred to as , was a traditional cross-collared robe worn by Vietnamese before the 19th century. During the Nguyễn dynasty, it was replaced by the ''áo ngũ thân'' and became obsolete. The was also identical to the cross-collar robe worn by the Han Chinese.

History

Prior to 18th Century

Prior to the18th century, nobles wore the which were Han Chinese clothing. During the Lê dynasty (1428 – 1789 AD), aristocrats wore the .

18th Century

In the 18th century, the Áo Ngũ Thân (the precursor of the ao dai) replaced the in order to meet the clothing requirement decreed by the Nguyen dynasty court during the rule of Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát in 1744 in order to distinguish the clothing worn between the people under his rule from the people ruled by the Trinh Lords. The precursor of the ao dai then became the official clothing for both men and women in the South of Vietnam.

19th Century

In the 19th century, under the rule of Emperor Minh Mang (r. 1820-1841), the clothing in Vietnam was finally standardized throughout the entire country when Emperor Minh Mang decreed that the ao dai had to become the national dress for all the regions under his rule. The ao dai thus became the daily clothing of the Vietnamese.

21st Century

In the 21st century, worn in the 15th century was depicted in a book titled
Weaving a Realm
' published by th
Vietnam Centre
(a non-profit organization which aims to promote the culture and image of Vietnam). The authors of the book mostly consisted of dress makers, artists, stylists, photographers, proof readers and editors (but lacked the presence of historians and archeologists) attempted to reconstruct the ancient clothing worn by Vietnamese through extensive historical research. However, due to the lack of funds, the reconstructed clothing were not made with original materials or techniques.

Gallery

File:Lord Nguyen Phuc Thuan.jpg, Portrait of Prince Tôn Thất Hiệp from the 17th century. He wears a cross-collared robe () which was commonly worn by Vietnamese aristocrats before the 19th century
File:Giảng học đồ.png, (Teaching), 18th century, Hanoi Museum of National History. Scholars and students wear cross-collared gowns () – unlike the buttoned

File:廣南國夷官.jpg, Southern Vietnamese
File:Huang Qing Zhigong Tu - 014.jpg, The Vietnamese civilians in Lê dynasty
File:世界人物圖卷 越南人.jpg, Two women and a child in Hanoi around 1700s.

See also

* Áo viên lĩnh, round neck.
* Áo trực lĩnh, parallel splints.
*Shenyi
*Ruqun

References

External links

Đi tìm ngàn năm áo mũ

{{DEFAULTSORT:Ao giao linh
Vietnamese clothing
Vietnamese words and phrases
History of Asian clothing