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Tailor
A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century. History Although clothing construction goes back to prehistory, there is evidence of tailor shops in Ancient Greece and Rome, as well as tailoring tools such as irons and shears. The profession of tailor in Europe became formalized in the High Middle Ages through the establishment of guilds. Tailors' guilds instituted a system of masters, journeymen, and apprentices. Guild members established rules to limit competition and establish quality standards. In 1244, members of the tailor's guild in Bologna established statutes to govern their profession and required anyone working as a tailor to join the guild. In England, the Statute of Artificers, passed in 1563, included the profession of tailor as one of the trades that could be entered only by serving a term of apprenticeship, typically seven years. A typical tailo ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Frederick Scholte
Friedrich "Frederick" Petrus Scholte (19 July 1865 – 2 December 1948) was a Dutch-born British tailor known for the drape suit, a cut he introduced in the 1930s while a master tailor on London's Savile Row. He was considered a pioneer in 20th-century menswear as tailor to fashion icon Edward VIII from 1919–1948. Early life Scholte was born in Amsterdam to Johann Friedrich Scholte, who was of paternal German descent, and Johanna Cornelia Jacoba van Klaveren. He emigrated to London in the 1880s. Viscount Ridley sponsored his naturalisation process in 1899. Career Scholte operated his own tailoring house on Savile Row in Mayfair, London. He served as an apprentice tailor to the Household Cavalry and adapted three characteristics of their military uniform into: wide shoulders, roomy armholes, and narrow waists. In 1917, '' Tailor & Cutter'' magazine praised the outstanding craftsmanship of Scholte's tailoring at his shop on Savile Row, which overlooked Henry Poole & Co.: ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Neapolitan Tailoring
Neapolitan tailoring was born as an attempt to loosen up the stiffness of Savile Row tailoring, English tailoring, which did not suit the Neapolitan lifestyle or climate. Vincenzo Attolini, the master tailor at London House in Napoli, created the Neapolitan look featuring slim lines, high armholes, and soft-shouldered jackets. His son, Cesare Attolini, helped to promote the Neapolitan silhouette beyond Italy. Characteristics * The Shoulders: the Neapolitan jacket has no shoulder padding. Neapolitan tailors removed the shoulder padding from their jackets to provide more movement freedom. For this reason, the Neapolitan shoulder on informal jackets is sewn like a shirt sleeve (), and it follows the natural curve of the human body rather than giving it shape. This type of sleeve is cut about 10 cm larger than the armhole, and it can be finished with the – that shirring the tailor creates with the extra fabric. This little flair is known as and gives the jacket a "rugged" ap ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Henry Poole & Co
Henry Poole & Co. is a bespoke tailor located on Savile Row in London, United Kingdom. In the 1860s, it is widely-believed to have designed the first modern-style dinner jacket, according to specifications provided by the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII). Some call the company “the founding father of Savile Row”. Its headquarters is at 15 Savile Row. History The business first opened in Brunswick Square in 1806, originally specializing in military tailoring around the Battle of Waterloo. After the death of founder James Poole, it relocated to Savile Row in 1846. Henry Poole ran the business until his death in 1876, after which his cousin, Samuel Cundey, took over. The company has remained in the control of the Cundey family through five generations, with current chairman Simon Cundey having assumed the position after the passing of his father in August 2024. The company holds royal warrants of appointment and supplies the Lord Chamberlain’s office with court dres ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Seamstress At Work
A dressmaker, also known as a seamstress, is a person who makes clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Dressmakers were historically known as mantua-makers, and are also known as a modiste or fabrician. Notable dressmakers * Cristóbal Balenciaga * Pierre Balmain *Coco Chanel *Christian Dior * David Emanuel * Norman Hartnell, royal dressmaker * Elizabeth Keckley, modiste and confidante to Mary Todd Lincoln * Jean Muir, fashion designer * Madame Palmyre, a favorite designer and dressmaker of Eugénie, empress of France * Anna and Laura Tirocchi, Providence, Rhode Island * Isabel Toledo * Madeleine Vionnet * R'Bonney Gabriel, fashion designer and beauty queen of Miss Universe 2022 * Mak Tumang, fashion designer * Michael Cinco, fashion designer * Janet Walker, costumier and dress-making-bust inventor * Charles Frederick Worth Related terms * "Dressmaker" denotes clothing made in the style of a dressmaker, frequently in the term "dressmaker detail ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Apprentices
Apprenticeship is a system for training a potential new practitioners of a trade or profession with on-the-job training and often some accompanying study. Apprenticeships may also enable practitioners to gain a license to practice in a regulated occupation. Most of their training is done while working for an employer who helps the apprentices learn their trade or profession, in exchange for their continued labor for an agreed period after they have achieved measurable competencies. Apprenticeship lengths vary significantly across sectors, professions, roles and cultures. In some cases, people who successfully complete an apprenticeship can reach the "journeyman" or professional certification level of competence. In other cases, they can be offered a permanent job at the company that provided the placement. Although the formal boundaries and terminology of the apprentice/journeyman/master system often do not extend outside guilds and trade unions, the concept of on-the-job train ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Cesare Attolini
Cesare Attolini is a high-luxury menswear brand founded in Casalnuovo di Napoli the 1930s by Vincenzo Attolini, the creator of the Neapolitan tailoring style. Overview Vincenzo Attolini created the Neapolitan silhouette featuring a slim waist, high armholes, generous sleeve-head, and minimal shoulder padding. His son Cesare Attolini established the system to produce at scale and market the brand. The brand is run by Vincenzo Attolini's grandsons Giuseppe and Massimiliano Attolini, who are responsible for the brand's expansion internationally. Shops Retail locations are in Milan on Via Bagutta, Miami Beach at the Bal Harbour Shops, New York City on Madison Avenue, London on Mount Street in Mayfair, Monaco, and Moscow (Tverskaya Street Tverskaya Street ( rus, Тверская улица, p=tvʲɪrˈskajə ˈulʲɪt͡sə), known between 1935 and 1990 as Gorky Street (), is the main radial road, radial street in Moscow. The street runs Northwest from the central Mane ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Juan De Alcega
Juan de Alcega was a 16th-century tailor and mathematician from Basque country, Spain. Life and work Little is known about the life of Juan de Alcega. He was born in the province of Gipuzkoa, probably in the town of Hondarribia. In 1580, he published in Madrid the book entitled ''Libro de Geometría, practica, y traça (Book on Geometry, Practice, and Pattern)'', reedited in 1589. This book is a clear example of the application of mathematics to technology in its first modern states. It was also the subject of studies on philology Philology () is the study of language in Oral tradition, oral and writing, written historical sources. It is the intersection of textual criticism, literary criticism, history, and linguistics with strong ties to etymology. Philology is also de ... by his terminology and by his exposition of the mode of his times. In the introduction to his book, he states that he had some difficulties publishing it due to the resistance of the medieval guild ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Clothes Iron
A clothes iron (also flatiron, smoothing iron, dry iron, steam iron or simply iron) is a small appliance that, when heated, is used to press Clothing, clothes to remove Wrinkle, wrinkles and unwanted creases. Domestic irons generally range in operating temperature from to . It is named for the metal (iron) of which the device was historically made, and the use of it is generally called ironing, the final step in the process of laundry, laundering clothes. Ironing works by loosening the ties between the long chains of molecules that exist in polymer fiber materials. With the heat and the weight of the ironing plate, the fibers are stretched and the fabric maintains its new shape when cool. Some materials, such as cotton, require the use of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds. History and development Before the introduction of electricity, irons were heated by combustion, either in a fire or with some internal arrangement. The said iron was made as a solid piece of ir ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Anderson & Sheppard
Anderson & Sheppard is a bespoke tailor on Savile Row, London, established in the Row in 1906. In 2005, its shop moved to Old Burlington Street and has remained there since. It also sells ready-made menswear from its shop in nearby Clifford Street and online. Since 2004, it has been owned by Anda Rowland who inherited it from her father. Clientele Former clients have included Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Noël Coward, and Bryan Ferry. Anderson & Sheppard kept Prince Charles in double breasted suits for years. In 2004, Tom Ford became a customer of the firm, commissioning suits that would later appear in a ''W'' magazine photo shoot. Female clients have included Fran Lebowitz and Marlene Dietrich Marie Magdalene "Marlene" DietrichBorn as Maria Magdalena, not Marie Magdalene, according to Dietrich's biography by her daughter, Maria Riva ; however, Dietrich's biography by Charlotte Chandler cites "Marie Magdalene" as her birth name . (, ; .... References External links ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
History Of Sewing Patterns
A sewing pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. Before the mid-19th century, many women sewed their own clothing by hand. Factory-produced fabrics were affordable and available in the early 19th century, but easy-to-use dress patterns and sewing machines for the home seamstress were not sold in the United States until the 1850s. Early publications The earliest sewing patterns for the public were published in books, trade magazines, journals, and other periodicals. Full-size pattern sheets suitable for tracing were sometimes included in women's periodicals from around 1770 on. In 1808, ''The Lady's Economical Assistant'' was published in England, providing full-sized sewing patterns that could be traced. Other early pu ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Drape Suit
Drape suits are a British variation of the three-piece suit introduced in the 1930s, in which the cut is full and "drapes". It is also known as the blade cut or London cut. The design of the athletic aesthetic of the drape suit is attributed to the London tailor Frederick Scholte. The new suit cut was softer and more flexible in construction than the suits of the previous generation; extra fabric in the shoulder and armscye, light padding, a slightly nipped waist, and fuller sleeves tapered at the wrist resulted in a cut with folds, or "drapes," front and back that created the illusion of the broad-shoulders and tight-waist "V" figure of the very fit. Historical background Most changes in menswear occur slowly and subtly, until the shift becomes noticeably different. This noticeably different change occurs some time after the transition had begun. In comparison, changes in women's fashions are fast and each alteration noticeable almost immediately as it occurs. English tailoring ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Guilds
A guild ( ) is an association of artisans and merchants who oversee the practice of their craft/trade in a particular territory. The earliest types of guild formed as organizations of tradespeople belonging to a professional association. They sometimes depended on grants of letters patent from a monarch or other ruler to enforce the flow of trade to their self-employed members, and to retain ownership of tools and the supply of materials, but most were regulated by the local government. Guild members found guilty of cheating the public would be fined or banned from the guild. A lasting legacy of traditional guilds are the guildhalls constructed and used as guild meeting-places. Typically the key "privilege" was that only guild members were allowed to sell their goods or practice their skill within the city. There might be controls on minimum or maximum prices, hours of trading, numbers of apprentices, and many other things. Critics argued that these rules reduced free competitio ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
