Reticella
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Reticella
Reticella (also reticello or in French point coupé or point couppe) is a needle lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century. Reticella was originally a form of cutwork in which threads were pulled from linen fabric to make a "grid" on which the pattern was stitched, primarily using buttonhole stitch. Later reticella used a grid made of thread rather than a fabric ground. Both methods resulted in a characteristic geometric design of squares and circles with various arched or scalloped borders. Books of patterns for reticella designed by Federico de Vinciolo (France, 1587) and Cesare Vecellio Cesare Vecellio (c. 1521 – c. 1601) was an Italian engraver and painter of the Renaissance, active in Venice. He was the cousin of the painter Titian. Like Titian, he was born in Cadore in the Veneto. He accompanied Titian to Augsburg in 1548, ... (Italy, probably from the 1590s but printed 1617) were popular and were frequently ...
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Cutwork
Cutwork or cut work, also known as ''punto tagliato'' in Italian, is a needlework technique in which portions of a textile, typically cotton or linen, are cut away and the resulting "hole" is reinforced and filled with embroidery or needle lace. Cutwork is related to drawn thread work. In drawn thread work, typically only the warp or weft threads are withdrawn (cut and removed), and the remaining threads in the resulting hole are bound in various ways. In other types of cutwork, both warp and weft threads may be drawn. Different forms of cutwork are or have traditionally been popular in a number of countries. Needlework styles that incorporate cutwork include broderie anglaise, Carrickmacross lace, whitework, early reticella, Spanish cutwork, hedebo, and jaali which is prevalent in India. There are degrees of cutwork, ranging from the smallest amount of fabric cut away (Renaissance cutwork) to the greatest (Reticella cutwork). Richelieu cutwork in the middle. Eyelet fa ...
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Needle Lace
Needle lace is a type of lace created using a needle and thread to stitch up hundreds of small stitches to form the lace itself. In its purest form, the only equipment and materials used are a needle, thread and scissors. The origins of needle lace date back to the 16th century in Italy, and its origins may be found in the openwork on linen technique called ''reticella''. A variety of styles developed where the work is started by securing heavier guiding threads onto a stiff background (such as thick paper) with stitches that can later be removed. The work is then built up using a variety of stitches—the most basic being a variety of buttonhole or blanket stitch. When the entire area is covered with the stitching, the stay-stitches are released and the lace comes away from the paper. Needle lace is also used to create the fillings or insertions in cutwork Cutwork or cut work, also known as ''punto tagliato'' in Italian, is a needlework technique in which portions of a text ...
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Thread (yarn)
Thread is a type of yarn but similarly used for sewing. It can be made of many different materials including cotton, wool, linen, nylon, and silk. Materials Thread is made from a wide variety of materials. Where a thread is stronger than the material that it is being used to join, if seams are placed under strain the material may tear before the thread breaks. Garments are usually sewn with threads of lesser strength than the fabric so that if stressed the seam will break before the garment. Heavy goods that must withstand considerable stresses such as upholstery, car seating, tarpaulins, tents, and saddlery require very strong threads. Attempting repairs with light weight thread will usually result in rapid failure, though again, using a thread that is stronger than the material being sewn can end up causing rips in that material before the thread itself gives way. Polyester/polyester core spun thread is made by wrapping staple polyester around a continuous polyester f ...
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Linen
Linen () is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is very strong, absorbent, and dries faster than cotton. Because of these properties, linen is comfortable to wear in hot weather and is valued for use in garments. It also has other distinctive characteristics, notably its tendency to wrinkle. Linen textiles appear to be some of the oldest in the world; their history goes back many thousands of years. Dyed flax fibers found in a cave in Southeastern Europe (present-day Georgia) suggest the use of woven linen fabrics from wild flax may date back over 30,000 years. Linen was used in ancient civilizations including Mesopotamia and ancient Egypt, and linen is mentioned in the Bible. In the 18th century and beyond, the linen industry was important in the economies of several countries in Europe as well as the American colonies. Textiles in a linen weave texture, even when made of cotton, hemp, or other non-flax fibers, are also loosely referred to as "linen". ...
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Buttonhole Stitch
Buttonhole stitch and the related blanket stitch are hand- sewing stitches used in tailoring, embroidery, and needle lace-making. Applications Traditionally, this stitch has been used to secure the edges of buttonholes. In addition to reinforcing buttonholes and preventing cut fabric from raveling, buttonhole stitches are used to make stems in crewel embroidery, to make sewn eyelets, to attach applique to ground fabric, and as couching stitches. Buttonhole stitch scallops, usually raised or padded by rows of straight or chain stitches, were a popular edging in the 19th century. Buttonhole stitches are also used in cutwork, including Broderie Anglaise Broderie anglaise (French, "English embroidery", ) is a whitework needlework technique incorporating features of embroidery, cutwork and needle lace that became associated with England, due to its popularity there in the 19th century. History ..., and form the basis for many forms of needlelace. This stitch is well r ...
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Federico De Vinciolo
Federico de Vinciolo or Federico Vinciolo was a sixteenth-century lace-maker and pattern A pattern is a regularity in the world, in human-made design, or in abstract ideas. As such, the elements of a pattern repeat in a predictable manner. A geometric pattern is a kind of pattern formed of geometric shapes and typically repeated li ... designer attached to the court of Henry II of France. He was granted a monopoly on manufacturing lace ruff (clothing), ruffs in France. His book of needlework patterns, ''Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtaicts'', was published in many editions between 1587 and 1623. An unabridged reprint of a 1909 facsimile of this book was issued by Dover Books as ''Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint'' in 1971. References *Montupet, Janine, and Ghislaine Schoeller: ''Lace: The Elegant Web'', . *Vinciolo, Federico: ''Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint'', Dover Books, 1971. External linksOnline facsimile of ''Les ...
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Cesare Vecellio
Cesare Vecellio (c. 1521 – c. 1601) was an Italian engraver and painter of the Renaissance, active in Venice. He was the cousin of the painter Titian. Like Titian, he was born in Cadore in the Veneto. He accompanied Titian to Augsburg in 1548, and seems to have worked as his assistant. Many of Cesare's pictures were ascribed, perhaps knowingly, to Titian. In the Milan Pinacoteca there is a small ''Trinity'' by Cesare. He died in Venice. The crude woodcuts for book assembling contemporary fashion from across the world, ''De gli Habiti Antichi e Modérni di Diversi Parti di Mondo'' published in Venice in 1590 by Cesare as if they were his works, may in fact belong to Christopher Krieger from Nuremberg. They depict the garb, sometimes fanciful and imagined, of individuals, men and women, from Tsars to Tribeswomen from the Arabian Desert to Muscovite nobles to Arabian nobles to Inca nobles.
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Punto In Aria
''Punto in aria'' band, Italy, 1601-50 ''Punto in aria'' (literally “stitch in air”) is an early form of needle lace devised in Italy. It is considered the first true lace because it was the first meant to be stitched alone, and not first onto a woven fabric. It is a closely related needle lace to ''reticella'', and their designs have many similarities when compared side by side. However, the ''punto in aria'' was an important improvement on the ''reticella'' method, and was a breakthrough in needle lace design. History The ''reticella'' was the design that was the catalyst Catalysis () is the process of increasing the rate of a chemical reaction by adding a substance known as a catalyst (). Catalysts are not consumed in the reaction and remain unchanged after it. If the reaction is rapid and the catalyst recyc ... of the transition between fabrics made into lace by subtracting threads after needling, and lace made from scratch without fabric support. The ''reticella' ...
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Aileen Ribeiro
Aileen Ribeiro is a historian of fashion and author of several books about the history of costume. Biography She was educated at King's College, London and at The Courtauld Institute of Art, also in London, where she later became a professor and lectured on the history of dress. She was Head of the History of Dress section at the Courtauld Institute from 1975 till 2009. In 2000 Ribeiro was appointed professor in the History of Art at the University of London where she is now professor emeritus. Works *''Visual History of Costume: Eighteenth Century'' (Batsford, 1983). *''Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe, 1715-89'' (Batsford, 1984; 2nd edition 2002). *''The Dress Worn at Masquerades in England, 1730 to 1790, and Its Relation to Fancy Dress in Portraiture'' (Taylor & Francis, 1984). *''Dress and Morality'' (Batsford, 1986; 2nd edition 2003). *''Female Face'' (Tate, 1987). *''Fashion in the French Revolution'' (Batsford, 1988). *(with Valerie Cumming), ''A Visual History of Costume' ...
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Needle Lace
Needle lace is a type of lace created using a needle and thread to stitch up hundreds of small stitches to form the lace itself. In its purest form, the only equipment and materials used are a needle, thread and scissors. The origins of needle lace date back to the 16th century in Italy, and its origins may be found in the openwork on linen technique called ''reticella''. A variety of styles developed where the work is started by securing heavier guiding threads onto a stiff background (such as thick paper) with stitches that can later be removed. The work is then built up using a variety of stitches—the most basic being a variety of buttonhole or blanket stitch. When the entire area is covered with the stitching, the stay-stitches are released and the lace comes away from the paper. Needle lace is also used to create the fillings or insertions in cutwork Cutwork or cut work, also known as ''punto tagliato'' in Italian, is a needlework technique in which portions of a text ...
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Textile Arts Of Italy
Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns. Textiles are divided into two groups: Domestic purposes onsumer textilesand technical textiles. In consumer textiles, aesthetics and comfort are the most important factors, but in technical textiles, functional properties are the priority. Geotextiles, industrial textiles, medical textiles, and many other areas are examples of technical textiles, whereas clothing and f ...
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