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Piece Goods
Piece goods were the textile materials sold in cut pieces as per the buyer's specification. The piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or produced with a certain length, also called yard goods. Various textiles such as cotton, wool, silk, etc., were traded in terms of piece goods. The prices were determined as per the fabric quality. John Forbes Watson classified Indian textiles into two types: piece goods and loom goods. Piece goods are materials that must be cut and sewn before they can be used, whereas loom goods, such as scarves and Saris, are ready to use after leaving the loom. Production Many Indian clothes were ready to wear after leaving the loom. These were simple pieces of cloth of dimensions suited to the purposes. Lungi, Dhoti, and Sari are few specific examples of drape clothes. Other cloths produced according to specified dimensions are: * Longcloth made at Coromandel Coast was of the length of 37 yards or 37 to 40 yards. * Qutni at Damascus was weaved ...
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Shawls
A shawl (from fa, شال ''shāl'',) is a simple item of clothing from Kashmir, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular or square piece of cloth, which is often folded to make a triangle, but can also be triangular in shape. Other shapes include oblong shawls. History The words "shawl" and "pashmina" come from Kashmir, the northern region of the Indian subcontinent. Sources report cashmere crafts were introduced by Sayeed Ali Hamadani who was an Iranian scholar when he came to Kashmir in the 14th century. He found that the Ladakhi Kashmiri goats produced soft wool. He took some of this goat wool and made socks which he gave as a gift to the king of Kashmir, Sultan Qutbuddin. Afterwards, Hamadani suggested to the king that they start a shawl weaving industry in Kashmir using this wool. That is how pashmina shawls began. The United Nations agency UNESCO reported in 2014 that Ali Hamadani was one of t ...
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Chautar
Chautar or Chaotaer (Cotton cloth) is an old cotton fabric of the Mughal period. The chautar was a  mulmul variety, and the finest mulmul was termed as "Mulmul Shahi" in Hindi and Persian languages. It was produced in Eastern India. Way back, Chittagong was exporting this cloth. Conceivably then cloths were produced in smaller pieces only since the Chautar is described as a piece good. It has been recorded with specific dimensions, i.e., length 12.44 meters and width 77.75 centimeters. Chautar was compared with ''sansuo'', which was a three shuttle cloth, type of fine cotton variety produced at Songjiang . Cloths with similar names "Chowtars" (means four wires) were characterised as cloth made with four warp and weft threads on both sides. "Chautahi" a "four folded cloth" was a quality more often used in the Punjab region. Special mentions * Ma Huan a Chinese voyager also referred Chautar. In the 1431 expedition, he visited Bengal, Chittagong, Sonargaon, Gaur and Calicu ...
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Kente Cloth
Kente ( ak, kente or ''nwetoma''; ee, kete; Dagbani: Chinchini) refers to a Ghanaian textile, made of handwoven cloth, strips of silk and cotton. Historically the fabric was worn in a toga-like fashion by royalty among ethnic groups such as the Ashanti and Ewe. It is also worn by queens, princesses and women of Dagbon. In modern day Ghana, the wearing of kente cloth has become widespread to commemorate special occasions, with highly sought-after kente brands led by master weavers. Due to the popularity of kente cloth patterns, kente print, which is a mass-produced version, is popular throughout the West. Globally, the print is used in the design of academic stoles in graduation ceremonies. Etymology Kente comes from the word ''kenten'', which means "basket" in the Asante dialect of the Akan language, referencing its basket-like pattern. In Ghana, the Akan ethnic group also refers to kente as ''nwentoma'', meaning "woven cloth". Ashanti folklore includes a story where w ...
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Ghalta
was an old Hindustani fabric made of silk and cotton. Additionally, it was given the name " Azamgarh Satinette." According to John Shakespear, Ghalta was also referred to "a thick sort of cloth." Weave Ghalta was a mixed cloth made of silk and cotton yarns. Ghalta had a standard length of 9 yards and a width of 26 inches. The word "Ghalta" derives from the Persian which means "to roll." The cloth was finished with hot cylinders to give it a smooth glazed aesthetic. It was calendered and pressed so firmly on the surface that no cotton yarns could be seen, while the back side of the fabric shows all cotton yarns with little silk. Ghalta has a characterised check pattern that is bound with one, two, or three lines, and the portion in between the one direction may be filled with another (different than the rest of the fabric) coloured silk that creates a combination of checks and stripes. There were more patterns as well. Use Ladies preferred plain Ghalta in pink shades, wh ...
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Northern Circars
The Northern Circars (also spelt Sarkars) was a division of British India's Madras Presidency. It consisted of a narrow slip of territory lying along the western side of the Bay of Bengal from 15° 40′ to 20° 17′ north latitude, in the present-day Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha. The Subah of Deccan (Hyderabab/Golconda) consisted of 22 circars. These northern circars were five in number and the most prominent ones in the Subah. They became British in a protracted piecemeal process lasting from 1758 to 1823, involving diplomacy and financial settlements rather than military conquest. The annexation by the British of the Northern Circars deprived Hyderabad State, the Nizam's dominion, of the considerable coastline it formerly had, assuming the shape it is now remembered for: that of a landlocked princely state with territories in Central Deccan, bounded on all sides by British India. Etymology ''Circar'' was an English spelling of ''sarkar'', a Mughal term fo ...
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Punjum
Punjum (panjam, pŭn′jŭm; pun jum) was a type of Indian cotton cloth. It was produced in the Northern Circars, on the Coromandel Coastal region in South East India. Punjum was a kind of cotton longcloth that was produced in a variety of thread counts. Varieties of punjum Punjum was a woven fabric structure with an unusually strong texture. It was manufactured with a variety of widths from coarser to finer qualities (The finer the threads the greater number of punjums were contained in the breadth up to 40). There were Punjums available with a 120- thread count . A Punjum was regarded as a sign of quality, there were different numbers assigned for different grades ranging from 10,12,14,16, 18 up to 40.The lowest and coarse was called number 10. Later, Baramauhal successfully duplicated an imitation of Punjum which was a cloth with a lower thread count and half the length of the former. It was named Salampore. Dimensions John Forbes Watson used sample 466 to show Punj ...
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Man-cheti
Man cheti was a “ginger yellow” cotton cloth made in India in the 15th century. Made in lengths of fifty feet and a width of four feet or more, it was a closely woven cloth with a sturdy construction. Mentions (Ma Huan's account of Bengal) Chinese translator, voyager and writer Ma Huan Ma Huan (, Xiao'erjing: ) (c. 1380–1460), courtesy name Zongdao (), pen name Mountain-woodcutter (會稽山樵), was a Chinese voyager and translator who accompanied Admiral Zheng He on three of his seven expeditions to the Western Oceans. Ma ... noted ''Man - chê - ti'' in addition to other Indian cotton varieties in his account of Bengal. References Woven fabrics Cotton {{Textile-stub ...
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Muslin
Muslin () is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. It gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq, where it was first manufactured. Muslin of uncommonly delicate handspun yarn was handwoven in the Bengal region of South Asia and imported into Europe for much of the 17th and early 18th centuries. In 2013, the traditional art of weaving '' Jamdani'' muslin in Bangladesh was included in the list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. History In 1298 CE, Marco Polo described the cloth in his book ''The Travels''. He said it was made in Mosul, Iraq. The 16th-century English traveller Ralph Fitch lauded the muslin he saw in Sonargaon. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Mughal Bengal emerged as the foremost muslin exporter in the world, with Mughal Dhaka as capital of the worldwide muslin trade. It became highly popular in 18th-century France and eventually spread ac ...
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Mulboos Khas
Mulboos khas was a special kind of mulmul cloth made for the King and used for Royal clothing in the Mughal Empire. The Mulboos khas was a kind of first-grade muslin exclusively manufactured in Royal Karkhanas (''Mulboos khas kootees'') notedly in places like Dacca, Sonargaon, Jangalbaree. Nur Jahan, the empress, was a great admirer of Dacca muslins. Mulboos khas was the finest and most expensive type of muslin, and it was used exclusively in Imperial use. History Mulboos Khas was an item of gift exchanged between the emperors and nobles. Murshid Quli Khan who was the first Nawab of Bengal was used to send Mulboos khas to Aurangzeb. It was also sent to Delhi for the Royal use. The contemporary quality was "Sarkar-i-Ali," which was used for lower hierarchy. Characteristics Mulboos khas was a piece material with 10 yards X 1-yard dimensions when produced of half-length. It was having 1800-1900 threads in warp. "Malmal khas" was the successor of Mulbool khas. See also ...
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Khasa (cloth)
Khasa (Cossa, Cossaes) was a high-quality variety of calico cloth that was manufactured and used for clothing in the Mughal Empire. Name Khasa or means special. Khasa was termed “kashak” in the Ain-i-Akbari, and was also known as 'jangal klasa' for its fine close weave. Khasa is one of seven cotton cloths named in the Ain-i-Akbari. Features Khasa was a cotton fabric softer than longcloth and more closely woven than muslin. It is described as having been soft and closely woven, with a fine texture. In the 16th-century emperor Akbar's time, khasa was considered to be one of the best and most expensive types of cotton cloth. It was commonly used for turbans in the Mughal era. Dimensions Khasa, like other piece goods, were produced with specific dimensions; regular khasas were having dimensions of 20 x 1 or 1.5 yards. The number of threads was in warp direction were 1400–2800 with the weight of 595 grams /pc (with 2800 threads). Production centers Khasa made in ...
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Sussi (cloth)
Sussi or susi (Soosey, Sousae) was a term for multicolored striped or checked cloth produced in the Indian subcontinent. Sussi was thin handloom fabric made of cotton, silk, or a blend of the two, with colored warp stripes. Punjab region was known for its production and exports during the Mughal period. Sussi was most often made with red and blue, blue and white, or green and white stripes, but other patterns were also produced. The fabric was exported to England, where sousaes were in great demand in the 18th century. Name Sussi was the umbrella term used for all striped fabrics. Texture Sussi was plain fabric with warp vertical stripes. Sussi was produced with cotton, with silk, or with blended cotton and silk. Dimensions The fabric was 10 to 20 yards long and one yard in width. Sussi Types and Production Sussi along with other cotton varieties was produced at Hoshiarpur, Gurdaspur, Peshawar, Lahore, Multan, Amritsar, Ludhiana, Jhang, Shahpur, Jalandhar, Delhi ...
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Salampore
Salampore (salempore) was a kind of cotton cloth produced in India. It had been in use since the 17th century and was exported to Europe and Africa.''There were three staple varieties of cotton cloth manufactured in Coromandel - longcloth , salempores and moris . These three varieties accounted for by far the largest volume of export and were extensively woven in looms from North to South ...''Merchants, Companies, and Commerce on the Coromandel Coast, ...books.google.co.in › books Page 98 Exports Salempores was part of a varied collection of cloths such as long cloth, moris, and cloth with gold thread exported to various foreign locations like Bantam, Manila, and London from the Coromandel Coast. It was also exported to Africa and South America. Production Salampore was produced at various locations of India from north to down south. Pattern It was a colored woven cloth with stripe and check designs. Few sources also describe it as broad white or blue cotton fabric. ...
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