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Oes Sound
Oes or owes were metallic "O" shaped rings or eyelets sewn on to clothes and furnishing textiles for decorative effect in England and at the Elizabethan and Jacobean court. They were smaller than modern sequins. Making and metals Robert Sharp obtained a patent to make gold oes and spangles (another early variety of sequin) in 1575. They were also made from silver and copper. Oes were made either from rings of wire wound around a dowel, or by punching flat rings out of a sheet of metal. Policy makers worried about the supply of precious metal bullion and restricted the making of gold and silver oes and similar products by patent to the Company of Wire Drawers. In July 1624 their manufacture was forbidden for a time. Some London hat band makers were prosecuted and fined in 1631 for the fraud of using gilt copper oes and claiming their wares employed only gold oes and thread. Imitation silver or gold oes sold openly were called "counterfeit oes" or "Alchemy oes", and appear as "Olca ...
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Janet Arnold
Janet Arnold (6 October 1932 – 2 November 1998) was a British clothing historian, costume designer, teacher, conservator, and author. She is best known for her series of works called ''Patterns of Fashion'', which included accurate scale sewing patterns, used by museums and theatres alike. She went on to write ''A Handbook of Costume'', a book on the primary sources on costume study, and ''Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd'', as well as many other books. Arnold was awarded the inaugural Sam Wanamaker Award in 1998. After her death, the Society of Antiquaries of London who had previously made her a fellow, created a grant in her name, as did The Costume Society, which she helped to found. Biography Janet Arnold was born at Duncan House, Clifton Down Road in Bristol on 6 October 1932. Her father, Frederick Charles Arnold was an ironmonger, whilst her mother, Adeline Arnold, was a nurse. She was educated at The Red Maids' School and took a keen interest in clothes based on the ...
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Love Freed From Ignorance And Folly
''Love Freed from Ignorance and Folly'' was a Jacobean era masque, written by Ben Jonson and designed by Inigo Jones, with music by Alfonso Ferrabosco. It was performed on 3 February 1611 at Whitehall Palace, and published in 1616. ''Love Freed from Ignorance and Folly'' proved to be the last masque in which Anne of Denmark, King James I's Queen, performed. Background During the previous six years, the English Court of King James I had established a pattern of staging a major (and expensive) masque in the Christmas season, often on Twelfth Night. James's queen, Anne of Denmark, was a prime mover is these entertainments, and repeatedly performed in them herself, as in the masques of ''Blackness'' ( 1605), ''Beauty'' (1608), and ''Queens'' ( 1609). 1611 saw a divergence from this pattern: the major masque of that season was ''Oberon, the Faery Prince,'' which starred Anne's and James's eldest son Henry Frederick, Prince of Wales. Anne got a masque of her own a month later, ...
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16th-century Fashion
The 16th century begins with the Julian year 1501 ( MDI) and ends with either the Julian or the Gregorian year 1600 ( MDC) (depending on the reckoning used; the Gregorian calendar introduced a lapse of 10 days in October 1582). The 16th century is regarded by historians as the century which saw the rise of Western civilization and the Islamic gunpowder empires. The Renaissance in Italy and Europe saw the emergence of important artists, authors and scientists, and led to the foundation of important subjects which include accounting and political science. Copernicus proposed the heliocentric universe, which was met with strong resistance, and Tycho Brahe refuted the theory of celestial spheres through observational measurement of the 1572 appearance of a Milky Way supernova. These events directly challenged the long-held notion of an immutable universe supported by Ptolemy and Aristotle, and led to major revolutions in astronomy and science. Galileo Galilei became a champion ...
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Bertrand De Salignac De La Mothe-Fénelon
Bertrand de Salignac de la Mothe-Fénelon (1523-1589) was French diplomat who served as ambassador to Elizabeth I in England and to James VI in Scotland. Mothe-Fénelon and Mary, Queen of Scots Mothe-Fénelon was secretary to the French ambassador Gilles de Noailles during the crisis of the Scottish Reformation in 1560. After serving in the army he was sent ambassador to England in 1568. At the request of Charles IX of France he endeavoured to excuse to Elizabeth the St. Bartholomew's Day massacre as a necessity caused by a plot which had been laid against the life of the king. While in England, Mothe-Fénelon corresponded with Mary, Queen of Scots on political matters. He also bought textiles and sewing matereials for her, and advised on potential gifts for Elizabeth. In 1574 Mary, Queen of Scots embroidered an incarnate satin skirt with silver thread using materials bought in London by Mothe-Fénelon. She soon wrote for more incarnate silk thread, better quality thinner si ...
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Mary, Queen Of Scots
Mary, Queen of Scots (8 December 1542 – 8 February 1587), also known as Mary Stuart or Mary I of Scotland, was Queen of Scotland from 14 December 1542 until her forced abdication in 1567. The only surviving legitimate child of James V of Scotland, Mary was six days old when her father died and she inherited the throne. During her childhood, Scotland was governed by regents, first by the heir to the throne, James Hamilton, Earl of Arran, and then by her mother, Mary of Guise. In 1548, she was betrothed to Francis, the Dauphin of France, and was sent to be brought up in France, where she would be safe from invading English forces during the Rough Wooing. Mary married Francis in 1558, becoming queen consort of France from his accession in 1559 until his death in December 1560. Widowed, Mary returned to Scotland in August 1561. Following the Scottish Reformation, the tense religious and political climate that Mary encountered on her return to Scotland was further agitated by pro ...
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Knole
Knole () is a country house and former archbishop's palace owned by the National Trust. It is situated within Knole Park, a park located immediately to the south-east of Sevenoaks in west Kent. The house ranks in the top five of England's largest houses, under any measure used, occupying a total of four acres. The current house dates back to the mid-15th century, with major additions in the 16th and, particularly, the early 17th centuries. Its grade I listing reflects its mix of late-medieval to Stuart structures and particularly its central façade and state rooms. In 2019 an extensive conservation project, "Inspired by Knole", was completed to restore and develop the structures of the buildings and thus help to conserve its important collections. The surrounding deer park has also survived with varying degrees of management in the 400 years since 1600. History Location Knole is located at the southern end of Sevenoaks, in the Weald of west Kent. To the north, the lan ...
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Mary Mildmay Fane, Countess Of Westmorland
Mary Fane, Countess of Westmorland ( Mildmay; c. 1582 – 9 April 1640) continued her mother Grace Mildmay's interest in physic and was a significant author of spiritual guidance and writer of letters. Family background Mary was the daughter and eventual sole heiress of Sir Anthony Mildmay (d. 1617), of Apethorpe Palace, Northamptonshire, and Grace Sherington (1552–1620), who was daughter and co-heir of Sir Henry Sherington (''alias'' Sharington) (c. 1518-1581) of Lacock Abbey, Wiltshire. Mary built an imposing monument to her parents at Apethorpe Church in 1621, the sculpture attributed to Maximilian Colt. On 15 February 1598/99, Mary married Francis Fane, and he became the Earl of Westmorland. Writing and Letters Mary Mildmay Fane collated and transcribed her mother's medical works, a bequest of over 2,000 sheets of paper. Grace had dedicated her volume of 'Spiritual Meditations' to Mary, writing of scripture as a gift to "Mary, the Lady Fane, wife of the Honourable K ...
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Francis Fane, 1st Earl Of Westmorland
Francis Fane, 1st Earl of Westmorland (1 February 158023 March 1629), (styled Sir Francis Fane between 1603 and 1624) of Mereworth in Kent and of Apethorpe in Northamptonshire was an English landowner and politician who sat in the House of Commons between 1601 and 1624 and then was raised to the Peerage as Earl of Westmorland. Origins He was the eldest surviving son and heir of Sir Thomas Fane (died 1589) of Badsell in the parish of Tudeley in Kent, by his second wife Mary Neville, suo jure Baroness le Despenser (c. 1554–1626), heiress of Mereworth in Kent, sole daughter and heiress of Henry Nevill, 6th Baron Bergavenny (died 1587) (a descendant of Ralph Neville, 1st Earl of Westmorland (c.1364-1425)) by his wife Lady Frances Manners, 3rd daughter of Thomas Manners, 1st Earl of Rutland. The earliest proven recorded ancestor of the Fane family of Kent is "Henry a Vane" (d.1456/7) of Tonbridge, Kent, thrice-great-grandfather of Francis Fane, 1st Earl of Westmorland. Accordin ...
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Naworth Castle
Naworth Castle, also known or recorded in historical documents as "Naward", is a castle in Cumbria, England, near the town of Brampton. It is adjacent to the A69, about east of Brampton. It is on the opposite side of the River Irthing to, and just within sight of, Lanercost Priory. It was the seat of the Barons Dacre and is now that of their cognatic descendants, the Earls of Carlisle. It is a Grade I listed building. History The castle is thought to have late 13th-century origins, in the form of a square keep and bailey. It was first mentioned in 1323, and in 1335, a licence to crenellate was granted to Ralph Dacre. Thomas Dacre (1467–1525), who commanded the reserve of the English army at the Battle of Flodden and was known as "the Builder Dacre", built the castle's gateway and placed over it his coat of arms with the Dacre family motto below: ''Fort en Loialte'' (Norman-French: "Strong in Loyalty"). It is likely that the 18th-century walled garden lies within the bou ...
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Lord William Howard
Lord William Howard (19 December 1563 – 7 October 1640) was an English nobleman and antiquary, sometimes known as "Belted or Bauld (bold) Will". Early life Howard was born on 19 December 1563 at Audley End in Essex. He was the third son of Thomas Howard, 4th Duke of Norfolk, and, his second wife, Margaret (née Audley) Dudley. His elder brother was Lord Thomas Howard, later 1st Earl of Suffolk and his sister was Lady Margaret Howard (wife of Robert Sackville, 2nd Earl of Dorset). His father, who was executed in 1572, had previously been married to his mother's cousin, Lady Mary FitzAlan, second daughter and sole heiress, in her issue, of Henry FitzAlan, 19th Earl of Arundel and Lady Katherine Grey (second daughter of Thomas Grey, 2nd Marquess of Dorset). From that marriage, Lord William had one elder half-brother, Philip Howard, 20th Earl of Arundel. After his mother's death around 1563, his father married, thirdly, Elizabeth (née Leyburne) Dacre (widow of Thomas Dacre ...
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Henry Hawkins (Jesuit)
Henry Hawkins (1577 – 18 August 1646) was an English Jesuit writer. His best known work is the emblem book ''Partheneia Sacra: Or the Mysterious and Delicious Garden of the Sacred Parthenes'' (originally published in 1633; reprinted in 1950 and again in 1971). Life Henry was the son of Sir Thomas Hawkins and Anne Pettyt. He was baptized in Boughton under Blean on 8 October 1577. He married Aphra Norton in February 1604, and was widowed in January 1605. Hawkins entered the English College, Rome, as a mature student on 19 March 1609, was ordained on 25 March 1614, and entered the Society of Jesus in 1615. After serving many years on the English Mission he died in Ghent on 18 August 1646. Works * ''History of S. Elizabeth'' (Rouen, 1632) * ''The admirable life of S. Aldegond'' (1632), a translation of ''La vie admirable de la princesse Ste. Aldegonde'' by Etienne Binet * ''Partheneia Sacra'' (Rouen, 1633) * ''The Devout Heart'' (Rouen, 1634), a translation of ''Le coeur dévot'' ...
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The Memorable Masque Of The Middle Temple And Lincoln's Inn
''The Memorable Masque of the Middle Temple and Lincoln's Inn'' was a Jacobean era masque, written by George Chapman, and with costumes, sets, and stage effects designed by Inigo Jones. It was performed in the Great Hall of Whitehall Palace on 15 February 1613, as one item in the elaborate festivities surrounding the marriage of Princess Elizabeth, daughter of King James I, to Frederick V, Elector Palatine in the Rhineland. Exoticism The masque had a Virginia theme; Chapman had been a follower of the Prince of Wales, Prince Henry, before Henry's death in November 1612, and Henry had been a strong backer of the movement to colonize the New World. The principal masquers were stylized as Native Americans, "Princes of Virginia" and "sun priests"," though without much representative accuracy: they were dressed in "cloth of silver embroidered with gold," with olive-colored masks, though they were also lavishly feathered and equipped with ornaments "imitating Indian work" †...
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