Narrowcloth
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Narrowcloth
Narrow cloth or narrow-loom cloth is cloth of a comparatively narrow width. Ergonomics historically limited the practical width that can be woven by a single weaver on a handloom; the weaver had to reach both edges of the cloth to throw the shuttle through the shed. Wider widths had to be woven with a person on each side, throwing the shuttle back and forth between them, or, later, with a flying shuttle. Narrow cloth was also a trading term for woolen cloths. Narrow cloths were distinguished in width from broadcloth. The narrow cloths were different types of fabric woven over a relatively narrow loom and therefore had a narrower width. Different sources describe distinctive widths for narrow cloths as a rule width more than two yards was called broadcloth and less than one yard (36 inches), narrow cloth. Narrow cloth was also designated with width less than 29 inches. ''Narrow ware articles'' and ''Narrow ware woven'' were alternate terms of narrow fabrics. Types * Geringsing, ...
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Weaving Demonstrated On A Historic Loom In Leiden
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. (''Weft'' is an Old English word meaning "that which is woven"; compare ''leave'' and ''left''.) The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques that can be done without looms. The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products ar ...
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Ergonomics
Human factors and ergonomics (commonly referred to as human factors) is the application of psychological and physiological principles to the engineering and design of products, processes, and systems. Four primary goals of human factors learning are to reduce human error, increase productivity, and enhance safety, system availability, and comfort with a specific focus on the interaction between the human and the engineered system. The field is a combination of numerous disciplines, such as psychology, sociology, engineering, biomechanics, industrial design, physiology, anthropometry, interaction design, visual design, user experience, and user interface design. Human factors research employs methods and approaches from these and other knowledge disciplines to study human behavior and generate data relevant to the four primary goals above. In studying and sharing learning on the design of equipment, devices, and processes that fit the human body and its cognitive abilities, t ...
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Shuttle (weaving)
A shuttle is a tool designed to neatly and compactly store a holder that carries the thread of the weft yarn while weaving with a loom. Shuttles are thrown or passed back and forth through the shed, between the yarn threads of the warp in order to weave in the weft. The simplest shuttles, known as "stick shuttles", are made from a flat, narrow piece of wood with notches on the ends to hold the weft yarn. More complicated shuttles incorporate bobbins or pirns. In the United States, shuttles are often made of wood from the flowering dogwood, because it is hard, resists splintering, and can be polished to a very smooth finish. In the United Kingdom shuttles were usually made of boxwood, cornel, or persimmon. Flying shuttle Shuttles were originally passed back and forth by hand. However, John Kay invented a loom in 1733 that incorporated a flying shuttle. This shuttle could be thrown through the warp, which allowed much wider cloth to be woven much more quickly and made the develo ...
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Shed (weaving)
In weaving, the shed is the temporary separation between upper and lower warp yarns through which the weft is woven. The shed is created to make it easy to interlace the weft into the warp and thus create woven fabric. Most types of looms have some sort of device which separates some of the warp threads from the others. This separation is called the shed, and allows for a shuttle carrying the weft thread to move through the shed perpendicular to the warp threads. Which threads are raised and which are lowered are changed after each pass of the shuttle. The process of weaving can be simplified to a series of four steps: the shed is raised, the shuttle is passed through, the shed is closed, and the weft thread is beaten into place. These steps are then repeated, with a different set of threads being raised so as to interlace the warp and weft. The term ''shedding'' refers to the action of creating a shed. A ''shedding device'' is the device used to raise or open the shed. Creating ...
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Flying Shuttle
The flying shuttle was one of the key developments in the industrialization of weaving during the early Industrial Revolution. It allowed a single weaver to weave much wider fabrics, and it could be mechanized, allowing for automatic machine looms. The flying shuttle, which was patented by John Kay (1704– c. 1779) in 1733, greatly sped up the previous hand process and halved the labour force. Where a broad-cloth loom previously required a weaver on each side, it could now be worked by a single operator. Until this point, the textile industry had required four spinners to service one weaver. Kay's innovation, in wide use by the 1750s, greatly increased this disparity. History The device appears to have been invented in the region of Languedoc of southern France one year before its purported invention in England, but was destroyed by state cloth inspectors of the rent-seeking Ancien Regime. Operation In a typical frame loom, as used previous to the invention of the flying shu ...
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Broadcloth
Broadcloth is a dense, plain woven cloth, historically made of wool. The defining characteristic of broadcloth is not its finished width but the fact that it was woven much wider (typically 50 to 75% wider than its finished width) and then heavily milled (traditionally the cloth was worked by heavy wooden trip hammers in hot soapy water) in order to shrink it to the required width. The effect of the milling process is to draw the yarns much closer together than could be achieved in the loom and allow the individual fibres of the wool to bind together in a felting process, which results in a dense, blind face cloth with a stiff drape which is highly weather-resistant, hard wearing and capable of taking a cut edge without the need for being hemmed. The manufacturing process originates from Flanders, the type of cloth was also made in Leiden and several parts of England at the end of the medieval period. The raw material was short staple wool, carded and spun into yarn and then ...
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Alnage
Alnage, or aulnage (from Old French ''aune'', ell; parallel to " yardage") was the official supervision of the shape and quality of manufactured woolen cloth. Origins The alnage was first ordered in 1196, during the reign of Richard I, that "woollen cloths, wherever they are made, shall be of the same width, to wit, of two ells within the lists, and of the same goodness in the middle and sides." This ordinance is usually known as the Assize of Measures or the Assize of Cloth. Article 35 of Magna Carta re-enacted the Assize of Cloth, and in the reign of Edward I an official called an "alnager" or "aulnager" was appointed to enforce it. His duty was to measure each piece of cloth, and to affix a stamp to show that it was of the necessary size and quality. This cites: * W. J. Ashley, ''Economic History'' * W. Cunningham, ''Growth of English Industry and Commerce'' If faulty, the cloth was forfeit to the crown.S H Steinberg ed., ''A New Dictionary of British History'' (London 196 ...
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Geringsing
Geringsing is a ''Tenun'' textile created by the double ikat method in the Bali Aga village of Tenganan Pegeringsingan in Bali. The demanding technique is only practiced in parts of India, Japan and Indonesia. In Indonesia it is confined to the village of Tenganan. According to textile expert John Guy, "the ancestry of Balinese ''geringsing'' is far from clear, although some cloths display the unmistakable influence of ''patola''", the silk double ikats produced in Gujarat during the height of the Spice Trade (16-17C). Many of these imported cloths became the inspiration for later locally-made textiles, but one theory is that the Balinese-made cloths were exported to India and copied there for production to Asian markets. Many have unique Hindu motifs such as a bird's eye view of a mandala with a sacred center from which everything radiates. Others feature designs clearly inspired by ''patola'', for example a design known as the frangipani flower (''Jepun''). The palette of ' ...
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Tanmono
A is a bolt of traditional Japanese narrow-loomed cloth. It is used to make traditional Japanese clothes, textile room dividers, sails, and other traditional cloth items. ( is a placeholder name) are woven in units of , a traditional unit of measurement for cloth roughly analogous to the bolt, about by about . One kimono takes one () of cloth to make. are woven in the narrow widths most ergonomic for a single weaver (at a handloom without a flying shuttle). Fibers may be woven of a variety of fibers, including silk, wool, hemp, linen and cotton. Polyester is also popular, as it is easy to wash at home. In the Jomon period (8000–300BC) people made twined textiles from a variety of bast fibers from wild plants. Wild fibers () include the inner bark of wild trees or shrubs (), and grass fibers (). Between the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC, immigrants from the mainland began using the domesticated long-stapled ramie plant. Silk was also known at this time, but used on ...
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