Long Draw
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Long Draw
Long draw is the spinning (textiles), spinning technique used to create woolen yarns. It is spun from carding, carded rolags. It is generally spun from shorter staple (wool), stapled fibers. Long draw spun yarns are light, lofty, stretchy, soft, and full of air, thus they are good insulators,Huebscher Rhoades, Carol. "Spinning Basics: The Long Draw." ''SpinOff'' Winter 2004: 74-76. and make good knitting yarns. Long draw spinning is most often contrasted to the short draw (spinning), short draw technique used to spin worsted yarns. Technique The first step to spin a true woolen yarn is to card the fiber into a rolag using carding#Hand carders, handcarders. The rolag is spun without much stretching of the fibers from the cylindrical configuration. The hand holding the fiber is the active hand, and the one closer to the wheel is passive. The passive hand smooths yarn, picks out vegetable matter, and pulls out extra bits of fluff,Huebscher Rhoades, Carol. "Spinning Basics: The Lon ...
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Rolag
A rolag (Scottish Gaelic: roileag) is a roll of fibre generally used to spin woollen Woolen (American English) or woollen (Commonwealth English) is a type of yarn made from carded wool. Woolen yarn is soft, light, stretchy, and full of air. It is thus a good insulator, and makes a good knitting yarn. Woolen yarn is in contrast t ... yarn. A rolag is created by first carding the fibre, using handcards, and then by gently rolling the fibre off the cards. If properly prepared, a rolag will be uniform in width, distributing the fibres evenly. The word derives from the Scottish Gaelic word for a small roll. Animal fibres have traditionally been used to create rolags, but today's spinners use many different fibre materials, including manufactured and plant fibres. References {{Spinning Spinning Fibers ...
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Spinning (textiles)
Spinning is a twisting technique to form yarn from fibers. The fiber intended is drawn out, twisted, and wound onto a bobbin. A few popular fibers that are spun into yarn other than cotton, which is the most popular, are viscose (the most common form of rayon), and synthetic polyester. Originally done by hand using a spindle whorl, starting in the 500s AD the spinning wheel became the predominant spinning tool across Asia and Europe. The spinning jenny and spinning mule, invented in the late 1700s, made mechanical spinning far more efficient than spinning by hand, and especially made cotton manufacturing one of the most important industries of the Industrial Revolution. Process The yarn issuing from the drafting rollers passes through a thread-guide, round a Ring spinning#How it works, traveller that is free to rotate around a ring, and then onto a tube or bobbin, which is carried on to a Spindle (textiles), spindle, the axis of which passes through a center of the ring. The spin ...
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Woolen
Woolen (American English) or woollen (Commonwealth English) is a type of yarn made from carded wool. Woolen yarn is soft, light, stretchy, and full of air. It is thus a good insulator, and makes a good knitting yarn. Woolen yarn is in contrast to worsted yarn, in which the fibers are combed to lie parallel rather than carded, producing a hard, strong yarn.Burnham (1980), p. 191 Commercial manufacture The woolen and worsted process both require that the wool (and other similar animal fibres, cashmere, camel, etc.) be cleaned before mechanical processing. Woolen and worsted nomenclatures apply only to the textile processing of animal fibres, but it has become common to include fibre blends under these terms. The resultant fabrics will be classified as being either woolen or worsted, but this designation is assigned during fiber processing and yarn formation, not in the cloth or finished garment. A woven woolen fabric is one which is subjected to fabric finishing techniques de ...
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Yarn
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for needlework. Yarn can be made of a number of natural or synthetic materials, and comes in a variety of colors and thicknesses (referred to as "weights"). Although yarn may be dyed different colours, most yarns are solid coloured with a uniform hue. Etymology The word yarn comes from Middle English, from the Old English ''gearn'', akin to Old High German ''garn'', "yarn," Dutch "garen," Italian ''chordē'', "string," and Sanskrit ''hira'', "band." History The human production of yarn is known to have existed since the Stone Age and earlier prehistory, with ancient fiber mat ...
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Carding
Carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver (textiles), sliver suitable for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibres between differentially moving surfaces covered with "card clothing", a firm flexible material embedded with metal pins. It breaks up locks and unorganised clumps of fibre and then aligns the individual fibres to be parallel with each other. In preparing wool fibre for spinning, carding is the step that comes after teasing. The word is derived from the Latin meaning thistle or Dipsacus, teasel, as dried vegetable teasels were first used to comb the raw wool before technological advances led to the use of machines. Overview These ordered fibres can then be passed on to other processes that are specific to the desired end use of the fibre: Cotton mill, Cotton, Batting (material), batting, felt, woollen or worsted yarn, etc. Carding can also be used to create blends of dif ...
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Rolag
A rolag (Scottish Gaelic: roileag) is a roll of fibre generally used to spin woollen Woolen (American English) or woollen (Commonwealth English) is a type of yarn made from carded wool. Woolen yarn is soft, light, stretchy, and full of air. It is thus a good insulator, and makes a good knitting yarn. Woolen yarn is in contrast t ... yarn. A rolag is created by first carding the fibre, using handcards, and then by gently rolling the fibre off the cards. If properly prepared, a rolag will be uniform in width, distributing the fibres evenly. The word derives from the Scottish Gaelic word for a small roll. Animal fibres have traditionally been used to create rolags, but today's spinners use many different fibre materials, including manufactured and plant fibres. References {{Spinning Spinning Fibers ...
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Staple (wool)
A wool staple is a cluster or lock of wool fibres and not a single fibre. For Staple (textiles), other textiles, the staple, having evolved from its usage with wool, is a measure of the quality of the fibre with regard to its length or fineness. Etymology Of uncertain origin but possibly a back-formation arising because part of the business of a wool-stapler was Wool classing, to sort and class the wool according to Wool measurement, quality. Staple strength Staple strength is calculated as the force required to break per unit staple thickness, expressed as newtons per kiloUnits of textile measurement#Tex, tex. The staple strength of wool is one of the major determining factors of the sale price of greasy wool. Virtually all fleece and better grade wool skirtings sold at auction in Australia are objectively measured prior to the sale with the average results printed in a catalogue. At least 40 staples must be measured to in order to conform to the Australian Standard. Wools u ...
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Knitting
Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile, or fabric. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. Knitting creates stitches: loops of yarn in a row, either flat or in ''the round'' (tubular). There are usually many ''active stitches'' on the knitting needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of connected loops that intermesh with the next and previous rows. As each row is formed, each newly created loop is pulled through one or more loops from the prior row and placed on the ''gaining needle so'' that the loops from the prior row can be pulled off the other needle without unraveling. Differences in yarn (varying in fibre type, ''weight'', uniformity and ''twist''), needle size, and stitch type allow for a variety of knitted fabrics with different properties, including color, texture, thickness, heat retention, water resistance, and integrity. A small sample of kn ...
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Short Draw (spinning)
Fat draw is the spinning technique used to create worsted yarns. It is spun from combed roving, slivers or wool top – anything with the fibers all lined up parallel to the yarn. It is generally spun from long stapled fibers. Short draw spun yarns are smooth, strong, sturdy yarns, and dense. Huebscher Rhoades, Carol. "Spinning Basics: The Short Draw." ''SpinOff'' Spring 2005: 30–31. Short draw spun yarns also tend to not be very elastic. These characteristics make them good for use in weaving. Short draw spinning is most often contrasted to the long draw technique used to spin woolen yarns. Technique The two main characteristics of the short draw technique is that the spinner keeps their hands close to each other, at slightly more than the distance of the fiber length or staple length, and that the twist is kept between the second hand and the wheel – there is never any twist between the two hands. There are three subtypes within the short draw technique, depending on ...
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Worsted
Worsted ( or ) is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk. That village, together with North Walsham and Aylsham, formed a manufacturing centre for yarn and cloth in the 12th century, when pasture enclosure and liming rendered the East Anglian soil too rich for the older agrarian sheep breeds. In the same period, many weavers from the County of Flanders moved to Norfolk. "Worsted" yarns/fabrics are distinct from woollens (though both are made from sheep's wool): the former is considered stronger, finer, smoother, and harder than the latter. Worsted was made from the long-staple pasture wool from sheep breeds such as Teeswaters, Old Leicester Longwool and Romney Marsh. Pasture wool was not carded; instead it was washed, gilled and combed (using heated long-tooth metal combs), oiled and finally spun. When woven, worsteds were scoured but not fulled. ...
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