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Breaking Wave
In fluid dynamics, a breaking wave or breaker is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which large amounts of wave energy transform into Wave turbulence, turbulent kinetic energy. At this point, simple physical models that describe wave dynamics often become invalid, particularly those that assume linear behaviour. The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of ocean surface wave, water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns—the types of breaking water surface waves are discussed in more detail below. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves," partly by analogy with water surface waves. In meteorology, atmospheric gravity waves are said to break when the wave produces regions where the potential temperature decreases with height, leading to energy dissipation through convective instability; likewise, ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Large Breaking Wave
Large means of great size. Large may also refer to: Mathematics * Arbitrarily large, a phrase in mathematics * Large cardinal, a property of certain transfinite numbers * Large category, a category with a proper class of objects and morphisms (or both) * Large diffeomorphism, a diffeomorphism that cannot be continuously connected to the identity diffeomorphism in mathematics and physics * Large numbers, numbers significantly larger than those ordinarily used in everyday life * Large ordinal, a type of number in set theory * Large sieve, a method of analytic number theory ** Larger sieve, a heightening of the large sieve * Law of large numbers, a result in probability theory * Sufficiently large, a phrase in mathematics Other uses * ''Large'' (film), a 2001 comedy film * Large (surname), an English surname * LARGE, an enzyme * Large, a British English name for the maxima (music), a note length in mensural notation * Large, or G's, or grand, slang for $1,000 US dollars * Large, ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Plasma Expansion Into A Vacuum
Plasma or plasm may refer to: Science * Plasma (physics), one of the four fundamental states of matter * Plasma (mineral), a green translucent silica mineral * Quark–gluon plasma, a state of matter in quantum chromodynamics Biology * Blood plasma, the yellow-colored liquid component of blood, in which blood cells are suspended * Cytoplasm, a jelly-like substance that fills cells, suspends and protects organelles * Germ plasm, a zone in the cytoplasm determining germ cells * Germplasm, describes a collection of genetic resources for an organism * Milk plasma or whey, the liquid remaining after milk has been curdled and strained * Nucleoplasm, a highly viscous liquid that surrounds the chromosomes and nucleoli * Plasma cell, white blood cells that secrete large volumes of antibodies * Protoplasm, the entire living substance inside the cell membrane or cell wall Technology * Plasma (engine), a real-time 3D game engine from Cyan Worlds * Plasma display, a flat-panel electronic ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Perturbation Analysis
In mathematics and applied mathematics, perturbation theory comprises methods for finding an approximate solution to a problem, by starting from the exact solution of a related, simpler problem. A critical feature of the technique is a middle step that breaks the problem into "solvable" and "perturbative" parts. In perturbation theory, the solution is expressed as a power series in a small parameter The first term is the known solution to the solvable problem. Successive terms in the series at higher powers of \varepsilon usually become smaller. An approximate 'perturbation solution' is obtained by truncating the series, usually by keeping only the first two terms, the solution to the known problem and the 'first order' perturbation correction. Perturbation theory is used in a wide range of fields, and reaches its most sophisticated and advanced forms in quantum field theory. Perturbation theory (quantum mechanics) describes the use of this method in quantum mechanics. The ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Iribarren Number
In fluid dynamics, the Iribarren number or Iribarren parameter – also known as the surf similarity parameter and breaker parameter – is a dimensionless parameter used to model several effects of (breaking) surface gravity waves on beaches and coastal structures. The parameter is named after the Spanish engineer Ramón Iribarren Cavanilles (1900–1967), who introduced it to describe the occurrence of wave breaking on sloping beaches. For instance, the Iribarren number is used to describe breaking wave types on beaches; or wave run-up on – and reflection by – beaches, breakwaters and dikes. Definition The Iribarren number which is often denoted as ''Ir'' or ''ξ'' – is defined as: :\xi = \frac, with L_0 = \frac\, T^2, where ''ξ'' is the Iribarren number, is the angle of the seaward slope of a structure, ''H'' is the wave height, ''L''0 is the deep-water wavelength, ''T'' is the period and ''g'' is the gravitational acceleration. Depending on the application, di ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Wave Flume
A wave tank is a laboratory setup for observing the behavior of surface waves. The typical wave tank is a box filled with liquid, usually water, leaving open or air-filled space on top. At one end of the tank, an actuator generates waves; the other end usually has a wave-absorbing surface. A similar device is the ripple tank, which is flat and shallow and used for observing patterns of surface waves from above. Wave basin A wave basin is a wave tank which has a width and length of comparable magnitude, often used for testing ships, offshore structures and three-dimensional models of harbors (and their breakwaters). Wave flume A wave flume (or wave channel) is a special sort of wave tank: the width of the flume is much less than its length. The generated waves are therefore – more or less – two-dimensional in a vertical plane (2DV), meaning that the orbital flow velocity component in the direction perpendicular to the flume side wall is much smaller than the other two ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Standing Wave
In physics, a standing wave, also known as a stationary wave, is a wave that oscillates in time but whose peak amplitude profile does not move in space. The peak amplitude of the wave oscillations at any point in space is constant with respect to time, and the oscillations at different points throughout the wave are in phase. The locations at which the absolute value of the amplitude is minimum are called nodes, and the locations where the absolute value of the amplitude is maximum are called antinodes. Standing waves were first noticed by Michael Faraday in 1831. Faraday observed standing waves on the surface of a liquid in a vibrating container. Franz Melde coined the term "standing wave" (German: ''stehende Welle'' or ''Stehwelle'') around 1860 and demonstrated the phenomenon in his classic experiment with vibrating strings. This phenomenon can occur because the medium is moving in the direction opposite to the movement of the wave, or it can arise in a stationary medium ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Surf Zone
As ocean surface waves approach shore, they get taller and break, forming the foamy, bubbly surface called ''surf''. The region of breaking waves defines the surf zone, or breaker zone. After breaking in the surf zone, the waves (now reduced in height) continue to move in, and they run up onto the sloping front of the beach, forming an uprush of water called swash. The water then runs back again as backwash. The nearshore zone where wave water comes onto the beach is the surf zone. The water in the surf zone is shallow, usually between deep; this causes the waves to be unstable. Animal life The animals that often are found living in the surf zone are crabs, clams, and snails. Surf clams and mole crabs are two species that stand out as inhabitants of the surf zone. Both of these animals are very fast burrowers. The surf clam, also known as the variable coquina, is a filter feeder that uses its gills to filter microalgae, tiny zooplankton, and small particulates out of seawater ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Waves And Shallow Water
When ocean surface wave, waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free Trochoidal wave, orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the breaking wave, wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water. See also * * * * * * * * External links Exploring the World OceanThe Oceans Water waves {{ocean-stub ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Breaking Waves
Breaking or breakin' may refer to: Arts * Breakdancing (also breaking), an athletic style of street dance * ''Breakin''', a 1984 American breakdancing-themed musical film * "Breakin, a twelfth-season episode of the American animated television series ''SpongeBob SquarePants'' * ''Breaking'' (film), a 2022 American thriller drama film * Sequence breaking, performing actions or obtaining items in video games out of the intended linear order Music * "Breakin (song), a single from The Music's second album, ''Welcome to the North'' * " Breakin'... There's No Stopping Us", a song by American music duo Ollie & Jerry * "Breakin, the sixth song on The All-American Rejects' 2008 album ''When the World Comes Down'' * ''Breaking'' (album), the eighth full-length album by American musician Brian Larsen * "Breaking" (song), a song by American alternative rock band, Anberlin Damage * Breaking (martial arts), technique that is used in competition, demonstration and testing * Fracture, the se ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Breaking Wave In Wavemaker
Breaking or breakin' may refer to: Arts * Breakdancing (also breaking), an athletic style of street dance * ''Breakin''', a 1984 American breakdancing-themed musical film * "Breakin, a twelfth-season episode of the American animated television series ''SpongeBob SquarePants'' * ''Breaking'' (film), a 2022 American thriller drama film * Sequence breaking, performing actions or obtaining items in video games out of the intended linear order Music * "Breakin (song), a single from The Music's second album, ''Welcome to the North'' * " Breakin'... There's No Stopping Us", a song by American music duo Ollie & Jerry * "Breakin, the sixth song on The All-American Rejects' 2008 album ''When the World Comes Down'' * ''Breaking'' (album), the eighth full-length album by American musician Brian Larsen * "Breaking" (song), a song by American alternative rock band, Anberlin Damage * Breaking (martial arts), technique that is used in competition, demonstration and testing * Fracture, the se ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Breaking Wave Types
Breaking or breakin' may refer to: Arts * Breakdancing (also breaking), an athletic style of street dance * ''Breakin''', a 1984 American breakdancing-themed musical film * "Breakin, a twelfth-season episode of the American animated television series ''SpongeBob SquarePants'' * ''Breaking'' (film), a 2022 American thriller drama film * Sequence breaking, performing actions or obtaining items in video games out of the intended linear order Music * "Breakin (song), a single from The Music's second album, ''Welcome to the North'' * " Breakin'... There's No Stopping Us", a song by American music duo Ollie & Jerry * "Breakin, the sixth song on The All-American Rejects' 2008 album ''When the World Comes Down'' * ''Breaking'' (album), the eighth full-length album by American musician Brian Larsen * "Breaking" (song), a song by American alternative rock band, Anberlin Damage * Breaking (martial arts), technique that is used in competition, demonstration and testing * Fracture, the se ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Ocean Surface Wave
In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, water wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result from the wind blowing over the water surface. The contact distance in the direction of the wind is known as the ''fetch''. Waves in the oceans can travel thousands of kilometers before reaching land. Wind waves on Earth range in size from small ripples, to waves over high, being limited by wind speed, duration, fetch, and water depth. When directly generated and affected by local wind, a wind wave system is called a wind sea. Wind waves will travel in a great circle route after being generated – curving slightly left in the southern hemisphere and slightly right in the northern hemisphere. After moving out of the area of fetch, wind waves are called '' swells'' and can travel thousands of kilometers. A noteworthy example of this is waves generated south of Tasmania during heavy winds that will travel across the Pacif ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
