The Peacock Skirt
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The Peacock Skirt
''The Peacock Skirt'' is an 1893 illustration by Aubrey Beardsley. His original pen and ink drawing was reproduced as a woodblock print in the first English edition of Oscar Wilde's one-act play '' Salome'' in 1894. The original drawing was bequeathed by Grenville Lindall Winthrop to the Fogg Art Museum at Harvard University in 1943. Background Wilde's one-act play '' Salome'' was originally written in French in 1891, while he was living in Paris. Performance of the play was prohibited in England, ostensibly on account of it depicting biblical characters. The play inspired Beardsley to make an illustration, ''J'ai baisé ta bouche, Iokanaan'' ("I have kissed your mouth, Jokanaan"), which was printed with eight other drawings in an article, "A New Illustrator: Aubrey Beardsley", by Joseph Pennell in the first issue of the artistic journal '' The Studio'' in April 1893. Wilde wrote to Beardsley, recognising him as a "kindred spirit" and enclosing a copy of ''Salome'', and co ...
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Frederick Leyland
Frederick Richards Leyland (30 September 1831 – 4 January 1892) was one of the largest British shipowners, running 25 steamships in the transatlantic trade. He was also a major art collector, who commissioned works from several of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood painters. Career Leyland served as an apprentice in the firm of John Bibby, Sons & Co, where he rose to become a partner. In 1867, he took on the tenancy of Speke Hall, Liverpool, and in 1869 bought a house in London at 49 Princes Gate. At the end of 1872, when the Bibby partnership dissolved, he bought out his employers and changed the company name to the Leyland Line in 1873. Under his direction the line expanded into transatlantic trade and by 1882 had 25 steamships. He retired from active business in 1888, leaving his son Frederick Dawson Leyland in charge.Linda Merrill"Leyland, Frederick Richards (1831–1892)" ''Oxford Dictionary of National Biography'', Oxford University Press, 2004. Retrieved 4 November 2015] ...
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19th-century Prints
The 19th (nineteenth) century began on 1 January 1801 ( MDCCCI), and ended on 31 December 1900 ( MCM). The 19th century was the ninth century of the 2nd millennium. The 19th century was characterized by vast social upheaval. Slavery was abolished in much of Europe and the Americas. The First Industrial Revolution, though it began in the late 18th century, expanding beyond its British homeland for the first time during this century, particularly remaking the economies and societies of the Low Countries, the Rhineland, Northern Italy, and the Northeastern United States. A few decades later, the Second Industrial Revolution led to ever more massive urbanization and much higher levels of productivity, profit, and prosperity, a pattern that continued into the 20th century. The Islamic gunpowder empires fell into decline and European imperialism brought much of South Asia, Southeast Asia, and almost all of Africa under colonial rule. It was also marked by the collapse of the la ...
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Vellum
Vellum is prepared animal skin or membrane, typically used as writing material. Parchment is another term for this material, from which vellum is sometimes distinguished, when it is made from calfskin, as opposed to that made from other animals, or otherwise being of higher quality. Vellum is prepared for writing or printing on, to produce single pages, scrolls, codices, or books. Modern scholars and custodians increasingly use only the less specific, potentially-confusing term "membrane".Stokes and Almagno 2001, 114Clemens and Graham 2007, pp. 9–10. Depending on factors such as the method of preparation it may be very hard to determine the animal species involved (let alone its age) without using a laboratory, and the term avoids the need to distinguish between vellum and parchment. Vellum is generally smooth and durable, although there are great variations depending on preparation and the quality of the skin. The manufacture involves the cleaning, bleaching, stretching ...
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Carl Hentschel
Carl Hentschel (27 March 1864 – 9 January 1930) was a British artist, photographer, printmaker, inventor and businessperson. He developed techniques for printing illustrations, particularly the Hentschel Colourtype Process using three colours, which have been described as "revolutionising" newspaper illustration. He was the original of "Harris" in Jerome K. Jerome's ''Three Men in a Boat'' (1889). Early life Hentschel was born in Łódź, now in Poland, then part of the Russian Empire, on 27 March 1864. He was the son of August Hentschel, who was an engraver, and Olga. The family emigrated to Britain when Carl was five. His obituary in ''The Times'' says that he "had some education at Eastbourne, where his father then had a paper collar factory". He was apprenticed to his father at 14. He wrote that "My first experience in producing illustrations was in assisting my father in photographing drawings on wood". His father had invented this technique, and later invented a process ...
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Copeland And Day
Fred Holland Day (23 July 1864—23 November 1933), known professionally as F. Holland Day, was an American photographer and publisher. He was prominent in literary and photography circles in the late nineteenth century and was a leading Pictorialist. He was an early and vocal advocate for accepting photography as a fine art. Life Fred Holland Day was the son of a wealthy Boston merchant, and was a man of independent means for all his life. He was a descendant of Ralph Day of Dedham. Day's life and works were controversial because he took an unconventional approach to religious subjects and often photographed male nudes. His emphasis on the classical ideal sometimes bordered on homoeroticism. According to Pam Roberts, "Day never married and his sexual orientation, whilst it is widely assumed that he was homosexual, because of his interests, his photographic subject matter, his general flamboyant demeanor, was, like much else about him, a very private matter." Day spent much ...
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The Bodley Head
The Bodley Head is an English publishing house, founded in 1887 and existing as an independent entity until the 1970s. The name was used as an imprint of Random House Children's Books from 1987 to 2008. In April 2008, it was revived as an adult non-fiction imprint within Random House's CCV division. As of 2019, The Bodley Head is an imprint of Vintage Publishing UK. History Originally Elkin Mathews and John Lane, The Bodley Head was a partnership set up in 1887 by John Lane (1854–1925) and Elkin Mathews (1851–1921), to trade in antiquarian books in London. It took its name from a bust of Sir Thomas Bodley, the eponymist of the Bodleian Library in Oxford, above the shop door. Lane and Mathews began in 1894 to publish works of ‘stylish decadence’, including the notorious literary periodical ''The Yellow Book''. Also notable amongst Bodley Head's pre-Great War books were the two volume sets: ''Foundations of the Nineteenth Century'' (1910 and later editions, sel ...
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John Lane (publisher)
John Lane (14 March 1854 – 2 February 1925) was a British publisher who co-founded The Bodley Head with Charles Elkin Mathews. Career Originally from Devon, where he was born into a farming family, Lane moved to London in his teens. While working as a clerk at the Railway Clearing House, he acquired knowledge as an autodidact. After entering the London book trade, in 1887 he became co-founder with Elkin Mathews of The Bodley Head which originally was a bookshop dealing in antiquarian books. In 1894, still operating under the name of The Bodley Head, they began to publish books. Mathews left shortly afterwards and began to publish on his own as Elkin Mathews Ltd. and "returned to a great concentration on bookselling". Lane continued to publish as The Bodley Head and under the name John Lane. He is mainly associated with publishing controversial and audacious texts, especially for a small, sophisticated audience. Examples are the periodical ''The Yellow Book'' (1894 - 1897) and ...
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Elkin Mathews
Charles Elkin Mathews (1851 – 10 November 1921) was a British publisher and bookseller who played an important role in the literary life of London in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Mathews was born in Gravesend, and learned his trade in London and Bath. In 1884 he opened his own shop in Exeter, where he published his first books in collaboration with other local booksellers. In 1887 he returned to London, and John Lane and he went into partnership and founded The Bodley Head, which first operated as an antiquarian bookshop and later as a publisher. In 1894 they published ''The Yellow Book'' and from 1893 they published the Keynotes book series. In 1892 he published a volume of verse from the Rhymers' Club titled ''The Book of the Rhymers' Club'' and in 1894 a follow-up volume ''The Second Book of the Rhymers' Club'' was published by him and John Lane. In 1894 Mathews left The Bodley Head partnership. He set up on his own as Elkin Mathews Ltd. and published work ...
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The Climax (illustration)
''The Climax'' is an 1893 illustration by Aubrey Beardsley (1872–1898), a leading artist of the Decadent (1880-1900) and Aesthetic movements. It depicts a scene from Oscar Wilde's 1891 play ''Salome'', in which the femme fatale Salome has just kissed the severed head of John the Baptist, which she grasps in her hands. Elements of eroticism, symbolism, and Orientalism are present in the piece. This illustration is one of sixteen Wilde commissioned Beardsley to create for the publication of the play. The series is considered to be Beardsley's most celebrated work, created at the age of 21. Background Beardsley was born in Brighton, Sussex, England, in August 1872. His career was short-lived, as he died from tuberculosis at the age of 25. Nonetheless, he was one of the most influential artists of the Decadent movement (1880-1900), and a leader of the Aesthetic movement. These movements centered on the idea of "art for art's sake". Beardsley created his first version of The Cli ...
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Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau (; ) is an international style of art, architecture, and applied art, especially the decorative arts. The style is known by different names in different languages: in German, in Italian, in Catalan, and also known as the Modern Style (British Art Nouveau style), Modern Style in English. It was popular between 1890 and 1910 during the Belle Époque period, and was a reaction against the academic art, eclecticism and historicism of 19th century architecture and decoration. It was often inspired by natural forms such as the sinuous curves of plants and flowers. Other characteristics of Art Nouveau were a sense of dynamism and movement, often given by asymmetry or whiplash lines, and the use of modern materials, particularly iron, glass, ceramics and later concrete, to create unusual forms and larger open spaces.Sembach, Klaus-Jürgen, ''L'Art Nouveau'' (2013), pp. 8–30 One major objective of Art Nouveau was to break down the traditional distinction between fine ...
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