Timeline Of Climbing The Matterhorn
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Timeline Of Climbing The Matterhorn
Timeline 1857 * July: First attempt (from Breuil) by Jean-Antoine Carrel, Jean-Jacques Carrel, and Amé Gorret.Pierre Staelen: La Conquête du Cervin
Retrieved 2010-01-18


1858

* August: Attempt by J. A. and J. J. Carrel. The ''Grande Tour'' is reached (3800 m).


1860

* July 2: Attempt from Zermatt (East face) by Charles, Alfred and Sandbach Parker (c. 3500 m)Edward Whymper, ''Scrambles amongst the Alps'' (table of attempts and ascents) * August: Attempt by , Vaughan Hawkins, J. J. Carrel (3960 m)


1861

* July 4: Second attempt by the P ...
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Matterhorn Ascent Dore
The (, ; it, Cervino, ; french: Cervin, ; rm, Matterhorn) is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the main watershed and border between Switzerland and Italy. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, whose summit is high, making it one of the highest summits in the Alps and Europe.Considering summits with at least 300 metres prominence, it is the 6th highest in the Alps and Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points and are split by the ''Hörnli'', ''Furggen'', ''Leone''/''Lion'', and ''Zmutt'' ridges. The mountain overlooks the Swiss town of Zermatt, in the canton of Valais, to the northeast; and the Italian town of Breuil-Cervinia in the Aosta Valley to the south. Just east of the Matterhorn is Theodul Pass, the main passage between the two valleys on its north and south sides, which has been a trade route since the Roman Era. The M ...
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Florence Crauford Grove
Florence Crauford Grove (12 March 1838 – 17 August 1902) was an English mountaineer and author, sometimes known as F. Crauford Grove. He led the first expedition to ascend the higher summit of Mount Elbrus and was at one time president of the Alpine Club. Mountaineer Grove became an experienced alpinist in the late 1850s and joined the Alpine Club of London soon after it was formed in 1857, later serving as its President from 1884 to 1886. He was one of the best British climbers of his day and is remembered for opposing guideless climbing during the 1870s. An article on the founders of the Alpine Club in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography calls him a "gentleman traveller of independent means". Because of his first name, Grove is sometimes mistakenly thought to have been a woman. His second name is Crauford. First ascents *12 August 1863: Dent d'Hérens (4,171 m) with Reginald S. Macdonald, Montagu Woodmass and William Edward Hall and guides Melchior Anderegg and ...
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Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt Jr. ( ; October 27, 1858 – January 6, 1919), often referred to as Teddy or by his initials, T. R., was an American politician, statesman, soldier, conservationist, naturalist, historian, and writer who served as the 26th president of the United States from 1901 to 1909. He previously served as the 25th vice president of the United States, vice president under President William McKinley from March to September 1901 and as the 33rd governor of New York from 1899 to 1900. Assuming the presidency after Assassination of William McKinley, McKinley's assassination, Roosevelt emerged as a leader of the History of the Republican Party (United States), Republican Party and became a driving force for United States antitrust law, anti-trust and Progressive Era, Progressive policies. A sickly child with debilitating asthma, he overcame his health problems as he grew by embracing The Strenuous Life, a strenuous lifestyle. Roosevelt integrated his exuberant personalit ...
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Benedikt Venetz
Benedikt may refer to: *Benedikt, a spelling of the name Benedict *Benedikt, Benedikt Benedikt () is the central settlement in the Municipality of Benedikt in northeastern Slovenia. Before 1998, it was part of the Municipality of Lenart. It lies in the Slovene Hills ( sl, Slovenske gorice). The area is part of the traditional regio ...
, a settlement in northeastern Slovenia {{Disambig ...
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Émile Rey
Émile Rey (August 1846 — 24 August 1895) was an alpine mountain guide from Aosta Valley in Italy. Dubbed "the Prince of Guides" in Courmayeur, he was one of the most renowned guides at the end of the 19th century, making many first ascents on some of the highest and most difficult mountains in the Mont Blanc massif of the Alps. He has been described as "one of the greatest guides of his generation." Biography Émile Rey was born and lived his life in La Saxe, a small hamlet near Courmayeur. By trade, he was a ''menuisier'' (joiner or carpenter), and is known to have contributed to the construction of a number of the alpine huts used at that time by mountaineers to reach more easily the high summits. These huts included the refuges of the Grand Paradis, Col du Géant, Aiguilles Grises and Grandes Jorasses. Rey's career as a mountain guide did not begin until the " great age of conquest" of the Alps was over. Unlike many of his contemporaries, he did not learn his craft by servi ...
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William Penhall
William Penhall (27 October 1858 – 3 August 1882) was an English mountaineer. Life and family The son of Dr John Penhall MRCS LSA (born 1833 at St Pancras, Middlesex, in 1871 a general practitioner in Hastings, Sussex), Penhall was educated at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he graduated BA in 1881.William Penhall...
at summitpost.org, accessed 17 July 2008
At the time of the , he was enumerated at Trinity, giving his place of birth as Hastings, Sussex, and his occupation as "No Occ."


Alpinism


First ascents

Penhall made the
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Alexander Burgener
Alexander Burgener Alexander Burgener (10 January 1845, Saas Fee – 8 July 1910, near the Berglihütte) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains and new routes in the western Alps during the silver age of alpinism. Together with Albert Mummery, he made the first ascent of the Zmuttgrat on the Matterhorn on 3 September 1879, and of the Grands Charmoz (1880) and the Aiguille du Grépon in the Mont Blanc Massif (5 August 1881). With another British alpinist, Clinton Thomas Dent, he made the first ascent of the Lenzspitze (August 1870) and the Grand Dru (12 September 1878), He was killed by an avalanche on 8 July 1910 near the Berglihütte in the Bernese Alps. Six other climbers died in the avalanche, including Burgener's son Adolf. Another son, Alexander, lost an eye in the incident. First ascents *Lenzspitze, 1870 * Portjengrat, 1871 * Grand Dru, 1878 *Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn, 1879 *Traverse of the Col du Lion, 1880 * Grands Charmoz, 188 ...
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Albert F
Albert may refer to: Companies * Albert (supermarket), a supermarket chain in the Czech Republic * Albert Heijn, a supermarket chain in the Netherlands * Albert Market, a street market in The Gambia * Albert Productions, a record label * Albert Computers, Inc., a computer manufacturer in the 1980s Entertainment * ''Albert'' (1985 film), a Czechoslovak film directed by František Vláčil * ''Albert'' (2015 film), a film by Karsten Kiilerich * ''Albert'' (2016 film), an American TV movie * ''Albert'' (Ed Hall album), 1988 * "Albert" (short story), by Leo Tolstoy * Albert (comics), a character in Marvel Comics * Albert (''Discworld''), a character in Terry Pratchett's ''Discworld'' series * Albert, a character in Dario Argento's 1977 film ''Suspiria'' Military * Battle of Albert (1914), a WWI battle at Albert, Somme, France * Battle of Albert (1916), a WWI battle at Albert, Somme, France * Battle of Albert (1918), a WWI battle at Albert, Somme, France People * Albert (given ...
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Ulrich Almer
Ulrich Almer was a Swiss mountain guide, born on 8 May 1849 in Grindelwald where he died on 4 September 1940. He made many premieres in the Alps, at the beginning with his father Christian Almer, one of the great guides of the golden age of mountaineering, and was one of the first Swiss guides to visit the Caucasus. Biography Ulrich Almer performs about fifteen premieres including those of the Aiguille de Blaitière and Aiguille de Triolet. In 1874, on the descent after an attempt at the south face of Mont Blanc, his roped party fell into a crevasse on the Brouillard glacier, JAG Marshal and Johann Fischer dying instantly; Ulrich Almer, unconscious but unharmed, manages to get out of the crevasse and join Courmayeur. To make matters worse, thirty-eight years later, in 1912, during a descent of the Aletschhorn, it was the turn of Andreas Fisher, Johann Fischer's son, and with the same guide, to be the victim of a fall in a crevasse. Ulrich Almer's reputation was definitely tarn ...
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Meta Brevoort
Marguerite "Meta" Claudia Brevoort (November 8, 1825 – December 19, 1876) was an American mountain climber. Brevoort was born on November 8, 1825, and spent her early years in a Paris convent school. She made a number of important ascents in the Alps in the 1860s and 1870s, but was thwarted in her two greatest alpine ambitions: to be the first woman to climb the Matterhorn, and the first person to climb the Meije in the Dauphiné. Her role-model and rival was Lucy Walker, who began her considerable mountaineering career at the age of 28, in 1859. In 1871, hearing that Brevoort planned an expedition to the Matterhorn in 1871, Walker quickly assembled a party that included the famous guide Melchior Anderegg, and made the summit a few days before Brevoort arrived in Zermatt. In contrast to Walker, who always wore dresses, Brevoort was the first female mountaineer to wear trousers. Brevoort was the aunt of W. A. B. Coolidge, whom she brought to Europe in 1865, when he was ...
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Melchior Anderegg
Melchior Anderegg (28 March 1828 – 8 December 1914), from Zaun, Meiringen, was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascensionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. His clients were mostly British, the most famous of whom was Leslie Stephen, the writer, critic and mountaineer; Anderegg also climbed extensively with members of the Walker family, including Horace Walker and Lucy Walker, and with Florence Crauford Grove. His cousin Jakob Anderegg was also a well-known guide. Alpine guide First ascents by Melchior Anderegg *Wildstrubel, 3,243 m (Bernese Alps), 11 September 1858 *Rimpfischhorn, 4,199 m (Pennine Alps), 9 September 1859 *Alphubel, 4,206 m (Pennine Alps), 9 August 1860 *Blüemlisalphorn, 3,664 m (Bernese Alps), 27 August 1860 * Monte Disgrazia, 3,678 m (Bregaglia Range), 23 August 1862 *Dent d'Hérens, 4,171 m (Pennine Alps), 12 August 1863 *Parrotspitze, 4,432 m (Pennine Alps), 16 August 1863 *Balmhorn, 3,698 ...
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Lucy Walker (climber)
Lucy Walker (1836–1916) was a British mountaineering, mountaineer and the first woman to climb the Matterhorn. Walker was born in 1836, in British North America, in what would later become Canada. Her mother, Jane McNeil McMurdo, moved from Scotland to North America with her husband and infant daughter in 1836. Mrs McMurdo left her husband to live with Francis (Frank) Walker; Lucy Walker and her brother Horace were born before their parents moved to England. The McMurdos divorced in 1841, and Frank Walker and Jane McMurdo married on 24 April 1841. The family then moved to Liverpool, England, where Frank Walker became a lead merchant. Walker began her climbing rather modestly in 1858 when she was advised by her doctor to take up walking as a cure for rheumatism. Accompanied by her father Frank Walker and her brother Horace Walker, both of whom were early members of the Alpine Club (UK), Alpine Club, and Oberland guide Melchior Anderegg, she became the first woman to regularl ...
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