Lettuce Hem
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Lettuce Hem
A lettuce hem is a frilled hem invented by Stephen Burrows. The hem was popular in the disco era for how it added movement to a garment. Description The lettuce hem is named for its resemblance to a lettuce leaf. The hem gets its characteristic waves from a zig-zag overlock stitching pattern typical of Burrows' work, which emphasized rather than concealed hems and stitching. The technique is mostly used on knit textiles such as jersey, which allow the hem to hold its shape. History Stephen Burrows invented the lettuce hem in the 1970s. The nature of the invention is disputed, with The Museum at FIT characterizing the invention as arising from a sewing error while the FIDM Museum claims he was inspired by Diana Vreeland requesting a garment in "lettuce green." Regardless, the hem became a signature of Burrows and remained popular throughout the decade. The style reemerged in the 1990s, particularly on knit "babydoll" style T-shirts. Lettuce hems became popular again in the late 20 ...
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Knit Shawl Lettuce Hem
Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile, or knitted fabric, fabric. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be done Hand knitting, by hand or Knitting machine, by machine. Knitting creates Stitch (textile arts), stitches: loops of yarn in a row, either flat or in ''the round'' (tubular). There are usually many ''active stitches'' on the knitting needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of connected loops that intermesh with the next and previous rows. As each row is formed, each newly created loop is pulled through one or more loops from the prior row and placed on the ''gaining needle so'' that the loops from the prior row can be pulled off the other needle without unraveling. Differences in yarn (varying in fibre type, Yarn weight, ''weight'', uniformity and ''twist''), needle size, and Basic knitted fabrics, stitch type allow for a variety of knitted fabrics with different properties, inclu ...
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Stephen Burrows (designer)
Stephen Burrows (born September 15, 1943) is an American fashion designer based in New York City. Burrows studied at Fashion Institute of Technology, then began work in the New York City's Garment Center, alternately managing his own businesses and working closely with luxury department store Henri Bendel. He is known for being one of the first African-American fashion designers to sell internationally and develop a mainstream, high-fashion clientele. His garments, known for their bright colors and "lettuce hem" curly-edges, became an integral part of the "Fun City" New York City disco-dancing scene of the 1970s. Early life Burrows was born in Newark, New Jersey on September 15, 1943. Born to parents Octavia Pennington and Gerald Burrows, he was raised by his mother, and his maternal grandmother, Beatrice Pennington Banks Simmons. Fascinated with his grandmother's zigzag sewing machine, he learned to sew early. He made his first garment for a friend's doll when he was eight ye ...
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Disco Era
Disco is a genre of dance music and a subculture that emerged in the 1970s from the United States' urban nightlife scene. Its sound is typified by four-on-the-floor beats, syncopated basslines, string sections, brass and horns, electric piano, synthesizers, and electric rhythm guitars. Disco started as a mixture of music from venues popular with Italian Americans, Hispanic and Latino Americans and Black Americans "'Broadly speaking, the typical New York discothèque DJ is young (between 18 and 30) and Italian,' journalist Vince Lettie declared in 1975. ..Remarkably, almost all of the important early DJs were of Italian extraction .. Italian Americans have played a significant role in America's dance music culture .. While Italian Americans mostly from Brooklyn largely created disco from scratch .." in Philadelphia and New York City during the late 1960s and early 1970s. Disco can be seen as a reaction by the 1960s counterculture to both the dominance of rock music ...
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Lettuce
Lettuce (''Lactuca sativa'') is an annual plant of the family Asteraceae. It is most often grown as a leaf vegetable, but sometimes for its stem and seeds. Lettuce is most often used for salads, although it is also seen in other kinds of food, such as soups, sandwiches and wraps; it can also be grilled. One variety, celtuce (asparagus lettuce), is grown for its stems, which are eaten either raw or cooked. In addition to its main use as a leafy green, it has also gathered religious and medicinal significance over centuries of human consumption. Europe and North America originally dominated the market for lettuce, but by the late 20th century the consumption of lettuce had spread throughout the world. , world production of lettuce and chicory was 27 million tonnes, 56percent of which came from China. Lettuce was originally farmed by the ancient Egyptians, who transformed it from a plant whose seeds were used to obtain oil into an important food crop raised for its succulent leav ...
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Overlock
An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines being called sergers in North America), though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows overlock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. An overlock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the fabric are contained within the seam. Overlock sewing machines usually run at high speeds, from 1000 to 9000 rpm, and most are used in industry for edging, hemming and seaming a variety of fabrics and products. Overlock stitches are extremely versatile, as they can be used for decoration, reinforcement, or construc ...
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Jersey (fabric)
Jersey is a knit fabric used predominantly for clothing manufacture. It was originally made of wool, but is now made of wool, cotton and synthetic fibers. History Since medieval times, Jersey, Channel Islands, where the material was first produced, had been an important exporter of knitted goods''Portrait of the Channel Islands'', Lemprière, London, 1970, and the fabric in wool from Jersey became well known. In 1916, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel upset the fashion industry by using jersey at a time when it was strictly associated with underwear. "This designer made jersey what it is today—we hope she's satisfied," said ''Vogue'' in 1999. "It's almost as much part of our lives as blue serge is." Structure Jersey is a weft knit fabric that is knitted on a single set of needles with all loops meshing in the same direction. By and large, it is knitted in plain stitch. It is also called plain. On the other hand, the double jersey is knit using two sets of needles, does not curl ...
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The Museum At FIT
The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) is a public college in New York City. It is part of the State University of New York (SUNY) and focuses on art, business, design, mass communication, and technology connected to the fashion industry. It was founded in 1944. Academics Seventeen majors are offered through the School of Art and Design, and ten through the Jay and Patty Baker School of Business and Technology leading to an A.A.S., B.F.A., or B.S. The School of Liberal Arts offers a B.S. in art history and museum professions and a B.S. in film and media. The School of Graduate Studies offers seven programs leading to a Master of Arts, Master of Fine Arts, or Master of Professional Studies. In addition to the degree programs, FIT offers a wide selection of non-credit courses through the Center for Professional Studies. One of the most popular programs is the "Sew Like a Pro" series, which teaches basic through advanced sewing skills. FIT is an accredited institutional memb ...
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FIDM Museum
The FIDM Museum & Library, Inc. was founded in 1978 to serve the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) and the community. Since January 1999, the museum's operations have been separate from the Library and School in order to offer more specialized care and attention to the specific needs of a costume collection. Museum-trained personnel have also been added to the staff to support and aide any and all visitors that visit the different exhibits offered. Contents The museum is located on the ground floor of the Los Angeles campus of the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, and houses a collection of over 12,000 costumes, accessories and textiles from the 18th century through the present day, including film and theater costume. The FIDM Museum also houses the early Hollywood Costume Collection on loan from the City of Los Angeles, Department of Parks and Recreation. It presents the annual Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition at the galleries. Exhibits are ...
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Diana Vreeland
Diana Vreeland (September 29, 1903 – August 22, 1989) was a French-American fashion columnist and editor. She worked for the fashion magazine ''Harper's Bazaar'' and as editor-in-chief at ''Vogue (magazine), Vogue'', later becoming a special consultant to the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. She was named on the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1964. Vreeland coined the term ' in 1965. Early life Born Diana Dalziel in Paris, France in 1903, she lived at 5 avenue du Bois-de-Boulogne (known as Avenue Foch post-World War I). Vreeland was the eldest daughter of an American socialite mother, Emily Key Hoffman (1876–1928), and a British stockbrokerDiana Vreeland papers 1899-2000 (bulk 1930-1989), ''The New York Public Libr ...
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T-shirt
A T-shirt (also spelled tee shirt), or tee, is a style of fabric shirt named after the T shape of its body and sleeves. Traditionally, it has short sleeves and a round neckline, known as a ''crew neck'', which lacks a collar. T-shirts are generally made of a stretchy, light, and inexpensive fabric and are easy to clean. The T-shirt evolved from undergarments used in the 19th century and, in the mid-20th century, transitioned from undergarment to general-use casual clothing. They are typically made of cotton textile in a stockinette or jersey knit, which has a distinctively pliable texture compared to shirts made of woven cloth. Some modern versions have a body made from a continuously knitted tube, produced on a circular knitting machine, such that the torso has no side seams. The manufacture of T-shirts has become highly automated and may include cutting fabric with a laser or a water jet. T-shirts are inexpensive to produce and are often part of fast fashion, leading to outs ...
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2010s In Fashion
The 2010s were defined by hipster fashion, athleisure, a revival of austerity-era period pieces and alternative fashions, swag-inspired outfits, 1980s-style neon streetwear, and unisex 1990s-style elements influenced by grunge and skater fashions. The later years of the decade witnessed the growing importance in the western world of social media influencers paid to promote fast fashion brands on Pinterest and Instagram. Popular global fashion brands of the decade included Abercrombie and Fitch, Adidas, Balenciaga, Ben Sherman, Burberry, Christian Dior, Coach, DSquared2, Dorothy Perkins, Fashion Nova, Forever 21, Gucci, H&M, Hollister, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, Louis Vuitton, Marks and Spencer, Michael Kors, Monsoon Accessorize, Nike, Nine West, Off-White, River Island, Supreme, Topman, Topshop, Uniqlo, Under Armour, and Vans. Designers and models The leading European and American designers of the early 2010s included Nicolas Ghesquière, Miuccia Prada, Frida Giannini, Marc J ...
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Upcycling
Upcycling, also known as creative reuse, is the process of transforming by-products, waste materials, useless, or unwanted products into new materials or products perceived to be of greater quality, such as artistic value or environmental value. Description Upcycling is the opposite of downcycling, which is the other part of the recycling process. Downcycling involves converting materials and products into new materials, sometimes of lesser quality. Most recycling involves converting or extracting useful materials from a product and creating a different product or material. The terms upcycling and ''downcycling'' were first used in print in an article in SalvoNEWS by Thornton Kay quoting Reiner Pilz and published in 1994. ''Upsizing'' was the title of the German edition of a book about upcycling first published in English in 1998 by Gunter Pauli and given the revised title of ''Upcycling'' in 1999. The German edition was adapted to the German language and culture by Johannes ...
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