Hoher Eichham
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Hoher Eichham
The Hoher Eichham (also ''Hocheichham''), at , is the most dominant mountain in the southeastern part of the Venediger Group in the High Tauern in Austria. Four arêtes radiate from its summit towards the north, east, south and southwest. To the southeast is the glacier of ''Nilkees'' and, to the northeast, is the ''Hexenkees''. The ''Großer Eichhamkees'' to the northwest and the ''Kleiner Eichhamkees'' to the southwest have shrunk to insignificant slabs of ice. On the North Arête is a rock tower, the ''Eichhamturm'' (). Along the continuation of the arête lies the Großer Hexenkopf (), which is roughly 600 metres as the crow flies from the Hoher Eichham. On the East Arête is the Niederer Eichham ("Lower Eichham", ). From this subpeak a ridge branches southeast linking it with the Sailkopf; the lowest notch on this arête being the ''Sailscharte'' (). The Hoher Eichham may have first been climbed during a military survey using triangulation in the 1850s. The first v ...
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Mountain Guide
A mountain guide is a specially trained and experienced professional mountaineer who is certified by local authorities or mountain guide associations. They are considered to be high-level experts in mountaineering, and are hired to instruct or lead individuals or small groups who require this advanced expertise. This professional class of guides arose in the middle of the 19th century when Alpine climbing became recognized as a sport.A short introduction to the history of mountain guiding
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Skills

A mountain guide's skills include: * *
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Mountains Of The Alps
This page tabulates only the most prominent mountains of the Alps, selected for having a topographic prominence of ''at least'' , and all of them exceeding in height. Although the list contains 537 summits, some significant alpine mountains are necessarily excluded for failing to meet the stringent prominence criterion. The list of these most prominent mountains is continued down to 2500 m elevation at List of prominent mountains of the Alps (2500–2999 m) and down to 2000 m elevation on List of prominent mountains of the Alps (2000–2499 m). All such mountains are located in either France, Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany or Slovenia, even in some lower regions. Together, these three lists include all 44 ultra-prominent peaks of the Alps, with 19 ultras over 3000m on this page. For a definitive list of all 82 the highest peaks of the Alps, as identified by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), and often referred to as the 'Alpi ...
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Alpenvereinskarte
Alpine Club maps (german: Alpenvereinskarten, often abbreviated to ''AV-Karten'' i.e. AV maps) are specially detailed maps for summer and winter mountain climbers (mountaineers, hikers and ski tourers). They are predominantly published at a scale of 1:25.000, although some individual sheets have scales of 1:50.000 and 1:100.000. The cartographic library of the German (DAV) and Austrian Alpine Clubs (OeAV) currently has about 70 different high mountain maps. Also, individual map sheets of the Alpine region or other interesting mountain areas in the world are continually being published. The publication of its maps has been a function of the Alpine Club since 1865. The reason the two clubs still issue their maps is to complement the range of more or less good official maps of the high mountains with special large-scale maps. This is especially true for the Austrian Alpine region, which is the classical field for Alpine Club branches (sections). Here, there are no official maps at a ...
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Bergverlag Rother
Bergverlag Rother is a German publisher with its headquarters in Oberhaching, Upper Bavaria. Since 1950 the company, that formerly went under the name of ''Bergverlag Rudolf Rother'', has published the Alpine Club Guides in cooperation with the German Alpine Club (DAV), the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) and the South Tyrol Alpine Club. Rother publish a "famous series of English language guides" covering most of the popular walking destinations in the Alps and Europe. History The company was founded on 16 November 1920 in Munich Munich ( ; german: München ; bar, Minga ) is the capital and most populous city of the States of Germany, German state of Bavaria. With a population of 1,558,395 inhabitants as of 31 July 2020, it is the List of cities in Germany by popu ... by Rudolf Rother sen., a bookseller and mountaineer, and is one of the oldest and most important specialist Alpine publishers.
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Alpine Club Guide
The ''Alpine Club Guides'' (german: Alpenvereinsführer, commonly shortened to ''AV Führer'' or ''AVF'') are the standard series of Alpine guides that cover all the important mountain groups in the Eastern Alps. They are produced jointly by the German (DAV), Austrian (ÖAV) and South Tyrol Alpine Clubs (AVS). They have been published since 1950 by the firm of Bergverlag Rother in Munich, Germany. The AV guides contain all the routes – hiking trails, mountain hut approaches and summit climbs as well as ice and high mountain routes and ''klettersteigs'' in each mountain range. The descriptions are factual and dry, with few illustrations - rather unlike mountain books by e.g. Walter Pause – and despite introductory sections require general Alpine knowledge and experience. Examples are the ''AVF Allgäuer Alpen'' and the ''AVF Verwallgruppe''.The AV guides are often used as the basis for other publications and complement the Alpine Club maps or other map series. Available guid ...
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Ice Axe
An ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow, ice, or frozen conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking stick, with the mountaineer holding the head in the center of their uphill hand. On steep terrain it is swung by its handle and embedded in snow or ice for security and an aid to traction. It can also be buried pick down, the rope tied around the shaft to form a secure anchor on which to bring up a second climber, or buried vertically to form a stomp belay. The adze is used to cut footholds, as well as scoop out compacted snow to bury the axe as a belay anchor. History The ice axe of today has its roots in the long-handled alpenstock that came before it. Not only is an ice axe used as a climbing aid, but also as a means of self-arrest in the event of a slip downhill. Most ice axes meet design and manufacturing standards of organizati ...
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Crampons
A crampon is a traction device that is attached to footwear to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing. Besides ice climbing, crampons are also used for secure travel on snow and ice, such as crossing glaciers, snowfields and icefields, ascending snow slopes, and scaling ice-covered rock. There are three main attachment systems for footwear: step-in, hybrid, and strap bindings. The first two require boots with welts, or specialized mountaineering boots with dedicated front and rear lugs, as a cam-action lever attaches the crampon to the heel. The last type (strap bindings) are more versatile and can adapt to virtually any boot or shoe, but often do not fit as precisely as the other two types. Oscar Eckenstein designed the first 10-point crampon in 1908, dramatically reducing the need for step cutting. This design was then made commercially available by the Italian Henry Grivel. Characteristics Materials Crampons are made of steel alloy, light weight alumi ...
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Crevasse
A crevasse is a deep crack, that forms in a glacier or ice sheet that can be a few inches across to over 40 feet. Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the shear stress generated when two semi-rigid pieces above a plastic substrate have different rates of movement. The resulting intensity of the shear stress causes a breakage along the faces. Description Crevasses often have vertical or near-vertical walls, which can then melt and create seracs, arches, and other ice formations. These walls sometimes expose layers that represent the glacier's stratigraphy. Crevasse size often depends upon the amount of liquid water present in the glacier. A crevasse may be as deep as 45 metres and as wide as 20 metres.Crevasse
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Bolt (climbing)
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin. Description While bolts are commonplace in rock and gym climbing there is no universal vocabulary to describe them. Generally, a ''bolt hanger'' or a ''fixed hanger'' is a combination of a fixed bolt and a specialized stainless steel hanger designed to accept a carabiner, whereas in certain regions a ''bolt runner'' or a ''carrot'' describes a hangerless bolt (where the climber must provide their own hanger bracket and sometimes lock nut). A ''ring bolt'' has a loop on one end so it presents as a U-shape embedded in the wall. A climbing rope is then clipped into the carabiner. Generally quickdraws or slings are employed between bolt hangers and the rope to reduce drag when ascending, belaying and rappelling. Use Bolts are used in sport climbing as a backup to catch a fall, but ...
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