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Directional Figure Eight
The directional figure eight (a.k.a. inline figure-eight loop) is a loop knot. It is a knot that can be made on the bight. The loop must only be loaded in the correct direction or the knot may fail. It is useful on a hauling line to create loops that can be used as handholds. It also provides a place to attach a Z-Drag to the line when prusiks are unavailable. See also * Alpine butterfly loop for a loop that is easier to remember and can be loaded in either direction. *List of knots This list of knots includes many alternative names for common knots and lashings. Knot names have evolved over time, and there are many conflicting or confusing naming issues. The overhand knot, for example, is also known as the thumb knot. The ... Climbing knots {{knot-stub ...
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Loop (knot)
This page explains commonly used terms related to knots. B Bend A bend is a knot used to join two lengths of rope. Bight A bight has two meanings in knotting. It can mean either any central part of a rope (between the standing end and the working end) or an arc in a rope that is at least as wide as a semicircle. "Any slack part of a rope between the two ends, particularly when curved or looped." In either case, a bight is a length of rope that does not cross itself. Knots that can be tied without use of the working end are called knots ''on the bight''. Binding knot Binding knots are knots that either constrict a single object or hold two objects snugly together. Whippings, seizings and lashings serve a similar purpose to binding knots, but contain too many wraps to be properly called a knot. In binding knots, the ends of rope are either joined together or tucked under the turns of the knot. Bitter end Another term for the working end. C Capsizin ...
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Knot
A knot is an intentional complication in cordage which may be practical or decorative, or both. Practical knots are classified by function, including hitches, bends, loop knots, and splices: a ''hitch'' fastens a rope to another object; a ''bend'' fastens two ends of a rope to each another; a ''loop knot'' is any knot creating a loop; and ''splice'' denotes any multi-strand knot, including bends and loops. A knot may also refer, in the strictest sense, to a stopper or knob at the end of a rope to keep that end from slipping through a grommet or eye. Knots have excited interest since ancient times for their practical uses, as well as their topological intricacy, studied in the area of mathematics known as knot theory. History Knots and knotting have been used and studied throughout history. For example, Chinese knotting is a decorative handicraft art that began as a form of Chinese folk art in the Tang and Song Dynasty (960–1279 AD) in China, later popularized in t ...
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Bight (knot)
In knot tying, a bight is a curved section or slack part between the two ends of a rope, string, or yarn.. "Any slack part of a rope between the two ends, particularly when curved or looped." A knot that can be tied using only the bight of a rope, without access to the ends, is described as in the bight. The term "bight" is also used in a more specific way when describing Turk's head knots, indicating how many repetitions of braiding are made in the circuit of a given knot. Bight vs. open loop Sources differ on whether an open loop or U-shaped curve in a rope qualifies as a bight. treats bights and loops as distinct, stating that a curve "no narrower than a semicircle" is a bight, while an open loop is a curve "narrower than a bight but with separated ends". However, ''The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Knots'' (2002) states: "Any section of line that is bent into a U-shape is a bight." Slipped knot In order to make a slipped knot (also slipped loop and quick release knot), ...
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Z-Drag
A Z-Drag or Z-Rig is an arrangement of lines and pulleys, effectively forming a block and tackle, that is commonly used in rescue situations. The basic arrangement results in pulling the hauling end 3 times the distance the load is moved, providing a theoretical mechanical advantage of ''three to one''. In actual practice the advantage will be reduced by friction in the pulleys or carabiners. The advantage will also be reduced if the pull on the hauling end is not parallel to the direction the load moves in. The name comes from the fact that the arrangement of lines is roughly Z shaped. Besides the mechanical advantage to pulling, it also uses only part of the total length of the rope for the block and tackle arrangement. The typical configuration (see diagram) uses two single pulleys and two Prusik knot loops or other suitable friction hitches. These Prusiks provide fixed attachment points on the rope that can be moved when slightly loosened. The first Prusik knot is attached ...
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Prusik
A Prusik ( ) is a friction hitch or knot used to attach a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, ziplining, and by arborists. The term Prusik is a name for both the loops of cord used to tie the hitch and the hitch itself, and the verb is "to prusik" (using a Prusik to ascend). More casually, the term is used for any friction hitch or device that can grab a rope (see autoblock). Due to the pronunciation, the word is often misspelled Prussik, Prussick, or Prussic. The Prusik hitch is named after its putative inventor, Austrian mountaineer Karl Prusik. It was shown in a 1931 Austrian mountaineering manual for rope ascending. It was used on several mountaineering routes of the era to ascend the final summit, where a rope could be thrown over the top and anchored so that climbers could attain the summit by prusiking up the other side of the rope. A Prusik made from cord does little or no damage to the rope it is attached t ...
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Alpine Butterfly Loop
The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot, Swiss loop and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. The butterfly loop is an excellent mid-line rigging knot; it handles multi-directional loading well and has a symmetrical shape that makes it easy to inspect. In a climbing context it is also useful for traverse lines, some anchors, shortening rope slings, and for isolating damaged sections of rope. History The earliest known presentation of the knot was in A.A. Burger's 1914 work ''Rope and Its Uses'', included in an agricultural extension bulletin from what is now Iowa State University. Burger called the knot a lineman's rider stating it was often used by "linemen and especially telephone men". The knot's security and ability to withstand tensi ...
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List Of Knots
This list of knots includes many alternative names for common knots and lashings. Knot names have evolved over time, and there are many conflicting or confusing naming issues. The overhand knot, for example, is also known as the thumb knot. The figure-eight knot is also known as the Savoy knot or the Flemish knot. A * Adjustable Bend – can be easily lengthened or shortened * Adjustable Grip Hitch – a simple hitch which may easily be shifted up and down the rope while slack *Albright Special – used to tie two different diameters of line together, for instance to tie monofilament to braid *Alpine Butterfly (also known as Butterfly Loop) – a static loop mostly used by mountain climbers and rappellers for securing a carabiner to static rope. * Alternate Ring Hitching – covering a ring in hitching can prevent damage * Anchor Bend – attaching a rope to a ring or similar termination *Angler's Loop – knot which forms a fixed loop. Useful for fine or slippery line, it is ...
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