Changabang
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Changabang
Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Division, Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbour Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity, but its steep rocky profile has made it a more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate. First ascent Changabang was first climbed on 4 June 1974 by an expedition led by Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu and Chris Bonington, via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow/ice climb, as opposed to a rock climbing, rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain. Notable ascents Other notable ascents incl ...
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Peter Boardman
Peter Boardman (25 December 1950 – 17 May 1982) was an English mountaineer and author. He is best known for a series of bold and lightweight expeditions to the Himalayas, often in partnership with Joe Tasker, and for his contribution to mountain literature. Boardman and Tasker died on the North East Ridge of Mount Everest in 1982. The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature was established in their memory. Early life and education Boardman was born in Stockport, Cheshire, England, the youngest son of Alan Howe Boardman (1920–1979) and Dorothy Boardman (1923–2007). He attended Stockport Grammar School from 1956 to 1969, going on school trips to Corsica in 1964 and 1965, and to the Swabian Alps in 1966. Boardman first began climbing with school friends at Windgather Rocks in the Peak District National Park. After joining the Mynydd Climbing Club in 1966, Boardman's climbing progressed quickly and he went on to climb in the Pennine Alps in 1968. From 1969 to 1972, Boar ...
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Andy Cave
Andy Cave (born 1966) is a British mountaineer, mountain guide, and motivational speaker. He was nominated for the Piolet d'Or for his first ascent of the North Face of Changabang in 1997, and won the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature in 2005. Biography Born in 1966, Andy Cave grew up in the small coal mining village of Royston, South Yorkshire. On leaving school with few qualifications at 16, he followed family tradition and began work as a coal miner. This period also saw him begin rock climbing in the Peak District, on his local crags. The UK miners' strike of 1984–85 gave Cave the opportunity to devote his time to climbing. In 1986, he left his job at Grimethorpe colliery, South Yorkshire, returning to education to gain a degree in English (1993) and a PhD in Linguistics (2001). His academic work included research into the dialect of Yorkshire pit villages. Cave is an UIAGM (IFMGA) International Mountain and Ski Guide. The European Alps In 1986, on one of his ...
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Balwant Sandhu
Balwant Singh Sandhu (1934-2010) was an Indian mountaineer and a colonel in the Indian Army. He made the first ascent of Changabang along with Sir Chris Bonington in 1974. In 1981, he received the Arjuna Award for excellence in mountaineering, and in 2010, after his death in an accident, he was posthumously awarded the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award, the highest adventure sports honour of India. Mountaineer M S Kohli described him as a "world-class climber". Sandhu died on 3 December 2010, after a speeding car hit him outside the Indian Mountaineering Foundation headquarters in Delhi. Career From 1980 till 1985, Sandhu was the principal of Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in Uttarkashi. In 1983, he became the president of the Himalayan Club, and in 1997-98 the vice president of Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Sandhu made first ascents of the following: North Peak of Bancha Dhura (c. 6000m, solo climb) in 1962; Shinkun (6065m) in Lahaul in 1968; Changabang (6864m) i ...
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Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a British climber, active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbing Mount Everest. Early life Born into a traditional Roman Catholic family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten children and spent his early childhood in Port Clarence, Middlesbrough. The family later moved to Billingham and Joe attended Ushaw College, Ushaw Seminary, County Durham between the ages of 13 and 20, in training to become a Catholic priest. Fascinated by ''The Climb Up to Hell'' by Jack Olsen, a book recounting harrowing tales of tragic attempts to climb the North face (Eiger), North Face of the Eiger, he started climbing in a nearby quarry in 1966. After leaving the seminary he first worked as a dustman before studying sociology at Manchester University, where he was an enthusiastic participant in the Student Union's gypsy liaison and soup-run groups. He improved his climbing skills during this time, graduating from rock climbing in ...
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Carlos Buhler
Carlos Buhler (born October 17, 1954 in Harrison, New York) is one of America's leading high altitude mountaineers. Buhler's specialty is high-standard mountaineering characterized by small teams, no oxygen, minimal gear and equipment, and relatively low amounts of funding; yielding first ascents of difficult routes in challenging conditions, such as the Himalayan winter season. Buhler is a graduate of The Putney School and is a 1978 graduate of the Huxley College of the Environment, Western Washington University. He is a recipient of the university's Distinguished Alumni Award, and currently resides in Canmore, Alberta, Canada. He has two children. Notable ascents * 1977 ''North Face'', Mount Temple (Alberta), Canadian Rockies, Canada. First winter ascent of face with Phil Hein (Canada). January, 1977. * 1977 ''Super Couloir (North Face)'', Deltaform Mountain, Canadian Rockies, Canada. First winter ascent of face with Mark Whalen (Canada). February, 1977. * 1977 ''West Face'', ...
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Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL (born 6 August 1934) is a British mountaineer. His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest. Early life and expeditions Bonington's father, who left the family when Christian was nine months old, was a founding member of L Detachment, Special Air Service. Bonington first began climbing in 1951 at age 16. Educated at University College School in Hampstead, Bonington joined the Royal Fusiliers before attending Royal Military Academy Sandhurst, and on graduation was commissioned in the Royal Tank Regiment in 1956. After serving three years in North Germany, he spent two years at the Army Outward Bound School as a mountaineering instructor. Bonington was part of the party that made the first British ascent of the South West Pillar (aka Bonatti Pillar) of the Aiguille du Dru in 1958, and the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney on the south side of Mont Blanc in 1961 wi ...
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Wojciech Kurtyka
Wojciech Kurtyka (also ''Voytek'' Kurtyka, born 25 July 1947, in Skrzynka near Kłodzko) is a Polish mountaineer and rock climber, one of the pioneers of the alpine style of climbing the biggest walls in the Greater Ranges. He lived in Wrocław up to 1974 when he moved to Kraków. He graduated as engineer in electronics (in 1973 at Wrocław University of Technology). In 1985 he climbed the "Shining Wall" Gasherbrum IV, which ''Climbing'' magazine declared to be the greatest achievement of mountaineering in the twentieth century. In 2016, he received the Piolet d'Or for lifetime achievement in mountaineering. Career His climbs in Poland consist of many difficult climbs – in crags, the hardest free climbs and free solo climbs of the time. In the Tatra Mountains he did a lot of first free ascents, first ascents in winter and established new winter routes. Kurtyka became well known abroad in early 1973 after achieving the first winter ascent of Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norwa ...
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Nanda Devi
Nanda Devi is the second-highest mountain in India, after Kangchenjunga, and the highest located entirely within the country (Kangchenjunga is on the border of India and Nepal). It is the 23rd-highest peak in the world. Nanda Devi was considered the highest mountain in the world before computations in 1808 proved Dhaulagiri to be higher. It was also the highest mountain in India until 1975, when Sikkim, an independent kingdom until 1948 and a protectorate of India thereafter, became a part of the Republic of India. It is located in Chamoli Garhwal district of Uttarakhand, between the Rishiganga valley on the west and the Goriganga valley on the east. The peak, whose name means "Bliss-Giving Goddess", is regarded as the patron goddess of the Garhwal and Kumaon Himalayas. In acknowledgment of its religious significance and for the protection of its fragile ecosystem, the Government of India declared the peak as well as the circle of high mountains surrounding it—the Nanda ...
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Mick Fowler
Michael Fowler (born 1956) is a British rock climber, ice climber, mountaineer, and climbing author. Fowler was voted the "Mountaineers' Mountaineer" in a poll in ''The Observer'', and with Paul Ramsden, won the 2002 Piolet d'Or (or Golden Ice Axe) awards for their ascent of Mount Siguniang in the Qionglai Mountains in the Sichuan Province of China. In 2012, he was awarded the King Albert award for his "outstanding contribution to mountaineering", and in 2013, he and Paul Ramsden became the first pair to win a Piolet d'Or award twice after their ascent of the Prow of Shiva in the Indian Himalayas. Paul Ramsden and Mick Fowler received the Piolet d’Or for the third time in 2016 for their ascent of Gave Ding, 6,571 meters (Nepal). Climbing career Fowler was introduced to rock climbing and mountaineering as a teenager by his widowed father George, who took him to the Alps in 1969 at the age of 13. In the 1980s, he was regarded as the driving force behind a group of London climb ...
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Doug Scott
Douglas Keith Scott (29 May 19417 December 2020) was an English mountaineer, noted for being on the team that made the first ascent of the south-west face of Mount Everest on 24 September 1975. In receiving one of mountaineering's highest honours, the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award, his personal style and climbs were described as "visionary". Over the years he was on 40 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia, during which he made some 30 first ascents. In 2020 he was diagnosed with cancer, and he died of the disease in December 2020. Early life Scott was born in Nottingham, England, and was the eldest of three sons. Scott would later discover that his mother was born at almost the exact same time as famed mountaineer Edmund Hillary, which Scott felt was an uncanny coincidence. Scott was educated in Nottingham at Cottesmore Secondary Modern and Mundella Grammar schools. He started climbing at the age of 13, his interest sparked by seeing climbers on the Black Roc ...
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Alex MacIntyre
Alex MacIntyre (1954–1982) was a British mountaineer in the 1970s. He is known for developing new climbing techniques that enabled ascents not previously accomplished. Early life MacIntyre was born in Cottingham, East Riding of Yorkshire, to Scottish Catholic parents. His first experience of climbing came after his parents moved to Letchmore Heath while Alex studied for his A-levels at Watford Grammar School. Almost as soon as he entered the school, MacIntyre joined the London Mountaineering Club and frequently went on weekend climbing trips to north Wales. In 1972, he was awarded four grade As at A-level. He then attended Leeds University to study Geography and Economics, later switching to Law. Climbing As a member of the Leeds University Mountaineering Club (LUMC), he developed his climbing skills, along with fellow students John Syrett, Brian Hall and John Powell. After climbing Yorkshire's gritstone, MacIntyre travelled to Scotland to develop his ice climbing technique a ...
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