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Bobbin Lace Ground
Bobbin lace ground is the regular small mesh filling the open spaces of continuous bobbin lace. Other names for bobbin lace ground are net or réseau (French for network). The precise course of the threads and the resultant shape of the ground are an important diagnostic feature in lace identification, as different lace styles use different grounds. Point ground Point ground is also known as ''fond simple'' or simple ground, ''fond clair'', Lille, point, net ground or Bucks Point ground. Grid angle: 52°-70°, usually 60°, never 45° It is a simple hexagonal mesh. Each stitch uses a pair of threads on each side. Some threads travel diagonally, and some move to left, then back to right, from stitch to stitch. This ground is used in Bucks Point, Lille, Chantilly, and blonde lace. Image:Bucks Point ground.jpg, Bucks Point ground Torchon ground Torchon ground and double Torchon ground are used in Torchon lace. Grid angle: 45° Each stitch uses a pair of threads on each side. ...
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Bobbin Lace
Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow. Bobbin lace is also known as pillow lace, because it was worked on a pillow, and bone lace, because early bobbins were made of bone or ivory. Bobbin lace is one of the two major categories of handmade laces, the other being needle lace, derived from earlier cutwork and reticella. Origin A will of 1493 by the Milanese Sforza family mentions lace created with twelve bobbins. There are two books that represent the early known pattern descriptions for bobbin lace, ''Le Pompe'' from Venice and ''Nüw Modelbuch'' from Zürich. Bobbin lace evolved from passementerie or braid-making in 16th-century Italy. Genoa was famous for its braids, hence it is not surprising to find bobbin lace de ...
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Bucks Point Lace
Bucks point is a bobbin lace from the South East of England. "Bucks" is short for Buckinghamshire, which was the main centre of production. The lace was also made in the nearby counties of Bedfordshire and Northamptonshire. Bucks point is very similar to the French Lille lace, and thus is often called English Lille. It is also similar to Mechlin lace and Chantilly lace. Bucks point has a gimp thread outlining the pattern. It usually has Point ground or sometimes Honeycomb ground. It is made in one piece on the lace pillow, at full width and not in strips like Honiton lace. Common designs are floral and geometric. The floral designs are like those in Mechlin and Lille laces, but Bucks lace is generally simpler than the Belgian laces, and is made of linen or silk. It can have picot picot is a loop of thread created for functional or ornamental purposes along the edge of lace or ribbon, or croché, knitted or tatted fabric. The loops vary in size according to their funct ...
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Lille Lace
Lille lace was a type of bobbin lace that was made at Lille, also known as Rijsel. It was a lightweight lace popular in the eighteenth century in both black and white. It lacked the rich designs of Valenciennes lace. Its quality declined after the French Revolution The French Revolution ( ) was a period of radical political and societal change in France that began with the Estates General of 1789 and ended with the formation of the French Consulate in coup of 18 Brumaire, November 1799. Many of its ..., and by 1800 it was worn only by 'the most ordinary women'. In the first half of the nineteenth century the sketch-line designs, made only of gimp, were enclosed by a cloudy fond simple, relieved only by a scattering of tiny dots (point d'esprit). After the French Revolution of 1848, little was made commercially. References {{Lace types CATEGORY:Bobbin lace CATEGORY:Textile arts of France Textile arts of Belgium ...
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Chantilly Lace
Chantilly lace is a handmade bobbin lace named after the city of Chantilly,"Chantilly" ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. France, in a tradition dating from the 17th century. The famous silk laces were introduced in the 18th century. ''Chantilly lace'', was also produced in the 19th century but this one was actually made not in Chantilly area but in the French Norman town Bayeux and in Geraardsbergen, now in Belgium. Chantilly lace is known for its fine ground, outlined pattern, and abundant detail. The pattern is outlined in ''cordonnet'', a flat untwisted strand. The best Chantilly laces were made of silk, and were generally black, which made them suitable for mourning wear. White Chantilly lace was also made, both in linen and silk, though most Chantilly laces were made of silk. The black silk Chantilly lace became especially popular, and there was a large market for it in Spain and the Americas. Chantilly and the Spanish laces (such as blonde lace) were the ...
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Blonde Lace
Blonde lace is a continuous bobbin lace from France that is made of silk. The term ''blonde'' refers to the natural color of the silk thread. Originally this lace was made with the natural-colored silk, and later in black. Most blonde lace was also made in black. It was made in the 18th and 19th centuries. The pattern, which is generally of flowers, is made with a soft silk thread, thicker than the thread used for the ground. This causes a big contrast between the flowers and the ground. It uses the same stitches as Chantilly lace and Lille lace, and is similarly made in strips 5 inches wide and invisibly joined. Blonde lace is not as good as Chantilly lace though, as the Bobbin lace ground, ground isn't as firm, nor is the pattern as regular. Blonde lace became very popular, and replaced Mechlin lace. It is very soft, and thus was well suited to the gathered trimmings fashionable during the nineteenth century. Blonde lace was used by royalty, and was worn in the portraits of the da ...
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Torchon Lace
Torchon lace (Dutch: stropkant) is a bobbin lace that was made all over Europe. It is continuous, with the pattern made at the same time as the ground. Torchon lace is notable for being coarse and strong, as well as its simple geometric patterns and straight lines. It does not use representational designs. Torchon lace was used by the middle classes for edging or insertion, and also to trim cotton and linen underwear, where it was ideal because of its strength and because it was inexpensive. Torchon lace was originally made from flax, but cotton is used as well, and has been for a long time. It is made in strips 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) wide. Torchon lace generally has a gimp outlining the pattern. The gimp was first used in Sweden, but now is used generally. Colored threads are occasionally used, but in general Torchon lace is white. Torchon lace is one of the oldest laces, and is common to many lace-making regions such as Belgium, France, Italy, Saxony, Sweden and Spain. Du ...
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Mechlin Lace
Mechlin lace or Point de Malines is an old bobbin lace, one of the best known Flemish laces, originally produced in Mechelen. Worn primarily during summer, it is fine, transparent, and looks best when worn over another color. Used for women's clothing, it was popular until the first decade of the 20th century."Mechlin." ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. It was made in Mechelen, Antwerp, Lier and Turnhout. It was used for ''coiffures de nuit'' (evening hair-styling), ''garnitures de corset'' (corset trims), ruffles and cravats. History Its history goes back to the Brabant laces. Originally the term 'mechlin lace' was used for any bobbin lace from Flanders. Mechlin lace grew in popularity throughout the late 17th century and the 18th century, and was mentioned several times. The 1657 inventory of the Maréchal de la Motte included 'a pair of Mechlin ruffles'. Jean-François Regnard, when visiting Flanders in 1681, wrote of the lace and lace-makers. When the ...
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Antwerp Lace
Antwerp lace is a bobbin lace distinguished by stylized flower pot motifs on a six point star ground. It originated in Antwerp, where in the 17th century an estimated 50% of the population of Antwerp was involved in lace making. Antwerp lace is also known, from its familiar repeated motif, as Pot Lace— in Dutch Pottenkant or Potten Kant. It is sometimes said that the flowers were a depiction of the Annunciation lilies; however, the flowers were not limited to lilies. It is a continuous lace, meaning that it was made in one piece on a lace pillow, using the same threads in the pattern as in the ground, or ''réseau''. Antwerp lace is very similar to Mechlin lace, which was also made in Antwerp. Antwerp lace is heavier and sturdier than Mechlin lace. It has a ''cordonnet'', or a flat thread outlining the pattern, just as Mechlin lace does. The ''cordonnet'' was very strong and rather coarse. Antwerp lace was also similar to Binche lace in its ''cordonnet''. The ''réseau'' or gro ...
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Flanders Lace
Flanders lace (point de Flandres) was made in Flanders, which was particularly well known for its bobbin lace. The supreme epoch of Flemish lace lasted from about 1550-1750. The lacemaking areas of Antwerp, Mechlin, Binche and Valenciennes are regarded as Flemish. They made mesh ground continuous lace. Brussels made part lace which is non-continuous. The ground Old Flanders lace began by making Torchon lace, then used early five-hole ground. Today, the term Flanders lace is more usually applied to a late 19th century revival of the five-hole grounded lace. Classical variations have pairs crossing at the tips of the rectangles, a modern variation crosses just threads what creates a more rectangular impression. Modern variations also use less pins at the headside and footside. Both changes make the modern interpretation slightly quicker to create but also more vulnerable, but modern lacemakers tend to frame their work rather than apply it on clothing. The similar rose grou ...
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Valenciennes Lace
Valenciennes lace is a type of bobbin lace which originated in Valenciennes, in the Nord département of France, and flourished from about 1705 to 1780."Valenciennes." ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. Later production moved to Belgium, in and around Ypres. The industry continued onto the 19th century on a diminished scale. By the 19th century Valenciennes lace could be made by machine. Valenciennes lace is made on a lace pillow in one piece, with the ''réseau'' (the net-like ground) being made at the same time as the ''toilé'' (the pattern). It differentiates itself from other types of lace because the openness of the ''réseau'', the closeness and evenness of the ''toilé'', which resembles cambric, and that it lacks any ''cordonnet'' (a loosely spun silk cord used to outline and define the pattern). Also, in real Flemish Valenciennes lace there are no twisted sides to the mesh; all are closely plaited, and as a rule the shape of the mesh is diamond but withou ...
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Yak Lace
Yak lace refers to a coarse bobbin lace in the guipure manner, typically made from wool.Definition of yak lace at the Embroiderer's Guild website
Accessed 8 June 2012
It was mainly made in Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire and in imitation of Maltese and Greek laces.
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Paris Lace
Point de Paris is a French bobbin lace of the 18th century, with slender trailing designs in a point de Paris ground. It was a simple lace, and did not compete with those of Flanders. It was revived in the late 19th century for trimming lingerie and 'fancy linen'. Point de Paris ground is used in other lace styles as well. It has many other names: * six-point star - from the shape * ''fond chant'' - it formed the ground of 19th-century Chantilly lace) * ''fond double'' * Kat stitch - there was a tradition that Catherine of Aragorn started the tradition of Bedfordshire lace * French ground - it was used in 18th century French peasant lace * wire ground - the intertwining of the threads looks like a wire mesh It is also found in Antwerp lace, Chantilly lace Chantilly lace is a handmade bobbin lace named after the city of Chantilly,"Chantilly" ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. France, in a tradition dating from the 17th century. The famous silk laces were intr ...
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