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Bar Tack
In sewing, bar tack, also written bar-tack or bartack, refers to a series of stitches used to reinforce areas of a garment that may be subject to stress or additional wear. Typical areas for bar tack stitches include pocket openings, buttonholes, belt loops, the bottom of a fly opening, tucks, pleats and the corners of collars. Bar tacks may be sewn by hand, using whip stitches, or by machine, using zigzag stitches. The process for sewing a bar tack is essentially to sew several long, narrowly-spaced stitches along the line of the bar that will be formed, followed by short stitches made perpendicular to the long stitches, through the fabric and over the bar. The bar commonly varies between in width and in length. In some garments, such as jeans, the bar tack will be sewn in a contrasting color. Similar stitches to the bar tack include the arrowhead tack and crow's foot tack. See also * Whip stitch * Tack (sewing) * List of sewing stitches This a list of stitches used in ...
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Pleat
A pleat (plait in older English) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference. Pleats are categorized as ''pressed'', that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or ''unpressed'', falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats sewn into place are called tucks. Types Accordion Accordion pleats or knife pleats are a form of tight pleating which allows the garment to expand its shape when moving. Accordion pleating is also used for some dress sleeves, such as pleating the end of the elbow, with the fullness of the pleat gathered closely at the cuff. This form of pleating inspired the "skirt dancing" of Loie Fuller. Accordion pleats may also be used in hand fans. Box Box pleats are knife pleats back-to-back, and have a tendency to spring out from the waistline.Picken, Mary Brooks, ''The Fashion Dictionary'', p. 257 They ha ...
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Tack (sewing)
In sewing, to tack or baste is to sew quick, temporary stitches that will later be removed. Tacking is used for a variety of reasons, such as holding a seam in place until it is sewn properly, or transferring pattern markings onto the garment. Tacking is typically sewn using a specialised tacking thread, which may snap easily in order for it to be easily removed from the garment when necessary. Uses Tacking is used in a variety of ways; one of the most common uses is to easily hold a seam or trim in place until it can be permanently sewn, usually with a long running stitch made by hand or machine. This is called a 'tacking stitch' or 'basting stitch'. Tacking stitches may be used when a garment is being fitted to a model during production, as the stitches can be easily removed and replaced with pins if the seam requires alteration. X-shaped tacking stitches are also very common on the vents (slits) of the back of a man's suit jacket, or at the bottom of kick pleats on a woman's ...
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Whip Stitch
A whip stitch is a simple sewing stitch that is used in crocheting, knitting and sewing, and in which the needle is passed in and out of the fabric in a series of stitches that circle an edge of the fabric. In hand sewing, this stitch can be used to create a seam but can also be used for joining two felt pieces together. Whip stitching creates a nice edge and prevents the fabric from unraveling. It is similar to the blanket stitch as it is a form of hand sewing stitch that helps in finishing edges. Other uses The whip stitch is often used in applique making, closing the sides of pillows and cushions, hemming jeans, attaching crocheted amigurumi toys together as it produces a neat seam, and in leather lacing as a decorative stitch in leather garments and accessories. See also * Blanket stitch * Overcast stitch * Sewing stitches References {{Embroidery Sewing stitches Embroidery stitches Sewing stitches Sewing Embroidery stitches Embroidery is the craft of decorati ...
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Jeans
Jeans are a type of pants or trousers made from denim or dungaree cloth. Often the term "jeans" refers to a particular style of trousers, called "blue jeans", with copper-riveted pockets which were invented by Jacob W. Davis in 1871 and patented by Jacob W. Davis and Levi Strauss on May 20, 1873. Prior to the patent, the term "blue jeans" had been long in use for various garments (including trousers, overalls, and coats), constructed from blue-colored denim. "Jean" also references a (historic) type of sturdy cloth commonly made with a cotton warp and wool weft (also known as "Virginia cloth"). Jean cloth can be entirely cotton as well, similar to denim. Originally designed for miners, modern jeans were popularized as casual wear by Marlon Brando and James Dean in their 1950s films, particularly ''The Wild One'' and ''Rebel Without a Cause'', leading to the fabric becoming a symbol of rebellion among teenagers, especially members of the greaser subculture. From the 1960s onwar ...
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Zigzag Stitch
A zigzag stitch is variant geometry of the lockstitch. It is a back-and-forth stitch used where a straight stitch will not suffice, such as in reinforcing buttonholes, in stitching stretchable fabrics, and in temporarily joining two work pieces edge-to-edge. When creating a zigzag stitch, the side to side motion of the sewing machine's needle is controlled by a cam. As the cam rotates, a fingerlike follower, connected to the needle bar, rides along the cam and tracks its indentations. As the follower moves in and out, the needle bar is moved from side to side. Sewing machines made before the mid-1950s mostly lack this hardware and so cannot natively produce a zigzag stitch. However there are often shank-driven attachments available which enable them to achieve a similar effect by moving the fabric from side to side instead of the needle bar. Helen Blanchard is said to have invented and patented the first zigzag stitch sewing machine in 1873. The first dedicated zigzag machine for ...
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Whip Stitch
A whip stitch is a simple sewing stitch that is used in crocheting, knitting and sewing, and in which the needle is passed in and out of the fabric in a series of stitches that circle an edge of the fabric. In hand sewing, this stitch can be used to create a seam but can also be used for joining two felt pieces together. Whip stitching creates a nice edge and prevents the fabric from unraveling. It is similar to the blanket stitch as it is a form of hand sewing stitch that helps in finishing edges. Other uses The whip stitch is often used in applique making, closing the sides of pillows and cushions, hemming jeans, attaching crocheted amigurumi toys together as it produces a neat seam, and in leather lacing as a decorative stitch in leather garments and accessories. See also * Blanket stitch * Overcast stitch * Sewing stitches References {{Embroidery Sewing stitches Embroidery stitches Sewing stitches Sewing Embroidery stitches Embroidery is the craft of decorati ...
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Collar (clothing)
In clothing, a collar is the part of a shirt, dress, coat or blouse that fastens around or frames the neck. Among clothing construction professionals, a collar is differentiated from other necklines such as revers and lapels, by being made from a separate piece of fabric, rather than a folded or cut part of the same piece of fabric used for the main body of the garment. A collar may be permanently attached to the main body of the garment (e.g. by stitching) or detachable. Word usage The Oxford English Dictionary traces ''collar'' in its modern meaning to c. 1300, when collars served as neck-protecting armour. History Today's shirt collars descend from the rectangular band of linen around the neck of 16th century shirts. Separate ruffs exist alongside attached ruffled collars from the mid-16th century, usually to allow starching and other fine finishing, or to make collar-laundering easier.Compare: During the medieval period and sporadically thereafter, people wore ...
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Tuck (sewing)
In sewing, a tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn or fastened in place. Small tucks, especially multiple parallel tucks, may be used to decorate clothing or household linens. When the tucks are very narrow, they are called pintucks or ''Pin-tucking''. Tucks are also used to shorten a finished garment, especially a child's garment, so that it may be lengthened ("let down") as the child grows by removing the stitching holding the tuck in place. In Louisa May Alcott's ''Little Women'', Amy says: Tucks, made easy with the invention of the sewing machine, were very popular as ornamentation in the latter half of the 19th century, especially in fine linen or cotton fabric for chemisettes, engageantes, blouses, lingerie, summer dresses, and children's garments. Tucks were also used to decorate heavier fabrics: a travelling suit of "rough cheviot" (sturdy wool) is described as having its skirt "tucked, each tuck two inches wide and two inches apart, eight tucks in all, box- ...
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Sewing
Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a sewing needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic era. Before the invention of spinning yarn or weaving fabric, archaeologists believe Stone Age people across Europe and Asia sewed fur and leather clothing using bone, antler or ivory sewing-needles and "thread" made of various animal body parts including sinew, catgut, and veins. For thousands of years, all sewing was done by hand. The invention of the sewing machine in the 19th century and the rise of computerization in the 20th century led to mass production and export of sewn objects, but hand sewing is still practiced around the world. Fine hand sewing is a characteristic of high-quality tailoring, haute couture fashion, and custom dressmaking, and is pursued by both textile artists and hobbyists as a means of creative expression. The first known use of the word "sewing" was in the 14th ...
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Fly (clothing)
A Fly is an opening on the crotch area of trousers, closed by a zip or buttons. On men's garments the fly always opens to the right. On women's garments it may open either to the left or to the right. Trousers have varied historically in whether or not they have flies. Originally, trousers did not have flies or other openings, being pulled down for sanitary functions. The use of a codpiece A codpiece () is a triangular piece that attached to the front of men's hose, covering the fly. It may be held in place by ties or buttons. It was an important fashion item of European clothing during the 15th–16th centuries. In the modern era ..., a separate covering attached to the trousers, became popular in 16th-century Europe, eventually evolving into an attached fall-front (or broad fall). The fly-front (split fall) emerged later.Croonborg, Frederick: ''The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring''. Croonborg Sartorial Co. New York and Chicago, 1907. p. 123 References {{DEFAULTSORT:Fly ...
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Belt (clothing)
A belt is a flexible band or strap, typically made of leather, plastic, or heavy cloth, worn around the natural waist or near it (as far down as the hips). The ends of a belt are free; and a buckle forms the belt into a loop by securing one end to another part of the belt, at or near the other end. Often, the resulting loop is smaller than the hips. Belts come in many lengths because of the variety in waist sizes, and most belts can be adjusted at the buckle to suit the wearer's waist. Description Belts are used variously to secure or hold up clothing, such as trousers, shorts, and skirts; to carry objects, such as tools and weapons; and to define or accentuate the waist. Some garments have a series of belt loops at the waist, through which a belt can be threaded. Additionally, many belts have a "keeper loop" affixed to one end, near the buckle. The keeper loop stops the free end of the belt from flapping around once the belt is buckled. Some belts also have an end tip (ma ...
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